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I cut this from old oak barn wood. A lot of it was totes away so I cleaned it up with a wire brush. I like the way it ended up looking. Cut w #4 spiral and finished with semi poly. Thanks for looking.

This was designed by Steve Good. Over the years, I've utilized more of Steve's patterns than those of any other person. I woud like to thank Steve, yet again, for his tremendous contributions to our hobby. Now back to the bowl/basket. Here is a photo of the bowl as I as gluing it together: Here it is after I have applied the first two (out of four) cots of (food safe) polymerized Tung Oil: Here is is as I presented it (at a safe social distance) to our next door neighbours Jan and Jill: The bowls is made, entirely, from 13mm thick Baltic Birch plywood.

My lady's name is Robin, but she loves Hummingbirds...now ain't that a contradiction. I guess that is why she calls herself "Bird Brain". Steve Good included the "initialhummer.pdf" in a recent e-mail so you can guess I just had to make the "R" for Robin. I modified it litttle to make it into a framed piece rather than a Hanging ornament. Lots of holes - 12 to be exact - cut mostly with Pegas #1 mgt and #2/0 spiral. Perimeter cut done with #3 mgt. She hasn't seen it yet so it gets wrapped and put under the tree for Christmas morning, Cut is 5/32" Maple solid core ply approx 9" x 8" with a Walnut Solid Core Ply backer darkened with Minwax Walnut stain. Added a 12' x 10" mat with a third pice of BB ply Panel finished with multiple coats of spray gloss Lacquer. The custom frame is Poplar with a routed decorative inside edge stained with Minwax Eexpresso and finished with Wipe On Poly.

Something different that I made most recently at the request of my lead pastor, who wanted a modern-art piece depicting the Annunciation of the birth of our Lord. Too large to cut on a scroll saw, so I used a jigsaw to cut the entire picture. Then I backlit it with an LED light strip. It measures 4' x 3'. It will be used as a display at our church's Christmas Eve Walk-through Event.

Hi All, Just wanted to wish you all a Merry Christmas. Each year I light up a pattern by Helmut Hurtig in his memory and I am slowly adding more.

Two of my latest projects

Our Pattermakers! I have had a dozen or more patterns made for me in the short 2 or 3 years that I have been coming to the Village and have seen several hundred or maybe even thousands more made for other Scrollers. I want to thank everyone that has made me a pattern and everyone else that took time out of their day to make patterns for others. Very much appreciated. By the way, I still have a few patterns that have been made for me that I haven't gotten around to cutting out yet... too many ideas, not enough time! Thanks, Barry

Care taking for a 93 year old amputee .. and .. a dimentia'ed 90 year old wife of his (wife's parents) .. man .. that is FULL TIME !!! I didn't realize it. I even took my scroll saw over there when we moved in back in February .. Cut out a manger scene .. and .. that was all I had time for. But .. got this one done this week for my Grand daughter for Christmas. It's cut out of an old SOLID MAPLE HEADBOARD .. with .. that BURL WALNUT I get for a base. Used a Pegas 2/0 MGT and a Flying Dutchman 2/0 - then - finished it off with a #1 FD .. Thanks the the CLOCK Kevin! (@kmmcrafts) and both you and TDP(@TDpainter) for your advise on the pattern I was drawing for it. I think it came out alright. And .. there's the pattern if anyone wants it. It was a FUN cut.

Because of the VERY slow sales year I have been making a lot of toys that our club gives to various charitable organizations. This is the latest. 7" long made of 3/4" pine board. It floats upright and cannot be tipped over.

If you saw my other post, you know I wanted to give my congratulations for the person behind the Whitney Woodworking Farm Scene as that was a fantastic pattern and definitely very challenging to cut. As promised, here is the finished cookbook stand where that pattern is used. I used Curly Cherry with Walnut for the screw hole plugs and handmade knobs with General Finishes oil-based Gloss Arm-R-Seal. I designed the tilt feature based on some others I found but slightly modified since I could only connect them via the sides because of the pattern. This way she can either leave it on counter as a display when she's not cooking or tilt it back to work from. Bookstand Front by Scott Baker, on Flickr Bookstand Rear by Scott Baker, on Flickr Bookstand Side by Scott Baker, on Flickr And with her new cookbook I bought Bookstand With Book by Scott Baker, on Flickr Bookstand Side With Book by Scott Baker, on Flickr Can't wait to see her face on Christmas Day.

Every time my husband looks at, buys new clamps I ask, don't we have enough clamps and he says "you can never have enough clamps"

Made this plaque for a friends dad who retired from the navy

I would be very short in this hobby without the talents of pattern makers.

Looks great Frank. I have made that basket awhile ago and it gets used all the time. I agree about Steve Good. I don't know what I would do if Steve was not the patriarch of scrolling. Everyone should make sure they donate every once and awhile.

?? What kind of adapter, what kind of saw?

