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I first learned of this pattern when Richard (heppnerguy) showed us his creation from the pattern here last October. He cut his in an evening but it took me much longer (17 hours). I cut this from 3 centimetre thick Splated maple mostly using #0 Pegas spiral blades (and breaking about 40 of them in the process). In a few places, I utilized Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #3 and #1 blades (without any breakage) I found that I could not cut all the lines in Fiona's pattern without ruining the integrity of the work. The photo below shows a segment of the pattern with lines marked in red in places where I decided to leave a gap: Once cut and sealed, I backed the piece with pale blue glass: It is now hanging in the window of our main bathroom so that the Blue Tits can greet us every morning much like they did back in our typical English garden. Great Memories! My family and I have have fond memories of these little birds when we lived in England throughout most of the 1970s. They did, indeed spend a lot of their time in Hawthorn shrubs in our front garden. Here is a photo of the real thing: Fiona has captured both the birds and the shrubs perfectly in her pattern. I

I purchased Lou, my Paint Mare, in 2006 at the age 6 or 7 - previous owner was unsure of her age. For the first year we had some rough times as she was barely green broke but soon we had some wonderful rides together. When my eldest daughter and her family came into my life in 2008, she too developed a great relationship with my horse but experienced her own issues (bulging lower disc in the back after a fall from Lou) with her. When we left Colorado for Ohio in 2012, Lou stayed behind until we could get into a better financial position and finally joined us here in 2017. Unfortunately, we learned that she had developed Squamous Cell Carcinoma (Cancer) in her left eyelid which is a common problem with Paint horses that have bald faces like mine. I wasn't able to afford the surgery at Ohio State University Veterinary Hospital so we decided to try other medications that ultimately did not help matters. After some aggravating and heart-wrenching thought and discussion, I decided that Lou would be euthanized and so Monday, yesterday, she crossed over the Rainbow Bridge onto greener pastures. With much thanks to Grampa for his efforts, I made this memorial for my eldest so she could keep something of Lou (I have my halter and saddle). The picture is of my eldest's last rodeo with Lou this past August while the horsehair is a lock of Lou's mane. Charmayne Picture of Lou by Scott Baker, on Flickr I'll give the frame to my eldest when she comes back out this next weekend as I didn't put the last pieces on until tonight.

A big THANK YOU is going out to Bernd (munzieb) who was willing to share the Hummingbird pattern for the lamp body side panels. My version is also made from solid Oak. Body Panels cut from 1/4x5 1/2 x 48 and the top and base was cut from 1/2x5 1/2x24. The Base and top are my design. The lamp body is 4 1/2" square by 10" tall. The base is 5 1/2" square x 1 1/2" tall. The Top is 5 1/2 Square x 1/2" tall. The vertical edges of the body panels were beveled to 45 degrees on my bench belt sander. All the mitering and chamfering done for the base and top was done on the table saw. I use a frame strap clamp during glue up to insure the base was square. I use the scrolll saw to cut the cutouts in at the bottom of the base sides before glue up. Like Bernd, I used amber plexiglass. However, I made the plexiglass more translucent by applying velum with sparay adhesive to the inside face. The electrical components consist of a 6 ft lamp cord with an inline rocker switch, short lamp pipe nipple, candlelabra socket and LED bulb. The top is loose fit for access to the bulb. I stack cut the four sides and used Pegas #3 MGT R Blades. Cutting the 1" thick stack was slow but not too difficult. After assembly and sanding, the lamp and the loose top was finished with many coats of clear gloss spray Lacquer. Made this lamp for my lady as she loves Hummingbirds. That makes two Hummingbird plaques, one Hummingbird framed piece and now this Hummingbird lamp . She is Happy.

