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Finally finished. My daughter preferred the 'brown' backer for this piece. Grateful thanks to @Helder Botas for his incredible generosity and skill, it's much appreciated Sir and I hope I did it justice. 3mm B/B, piece of laminate flooring for the backer, Niqua #3 reverse blade, Oak frame made myself.

Made this plaque for a friends dad who retired from the navy

Something different that I made most recently at the request of my lead pastor, who wanted a modern-art piece depicting the Annunciation of the birth of our Lord. Too large to cut on a scroll saw, so I used a jigsaw to cut the entire picture. Then I backlit it with an LED light strip. It measures 4' x 3'. It will be used as a display at our church's Christmas Eve Walk-through Event.

If you saw my other post, you know I wanted to give my congratulations for the person behind the Whitney Woodworking Farm Scene as that was a fantastic pattern and definitely very challenging to cut. As promised, here is the finished cookbook stand where that pattern is used. I used Curly Cherry with Walnut for the screw hole plugs and handmade knobs with General Finishes oil-based Gloss Arm-R-Seal. I designed the tilt feature based on some others I found but slightly modified since I could only connect them via the sides because of the pattern. This way she can either leave it on counter as a display when she's not cooking or tilt it back to work from. Bookstand Front by Scott Baker, on Flickr Bookstand Rear by Scott Baker, on Flickr Bookstand Side by Scott Baker, on Flickr And with her new cookbook I bought Bookstand With Book by Scott Baker, on Flickr Bookstand Side With Book by Scott Baker, on Flickr Can't wait to see her face on Christmas Day.

Because of the VERY slow sales year I have been making a lot of toys that our club gives to various charitable organizations. This is the latest. 7" long made of 3/4" pine board. It floats upright and cannot be tipped over.

I see them from $600 - 1000 in my area.. BUT.. really hard to put a value on a saw that you have no idea what it might come with.. Many times people will put a value without knowing if it comes with the stand, extra clamps, and the quick clamps.. many accessories and options can really add up the value or take away value.. I don't know Hegners too well, But I would look over the obvious things that might give normal wear or dry rot with age.. Inspect the bellows for dry rot , cracks and function.. while to some the bellows is no big deal.. until it stops working.. Hegner bellows aren't cheap, but yes there are work arounds and other cheaper ways to repair.. my point is look it over for bargaining. You don't want to pay top dollar and then have to replace parts or fuss with workarounds to make the saw usable right as soon as you get it home.. As I understand it Hegners have different size blade holders? make sure the one "you would use" comes with it... extras would be nice too but you want to bring home a saw that you can get to work when you get it home.. If no extra holders or not the one you'd need.. Bargain on that fact.. I would test run the saw, run the variable speed dial from slow to fast with and without a load on it.. Basically go to look at it with a level head.. many people get all hipped about a Hegner at a cheaper price because they are expensive saws.. Just remember parts for them are expensive too.. maybe go look on the website at the parts list.. how much is a replacement bellows, blader holders etc etc.. Nothing wrong with buying a saw without the stand or with a dry rotted bellows.. so long as you don't pay too much.. I've bought non-working saws and brought them to life with very few dollars and was able to sell it and make someone a good saw at a good price.

Parts are available from https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/pages/hegner-home See if it has the quick tension release up front on the upper arm, that is an expensive upgrade. How many blade clamps, should has two, if you are lucky it will have the quick release clamp for the top clamp. Go to Advanced Machinery and check out a new one and available accessories. Read about it, if you aren't familiar with Hegners...

Spoke with our mailman the other day and he said they are assigning him to a new route next year. He has been with us a few years and wanted to give him something in appreciation for going the extra mile with our deliveries. Purchased this pattern a few years ago from Sue Mey and just add his name. 1/8" on 1/4" backer and just shellac finish.

great job

will be a cherished memento

Great plaque I'm positive he will cherish. very well done. I especially love the rope piping. Hope his retirement includes "Fair Winds and a Following Sea". Edit: Hope you dont mind, but I rotated your pic and croped it so all can see how nice it is.

From that year, and that model, I think the real question is price. Getting any part whatsoever is trivial, even for Hegners much much older. I would easily pay $600 if it had the quick tensioner up top. I've seen them come up for sale in that 600 range or less from time to time. If it is in new condition, I might even pay more. Ask if the saw has been dropped. You could turn on the saw and in a few seconds know if it is ok. Should be quiet-ish, and smooth-ish. Arms should run true. As RockyTime mentioned, unless it has been abused, it is probably ok. I know that 600 pricepoint shocks some of you that bought this saw new, just stating what I've seen come up for sale. I bought the Hawk BM26 in new condition for 600 also, and sold it for that same price.

