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This project had two goals. First it was an experiment in presentation. The 10” x 16” cut panel is 1/8” BB Ply painted flat black after cutting. The backer is a 12” x 17” 1/4” BB Ply that was left natural except for the colored pattern that was hand painted with Acrylic Craft Paints. The glued up panel was further finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The oversized backer creates a matted effect when placed in the Frame. The custom frame is made from Red Oak that was enhanced with Minwax Red Oak stain and finished with multiple coats of Wipe-On-Poly. This rather simple pattern was a free decal stencil that was found online that I converted to a scroll saw Pattern in Inkscape. I cut the panel in less than two hours with a Pegas #1 MGT R blade. Second, in addition to the presentation experiment my intention was to provide the members a simple pattern for those who might be interested in attempting to make a colored fretwork piece. A very inexpensive set with a variety of color Acrylic Craft Paints and a few cheap artist brushes will get you started. I know we have some budding artist, often the Scroller’s spouse, out there who has already added color to some pieces. For those, this would be a piece of cake. I’ll be uploading both the pattern and the original color version to the Pattern Library for those who may wish to give it a try. Just a little hint for those who haven’t done any painting like this is: You start with light tints and build up in layers to the finished darker tints letting each layer to dry completely before adding the next layer. This makes shading effects easier to accomplish. And JFYI, I don’t pretend to be an expert or even an artist as I’m actually just experimenting, practicing and learning myself. Here is the original artwork:

Fresh off the saw. Stack cut this one, really happy with the results. Pegas #3MG blades.

Bit of scrolling bit of CNC work and a bit of lasering I can multi task. Roly

Last bowl I made almost a year ago. It is time for new one. Bowl pattern Video of making bowl

Haven't posted for awhile but that doesn't mean I haven't been on the saw. Here are some recent ones that I have done. The first two are Jim Blume patterns on birch burl slabs. The last three are H Botas patterns. Warrior is on birch and the other two are black poplar. Jeff

Thanks Kevin, Your appraisal makes me feel better, as in, it is the machine and not me (I'm not going crazy). The person I bought it from said he was the original owner and that he never did any maintenance on it, so I assume it was assembled correctly at the factory. I am leaning in the same direction as your assessment of the cause being one (or both) of the bearings/sleeves in the connecting rod that attaches to the vertical rocker assembly. When it gets past the 4 1/2 speed setting on the dial, it sounds to me like it smooths out all the way up to full speed. I did - after I made the sound recording - readjusted the tension rod back, reversing the 4 counter clockwise turns I originally put on it, and giving it two more turns in the other direction (clockwise). Tried it again and got the same knocking sound. I'm going to order a connecting rod, with bearings and sleeves for it, and install it using the method Bob Brokaw did on his video. Even if that doesn't eliminate the knocking, at least I'll know those items are new.

Hey Ken, You sure post lots of pictures. I love that. Wish more people would break out their cell phones and use the camera feature. Everyone loves pictures.

A Couple Side Notes.... Speckling is what Sheetrock people use to fill or cover holes. This speckling I did was the way a Good Friend did his projects to cove the little hole left by the drill bit. The Speckling is Sand-able and really sands smooth. Then the paint over it and can't tell the hole was there. The Titan plaque had a bit of a problem which left me having to fix it to work.............Danny :+}

I first learned of this pattern when Richard (heppnerguy) showed us his creation from the pattern here last October. He cut his in an evening but it took me much longer (17 hours). I cut this from 3 centimetre thick Splated maple mostly using #0 Pegas spiral blades (and breaking about 40 of them in the process). In a few places, I utilized Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #3 and #1 blades (without any breakage) I found that I could not cut all the lines in Fiona's pattern without ruining the integrity of the work. The photo below shows a segment of the pattern with lines marked in red in places where I decided to leave a gap: Once cut and sealed, I backed the piece with pale blue glass: It is now hanging in the window of our main bathroom so that the Blue Tits can greet us every morning much like they did back in our typical English garden. Great Memories! My family and I have have fond memories of these little birds when we lived in England throughout most of the 1970s. They did, indeed spend a lot of their time in Hawthorn shrubs in our front garden. Here is a photo of the real thing: Fiona has captured both the birds and the shrubs perfectly in her pattern. I