After the topic a month or so back I purchased a pin nailer to nail my stacks together rather than just taping around the edges. I bought the Banks brand from HF as it was on sale plus my 25% coupon. I've had the thing for several weeks but have not done any stack cutting until yesterday. I gotta say I love this thing, late last fall I was running low on my BBply and rather than taking a day off of shop time as I was really busy I just ordered BBply from Cherokee. I ordered the 12 x 12 squares which work out real well as my shelf liner is 12" so rolling out the liner to the top layer and nail the other ones and place the pattern on it works really well. 12 x 12 is someone large for blank as I typically always did either 7x7 or 8x8 depending on the ornament patterns at hand.. typically 4-6 ornament stacks cut from those smaller blanks. In the past I was placing the tape around the edge of the 12 x 12 and then placing the patterns out.. then scroll sawing out the blanks to a smaller size around the ornaments and retaping the cut edges.. Now I cut the blank smaller and just shoot a couple nails around those edges.. I've always done either a stack of 4 or 5.. I like 5 but it slows the work down just enough that I really like 4 better. The 1/2" pins held well through the stack of 4 and didn't protrude through the bottom of the stack at all.. Cut a few stacks yesterday and it went real well.. So anyway, just thought I'd say thanks to all those topics about the pin nailers for stack cutting.. It is a time saver and it also holds the stack tighter together.. in some cases on larger projects the center would be bouncing around a bit.. this sure will help in those cases.. Pin nailer I bought https://www.harborfreight.com/23-gauge-pin-nailer-64143.html?_br_psugg_q=pin+nailer

This is my husbands ‘71 AMC Javelin. 3/4 inch thick pine cut with a 0/2 spiral blade.

I have dused a pinnailer for the last 18 nmonths and I love it. I bought mine to fasten some wood work in my home then decided ot try it on scrolling. thhe nice thing about it is when doing fretwork if there is any open spots you nail it and it gives you a one piece of ply feeling. IKE

This project had two goals. First it was an experiment in presentation. The 10” x 16” cut panel is 1/8” BB Ply painted flat black after cutting. The backer is a 12” x 17” 1/4” BB Ply that was left natural except for the colored pattern that was hand painted with Acrylic Craft Paints. The glued up panel was further finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The oversized backer creates a matted effect when placed in the Frame. The custom frame is made from Red Oak that was enhanced with Minwax Red Oak stain and finished with multiple coats of Wipe-On-Poly. This rather simple pattern was a free decal stencil that was found online that I converted to a scroll saw Pattern in Inkscape. I cut the panel in less than two hours with a Pegas #1 MGT R blade. Second, in addition to the presentation experiment my intention was to provide the members a simple pattern for those who might be interested in attempting to make a colored fretwork piece. A very inexpensive set with a variety of color Acrylic Craft Paints and a few cheap artist brushes will get you started. I know we have some budding artist, often the Scroller’s spouse, out there who has already added color to some pieces. For those, this would be a piece of cake. I’ll be uploading both the pattern and the original color version to the Pattern Library for those who may wish to give it a try. Just a little hint for those who haven’t done any painting like this is: You start with light tints and build up in layers to the finished darker tints letting each layer to dry completely before adding the next layer. This makes shading effects easier to accomplish. And JFYI, I don’t pretend to be an expert or even an artist as I’m actually just experimenting, practicing and learning myself. Here is the original artwork:

I dont use a vac system on my saws anymore - but years ago i bought a old used electrolux for 20 bucks and used that not that bad -thou the bags are next to impossible to get - but i did have a cloth one that cleaned out easily-

I got back to my scroll saw art after a month break to work on other projects. I made this one for my wife, Leslie, because she taught me to love nature.

I like what you have done here and will give it a try. Thanks!

Absolutely beautiful Frank

Rocky time , may I suggest you put a screen on the funnel or a trap in line, for those small pieces you Don't want sucked up.

MY wife would LOVE that... Hmmmm.

A straight blade for me because the detailed fine points at the ends of some of those cutouts would get lost with a spiral blade.. The spiral blade is basically a round blade and it's difficult to make fine detail points with them.. But I do think a small spiral blade with this cutting would still be a beautiful piece either way.. But I tend to get picky on some of those fine detailed points.. Probably easier to cut with a spiral.. but better detailed with flat blade.. Just my opinion..

Full size plan from https://www.thewinfieldcollection.com/product/Gun_Rack_Wood_Project_Plan/Other-Furniture-Woodcraft-Patterns I used Red Oak and finshied with Watco Medium Walnut. A very nice easy to follow plan at a reasonable cost.

