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Because of the VERY slow sales year I have been making a lot of toys that our club gives to various charitable organizations. This is the latest. 7" long made of 3/4" pine board. It floats upright and cannot be tipped over.

Done the same as all the rest just different names an colors

If you saw my other post, you know I wanted to give my congratulations for the person behind the Whitney Woodworking Farm Scene as that was a fantastic pattern and definitely very challenging to cut. As promised, here is the finished cookbook stand where that pattern is used. I used Curly Cherry with Walnut for the screw hole plugs and handmade knobs with General Finishes oil-based Gloss Arm-R-Seal. I designed the tilt feature based on some others I found but slightly modified since I could only connect them via the sides because of the pattern. This way she can either leave it on counter as a display when she's not cooking or tilt it back to work from. Bookstand Front by Scott Baker, on Flickr Bookstand Rear by Scott Baker, on Flickr Bookstand Side by Scott Baker, on Flickr And with her new cookbook I bought Bookstand With Book by Scott Baker, on Flickr Bookstand Side With Book by Scott Baker, on Flickr Can't wait to see her face on Christmas Day.

I haven't put any finish on and haven't decided whether I'll be using a black backer or dark brown. There's a couple of worm holes in this piece of oak and I was going to fill them, but I'm sure Stan has written about some "worm holes" so I thought I'd leave them.

Spoke with our mailman the other day and he said they are assigning him to a new route next year. He has been with us a few years and wanted to give him something in appreciation for going the extra mile with our deliveries. Purchased this pattern a few years ago from Sue Mey and just add his name. 1/8" on 1/4" backer and just shellac finish.

With covid I finished most of my home projects so I had a little time on my hands and done scrap 1 x 3 pine. So the inner nerd took over and this is what I came up with. I made a block from the pine measuring 8 x 13 and 2¼ thick. Printed off the letters and went to my scroll saw. I might have been able to cut it on my band saw, but I have a ¾" blade on it and didn't want to change, besides, the inside of the "O" would have been a challenge. Some craft paint and glue....done! In the background you can see the clamp, I had just glued it when I took the picture. The combo square is for size reference. Chris

Needed to do a quick project. Saw some moulding lying in the corner of he shop and decided to make another box. Easy cutting the sides on the miter saw, dadoed a groove for the bottom. Finish is black lacquer and my wife painted some small elements on the top and sides.

Made this plaque for a friends dad who retired from the navy

Finally finished. My daughter preferred the 'brown' backer for this piece. Grateful thanks to @Helder Botas for his incredible generosity and skill, it's much appreciated Sir and I hope I did it justice. 3mm B/B, piece of laminate flooring for the backer, Niqua #3 reverse blade, Oak frame made myself.

Done on Black Walnut piece 20" x 13"

This 30" tall giraffe was completed using a resin inlay material called Inlace Liquid Inlay. The fretwork holes of the giraffe were cut on the scrollsaw. A thin plywood backer board was glued to the back of the piece with construction adhesive. The cut holes were filled with Inlace and allowed to dry. The project was sanded and then a polyurethane finish was applied. The finish was also applied to the natural edge of this cherry board. There are multiple colors of this material available and I recommend the darker brown choices. This material is available at Wood Acrylic Supply on Etsy. OPTION 2 Another method to do this project is to just reduce the wood in each spot with a rotary power tool instead of cutting the frets out with a scroll saw. Only about 1/8" deep is necessary. Then fill the spots with the Inlace and proceed in the same fashion with sanding smooth and applying finish.

Here is a photo of my rendition of Steve's gnomes: I stained mine using several Saman water-based stain then sprayed them wit a couple of coats of rattle-can clear satin stuff. 's

This beautiful mountain inhabitant was cut with a scroll saw using Pegas Spiral Blades #5 and then power carved from a piece of Sapele that was 19" x 15" x1". It was then stained with MinWax Color Wash in Weathered Wood and some light touches of burnt umber oils and blue/green oils for the eyes.. A final finish of Clear Matte Polycrylic was then applied.

Hi all just cut the smallest letters today 10mm high would not want to try any smaller. This is the start of a project a friend has asked me to have a go at. Its going to be a clock when finished

My wife loves these little gnomes, so when Steve Good's newsletter came out with a pair, well....meet "Jack" (redhead) and "Frost" (graybeard). 1/4 bbply, Pegas #1mg blade, total of about 2 hours' cutting time, if that. Stains used are (all Minwax) red, blue, natural, weathered gray, honey, and gunstock (orange beard/'stache). If I make another set at any time, I'll probably just attach an eye-bolt to the top of the hat so they hang better, but overall, everybody's happy.