A big THANK YOU is going out to Bernd (munzieb) who was willing to share the Hummingbird pattern for the lamp body side panels. My version is also made from solid Oak. Body Panels cut from 1/4x5 1/2 x 48 and the top and base was cut from 1/2x5 1/2x24. The Base and top are my design. The lamp body is 4 1/2" square by 10" tall. The base is 5 1/2" square x 1 1/2" tall. The Top is 5 1/2 Square x 1/2" tall. The vertical edges of the body panels were beveled to 45 degrees on my bench belt sander. All the mitering and chamfering done for the base and top was done on the table saw. I use a frame strap clamp during glue up to insure the base was square. I use the scrolll saw to cut the cutouts in at the bottom of the base sides before glue up. Like Bernd, I used amber plexiglass. However, I made the plexiglass more translucent by applying velum with sparay adhesive to the inside face. The electrical components consist of a 6 ft lamp cord with an inline rocker switch, short lamp pipe nipple, candlelabra socket and LED bulb. The top is loose fit for access to the bulb. I stack cut the four sides and used Pegas #3 MGT R Blades. Cutting the 1" thick stack was slow but not too difficult. After assembly and sanding, the lamp and the loose top was finished with many coats of clear gloss spray Lacquer. Made this lamp for my lady as she loves Hummingbirds. That makes two Hummingbird plaques, one Hummingbird framed piece and now this Hummingbird lamp . She is Happy.

The pictures didnt come out to well but these are the compound santas'mrssantas and a witch i still have to paintthe belt buckles on the santas . I used sawdust and glue to make the hair and fur on the santas. A friend gave me some expoy resin to try working with. Now i have used it years ago on flat projects could some one tell me the best way to put it on these compound cuts? when there all finished i'll repost new pictures. only 2 of the santas are the compound cut, the rest i made out of the scraps from the compound cut, these will be used as magnets and perhaps as over lays on other projects. some might be put on crafts made from other meduems.... or turned into pins. I still have some other compound cut pieces to paint and im working on painting a fret work peice to. and i still have the layered snake to paint and put together.

I've not done much for gluing up boards in the past to get a larger chunk of wood other than just small cutting boards etc.. for the most part I've always used plywood for portraits. I had to put my Grate Dane / Lab mix down yesterday and was thinking about making a large portrait of him. Rather than cut on the scroll saw I want to try to carve a picture on my CNC.. This will be most likely a late spring or summer project as I got a lot of bookkeeping etc. to do and I have to figure out how to make a design file / pattern for the CNC.. Not being in too many groups for the CNC I'm not sure if there is nice folks that will do designs like there is for our wonderful pattern designers here in the scroll saw village. I'm not one that likes to be that new person on a forum and make my first post be a request either, LOL I've been considering buying the laser attachment for my CNC and I may do just that so that designing a carve file wouldn't need to be done.. just do similar to my engraving of the ornament on a much larger scale.. IF I do buy the laser engraving attachment for the CNC then I would probably just use plywood.. Carving looks better on solid wood is the reason I thought I'd need to do a glue up.. Anyway I was thinking of making this portrait about 2 x 2 foot.. from solid wood {probably either Poplar or Cherry ). Is it best to glue up several 3-5 inch slats or just a couple wide boards together work okay? I'm thinking the slats might work better from being prone to cup / warp ? He was 14 years old and we all knew he wouldn't be with us a lot longer so this year I made all the kids a ornament on my laser, I posted this in the other woodworking section here on the village last fall. But here is a picture of him and the laser engraved ornament I made for the kids.

After the topic a month or so back I purchased a pin nailer to nail my stacks together rather than just taping around the edges. I bought the Banks brand from HF as it was on sale plus my 25% coupon. I've had the thing for several weeks but have not done any stack cutting until yesterday. I gotta say I love this thing, late last fall I was running low on my BBply and rather than taking a day off of shop time as I was really busy I just ordered BBply from Cherokee. I ordered the 12 x 12 squares which work out real well as my shelf liner is 12" so rolling out the liner to the top layer and nail the other ones and place the pattern on it works really well. 12 x 12 is someone large for blank as I typically always did either 7x7 or 8x8 depending on the ornament patterns at hand.. typically 4-6 ornament stacks cut from those smaller blanks. In the past I was placing the tape around the edge of the 12 x 12 and then placing the patterns out.. then scroll sawing out the blanks to a smaller size around the ornaments and retaping the cut edges.. Now I cut the blank smaller and just shoot a couple nails around those edges.. I've always done either a stack of 4 or 5.. I like 5 but it slows the work down just enough that I really like 4 better. The 1/2" pins held well through the stack of 4 and didn't protrude through the bottom of the stack at all.. Cut a few stacks yesterday and it went real well.. So anyway, just thought I'd say thanks to all those topics about the pin nailers for stack cutting.. It is a time saver and it also holds the stack tighter together.. in some cases on larger projects the center would be bouncing around a bit.. this sure will help in those cases.. Pin nailer I bought https://www.harborfreight.com/23-gauge-pin-nailer-64143.html?_br_psugg_q=pin+nailer

Not sure where are are located and what kind of temperatures you have.. if it's quite cold out my old DW would do this until it warmed up good.. sometimes just running it erratically with no load on it for a couple minutes would do the trick.. run fine until I come in the house to warm up or eat.. go back out.. same thing until it run for a few minutes.. even times it wouldn't even start at all without pushing on the blade chuck to get it a push start so to speak.. A few times I'd take a space heater and place it where the heat could warm the motor up a few minutes and it work as normal turning on by itself.. Summer time run great.. didn't like the cold I guess.. course neither do I but... LOL Anyway, just a thought too.. Could be possible to have the circuit board going bad. I know it happens but most times the motor itself is not the issue..

