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I may have posted this Jim Blume before but what I'm really posting is the frame. I have a bunch of particle board that I was thinking of throwing out. Then I noticed one side is very smooth and I kind of liked the geometric shapes. I made a frame to try my rebuilt sled for my table saw. There is no finish on the frame. Also it is very smooth and should take paint easily.

Just for the fun of it. Using shop plywood scraps up. Woodburned edges burning pen. Some have slightly torched edges. Longest is 9" long. Pattern by neighborhood Trees.

Well I have been very busy and I like it that way. Keeps me out of trouble. Well have to head back to the saw it is calling me. and I miss it. Have a great day. Mimi

These are 2 more that I was able t cut this month. Charles Dearing pattern Zombie Santa and Helder Botas Rose from the movie Titanic. The zombie santa I am very disappointed in because the BB ply started to separate while taking the pattern off . I was using painters tape on that one but Rose was a little different, I used press n seal instead of tape.

Couldn't resist.................I just had to cut it.

The reason I do not use tape... I glue directly to the wood, take the pattern off with MS. Nice cuttings.

This is an interesting discussion. I grew up around tools my father was a German tool and die machinist. If he didn't have it he made it. We never had the resources to buy a new machine. Most of us have been in the position that we bought or buy the best tool that we can afford. I started that journey in 1980. I then bought mostly by word of mouth and the experience of others. Now with the internet and forums like this we have the ability to do serious homework before buying anything. I still have my Delta Unisaw, 14" bandsaw with riser, and just sold my Delta 16" floor model drill press. My focus on tools has changed as I am more and more a techno junkie, that is why I now own the Nova DVR drill press and lath. Function, reliability and sensible engineering are critical. Example the EX style of saw having the table stay level is brilliant in my opinion. Pegas did one better by replacing the EX clamps. So for me the best saw for all around functionality hands down is the Pegas. Most important I want to make stuff with a minimum of frustration and fuss. That means reliable tools. Any tool will require maintenance and that is on us. In 2004 my wife bought me a Delta SS350 16 inch scroll saw, A huge step up from the very frustrating and poorly engineered Craftsman that I had. That Delta had the best clamps ever but from day one vibrated and just sounded off. I took it apart and discovered that the links inside were just simple steel with holes no bearings. I put heavy duty grease everywhere and it just purred after that. A year later I bought the Hawk G4 26. Sold the Delta last year. Sorry for the rambling I have not snorted any sawdust yet today.

I had a table saw, I made, for about 30+ years and I only used the 7 1/4" blades. They were cheap to purchase and in the early days cheap to get sharpened. Later they became so cheap that they were disposable and you get them in packs of three. That saw made kitchens, wardrobes, all types of furniture etc.

Finally finished this little guy. Used Pegas #1 MG blades. Not a difficult cut, but lots of pilot holes to drill. Very few straight lines, all of them around the borders, so this would lend itself well to spiral blades.

I'm sure happy to hear that I'm not alone. My wife gets on my case all the time because I dumpster dive. If I find anything that is wood, I see it as treasure. If it is something mechanical, I try to imagine how I can use it. My tiny shop suffers from my illness. So far, I'm storing all of my wood in various spots throughout my shop but I'm going to build a wood cart that can be stored outdoors. Our climate is pretty moderate here in So Cal. Very seldom do we have extreme temperature/humidy changes. If I had unlimited funds, I'm sure I'd be buying weekly or monthly from Cherokee Wood Products. They are like my drug dealer. We need to start WHA throughout the nation. "wood hoarders anonymous".

I made this wood storage rack. I think it'd worked really well so far. I've shoved too many smaller pieces in the three shelves on the left and need to thin it out, next week. I store boards vertically from right to left...short 3', med. 4-6', long 6' + . Plenty of room behind for sheet goods. It has casters to move out to clean...RIGHT but I can blow the stuff out from under with a leaf blower! Looking at it empty...I had a thought, amazing. I went to the, cold, shop and checked the size of the bins on the left. When I built this, 2 yrs ago, I hadn't started scrolling yet and had no idea a spot to store 12"x12" pieces of Baltic Birch Plywood would be a necessity. I just measured it and it's a little tight. I could either trim off a 1/8" and lay them flat, or empty the top bin and stand them vertically. I'll do the later in the next couple of days!

