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I discovered this pattern when another scroller (Lasha Barbosa) posted her fantastic work on a Facebook group in early November. I contacted her to find the pattern (which is in a book available on Amazon) and decided to have a go at cutting it out.. What a surprise when it actually turned out. Sharon loves them so I ended up stack cutting a bunch for this years Christmas. It was a big hit. I used quarter inch Red Oak purchased from Lowes and upscaled the pattern a bit. I am pretty sure I used FD PSR#3 at first but then I switched to FD UR#3 later. I oiled it with Old English. Sharon wanted to hang it below another ornament so I cut out a star (from Steve Good) and connected them with fishing line. She added the ribbon.

Have you ever gone fishing? My new pattern and project - Fishing shadowbox. I wanted to make a gift for my friend, who discovered this hobby for me. I hope this will not affect the making of patterns Video of making Fishing shadowbox Fishing pattern

I cut this Steve Good pattern way back when I was starting out in 2011. This was a very challenging thing for me as a newb. It turned out pretty good but the flower stem was too fragile and eventually boke. I used 1/2" BB. Probably would have looked much better in a hardwood.

When I got the Hegner this Christmas, this was the first thing I tried to cut out. It is a classic Steve Good pattern. Sharon loves hummingbirds so I figured I couldn't go wrong with this one.. After all she approved the Hegner purchase (Lol!). I can't remember if I used the FD Penguin Silver Reverse or the FD Ultra Reverse.. In any case I am sure it was a #3.. Sharon suggested that I trim the backing with gold so I got that done this morning after taping it last night. All in all I am very pleased with how it turned out. The wood is BB 1/4". The stain on the backer is Minwax Dark Walnut. I applied Minwax polyurethane to the fretwork.

Some orders came in out of nowhere from a store full of recipients that got plenty of free name he gave to his new car his wife bought him!from me.hadvsome spots lifted and will glue back.blue bird is the

Another problem i had was i forgot to put the bushing back in one of the bearings. That saw is on the shelve as i needed to scroll now but will get to it someday.

Anyone tried on of these 3D puzzles? I enjoy the few flat type puzzles I have cut.... may have to give this a try one day. Also check out his scroll saw.... Guess you don't need fancy.

Jean Louise 'Scout' Finch from what may be my favorite book and movie, "To Kill A Mockingbird." This is my favorite moment in the book and movie where she realizes Arthur "Boo" Radley, her reclusive neighbor who the children in the neighborhood greatly fear is the one who saved her and her brother from being murdered. 1/2" Red Oak

A big THANK YOU is going out to Bernd (munzieb) who was willing to share the Hummingbird pattern for the lamp body side panels. My version is also made from solid Oak. Body Panels cut from 1/4x5 1/2 x 48 and the top and base was cut from 1/2x5 1/2x24. The Base and top are my design. The lamp body is 4 1/2" square by 10" tall. The base is 5 1/2" square x 1 1/2" tall. The Top is 5 1/2 Square x 1/2" tall. The vertical edges of the body panels were beveled to 45 degrees on my bench belt sander. All the mitering and chamfering done for the base and top was done on the table saw. I use a frame strap clamp during glue up to insure the base was square. I use the scrolll saw to cut the cutouts in at the bottom of the base sides before glue up. Like Bernd, I used amber plexiglass. However, I made the plexiglass more translucent by applying velum with sparay adhesive to the inside face. The electrical components consist of a 6 ft lamp cord with an inline rocker switch, short lamp pipe nipple, candlelabra socket and LED bulb. The top is loose fit for access to the bulb. I stack cut the four sides and used Pegas #3 MGT R Blades. Cutting the 1" thick stack was slow but not too difficult. After assembly and sanding, the lamp and the loose top was finished with many coats of clear gloss spray Lacquer. Made this lamp for my lady as she loves Hummingbirds. That makes two Hummingbird plaques, one Hummingbird framed piece and now this Hummingbird lamp . She is Happy.

I forgot to insert a sleeve once and you're right. Noisy!