Long ago....Has bit the dust at this time.... Name is BAD ASH VAC.... Made for sucking up leftovers from a Fireplace. Not super quite, but Big time Quite that the Shop Vacs. Have it set up with my PVC set up. Works like a Charm. Danny :+} Oh yea the first one did last around a Year. Second one I thot was going within the next year, but I Investigated and there was a PROPER WAY TO CLEAN THE FILTERS. One I didn't even know was there. Anyway.... Live n Learn.... :+}

Hi ..I have been busy with a few other projects so haven't done much scroll sawing..But I ran across what I think was a good deal so I had to snap it up...came with 3 gross of blades and 5 extra blade holders ..picked up another saw also...

Sharon and I care for her mom (who lives with us). One day as she was wandering down the hall I asked to see her "hall Pass". The hall pass turned into the daily joke that got her to smile, so today I actually made her one ..

The Avett Brothers. If you don't know their music you should check them out. No Hard Feelings, Victory, Down With The Shine, would be good ones to start with. Cut on 1/2" live edge Walnut.

I've not done much for gluing up boards in the past to get a larger chunk of wood other than just small cutting boards etc.. for the most part I've always used plywood for portraits. I had to put my Grate Dane / Lab mix down yesterday and was thinking about making a large portrait of him. Rather than cut on the scroll saw I want to try to carve a picture on my CNC.. This will be most likely a late spring or summer project as I got a lot of bookkeeping etc. to do and I have to figure out how to make a design file / pattern for the CNC.. Not being in too many groups for the CNC I'm not sure if there is nice folks that will do designs like there is for our wonderful pattern designers here in the scroll saw village. I'm not one that likes to be that new person on a forum and make my first post be a request either, LOL I've been considering buying the laser attachment for my CNC and I may do just that so that designing a carve file wouldn't need to be done.. just do similar to my engraving of the ornament on a much larger scale.. IF I do buy the laser engraving attachment for the CNC then I would probably just use plywood.. Carving looks better on solid wood is the reason I thought I'd need to do a glue up.. Anyway I was thinking of making this portrait about 2 x 2 foot.. from solid wood {probably either Poplar or Cherry ). Is it best to glue up several 3-5 inch slats or just a couple wide boards together work okay? I'm thinking the slats might work better from being prone to cup / warp ? He was 14 years old and we all knew he wouldn't be with us a lot longer so this year I made all the kids a ornament on my laser, I posted this in the other woodworking section here on the village last fall. But here is a picture of him and the laser engraved ornament I made for the kids.

Haven't posted for awhile but that doesn't mean I haven't been on the saw. Here are some recent ones that I have done. The first two are Jim Blume patterns on birch burl slabs. The last three are H Botas patterns. Warrior is on birch and the other two are black poplar. Jeff

My condolences regarding your friend - I've had to put down several over the years and it never gets easier! Great memento and shrine to your buddy!

You know, I'm not saying this is the way it is but... That's the 3rd saw you bought and you still hear a knocking Are you mistaking the knocking for a normal sound? My saw has what you might call a knocking, but its the normal movement of the machine - heck you should hear it on 9 LO(L Why not record the sound and let us hear it.

I'm not sure that would work Kevin. Without it, the only tension adjustment you'd have would be the flip lever. At least with the rod in place you have some adjustment as to how tight or loose you want it prior to flipping the lever. On the EX/Pegas that knob at the back gives you a way of tightening up the tension over what the lever gives you.

Very nice work!! My experience with spirals is that the Pegas brand are more brittle and break a lot easier than the FD brand.. Also I think the Pegas # system runs a bit smaller than the FD.. ie a #1 Pegas is like a 2/0 FD

That is assuming the scroller using the flat blade is very good at following the lines and making the inside points meet and the outside points are neatly accomplished. In reviewing many of the photos of projects shown in this forum, I can state, without any reservation, that there are more "buggers" visable by the straight blade users than those who use spirals because the spirals "look like" they are intended to be that way. When using straight blades and spinning the work piece at changes of direction, the point/corner is often messed up worse than any spiral blade would do. I know because it happens to me quite often, even on simple cutouts. In my opinion, spiral blades, for patterns like the one the OP mentioned and most wildlife portraits, are much more forgiving for tha apperance of the overall finished project. FEATHERS AND FUR are not smooth.