I quess I got lucky my Delta works fine. The only thing I had to do was tighten the bolt on the motor after six months. It came loose and started making noise. I track it to that problem 20 minutes later back working fine and no issues for the last two years.

I confess, I'm a hoarder too. There is no cure. I have kept every little piece I have (almost). I'm out of room and some is just leaning against the tables. When they were little my daughters would tell me, " what a mess daddy, what a mess " I just stack the small pieces on top of the other pieces. I'll cut something out of it sooner or later.

Hi, my name is Tom and I am a wood hoarder. I have piles of wood all over my shop, and the only way I know to reduce the piles is to take it out and burn it. I will never use all the little scraps and pieces of scroll size wood. Keeping them is like an addiction. Now that I've said that, I'll go down to the shop and get rid of all the scraps.... NOT. Tom

I'd snap that saw up in a heartbeat. I love old iron. I restored a Burke #4 horizontal mill. It was a rust bucket. Evapo-Rust is your friend. I then sold it because I could not find a vertical attachment. Old iron is the best. The saw comes with several inserts too. Good buy! I only have a folding saw because of space constraints.

Made this for my daughter. 3/4” red oak, finished with arm-r-Seal. Cut on EX21 using pegas #5 MG.

I did this a year ago. The wood is Cherry. Love that wood. Give credit for pattern to Sam Custodio Workshop & Designs

Bit of scrolling bit of CNC work and a bit of lasering I can multi task. Roly

I stack cut these 2 wolves and stained them differently. Cant decide which I liked more, so I thought yall might give me your opinion.

This Sculptured Fretwork portrait of an Eagle Bust (my go to subject) was made from a slightly modified and resized pattern by G&K Woodworking to suit an 11” x 14” panel. I used nominal 1” x 12” Poplar purchased a Lowes as I did not want to invest a lot of money for any expensive wood as this was my first attempt at doing a sculptured portrait. The fretwork was cut using Pegas #1 Spiral blades and the panel was affixed to a painted Black 1/4” thick BB Ply Backer after sculpturing and coloring was completed. I would like to take this opportunity to give a big THANK YOU to Dick Mira for sharing information regarding the sculpturing and coloring process. I was his support and encouragement that gave me the confidence to try this kind of project. This first attempt was a very big learning experience. The first lesson learned is that the choice for an appropriate pattern is very important. Since I'm not capable of making my own patterns I need to utilize those made by others, and since most are not made with sculpturing in mind they may often need to be modified somewhat. I quickly learned that the sculpturing process is not easy, requires a lot of attention to details and a lot of hand sanding. I also learned that the sculpturing and painting process is very time consuming, especially waiting for the finishing materials to dry in between coats. I also made a custom Poplar Frame embellished with some premade decorative trim. The frame was stained with Minwax Red Mahogany and the trim colored with a light coat of gold(ish) colored paint. The frame is protected with multiple coats of Wipe-On-Poly. Edit 12/28/20: It will be a little while before I upload a new photo. Decided to take some of the comments and suggestions to heart and work on the background. Edit 1/3/21: Here is my Eagle Bust Portrait with a colored bacground. I saw a photo of a real Eagle with a blue background that had fuzzy stars. Could not figure out how to make my stars fuzzy. The two coats of the blue poly/paint mix over the original poly finish took forever to dry. Then the stars, using a stencil and spray can white, and another coat of Wipe-on Poly.

What with Xmas stuff to cut and Tony still out of action, I've not had a lot of time for me in my shop. Well, today I plonked Tony in front of a John Wayne movie and went out to my shop for some time just for me. An H.Botas pattern, 3mm B/B, Niqua #3 ultra reverse blade and a lot of fun. !!

This beautiful mountain inhabitant was cut with a scroll saw using Pegas Spiral Blades #5 and then power carved from a piece of Sapele that was 19" x 15" x1". It was then stained with MinWax Color Wash in Weathered Wood and some light touches of burnt umber oils and blue/green oils for the eyes.. A final finish of Clear Matte Polycrylic was then applied.

From were I am setting I don’t see anything wrong. Especially with MS Rose

Ooh, we have lots of that board, I'll have to give it a try. Thanks for the info.

Fingers Crossed that this works. Marg Woohoo it did.