If it needs repair be careful about sending it out to be fixed mine has been in the shop for 6 months Delta is slow about sending parts, they tink you should buy a new one. I had a delwalt 7988 and it was out for repairs not warentee but they had it for 30 days so I called dewalt and they sent em out a repairman and I got in 4 days free of charge that's makes the dewalt a much beter saw

That is a great likeness. Excelsior!

First time cutting one of these: Pattern from here, 1/8 BB, boiled linseed, FD ur#1

These are all my family's Christmas gift this year The eagle Is for my dad a true red white blue collar American The rose is for my mom for how beautiful and sweet she is The bass jumping out of the water is for my brother and has a cool story behind it the first time I took him bass fishing he caught a 7 1/2 lb bass and fell in love with fishing he always said he wish he could have had a picture of it as it jumped from behind the log well I gave it to him took me about 6 years to come up with this idea though. Always fun trying to capture life's moments in the form of wood. All three are made from stain grade shelving 3/4" thick and backed with pant lauan plywood. And all three have ben torched sanded and staind minwax guns took for the eagle, minwax honey for the rose and unicorn spit stan gel for the slats for backing and unicorn spit stain gels and minwax golden oak on the bass and all sealed with clear glaze hope yall enjoy

There are actually a couple different shellac products available at your local paint stores and home centers. Pre-mixed shellac is only available from Zinsser (owned by Rustoleum). They offer a product called Bulls Eye Shellac. This is available in either clear or amber. This product contains a natural wax and is not recommended for use if you intend to cover it with an oil based polyurethane or waterborne top coat, as there can be adhesion problems. Bulls Eye Seal Coat is available in clear only and is a dewaxed shellac that is a universal sealer. It can be used in much the same way as the regular shellac, but it really shines as a binder coat between incompatible finishes or over top of surfaces that may be contaminated in some way. It is also recommended for use with poly and waterborne top coats. Bulls Eye shellac is a 3 lb cut, as it comes in the can. Seal Coat is a 2 lb cut. What this means is that the shellac has a higher concentration of solids than does the Seal Coat. I spray both versions un-thinned. I used to thin them, but both versions spray just fine straight out of the can. For dipping, I would shoot for a 1 1/2 lb cut, which if you are using regular shellac, would be a 50/50 mixture with denatured alcohol. If you are using Seal Coat, you could use a little less DNA, but in reality, I doubt you would notice much difference if you thinned it 50/50. If using flakes, then mix them to achieve a 1 1/2 lb cut, which is 1 1/2 lbs of flakes to 1 gallon of DNA (smaller volumes - reduce accordingly, while keeping that ratio.)

I drill appropriate sized hole in a piece of scrap 1/4" or 1/8" BBply.. drill the hole just the right size so the screws will actually thread into the wood.. thread both or all four as I do into the wood put a couple strips of wood on each end of the plywood high enough to keep the screws off the table and run my orbital sander with 100 - 150 grit paper and sand all the screws at once.. you only want to dress a minimal amount so screw the screws in the wood just about flat with the wood.. just enough to touch the sander.. Works great for me.. You could use the belt sander too in this manor.. but screwing the screws into the wood helps hold the tiny things and also helps in holding them flat so you do not round over the edges etc..

A very nicely done project from all aspects. I ma not a fan of robins though. They used to destroy my strawberry patch until I put (1/4" squares) cage wire frames all around and over the strawberries.

Great job! One of my favorite birds to watch in my yard. Yours looks like it contemplating the best spot in the yard for worms. Very lifelike.

Thanks Don. I have about 60% of the stains that they make and, frequently, mix them to get other colours. The company is located in Quebec (Noranda, I think) and I have ordered directly from them. So, you don't have to wait.

Frank. - Love the stains. I only have a couple of colours of Saman stain. On the shopping list for when ever this isolation is over. Look great.

You folks have convinced me to add them to my cut list for next year. My saw is resting until spring. (And then, the Dewalt may transform into a Pegas)

thats what im thinking it is too i just ordered some so ill let u guys know thanks

Hi Charlie: They mention him often on The Big Bang Theory I missed out on this one, hope to be around for your next little charade...LOL Well Done Fab4

Yes, Pegas chucks for sure. When I mount a blade on my EX, I position the blade into the top clamp so that the top of the blade is just right at the top of the clamp. Then I install the blade into the bottom clamp. Once that's done, I loosen the top back up and pull down on the upper part of the mechanism to take any slack out of it and re-tighten the upper clamp. I hated the old EX upper clamp.

Never heard of him.... to make this fun, you have to start doing some an abnormal person like me would know!! Nice cutting.