That would be a VERY tight radius. I don’t think plywood will bend. I have bent thin strips of wood, but not in a tight radius.

When doing a pattern with layers like the Santa from Steve Good yesterday when I cut the backer and then the front and then any errors will shows. I am not perfect. Do get around this when ever possible I stack cut front and back. Match perfectly that way. Step 1. With the Santa pattern I put all the pieces on the backer. I used Inscape but I guess you could do manually. Made backer red. . Step 2. Cover the back piece with painters tape on one side. Add painters tape to both sides of the front piece. Step 3. Put a few drops of CA (medium) to back. Spray the back of the front with accelerator. Step 4. Press together and apply pattern to front. Step 5. Cut out the outside edge of pattern and separate. The painters tape will come off the backer and the back of the front. Step 6. cut all the front pieces like normal. The red is now waste and when you glue the individual pieces to the backer they will fit perfectly. I will show the final product it bragging rights as it is being painted and Steve just posted Mrs Claus which I will do the same way.

Hi all, This idea came from several concepts I saw all over the net. I am terrible at straight or smooth cuts. This is going to my grandaughter who takes music lessons. I hope it gets her past traditional notes. Multi notes are a better than black and white notes. There is many problems with this piece. Terrible matching thickness of lines. etc.

Made this for a very good friend that loves Angels, pattern from Steve Good

Better not even talk to me about clamps.

You people are seriously sick. jerry

I've got 18 old bench planes, mostly pre-war Stanleys, but a couple Ohio Tool Co and Miller Falls brand. Oh and probably 6 or 8 or 10 block planes. My wife doesn't even ask anymore.

I've got 5 scroll saw.. 1 DeWalt, 1 Delta, 1 Excalibur and 2 Hawks... Might be 3 Hawks very soon,

Done the same as all the rest just different names an colors

Finally finished. My daughter preferred the 'brown' backer for this piece. Grateful thanks to @Helder Botas for his incredible generosity and skill, it's much appreciated Sir and I hope I did it justice. 3mm B/B, piece of laminate flooring for the backer, Niqua #3 reverse blade, Oak frame made myself.

Hi all just cut the smallest letters today 10mm high would not want to try any smaller. This is the start of a project a friend has asked me to have a go at. Its going to be a clock when finished

Now all I have to do is hit the Powerball !!! This was in my email box this morning from WOOD Magazine, along with some other articles. All I can say is WOW!!!!! It would be a decision each morning...fish or work in the shop...LOL Nestled in the forest on a shore of Lake Chelan in central Washington State, Mike Walker's 1,670-square-foot workshop is the epitome of organization. From the outset, plenty of storage space and an efficient workflow dominated the planning. "I am obsessed with organization," Mike says, "and we spent a lot of time planning spaces to accommodate all of the tools and accessories."

I got the top part on with no trouble. The bottom was another matter. I finally got the existing piece off. My saw has very little working room down there. I finally got it off then had a hard time getting the screw for the new piece started on the bottom. After some effort I finally got my big, fat fingers in there and got the screw started and attached the bottom piece. I then had some work to get the blade in and figured that out. Tested it and am very happy with the way the blades cut and their ability to do a neat right turn. Maybe I can work on something new tomorrow.

That came out very nice. The layers in the plywood give an interesting look to the whole thing.

Only 1 scroll saw...at a time. Started with a WEN, cheep to try the obsession...I mean hobby. I liked it a lot so I got a good saw, a King 16" and sold the WEN. If I ever get another scroll saw I'll probably get the same style, Pegas, Seyco, EX, in a 21" but I'll keep the 16" for a travel saw. It doesn't take up much room in the 5th wheel!

very nice job

nice work he willlove it. IKE

Amazing work, well done. Marg

Very nice Jim. I do like toys and making them.

Another thumbs up. Your lettering is perfect.

Wow, Jim, that is way cute. What a way to serve.

Welcome back to the Village, to a past member from a fairly new member. I see you are located in Jax, Fl. I'm also on the East Coast of Central Florida in Ormond Beach about an hour South.

Yeah, I'll be Kevin is right. Good luck.

I’ve made lots of stuff that I’ve already posted in other forums. Here’s some of it. Lots of Sue Mey stuff! E55FFD7B-E425-4CC8-B68A-098A0A252A63.MOV FA62B77D-9B94-476D-A2DB-F852CB9FD947.MOV

I got an artist stool at Hobby Lobby last spring. It has a pneumatic cylinder and a lever like a office chair. The seat was hard so I ordered a memory foam office chair cushion from Amazon...comfy. Every 20-30 minutes at the saw I tap the lever and drop it an inch or so, just that little bit changes my position enough to help. When I get up for something I raise it back up and start over. It helps me a lot to vary my position, just a little, every now and then.

You have bigger fish to fry. Only reason i posted about it is it's the only thing in SSV i thought was strange, This is small potatoes for you "Guru bottle washer"!!!