Anything I have that is smaller than 4" square or a 2 inch wide by 6 inch long I use as campfire wood.. and I gotta say.. there isn't very much that does get burned.. Being a seller and just making things to sell I find pretty good ways to just use it up for the most part.. I do have a table that I pile it up on.. once the stack gets kind of large.. I go through it and start making oddball things just to specifically use it up

You caught me at the right time. I just cleaned up my shop today. I have this metal cart that I store my small pieces. On other side of the wall is the long boards.

I cut a few of these Steve Good designed goodbyes too. I call it 'Placing 2020 where it belongs': I think that black is a suitable colour for the year.

That's a neat idea Les, I rather like it. I wonder what it would look like stained ?

This is from the second pattern by Steve Good. 5/16” oak with 321 finish. Thanks for looking.

Mostly a good amount of "elbow grease". I usually look closely at any of the machined surfaces to make sure they are not rusted beyond usability. Then, if it proves to be ok in that department, just a tear down and clean and reassembly. Lubing anything necessary along the way. It's not hard. Just time consuming. My wife buys aluminum sheets for inside of our stove's oven. They are cheap at Walmart. You can put one on top of a couple of saw horses with a plywood top and do your disassembly on that. It also keeps the cleaning solution and debris contained. I see folks all the time selling drill presses and bandsaws that they have restored. There is a big market for these old "relics" because everybody knows how well made they were. My problem is living in a mobile home park I don't have a lot of space to work and I do have to be careful not to annoy my neighbors with noise. Most of them depend on me to fix whatever they need fixed though so they don't say anything. But still, it's a matter of respect. I try to be a good neighbor.

I have and still use my Craftsman table saw that I bought in 1957 and I use it almost every day, A lot of people don't like them but I upgraded the fence and it was the best improvement I could have done the rest of it is rock solid and I am pretty sure the same drive belt is still on the saw and works super smooth.

Hi, y'all! Something I've found helps is to keep a wooden skewer in my apron pocket. If the piece is too small and my finger obstructs the view while I'm cutting, the pointy end can hold the down the piece and give me a clearer view -- and if it gets in the way of the blade it isn't as exciting as if it was a metal awl or ice pick! They are also great for poking out little pieces of wood in small cuts. This may be a bad thing (let me know if it hurts the saw), but when I'm cutting sharp corners or curves (like Scott and Harvey puzzle pieces), I slow down and pull the wood straight toward me as I round the curve. I figure it gives the saw a little more time to make the cut and not curve the cut from top to bottom. Thanks for all the great advice! Kathy

I get side tracked so easy that any movement makes it worse.here I thought I was caught up and find I didn,t make a box for Ralph DATELLE. I,m forgetting to take pictures of all the ornaments too.but here's some.ooo

1939 Graham-Paige Model 97 The Graham Brothers had started the Graham Paige Auto Company in 1927 after manufacturing and selling kits to modify Ford Model T’s. Even though they began shortly before the depression, the company was successful because of the car’s quality and their “Blue Streak” 8-cylinder engine and the introduction of a crankshaft driven super charger. Their innovative cars ran in many prestigious races including several French Gran-Prix’s and the won the Concours D'Elegance in Paris. By the late 30’s their original design had become somewhat dated and they hired a new design team to accentuate the current Art-Deco style of the era. The 1938 model was named the “Spirit of Motion” and the forward rake of the front grill and fenders gave the impression of forward movement even when standing still. Similar to the Ocean Liner ads of the period showing the upward view of the prow of the ship cutting through the waves. It became better known as the “Shark Nose” Model 97. In 1940, production ceased. During WWII the plant was involved in war production and eventually the company was purchased by Kaiser Auto and eventually the Nash/ AMC corp.

thank you for letting me join your site, I am 62 years old, live in Taree, NSW, Australia. I am an old bloke trying to learn more bad habits

I am so proud of this one, you have no idea. I made it for my daughter and her partner. A few years ago we all went to the US and we went to Vegas, best holiday ever. Anyway we had our Family Christmas on Sunday and they loved it. I made it so long ago I can't remember what the wood was but I think it was Rosewood and pine for the box. Marg For some unknown reason only one photo will load.