Kevin, Yes, it does. Almost makes me want to put on ear plugs and ignore it.

Well put Frank. I could say very much the same for myself.

Sorry for your loose Kevin. I have done my share of cabinet work. Glue-ups with narrow boards are less likely to warp or twist. There is no magic width per board and it is ok to use various widths. Make sure you alternate the end grain one up and one down. Before glues edges all need to be run through a jointer properly. Also wood should run all in the same direction. Most boards will have a rough and smooth direction. Kinda like a scroll saw blade. You want to feed the smooth end into the planner. This will minimize tearout.

Just for the fun of it. Using shop plywood scraps up. Woodburned edges burning pen. Some have slightly torched edges. Longest is 9" long. Pattern by neighborhood Trees.

Sounds like a broken Harley Davidson LOL.. Does the saw seem to run smooth even though is sounds terrible? Is everything clear of the rocker arms at the front of the saw? I've seen where the lower arm guard thing got bent once and sounded similar to that.. Also had a saw where the Bellows rotted away and broke.. which made a similar sound.. Is the Bellows hooked up and fasten to the rocker arm correct? I know you mention it sounds like it's coming from the back of the saw but sound can travel through the saw in odd ways.. My gut tells me its the rocker assembly at the back of the saw.. either the connecting rod deal that connects to the motor or that long arm that it connects to that spans between the upper and lower arm rods.. Also wonder since you say the bearings and sleeves looked good etc.. I question if it's put together correctly.. I know you say you took lots of pictures etc along the way and maybe you have it put together the way you took it apart.. But what's the odds that maybe the previous owner took it apart and put it together wrong.. Might want to study rebuild videos that Bob put up and compare how it's put together.. Just some thoughts.. It's definitely a issue..

Gorgeous. I really must try those mg blades.

23 gauge pin nails bend pretty easily, so it may well be safe to shoot them through the stack, backed up against steel. Personally, I wouldn't choose to do that, because Murphy's Law dictates that it would jam my pin nailer. I would probably be inclined to shoot them into another piece of soft wood or foam board or something. If they don't protrude too much, then separating the stack from the backer wouldn't be a problem. Pin nails don't have all that much holding power. Then I would clip & file them smooth, so as not to scratch my scroll saw table.

Beautiful cutting

fantastic job

very nice job

I've used a nailer for stack cutting for years and have always had good success with it. The one thing I do is use a piece of steel plate underneath when I shoot the nails - this way it stops the brads/pins from going through the bottom of the stack and damaging the saw table. Sometimes I have to use a nail just a bit longer than the thickness of the stack and this really helps.

I don't consider myself an artist because I have to rely on others to "CREATE" the art. My whole working career involved drawing (drafting actualy) but always needed a straightedge and compass. I can't draw freehand, in any form, for a lick. I'm quite decent at doing the mechanical work such as doing the cutting, or making frames, etc. and, I'm even learning to work a little in Inkscape to modify others work when needed. The painting I'm experimenting with is more like "Painting by Numbers" as all I do is fill in the blanks. Learning to mix colors is more logic than art. I'm very greatful that my scroll work is often touted as being nice and sometimes the end result considered "art", so I do not consider mysel an Artist but rather I do consider myself a fairly skilled, but still learning, "craftsman". Thanks

I use pin nailer when I stack cut. Works excellent for me.. Here is a few shots

Beautiful, Frank! You may not consider yourself and artist but, I think this project could definitely be call art! Great job! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Very pretty project, Frank! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Vibration and noises can go hand in hand and the noise can travel through the saw and come out at odd places.. My Hawk has adjustable feet on the legs.. if I bump the saw hard enough to move it slightly it'll either vibrate or make a sound that isn't normally there.. Sometimes I have to sort of kick outward at the stand legs to get it planted to the floor firmly.. Doesn't take much to throw it off balance.. My EX-21 is the same way.. and there is no visible wobble to the stand or anything like that.. it seems like it's solid to the floor when in fact it's not.. I think I mentioned this already and it was said you had it solid on the floor.. If factory stand the DW's have a three legged stand and there isn't as much of an issue with this.. that said though.. just for kicks.. run the saw and sort of tap the legs to just slightly move the saw and see if there is any different sound from the saw or if it makes any difference..