I have been very unhappy with the one original DeWalt light that came with my DeWalt 788 Scroll saw. I've tried several alternatives, including halogen drafting board lights. Having two lights, one on each side of the saw made a big difference in reducing the shadows around the blade, and whiter brighter lights also helped. The halogen lights worked, but they were very hot. I frequently burned my forehead on them and after cutting with them all day the backs of my hands would get sunburned, but I continued to use these lights, while looking for something better. I recently found and purchased two of these LED lights to mount on my Dewalt 788 scroll saw in place of the single original DeWalt light Shop Style Selections 15-in Adjustable Brushed Steel LED Clip-On Desk Lamp with Metal Shade at Lowes.com I designed and built a bracket to mount two of these lights to the upper arm of my DeWalt 788 saw, after my initial plan of clipping the lights to the rear of the saw table failed, because I kept bumping into the clamps with my work. The new bracket that I made wraps around the upper arm of the saw just ahead of the DeWalt label, and extends out from both sides of the saw arm. Each side extension of this bracket has a hole where I attached one of the lights, after removing it from it’s original clamp. Only a slight trimming of the bottom edge of the plastic piece that holds the saw speed control and power switch is necessary. The rest of the saw does not have to be modified to add these lights and bracket. Adding the bracket and attaching the lights to it required dis-assembly of the lamp head by removing the two screws in the plastic lens of the lamp. The lens and PC board with the LEDs attached to it can then be removed from the lamp head. Un-solder the wires from the back side of the PC board. Then remove the wires from the flex tube, and then remove the original clamp from the base of the goose neck. After installing the base of the goose neck on my new bracket I then re-threaded the wires up through the the goose neck tube into the lamp head, re-soldered the wires in their correct positions, and then re-assembled the lamp head. There is a small flat on the back edge of both the PC board and the lens that must point toward the goose neck as the lamp head is assembled. The same was done with the second lamp. The lights run on low voltage DC, so it's necessary to maintain the correct polarity of the wires when they are re-attached. There are tiny + and - signs on the PC board and one of the wires has a line of - signs on it, so it attaches to the poing with the - next to it. The other wire by default is the + wire, so it attaches to the point with the + sign next to it. I twisted the wires from both lamps loosely together and routed them back along the left side of the upper saw arm fixing them in place with tie-wraps. The switches for the two lights ended up along side of the rear saw frame casting, so I attached them to this casting, one above the other, with double sided carpet tape. Between the switches and the power supply/plugs there are several feet of additional wire that would easily reach a wall outlet if one was directly behind the scroll saw, but I have mounted a power strip to the left side of the rear leg of the saw stand, so I loosely twisted the wires together and then plugged the lights in to this power strip. The saw and foot switch for the saw are also plugged into this power strip. I’ve now been using these LED lights for almost 6 months and find them ideal for my purpose. They are very bright and emit a very white, non-flickering light that is perfect for scroll sawing. Being able to easily position them on each side and slightly forward of the blade and shining down at about a 45 deg angle at the blade eliminates all of the blade shadows and makes it very easy to follow the lines of my patterns. Running all day long the lamp housings never heat up to much over 80 or so degrees, so I never burn my head on them either. These lights would make great auxiliary lighting for most any shop tool and the price is right to have many of them, either mounted on their original clamps or on specially made brackets. I now own 7 of them, not only on my two scroll saws, but also on my band saw and drill presses. Be careful not to buy the weighted desk top version of these lights. The base of the flexible shaft looks the same but it is different than the one with the spring clamp shown in the link above. If you buy one of these it will be much harder to modify for use on a bracket, like I did. Attached are photos of this installation on my DeWalt 788. I'm now in the process of making a slightly different bracket to mount two more of these LED lights to my Delta Q3 40-650 scroll saw. If you are unhappy with the lighting on your scroll saw and have difficulty seeing where the blade is cutting because of the strobe like shadows being caused with the one light and the upper blade grip, then this modification will solve all of it for less than $45. They are great unmodified for use on other tools too. Charley

May go look at M22-V Hegner tomorrow. Anything I should look for other than how it sounds. Pics look like it's well taken care even they even has receipt for it from 2003. How is it to get parts if needed?