Greetings from sunny Southern Arizona! I am new to the SSV. I wasn't aware that it existed until just last month. A little about me, I retired from the Army in 1993 (where I worked as a "96H" crew member in the OV1 Mohawk) and I retired from Valley Telephone in 2018 (where I worked as a core routing and switching technician for their ISP). My other hobbies that compete for my time are ham radio projects (AA7JC) and endlessly cleaning my garage. I am interested in building balsa R/C planes but I am at the early stages of getting anything in the air. About ten or more years ago, I stumbled on Steve Good's treasure trove on scrolling and the bug hit (thanks Steve!) so I bought a Dewalt and what a surprise when I discovered that scroll saw blades have a mind of their own. I remember trying to cut jig saw puzzles the first time and thinking this is great, when I screw up nobody can tell (Lol!) I made a lot of puzzles for a while (with those evil puzzle blades) Back then, I was still working full time plus commuting three hours a day. It was easy to get overwhelmed with life issues so my hobbies were often just a dream on the back burner. Scrolling was one of many a dormant activities but then a few years ago I retired (for the last time) and I walked into the garage and tried to make sense of everything. What I discovered was that I had collected an unrealistic amount of retirement projects. I had shelves of heavy old tube radios waiting for restoration and radio kits waiting to be built. (You can see a few of my radio projects at the QRZ website) One day some friends from church visited and they were intrigued with a simple ornament I had cut on my scroll saw. Fast forward to this year and I got a request to make some gift ornaments for them... Sharon, (my wife) decided she too wanted ornaments.. Lots of them.. So, I dusted off my saw and started struggling. I think I cut like fifty or so and soon they started looking pretty reasonable Lol! Over the last month I got adventurous and bought some oak and walnut and started cranking out some pretty nice stuff for the 2020 Christmas. You can see a few of them that I posted in the bragging rights section of the forum. Sharon surprised me with a vote of confidence when she gave the go ahead to purchase a Hegner one evening and it arrived the day before Christmas (woo hoo!). She wants to have a go at it as well. So that is where I am at. Just another old retired hobbyist struggling with wood.

I'll bet that made a bit of noise if you turned it on before realizing that..

My first disecting a Dewalt was overwhelming to find any play in the moving mechanisms. But miniscule play here and there adds up to big play somewhere. Car axel grease in ALL the bearings cure that going on 5-6 years now of heavy scrolling. It's hard to pull more than 1.5 on the blade tension dial, Usually I'm add 1

I've not done much for gluing up boards in the past to get a larger chunk of wood other than just small cutting boards etc.. for the most part I've always used plywood for portraits. I had to put my Grate Dane / Lab mix down yesterday and was thinking about making a large portrait of him. Rather than cut on the scroll saw I want to try to carve a picture on my CNC.. This will be most likely a late spring or summer project as I got a lot of bookkeeping etc. to do and I have to figure out how to make a design file / pattern for the CNC.. Not being in too many groups for the CNC I'm not sure if there is nice folks that will do designs like there is for our wonderful pattern designers here in the scroll saw village. I'm not one that likes to be that new person on a forum and make my first post be a request either, LOL I've been considering buying the laser attachment for my CNC and I may do just that so that designing a carve file wouldn't need to be done.. just do similar to my engraving of the ornament on a much larger scale.. IF I do buy the laser engraving attachment for the CNC then I would probably just use plywood.. Carving looks better on solid wood is the reason I thought I'd need to do a glue up.. Anyway I was thinking of making this portrait about 2 x 2 foot.. from solid wood {probably either Poplar or Cherry ). Is it best to glue up several 3-5 inch slats or just a couple wide boards together work okay? I'm thinking the slats might work better from being prone to cup / warp ? He was 14 years old and we all knew he wouldn't be with us a lot longer so this year I made all the kids a ornament on my laser, I posted this in the other woodworking section here on the village last fall. But here is a picture of him and the laser engraved ornament I made for the kids.

So Sorry for your loss! What a magnificent animal. An interesting mix. I glue up boards all the time. If they are thick ,3/4, I will biscuit join them. Most of my panels are 1/4 to 1/2. I joint the edges and check for a nice fit with no gaps. I always leave them a bit thicker and then sand them down. For the glue up I use a few bar clamps and a couple of clamps on the edges to keep the panels from bowing up. I use ordinary Tightbond glue. Since I re-saw my thinner panels I try to book match them. If you want pictures I could do a mock up.

I use Titebond II for almost everything. I have a gallon that I have been using out of for more than ten years. I take no special precautions for storage. It is in my garage with a temperature range from 50-90 degrees. I have a gallon because I asked my wife to pick it up a large bottle for me thinking I would get 8 or 16 oz. I didn't know they had gallons in the store. Read this from the Titebond blog. Shelf life is for liability purposes.

great job

very nice work

very nice work, enjoy your new saw

Love the Star and the Bell combo. You did a wonderful cutting. Very pretty.

Lovely.

Sorry about your dog. I have lost a few pets through the years and it's always heartbreaking. They become such a large part of your family and then they are gone much too soon. I have not done much glue up either and I'm in the process of doing one myself as we speak. Nice to read what others do and the tips received. As always, good advice on this forum.

That is lovely. Well done. Marg

It lovely. You and your wife did a great job. Marg

You did great, newbie or not. I think the plywood looks good.

You've done a great job. Very nice.

Great job making the pattern and then cutting it. I also will have to watch the movie.

Very good! t's also one of my favourite books and favourite plays. (I have never seen the movie -thanks for bringing it to my attention, now I will.)

Sure look good and great idea of hanging with the star.