Very nicely done Frank. I've used 2/0 and 3/0 spirals. I love the degree of detail you can cut with a 3/0, but they are ever so fragile that I tend to save them for the most delicate of cuts.

A very nice technique.

Rocky time , may I suggest you put a screen on the funnel or a trap in line, for those small pieces you Don't want sucked up.

Here's a link to the manual download. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/556654/Dewalt-Dw788.html#product-DW788

I just wanted to thank everyone for the condolences.. It sure is hard to loose those fur babies.. He sure did give the family a lot of enjoyment and I think we gave just as much back to him since he was a rescue dog and was on his last day at the pound when we took him in.. sure was a trouble maker of dog at first but we worked it all out and gave him lots of love.. in short time he understood what his boundaries were.. though he pushed those boundaries every day throughout all these years to keep us all on our toes.. LOL He had three different homes before we gave him his forever home and he just had a mix of rules he didn't understand. I got him when he was 9 months ( terrible teens maybe LOL ).. He'll be greatly missed for sure..

So sorry about you dog. I lost my lab a year ago and I still miss him every day. I walked to the lake today, like we used to every day, my heart just sinks missing his company. I like to use narrower pieces. I'm making an end table now. Finished top with be 18 x 24. My stock is wide enough that I could do the 18 in two pieces, no way. I'll probably use 5 or 6 pcs. Ah but then comes the next question should you alter the grain up and down? Certainly many people will tell you that, but I have these wonderful wide boards it would be very nice to match the grain and make it appear to be made from two boards. But most important is to joint the edges so the glue-up is strong. I generally will only glue-up two boards (hey I'm retired) at a time so I can control cupping at the joint with a couple of cauls. Again you have my sympathy for your loss.

They are beautiful, where did you get the slabs, RJ

Did you see the mention on scroll saws.com of relieving the area of the aluminum cover over the tension rod? I had to do that to get mine quieted down. I had turned the rod 4 to 6 turns but to no avail. So I put it back to where I started and moved ahead with filing down that area of the cover that was in line with the rod. I had to take quite a bit off off it but that solved it. If I recall I did still turn the rod 2 turns to shorten it. I also gave the sliding wedge a heavy layer of grease. You are very close to having a sweet saw.

those are great I have seen most of those patterns finished but those slabs really make the difference great work IKE

Nice job! Roll Tide. Pay no attention to the Vol fan. @meflick

They look great Roly. Really like Beer, Beer, Beer, Floor. Marg

These are 2 more that I was able t cut this month. Charles Dearing pattern Zombie Santa and Helder Botas Rose from the movie Titanic. The zombie santa I am very disappointed in because the BB ply started to separate while taking the pattern off . I was using painters tape on that one but Rose was a little different, I used press n seal instead of tape.

I like,em.They look Fantastic!!.Multi tasking, has what put me down since before Christmas,

Outstanding work! To keep BB from surface chipping / delaminating, I sand the blank lightly with 180G, wipe with water, sand lightly with 320 grit to remove raised grain, spray or wipe on shellac, sand back with 400 grit. The shellac bonds the surface fibers and sands glass smooth. It works on drawers and boxes. I have not tried it on scroll saw patterns.

Yep, me too. It's so much easier that way. !

The reason I do not use tape... I glue directly to the wood, take the pattern off with MS. Nice cuttings.

Cuttings look good. I'm not a Zombie fan but I like Rose. Hard to see any delamination faults in the pic. One trick is to make sure you sand the cut panel well down to a least 200 grit but I go down to 600 grit before attaching your tape for the pattern. Also, when removing the pattern make sure you peel the tape in the direction of the wood grain, NOT AGAINST IT, in order to minimize lift up. And, Duck brand shelf liner available from walmart is a better than painters tape, removes easier and a lot cheaper. Just my personal comment and opinion. Your pics would look better if you placed your cut panels on a solid dark background (if not the planned backer) and shoot them as perpendicular to the panel as possible.

I have glued together many scraps into blocks and made band saw boxes with them,

yeah thanks guys but new switch new brushes grease everything still no go everything checks out ok except for actually running right. and to clear up the confusion push down on the blade clamps n it will runn irreguarly not push down on the switch

Great idea (sound recording) and thank you for it - I am attaching the MP3 file will upload (fingers crossed) for all to listen to. The recording is a little over a minute long and starts at the lowest speed setting and goes to the highest and then back down again. And I appreciate your thought that I might be hearing a perfectly normal sound and just don't know it. I wish that were the case, but I don't think so. But as my mother used to say: "You are never so right that you can't be wrong". DW788 Sound.mp3