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Fresh off the saw. Stack cut this one, really happy with the results. Pegas #3MG blades.

I have seen this cut before but cannot remember where. Wish I knew the designer so I could give credit. The eagle is 3/8" cherry, the base is plain old pine. Both dipped in 50/50 BLO. Cut with #1 PMG.

Anyone tried on of these 3D puzzles? I enjoy the few flat type puzzles I have cut.... may have to give this a try one day. Also check out his scroll saw.... Guess you don't need fancy.

Finished this a few days ago .. was cutting with a pegas 2/0 MGT - but - it took 5 or 6 broken blades on this 3/4+" Walnut Burl before I thought "HEY DUMMIE! Use a bigger blade, there are NO little itty bitty cuts." Only broke one blade after that. I love that #1 FD. The stand is shaped like a GUITAR PICK. In Maple. Maple and walnut just look so darned good together. I used Danish Oil (natural) on the thing - then - Spar Urethane - 3 coats seperated with a bit of sanding to get that glossy glass like finish on the base. Clock from KMMKrafts .. of course. Next project ? I think Lab Head shot .. on a heart shapped back ground .. hmmmm . . need to find a good pattern of a Labs Head ..

Our club is invited to make toys for Lubbock Christian University each year for their Christmas event for children. Also, I make an item they use as a door prize. This year a cedar box with their theme, this year, which is "Charley brown Christmas". Image on the 10"x7" box is inlaid using the "double bevel inlay" method using my scroll saw. Reindeer are 3D cuts on scroll saw.

I used a #7scroll reverse in walnut for most of the ones I've done! make sure your blade is running true as some, or a lot of cuts are thin and if the blade is not almost perfectly running parallel to the table the bottoms of the thin cuts end up destroy. it will leave the wood slivers in a V shape.

This project had two goals. First it was an experiment in presentation. The 10” x 16” cut panel is 1/8” BB Ply painted flat black after cutting. The backer is a 12” x 17” 1/4” BB Ply that was left natural except for the colored pattern that was hand painted with Acrylic Craft Paints. The glued up panel was further finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The oversized backer creates a matted effect when placed in the Frame. The custom frame is made from Red Oak that was enhanced with Minwax Red Oak stain and finished with multiple coats of Wipe-On-Poly. This rather simple pattern was a free decal stencil that was found online that I converted to a scroll saw Pattern in Inkscape. I cut the panel in less than two hours with a Pegas #1 MGT R blade. Second, in addition to the presentation experiment my intention was to provide the members a simple pattern for those who might be interested in attempting to make a colored fretwork piece. A very inexpensive set with a variety of color Acrylic Craft Paints and a few cheap artist brushes will get you started. I know we have some budding artist, often the Scroller’s spouse, out there who has already added color to some pieces. For those, this would be a piece of cake. I’ll be uploading both the pattern and the original color version to the Pattern Library for those who may wish to give it a try. Just a little hint for those who haven’t done any painting like this is: You start with light tints and build up in layers to the finished darker tints letting each layer to dry completely before adding the next layer. This makes shading effects easier to accomplish. And JFYI, I don’t pretend to be an expert or even an artist as I’m actually just experimenting, practicing and learning myself. Here is the original artwork:

Sorry to hear abut your loss. Losing a fur baby hurts really bad and leaves quite a hole in your heart. Gluing up thinner panels can be a challenge if your not careful. Make sure before you start you have all the clamps laid out and handy. I do this a lot as making furniture and larger panels for other work. I have a system that works well for me. Machine the wood to close to its final thickness. When laying the boards out move them around to get the best grain blending look you can. Make sure the sides are flat and parallel to the faces. ( Very Important ) Apply glue to both sides to be joined. When putting them together rub them together, this helps spread the glue more evenly. Start lightly clamping from the center of the panel and work your way to the outside. Repeat until all the clamps a fairly tight and even. Take a couple board with packing tape on one side and put them across the panel's width. Lightly clamp these up, will help keep the boards flat. Do the final tightening on the clamps watching the squeeze out. You want some but not enough tp push most of the glue out. Tamp a damp cloth and clean up as much glue as you can . Let the assembly dry over night before removing the clamps. Clean up the rest of the glue with a cabinet scraper or by sanding. If the panel is to be framed or whatever and needs to thinned just a bit. Cut shallow rabbits around the perimeter to fit. Doing the rabbits gives yo much cleaner edges and joints. I know this is a lot of work, and very well worth the extra effort as the end product is much cleaner in appearance with stronger joints.