Yes, I tried that using my wife's stethoscope. The loudest knocking sound is heard near where the upper connecting rod connects to the vertical rocker assembly. I didn't find any sign of wear on any of the sleeves when I had it open, so I don't think that is the culprit.

A pin gun is great as you can fire nail though any part of the pattern that is going to be discarded.

Beautiful.

I do a lot of this type of pattern and always use a #3 reverse flat blade. Like Kev says, you can't get those 'pointy' bits using a spiral.

I hear what you're saying about the fine points....I think i'll do this pattern both ways and report back.

Oh wow you did an amazing job and I love the blue glass backer. Well done. Marg

Think maybe Ray is right.. If it's a bad bearing or mechanical it seems like it'd knock all the time.. but get louder and faster with higher speeds etc.. and may change with a load on it or different blade tension etc..

Nice!

Finished this this past weekend. Second sign I've made. This one is for my uncle for Christmas.

One line of conversation was the motor bolts were loose or the motor bearings were bad. Some one may remember more of the details. RJF

Beautiful work! The blue glass makes it very unique.

Welcome aboard from another Hegner fan. I have two oldies but goodies. It's nice to see you here. Lots of friendly people to meet and lots of answers if you have questions. Looks like you are up to a great start. Just keep on posting.

Wow! That is impressive! It looks like an intensive amount of work.

Thanks Melanie, I put together some classic practice boards for her to get her feet wet with (when she finds the time). So I am ready when she decides its time to dive in.

From my woodshop days making a glued up panel requires a lot of work and equipment. If I was making a 24" wide panel I would use four nom 8" wide boards (yes that is 30") and a min 3/4" thick (or what ever the carving machine requires). The edges need to be jointed or they will NEVER pull together. Yes you flip the boards so the growth rings alternate up down up down. I would use biscuits, but for a csarving panel this might not work well unless they can be place outside the cut area. Then to make the panel appropriate for carving the panel would need to be planned to a uniform "flat" thickness. Hard to find a planner that wide. Of course the panel then needs to be sanded smoth with a wide belt sander. Only after all that you then cut the panel to the final panel size the pattern needs. Way too much work to make the panel yourself. I didn't have the wide sander but I've made table tops this way...lots of sanding work is necessary to get a flat surface.. I would suggest you check out some local custom cabinet maker shops that deal in making solid hardwood cabinetry. They deal in doing this kind of work all the time and they have the wood and equipment. I'm betting you can find one who would be willing to make the panel for you and even do grain matching so the panel would be very uniform. Might be a little coastly but worth the cost to eliminate the hassel of making it yourself for a one-off project.

The hose that came with the vacuum was not original to the vacuum. It was just a short hose that fit the vacuum. The end to the cyclone is just a 1 inch PVC coupler used to join 2 ends together. One end fit the hose perfectly. The other end of the coupler needed to be filed down just a bit to fit into the cyclone.

I just bought an Oreck carry-around vac w/attachments on eBay for $35. They are small and have very good suction. I'm going to try to muffle it in some way. @Rockytime is doing the same thing. Lots of experimenting going on. I think between us we'll come up with an acceptable system.

I tried this and was overruled. RJF

Take a look at MetroVac 500. It's the same thing as the one Seyco uses with their dust collection set up.. I have the Seyco set up but I also built a set-up of my own using a Metro vac that I picked up off eBay as a "new open box unit" I figured for $35 shipped it was worth trying. I also bought a mini cyclone dust separator similar to what Seycos system is but about half or less the size.. Seyco system https://www.seyco.com/dv-10a-cyclonic-action-scroll-saw-dust-collector/ Metro vac Ebay search. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=metrovac+500&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=metrovac

Not a huge fan of their music, but a big fan of the portrait.

I have no idea who they are or were as the case may be. Having stated that; BEAUTIFUL WORK on the plague!

Yes, very nice indeed!

This is my first compound cutting project. Made of aspen, walnut and an accent of cherry on the board. The drawer slides all the way through allowing access on both sides.