Very well done. The colors are vibrant.

Another piece of artwork from Dick. Beautiful job!

Wow, Jim, that is way cute. What a way to serve.

You did good -it it runs, your probably good to go- their are a few adjustments you can make when it goes out of wack but mine never did -thats actually a very nice saw- my only problem is that it was too big - i like saws a bit smaller. I sold mine years ago - but should of kept it !

You did a super job all the way around... Your robins are quite different from our robins...

Stunningly beautiful. I love your use of depth.

Have you triedit ? does it run? The bearings are sealed being old they might be dry. drun it and see. IKE

You went the extra mile for your friend!!!

Thank you. Danish Oil and Clear Varnish. The frame is just waxed.

Really looks great. So does your frame. good work!

Great job

Very cool! Truly a work of art. Thanks for the lesson.

Very well done!

Nice work and nice of you to make toys for the children. ike

Beautiful piece of art!

Very thoughtful. The world needs more of this. Great job!

Read a post here when I first started scrolling. Doesn't matter how complex the pattern is, they all boil down to: "one hole, one cut, move the blade." That's given me the confidence to try more and more intricate patterns, and pick up other skills along the way such as stack-cutting, corners, lettering, etc.

Looks like a seasoned scroller did this!!!

Just a couple comments that may or may not be relevant to the original post. First, if one is going to topcoat a project and you want to use an oil first, I would suggest using BLO (full strength or thinned) instead of Danish oil. There is no real advantage of having the slight bit of varnish in the Danish oil, if you intend to top coat anyway. The downside to plain BLO over Danish oil may be a slightly longer cure time. Most recommendations are to let it dry several days to a week before handling or top coating. Your mileage may vary. Also, depending on what you topcoat with, the oil step may also be unnecessary. The attraction of oil is that it darkens the grain, making it pop by imparting a bit of an amber tint. If you are top coating with a similar product, like varnish or poly, they already contain oil, so they will accomplish this step, without the separate oil step. Lacquer and water borne finishes go on more clear and don't have the same grain popping quality as oil, so you still may want to apply the oil first, as a colorant. Just be sure to allow the oil to cure sufficiently before applying anything over top. My preferred finish for scrolled items is sprayed shellac. It imparts a similar amber tone to the wood, accomplishing the same thing that the oil does without the extra step. It also dries very quickly, with no lasting odor. It's easy to spray and I can even get inside most frets without the excess build up that you get with heavier finishes like poly. I've never tried dipping in shellac, but I know that others on the forum have advocated that method.

I think the first thing to try is 3M spray adhesive. I'd spray both the disc and wheel, let them set up kinda like contact cement - then put them together. This is just a suggestion. I haven't used this method and can't say for sure it will work.

Absolutely stunning!!

I'm jealous. I just can't believe the work you do. Just amazing.

Fantastic looking piece. Roly

super job, amazing workmanship

You have done it again...absolutely awsome! Your imagination on how to present you work is amazing.

I only use that knob with a newly fitted blade. It's to do with the blade not sitting in the bottom clamp exactly the same position that the previous blade did. The new blade could be 2mm too high or too low so the top arm needs adjusting.

I have also used rubbing alcohol on the set screw and wiped it on an old piece of cloth, that removed any unwanted oil left behind by a blade. Marg

I don't see you as a "mechanical putz" if you successfully disassembled and the re-assembled your saw. That's quite a feat for someone with little knowledge of what they were getting into. I did the same with mine and I fixed most of what was wrong with it. But, I kept messing with it until I had it to what I called "satisfactory" running. It's not perfect but I can live with it. What I did find though, if it isn't securely anchored it will vibrate at some point in it's range of rpm settings. I built a very heavy stand for mine out of 4 x 4 lumber and it still vibrated. I found that if I pushed down very hard on the stand the vibration went away. So, I bought some of the H/F floor padding and it now sits on that and is vibration/noise free. Just keep moving forward and you will get it back to what you remember when it was new. Ray

The larger bearings near the motor, (those on the connecting rod) and the big bolt that the rocker arm pivots on are usually the main sources of play and noise. DeWalt and www.erellacementparts.com now sell the connecting rod with the bearings installed as a single part, because the bearing holes in the connecting rod can go bad too. If you only change these bearings and press out/in the new bearings, make certain that the bearings are still tight in the holes, If loose, blue Locktite around the inside of the bearing hole/ bearing outer race will tighten it up. Charley