Picked this saw up a little over a year ago after a used DW 788 went belly up on me. Saw some great stuff on it and decided to go for it. Glad I did. Assembly was fairly easy. As shared in another review, the video by Steve Good does a great job of showing the process step by step. Leveling was simple as long as you don't tighten everything down in advance. I added an extra large top onto my saw as I cut massive pieces. I did have an issue with the tensioning rod in the back. Ray at Seyco ( owner) was awesome!! He answered every call I made within an hour and would spend time with me troubleshooting till we got it right. His customer service is top notch and never made me feel like I was a bother. Sent a replacement part without charge and it has been humming ever since. I have logged thousands of hours on this thing and it only had that one minor issue. The table top being extra large in the first place is a major bonus to me. I have added a magnifying light to it as a light does not come standard. A light standard would really complete the saw but as is, it is wonderful for the price. It is easy to adjust the aggressiveness of the cut just by adjusting the tensioner to be level with the table top or not. Love this saw and the only reason I would choose anything else is to go for a 30" throat cap.

I have the porter cable santa brought me 3 years ago, and the EX-21 I picked up on craigs list the following May - my go to saw, and an old type one delta a buddy traded me for a beer. multiple sanders, skill saws, jig saws, drills, etc etc

I have one working scroll saw, band saw, table saw, skill saw, reciprocating saw, drill press, two cordless drills. I have a vintage router that may or may not work, the power cord is so cracked I'm afraid to turn it on without serious rubber matting between myself and the ground. I also have five old planes, anywhere from 1960's Sears to something that was probably handed down from my wife's grandfather's grandfather, all of which are in dire need of cleaning/restoration and sharpening. My wife asks why I have them if I don't use them.....then gets mad when I ask her why she has shoes she hasn't worn in a year or more. THEY'RE VINTAGE, AND EFFIN' COOL!!!

OH somebody HAD to mention routers....I do have a few of those.

For me, I have my primary saw, but I have an emergency back-up (both DeWalt's). I cut enough that I can't really afford to be out of commission for long, so having the back-up is a must. As soon as I hear my primary saw begin making the telltale sounds of wearing out, I order a new one and have it at the ready.

I am sure this is well probably known to the old hands but I have not run across it in my reading. When I did the walnut inlay on this project, I used a #63 drill for the blade entry. I located the hole in the walnut. The oak and the walnut were each 3/8" thick with the walnut below the oak and I used a No. 3 FDSR set at less than 1 degree angle. (determined by cutting scrap test piece until a press fit was achieved.) Here's the trick I tried: After completing the letters I kept the blade set at the same angle and cut a tight circle about 1/8" diameter out of a 3/4" scrap piece of walnut. With the angle of the blade - I ended up with a "walnut tooth pick" This sharp piece was placed in the drill hole of the work piece and then lightly tapped into the hole. You can see the fill but only if you look closely. In this case, I could have chosen a lighter shade of walnut for the peg and it would be even less apparent. I found this to be much faster and less messy than trying to till the hole with sawdust and glue. For what it is worth...... Bruce

I have Delta and am pleased with it. Both are probably shipped from the factory(s) greased inadequately. There are 2 schools of thought on this site, and both have merit. 1. I have been doing mechanical work most of my life, and it is second nature to me. I unpacked my saw, started it up to be sure that it was OK and dissembled a brand new saw and greased all the bearings. I take mine apart every year and grease it. 2. Others don't want to do that because it voids the warranty. Some will tell you that their saw didn't last the warranty period. You're damned if you do and damned if you don't. An awful lot will depend on how many hours a year you use it. I only saw "when I feel like it." Do not try to sell anything and shut down for the winter (Iowa) because I don't have a heated place to work, and don't care to put in a heater to do so. I think I read on this site that it's easier to get repair parts for a Dewalt. Best of luck on your decision Friend. jerry

My Delta has oil ports for the pivot points which I fill every few weeks. The only other place I can think of greasing are the swivel connections in the back. The manual does not say to grease them and the saw is pretty quiet so I may check them but will probably not grease them.

Don't remember where I learned this. Think it was a video. A guy said to put a layer of foam between the bottom of the saw & the base it is bolted to. Did it today and like it. 2" X 15" X 17" piece at Hobby Lobby was $6.99. It's in the Fabric Section. In our store it was along an outer wall. I unbolted the front of the saw & put the piece where I wanted it. Scored the cut with a utility knife and pocked the bolt holes with an awl. Set the bolts in the holes and sawed the foam with the scroll saw. Kept pulling the scored line apart and it cut like warm butter. I also sawed the bolt holes, but maybe that wasn't necessary. Bought the Delta new a few months ago and took it apart right away and greased it per YouTube video. (The working parts are identical to a 788.) It runs quieter now, not having the saw bolted direcly to the stand. jerry