The problem I ran into with the excalibur was that the bearing sleeves couldn't be sourced.. I found the bearings but not the sleeves.. Putting new bearings with worn old sleeves might make it very short lived.. I also discovered that the whole assembly from Ray is almost the same price as all those bearings.. so even if you could source the sleeves the cost is probably more money than just buying the whole assembly and replace all of it at once. The whole assembly is really quite easy to do.. I took a lot of photos of my process and uploaded a topic about the rebuild on my saw. I'll see if I can find it and link it here. I do have the China made EX-21.. https://www.seyco.com/partspage/

very nice, but I'd be concerned about the glue that hold all the wood chips together causing health problems

That's me exactly. I can'r bear to throw anything away. I have mine on carts and boxes full of little cutoffs all over the place. I'm 81. Can you imagine my hoard? Yikes! I thought I was just a hobbyist and part time woodworker. I can't seem to stop buying wood. I didn't realize I was also a wood collector.

Excellent idea I'm going to keep it in mind and use it with something that I do that I think will work with this type of frame.

Every woodworker I've ever talked to that has had both the belt drive saw like Ray shows in his link and the direct drive all say the old-school belt drive is the only way to go.. Just as Ray said.. There are alot of end play in the bearings and shaft of these motors.. even if it is a good tight motor when brand new.. give it a few years and tell me what you think then.. I don't think you can buy a saw with the motor hanging off the back like that anymore.. Too bad too.. you can't beat them old saws.. built like a tank..

Part of it power. The tilting arbor saws usually have a bigger motor. Also, the motorized saws have quite a bit of play in their bearings and the shaft will start to wobble after a lot of use. I've had both types and the tilting arbor saws are far better. I've been seeing a lot of the old Crafstman saws for sale on C/L for $100 on up depending on condition. They seem to be a pretty good saw and have a small footprint. Some of them had table extensions that make the saw wider. I'm thinking of buying one of them just to tinker with and see if I can restore it to it's original look/feel. Here's one like I'm referring to. This one has a side extension but most don't. These things were really built. https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/tls/d/laguna-niguel-table-saw-craftsman/7252826926.html

I've wore out so many brands of scroll saws, Chinese and American and Canadian.Of all the ones i wore out I chose to stay with the DW788.Regreasing the Dewalt will give you a good 5+years of hard scrolling before. if ever the grease will need changing(car axle grease) Other than that the usual repairs like a broken bolt,bellows,Thumb screw.Best thing i ever did was switch to the Dewalt!!!

That's gorgeous! Well done.

They are from Steve Good, I cut them and my wife painted them.

I made this yesterday for my daughter and her hospital unit. Maple and Purpleheart. Pattern by Kathy Wise (free). I put the blessings of the hands on the back.

The bigger issue with Delta is parts.. Not IF you need parts.. but when you need parts.. they may not be available anymore.. Delta in the recent years could care less if the saw is only a year old.. they don't support the parts.. Service IMO is going to vary depending on the management of the service center.. but they are only as good as the parts availability can take them too.. These service centers aren't like me.. I cross reference parts and do extensive searching to find what I need to repair something.. But these "Delta" service centers are going to look up the "Delta" part number and it says OBSOLETE.. they will say they can't help you.. even though the part many times is used across many " other" brands and tools.. I have a 2010 ish Delta jointer.. has variable speed for the motor.. but I never used it however the thing started running slow.. no matter where the dial was it didn't change... would have been fine if it were stuck on high, LOL.. The part no longer available.. but crossing the part over I found that Porter Cable used the same part as did a few others.. I wasn't going to pay $150 for the part though so I just rewired it to run full speed.. My point is.. a service center would have said to put it in the landfill.. I do most my own repairs so I'm not too worried about service centers.. but parts availability would be a plus in buying something.. and Delta seems to lack very badly in that aspect.. Just know.. if you buy it.. you might be throwing it away when it comes time to need a part.. and sometimes those parts aren't even available on brand new equipment.. even a week old.. the plus is you could return it.. a year old you might be out of luck though.

Just saying you get what you pay for .

This is me. I would not grease a machine that is still under warrantee unless the owners manual states what and where to grease/oil/lube. In most cases the sleeves and fittings needing the grease are only accessible by opening the cover and disassembling the machine. That is the case with both my DW788's. Once you open that cover you can pretty much forget your warrantee. Just something to think about.