Re; your original posting. I have a 40-694 also. Have been working on mechanical things all my life, so it's second nature to me. Don't saw nearly as much a a lot of folks on the site. Am a Devout Believer in preventative maintenance. Take mine apart once a year for greasing. 1. Stand 2X4s around the work area to catch pieces that attempt to escape. 2. Do 1 unit at a time. i.e. redo front lower arms/blade holder. Next to the upper. Use a screwdriver to pry the arms loose from the blade holder & the arm assembly. It REALLY helps to use a channel lock pliers to "pull" the blade clamps back onto each arm. When you have it pulled together enough to see daylight in the bolt hole, use an awl and pry around from each side until you can get the bolt in. 3. Separate all bolts & nuts according to size & length. I keep the old nuts, but replace with new, this is especially important for anything internal. 4. Support the front part with wood blocks to maintain the approximate height. 5. On the motor connecting rod is a bolt that takes the entire load of the saw. Mine broke a few years ago. Go to a hardware store & buy a stainless steel replacement. Stainless is a harder metal. Same would apply to a Dewalt

Where are the blades breaking can be an indication of your problem. Are they breaking in the same place?? Is it different materials that they are breaking in?? I do not know who makes those blades for them but Flying Dutchman and Pegus blades are the best on the market for wood cutting. Prices are about the same wherever you buy. There are many specialty blades so matching the right blade to the work is important. You may want to get a starters package to try different blades and get the feel for them. You touched on a few things that cause blade breakage so you are on the right path. Good luck.

Would it be possible to tape it to the stand, so that you could operate it by using your knee? I own a foot pedal, and that's how I used it. Len

I am both old and lazy (High School coach said I had Chinese Rheumatism. That's where all your blood turns into lead and settles in your A_____ .) Too much work to bend down and accurately set the degree of table tilt. I went to: GOOGLE - PRINT PROTRACTOR and imported that into Inkscape. Drew/traced the attached protractor. Made it 2 1/4" high. Next week I will go to a copy shop and have it laminated. Next it will be glued to an 1/8" scrap for strength. Will saw just below the bottom and sand to the bottom line. Intended to be held behind a tensioned blade when tilting the table to a desired angle. My newest version of Inkscape prints @ 100%. IF anyone wants a copy, resize as needed. jerry ProtractorOne.pdf

Some years back I found and bought a protractor designed for use on the scroll saw, It is clear plastic about 1/4" thick and 2 X 3 1/2" in size with a 45 deg angle cut on the left edge and the protractor degree marks are red silk screened on the face side. This little protractor has proven very handy for me to set the table of my scroll saw to any angle that I desire by just placing it on the table behind the blade and then moving the table while using the blade itself as a pointer on the protractor scale. Unfortunately, I can't remember where I bought it. Has anyone seen these for sale anywhere? I have two friends that would like them and most likely some of the members here would like to have one as well. A Wixey Angle Cube will work if you have your saw table already set and cutting at 90 deg. Place the angle cube on the table of your scroll saw and facing straight forward, zero it, and then tilt the saw table to the angle desired. To return to 90 deg , place the angle cube magnetic base on the saw blade facing straight forward (magnets on the bottom will hold it on the blade), zero it, and then place the angle cube on the table facing straight forward and then move the table until the gauge reads ) 90 degrees. The only problems with using this angle cube is that it's a bit big for use on the scroll saw, and it is designed to set one surface accurately to another.. If you don't face it perfectly to the plane (table) axis of movement, it will not produce an accurate reading. I always check my blade 90 deg setting by cutting into a piece of wood just enough to mark it, then removing the wood and without lifting it, turn the woof around the blade to the back side and then look carefully to see if the blade fits in the groove perfectly from top to bottom.A thick piece of wood works best for doing this. If it does, the table to blade angle is a perfect 90 deg. Another way is to cut slightly into a piece of thick wood near (about 1/4" from one edge) and then look to see if the cut line and the edge of the wood are parallel to each other. On a thick piece of wood it's quite easy to see if the cut line and edge of the wood are even 1/2 degree off.of 90 degrees. Charley

Use a blade that has at least 4 teeth in contact with the wood at anytime,more is better.And placing a playing card over the hole on the saw table where the blade goes thru helps keep fragile thin cuts close to each other from tearing out.