Is the difference between artist and craftsman the ability to draw freehand? I have been paid to do drafting with templates and writing tools that scale lettering. Iso drawing also require a 3d thinking. Some of my sketches was just as good as iso drawings. The artists were using air brushes and creating marketing pictures. Is artistry learning and trying new things? New ideas to the industry or just new to the individual might generate the term artist or innovator. Is artists just doing non-traditional crafts? These might be good discussion questions. Les, to me your flowers have many aspects of artistry. Abstract outlines of flowers, layers of wood and layers of paint. A interesting method of creating a border. The craftsmenship of scrolling allowed you to envision and try this experiment. I applaud you for being innovative, artsy and crafty. Me. Mark

My best storage place is

Hi John. This question comes up frequently so you'll hear the best of what works from each of us. I always use wood glue if the backer is wood or some form of a wood product. If the project if framed I just spread a few drops of glue very thin to the project, just enough to hold it in place. No need for more than that. For larger, unframed projects I do the same thing only add a few extra drops in critical places. I uses weights or clamps to hold the backer in place until the glue dries. With practice you'll figure out what the right amount of glue is. I go very light with it. Never had an issue. I did this owl in 2013. It's about 3' tall and 1' wide, with picture matting material, glued with Titebond II. It's still hanging today.

Great job Les. I was looking at that pattern also. I think I will look a little longer. LOL.

Very very nice Les!

You certainly did a great job on that..

Rocky, that’s beautiful, that pattern is on my to do list, RJ

Majestic. Fabulous work Les. Marg

Jean Louise 'Scout' Finch from what may be my favorite book and movie, "To Kill A Mockingbird." This is my favorite moment in the book and movie where she realizes Arthur "Boo" Radley, her reclusive neighbor who the children in the neighborhood greatly fear is the one who saved her and her brother from being murdered. 1/2" Red Oak

The pictures didnt come out to well but these are the compound santas'mrssantas and a witch i still have to paintthe belt buckles on the santas . I used sawdust and glue to make the hair and fur on the santas. A friend gave me some expoy resin to try working with. Now i have used it years ago on flat projects could some one tell me the best way to put it on these compound cuts? when there all finished i'll repost new pictures. only 2 of the santas are the compound cut, the rest i made out of the scraps from the compound cut, these will be used as magnets and perhaps as over lays on other projects. some might be put on crafts made from other meduems.... or turned into pins. I still have some other compound cut pieces to paint and im working on painting a fret work peice to. and i still have the layered snake to paint and put together.

Very cool looking!

LOL I did try pushing the wood from an angle, but it just felt....off. And that arm got tired pretty quickly. So, yeah....laziness kicked in and I moved my chair.

Nice cutting! I hope you will post the finished one.. It going to be a real eye catcher... Sorry but I had to smile at your comment about having to move over a little towards the side of your saw to cut a straight line... really? You can't just turn the wood a little to compensate for the drift..? So when you cut a corner or circle, do you have to walk around your saw as you cut it??? I know what you mean, but, got a picture of it in my mind and it made me chuckle a little...

I tried the 3M Super 90 Permanent Adhesive. Spray it on the back of the cutting then join the pieces together. Was quite a pain to work with, left strings over the holes and was a real pain to clean up. I used E-6000 quite a bit. Then one hot summer day, I found it would soften and seep out leaving a bit of a mess to clean up. Since I have use Titebond for most of it. If using a felt back ground I put a little extra on carefully. Have not had an issue with that. I don't think there is one "best" answer to this. Everything has it's positives and negatives.

NOPE! And BTW, I'm Frank, not Les! IMHO, an Artist has the ability to CREATE the Art in the first place in whatever form. A Craftsman can mechanicaly COPY, PRODUCE and/or INTERPRET that Art in other mediums. If it is duplicaed in the same medium, and an exact copy, it is called forgery. As an example, an Artist paints a wonderful painting. A craftsman can make a beautiful lithograph of that painting. Both result in Art but the Craftsman is not the Artist. Let me say that these are only MY definitions and my belief what the difference between the two is. PS: I guess my ability to draw (as in drafting) could be loosely mean I could be considered an Artist as what I created was an original product. However, even then my work was not a creative endevor as my drafting skills was just replicating physical objects and interpretations of various data inputs on paper. Much like how Inkscape can, using the Trace Bitmap command can reproduce a photo file, computers do many othe drafting work today. I don't consider a computer an Artist.

I've never had a problem with my nailer jamming. Like you said - using a nail that is just longer than the stack is thick I think is the key so that it avoids any jamming issues. I'm using a cheapo brad nailer too, so I don't think that it would be a problem with any kind of nicer equipment either. The steel usually stops the nail flush with the bottom and if any length is left, it just sticks out the top of the stack slightly. Pressing the stack down firmly onto the plate when nailing it is key as well.

Beautiful. Love what you did. Marg

What a beautiful piece. You did an awesome job, well done. Marg

Kevin, Yeah, the bolt on the connecting rod is double nutted so no worries there on my unit. The problem reminds me of trying to find a chirping cricket in the house. It's gotta be in there somewhere!

Haven't posted for awhile but that doesn't mean I haven't been on the saw. Here are some recent ones that I have done. The first two are Jim Blume patterns on birch burl slabs. The last three are H Botas patterns. Warrior is on birch and the other two are black poplar. Jeff

I have never had any split and only one develop small cracks. They have been air dried in an outdoor shed for several years. No backers. Guess I have just been lucky. Jeff

But another one and you will have some spare parts LOL!