That is very classy and a great gift. Well cut!

Looks real good. I agree with Dan, I am working on a Steve Good pattern called “Barney’s Bullet”. Some of the frets are real close together.

i MADE THAT ONE OUT OF WALNUT AND IT WAS NO TIME BEFORE iT GOT BUSTED, SO PLYWOOD IS THE BEST BET ike

I ditto Dan.

You did a nice job on it Ken. I agree, it would’ve looked nicer in a hardwood. Steve Good creates nice patterns, but sometimes doesn’t realize how fragile some designs will be.

YES. Apply the stain liberally. Let it sit for 15 - 20 min. Wipe off. Let dry. Add another coat the same way if you want it to be even more dark. Repeat as necessary. I use walnut ply project panels I get from Home Depot and stain them with the Minwax Walnut stain. Then the panel is real dark and the contrast is beautiful. The backer you show looks like Luan. IMHO, too grainy and detracts from the cutting. A better choice, if you don't have better material, would be to use BB ply and paint with a very dark brown paint. Would be almost as good as a stained Walnut poanel. Look at my "R and Hummingbirds" I made for Robin:

Nice work Ken!

Wonderful book and movie. Couldn't recommend it highly enough.

Hi Paul, we will see - I ordered the connecting rod and will replace that for starters. I think I've found all the videos and reference material that's on the net and am always looking for more. with any luck, this problem will be solved in a few days.

I've had a long bolt come loose on the main conneting rod .Tightend it up and used lock tight problem fixed . also in the lower front was a broken bolt holding the moving levers .Tight as a drum won't fall out but broken.

I have not followed all of this thread,,, because I no longer own a DeWalt but I will ask/suggest two things... Check youtube if you have not.... That is my first go to repair place.... There are videos on all types of repairs/rebuilds on all types of equipment.... and two, I know there are two, maybe more sites/videos on the DeWalt scroll saw...and I think they are mentioned in this thread.... . If they do not discuss your problem.... have tried to email them and let them listen to your recording.... They may be willing to help.... Having owned a DeWalt scroll saw,,, I know you have a problem.... It does not sound normal,,, at all... but it may and probably is an easy fix...

Larry I wish I had taken a picture when they were stacked up in little mountains ready to get wrapped and packed as presents. Lol! Sharon has hers all packed away now.. I have a snap shot of some that went out though.. They are all Steve Good patterns.

I made this wood storage rack. I think it'd worked really well so far. I've shoved too many smaller pieces in the three shelves on the left and need to thin it out, next week. I store boards vertically from right to left...short 3', med. 4-6', long 6' + . Plenty of room behind for sheet goods. It has casters to move out to clean...RIGHT but I can blow the stuff out from under with a leaf blower! Looking at it empty...I had a thought, amazing. I went to the, cold, shop and checked the size of the bins on the left. When I built this, 2 yrs ago, I hadn't started scrolling yet and had no idea a spot to store 12"x12" pieces of Baltic Birch Plywood would be a necessity. I just measured it and it's a little tight. I could either trim off a 1/8" and lay them flat, or empty the top bin and stand them vertically. I'll do the later in the next couple of days!

I'm actually fairly proficient at hoarding and being a pack rat. I store a lot of wood pieces, sheets and boards. What I do is: Larger than 1/4" Sheets: Stand up in my shed outside. Not temperature controlled 1/8-1/4" BB: I keep inside in the box they came in. NW Florida has extreme weather changes so it's best inside 3/4" Boards: I keep standing up in the garage since I use these now more than anything and need them to be weather adjusted 3/4" Pieces: I keep these in 5 gal buckets by species. Misc. Boards: I have lots of misc boards such as left over trim, pallet breakdowns etc. I built a bunch of lumber rack inserts that I attached to the studs in my shed. I keep them there waiting for me to use. Small misc pieces (not normally used): I have a small area in my shop where I keep Cement forms. I stick them standing up in the forms and pull them out as needed Dowling: All are standing up in a corner in a 5 gal bucket I really like 5 gal buckets as they are easily stack-able in a corner once they fill up. I label them and when I need a piece of wood, I can just grab the bucket I need and take out what I need I'm still fine tuning my pack ratting as I'm throwing out too much decent wood and I don't have a fire place nor do I go camping!

I actually think this is a legitimate complaint and I believe Delta will address it. Hopefully sooner than later. As for why people keep buying them, if you look at the reviews online, most have 4.0 to 4.5 stars. Home Depot 4.5, Lowes 4.2 - 4.2, Menards 4.5, Wood Magazine 4.0. One site suggests it is a good saw for the price even though they address the issue of the knocking. I don't knock people for buying it (as it appears to be an easy fix) but I do think they should provide negative feedback as most companies will review these. If they continue to get 3, 4, and 5 stars, the company will continue to sell them as is.