It's beautiful Charlie. What did you put on the wood?

I definitely don’t qualify for this lol As I just started scrolling a couple months ago, but my buddy that got me started told me, you are your own worst critic! If it’s not perfect just keep trying.

Fantastic

FANTASTIC!

We had a lot of wood trim, mounding, flooring, etc. left over when we had our house built 15 years ago. We had it put up in the attic and it has been repurposed for many things my husband has built over the years. It’s always interesting to see what he does with some of it.

I am also very sensitive to smells. I also have no patience, Some times I dip my ornaments in a mixture of Zinser sanding sealer and alcohol. This does raise the grain a bit but a quick kiss with my mac mop takes care of that. Or I will use the Zinser Shellac spray can, very fast drying and no residual smell. The dip is obviously better for getting into all of the nooks and crannies.

Hi All. I got an email from someone the other day wondering if SSV has any t-shirts and the like. Back in the olden' days of SSV, we used to have things like t-shirts, mugs and other gifts available. It's a little late in the year, but I put a few things together and brought back the swag shop. Don't know why I didn't think of it earlier. Might be a bit late for Christmas and a bit of a lost opportunity, but I did it all the same. If you just can't get enough of SSV, you can show your pride with some merch! Everything is print-on-demand and fulfilled by TeeSpring. The link is under the Support SSV tab and I'll link it below. Take a peek and let me know what you think. Enjoy! https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/swag/

A big WOW! from me. Roly

Really a nice piece!

There more than likely is no charge left on that cap because it bled through the motor windings but to play it safe just cut one wire at a time. If you can trace back to source than just jump out with a insulated wire.

Wow look at that. I thought I remembered some of this. I am a member there. My memory is not as bad as I thought. What stood out to me was Grainger. Because I have used them in the past and they can get just about anything.

I have also used rubbing alcohol on the set screw and wiped it on an old piece of cloth, that removed any unwanted oil left behind by a blade. Marg

A little trick I do when sharpening tools on a grinder is to use a sharpie and color the end. Then lightly hit the edges and look to see if my grinding is at the right angle. I flatten screws of all sizes on a belt sander.

I would do it just as RJ explains in his post, but I would cut just outside of the circle line. I then go down to the line on the vertical sander. Great finish all the time.

I do this too. If the backer is to be painted, I paint first then wait till the paint is cured, or if I’m using a hardwood or a hardwood plywood, I’ll go ahead and glue the overlay to the backer, then cut the outer circle together, then sand to finish.

A few related suggestions 1 If your clothes pins are made from wood, add a coat or two of shellac or poly to them and it will keep the wood glue from sticking to them. 2. Plastic clothes pins also will not allow wood glue to stick to them. 3. Plastic clothes pins can also be found in areas whee they sell the snack bag clips for keeping your potato chips, etc. fresh and there are wider ones available too. Charley

Hey folks, I just had something occur to me and I thought it warranted this new topic. We all have our "nicknames" and either pictures or some other artwork on our posts. But, most folks who post don't sign their actual names. I always try to sign my name to my posts. It might be nice to know each other's real name so we can refer to them as such. I have picked up on a few names but most are just a nickname. After seeing all the posts and topics by New2woodwork, I have no idea what his name is. Just as example here. Not picking on him at all. So, what say all of you? Names or nicknames? Ray

For ornaments I use 1/8" Baltic Birch and I will stack 5 or 6 . The more detailed the less I stack. For freestanding puzzles I use 3/4" hardwood. For picture puzzled I use 1/4" Baltic Birch. For portraits I use either 1/8" or 1 /4" Baltic Birch. I stack 2 -4. 1/8" fits better in store bought frames. For others: If you buy patterns from most designers they normally recommend a thickness. I normally try to follow their recommendations. I have done test cuttings for Sue Mey. I can tell you a number of thickness woods are tried before one is recommended.

I have unglued one too many items - thanks to the wood working class I took. Here is what I've discovered: Heat is good - Either with a heat gun or a hair dryer if you don't have a heat gun Heat the area where the glue is and if you get it pliable enough you will be able to just remove the item and then sand down the glued area. If you are unable to get the glue pliable enough from the heat to just separate the pieces, take an exacto or other blade type tool and slice the glued area. You should "feel" the blade slide in and the glue "give" a little - work the blade into the glue by slicing along the glued seam. You may need to reheat the area One thing about heat guns is to be careful not to burn the wood or yourself as the ends of the gun and where the heat emanates from get very hot so wear gloves if you have them - not nitrite gloves but real gloves like work gloves or leather etc. Hope that helps

Here is my system. I even got a chance to try my HF trim router.