Fuse,switch ,circuit board or motor, check in that order

I am not a new user but I am new to this forum. Today there is a mega wealth of information available, and many years ago there was a wealth of information available online as well. Still upon making my first work to enter in a contest I clearly lost. Upon looking closely at winners and losers in the case at the state fair, I concluded it was two things in my work that was the weakest points. The finish out process of sand and file, and actual finishing. So clearly one can cut a beautiful piece of work and ruin it with failure to remove burrs and other irregular type cuts. So for me, what I wish I had known, and it is without doubt, I wish I had known much more about finishing off the work. I took a beautiful piece of work and ruined it by poorly finishing it out. Now I take as much time in finishing out a project as I do cutting it. I keep both my old work and my newest entry. A reminder of what I failed to do, and also of what I can do, with the help of knowledge from other users. I will post only one file. My loosing piece not. My winner last year at the IL state fair, first place. I show this to help others to know that your work is only as good as its weakest point. Sometimes it is equipment. Sometimes it is the user. I was the weakest point. I am a member on another forum as well, but I have found you can always learn. I first will study Inkscape on this forum to begin making my own patterns. So an advanced thanks to Scrollsawvillage for doing those tutorials. Note: You don't need a 1000 dollar Jet to do a 1000 dollar job. The sides of this box was done with a Delta. When my wife saw that she let me by a Jet with which I did the lid [much more intricate]. I concluded that with patience I could have easily finished this out on a Delta or even a Porter cable. So the saw is not always the key. It is patience. I look forward to talking to others here. And wish all happy scrolling.

Much less tearout on the bottom piece! Flying Dutchman makes some as well. The big difference is that on the Pegas, the bottom 1/4 of the blade has the teeth reversed, whereas the FD blades have every other tooth reversed. I like the FD concept, as once it gets dull I can flip the blade over and use what was the top portion. It seemed to me, though, that the FD blades didn't cut a straight line....I mean, they'd cut straight, but only if you were sitting slightly off the saw's centerline. Once you figure out which direction it wanted to pull, it wasn't a big deal but when I sit in front of my saw I'm typically in line with the arm and disliked having to remember to move over. Also, it seemed to me that the FD reverse blades dulled a lot faster than the Pegas. But that's just my opinion....that and $5.75 will get you a small cup of coffee somewhere. LOL

There are some wonderful patterns in the pattern library. I am really keen to do the Owl Eye pattern, but I do not know if a spiral or flat blade would be best. I am interested to learn what other scrollers would use and why. Could some of ya'll chime in with some feedback? Thanks to Mr. Botas and all the scrollers who frequent this forum. Gig em Aggies.

I often use both flat and spiral blades on fretwork. It depends on the space that’s being cut. When it is smooth or pointy, flat. Where it’s feathers or simply doesn’t matter, spiral.

I have dused a pinnailer for the last 18 nmonths and I love it. I bought mine to fasten some wood work in my home then decided ot try it on scrolling. thhe nice thing about it is when doing fretwork if there is any open spots you nail it and it gives you a one piece of ply feeling. IKE

https://www.facebook.com/HillsideLumber/videos/1044888066030026

I have two legal size two drawer filing cabinets under my work bench. Also for the really small pieces i use the big plastic jugs pretzels or cheese balls come in.

Very nice Les.. Excellent!

Fantastic work. I'm overly partial to Eagles and this one is wonderful. I'd make one to be proudly displayed in my office...if I had an office. Now my overcrouded computer desk in the corner of my livingroom only has room for my "Grumpy Old Man" Sign .

Thank you. Being aware of this I cut the outside leaving the narrow connection for the last.

One hole at a time!

How do you professionals do this? It would take me 60 hours to do that. That presentation is great. It can be givin out as a trophy.

Beautiful rendition of a Steve Good pattern Les! I have cut two of them. Be warned that it is extremely fragile, especially where the upright of the stand meets the body. DAHIKT.

One has to be extremely strong to bend it like that...

I have had a Craftsman, DeWalt, Excalibur, Seyco and a Hegner.... If I knew when I started, what I know now.... I would have bought the Hegner first and skipped the rest,,, and actually spent less money.. I really think the same would apply to the Hawk.... But no one knows that beginning.... and in the beginning no one knows how much they will enjoy scrolling and stick with it...

That's me exactly. I can'r bear to throw anything away. I have mine on carts and boxes full of little cutoffs all over the place. I'm 81. Can you imagine my hoard? Yikes! I thought I was just a hobbyist and part time woodworker. I can't seem to stop buying wood. I didn't realize I was also a wood collector.

Saw is getting power. It does not start up when turned on but if u push the head up or down with alil force it starts up but runs irregular like its starving for power or being put in a bind somewhere but motor and arms move fine when machine is off can anybody help me with this. I have be up ad running soon

I used a #7scroll reverse in walnut for most of the ones I've done! make sure your blade is running true as some, or a lot of cuts are thin and if the blade is not almost perfectly running parallel to the table the bottoms of the thin cuts end up destroy. it will leave the wood slivers in a V shape.

Jerry I live in the Cincinnati ares there is no a Dewalt repair shop in this area or the Dayton area and I was told that the one in Columbus is or has been closed and the nearest one is in PA. When I took my delta in for repairs it was under their protection plan so I Thought I would just take it dto them to be repaired, well that was a big mistake. IKE