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A project my wife promised her great niece that I was ROPED/COERCED/Wrangled into. Some of the cuts were made on the King 21". I have always hated fencing--even this fencing! Truth be told it was "Very interesting!" to quote a tv show . I actually did enjoy the project; although the next one is going to cost someone SERIOUS BUCKS! Not just Roggenbucks EITHER! The sides & roof are new 1/4 inch plywood, as is the uprights for the fences, ($ Tree sticks)- --the rest -- (framing-trim-Etc.) is all rescued lumber. Hardware is new of course.

Tiger& Cubs pattern Made using 1/4 inch Baltic birch plywood ,and black mount board for backer, used a number 2/0 spiral blade,lots of holes on this one with very small intricate cutting took me about 18-20hours to cut but I think it turned out well just need to finish sanding and stain it and it’s good to go all feedback appreciate thanks Dan

I usually cut 1/8" baltic birch but it is only so thin. I have always anted thinner material but of course i am cheap and dont want to actually pay for anything cheaper. Thought of trying some veneers but again, a bit pricey just for an experiment. Got to thinking that beer cans would be perfect. I first cut off the top and bottom, it was just a curly thing at this point. Next I ironed it on a big paperback book for about 4 minutes. Took quite a bit to get it to relax. Sandwiched it between 2 pieces of 1/8" scrap and cut out some letters and stars. Turned out great. I will certainly figure a way to start using this method more often. The best part is sourcing the material!!

I first learned of this pattern when Richard (heppnerguy) showed us his creation from the pattern here last October. He cut his in an evening but it took me much longer (17 hours). I cut this from 3 centimetre thick Splated maple mostly using #0 Pegas spiral blades (and breaking about 40 of them in the process). In a few places, I utilized Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #3 and #1 blades (without any breakage) I found that I could not cut all the lines in Fiona's pattern without ruining the integrity of the work. The photo below shows a segment of the pattern with lines marked in red in places where I decided to leave a gap: Once cut and sealed, I backed the piece with pale blue glass: It is now hanging in the window of our main bathroom so that the Blue Tits can greet us every morning much like they did back in our typical English garden. Great Memories! My family and I have have fond memories of these little birds when we lived in England throughout most of the 1970s. They did, indeed spend a lot of their time in Hawthorn shrubs in our front garden. Here is a photo of the real thing: Fiona has captured both the birds and the shrubs perfectly in her pattern. I

Fresh off the saw. Stack cut this one, really happy with the results. Pegas #3MG blades.

Have you ever gone fishing? My new pattern and project - Fishing shadowbox. I wanted to make a gift for my friend, who discovered this hobby for me. I hope this will not affect the making of patterns Video of making Fishing shadowbox Fishing pattern

Finished this a few days ago .. was cutting with a pegas 2/0 MGT - but - it took 5 or 6 broken blades on this 3/4+" Walnut Burl before I thought "HEY DUMMIE! Use a bigger blade, there are NO little itty bitty cuts." Only broke one blade after that. I love that #1 FD. The stand is shaped like a GUITAR PICK. In Maple. Maple and walnut just look so darned good together. I used Danish Oil (natural) on the thing - then - Spar Urethane - 3 coats seperated with a bit of sanding to get that glossy glass like finish on the base. Clock from KMMKrafts .. of course. Next project ? I think Lab Head shot .. on a heart shapped back ground .. hmmmm . . need to find a good pattern of a Labs Head ..

Some orders came in out of nowhere from a store full of recipients that got plenty of free name he gave to his new car his wife bought him!from me.hadvsome spots lifted and will glue back.blue bird is the

Hi I've not done much scroll saw work for a while. My daughter has been bugging me for ages to do this as soon as she saw it in the beginning of Cobra Kai season 2, it's not quite done yet, can't decide to use backing card or use resin to fill up the voids.

Yeah, roger that on the car axel grease - I got the Valvoline full synthetic and used it for all the bearings/sleeves - except for the connecting rod - which is in the mail coming to me. My son-in-law is a mechanic and has the drift tool Ray used in his video to spread the vertical assembly in order to remove the connecting rod from it, so I am optimistic in being able to make that replacement. Really hoping that will be the source of the knocking. But even if it isn't, it will eliminate that as the cause and help zero in on where the knocking is coming from.

Hi i bought my first scroll saw 3 monts ago Now i love it so mush looking to by a better machine

I have seen this cut before but cannot remember where. Wish I knew the designer so I could give credit. The eagle is 3/8" cherry, the base is plain old pine. Both dipped in 50/50 BLO. Cut with #1 PMG.

Hey Everyone ! I'm The Artisan Pirate ! Primarily I am a Scroll Saw artist but I dabble in all forms of woodworking and just enjoy working with my hands ! I am from Burlington NC, a textile town and I started learning woodworking from my Grandfather on my Mother's side over Christmas Break when I was 14 (32 Now) and the scroll saw was the tool I took to the most !! Just upgraded to the Delta 20 inch scroll saw and I love it ! I have social media and a YouTube channel (links Below) I am friends with Steve Good and he has given me permission to film alot of YouTube content around his patterns that he makes, and before covid, I used to dress up like a pirate and do birthday parties and community events where people could get photos with me ! thats about all for now ! Anything else you wanna know just ask ! And please follow me on Instagram and Subscribe to me on YouTube !! And most importantly, please stay safe in this world ! Also, I love to sticker swap ! Contact Me At These Links; - E-Mail; artisanpirate@gmail.com - Instagram; https://www.instagram.com/artisanpirate/ - Twitter; https://twitter.com/artisan_pirate - Also, contact me through Social Media if you would like to Sticker Swap ! #ArtisanPirate

Hi everyone! Retired from almost every aspect of the automotive industry and now in a retirement apartment (read small) wondering where the years went. Planning on scrolling since my entire woodshop is just a memory now. Never had a scroll saw before and now I'm going to have a small one mounted to a wooden TV stand that can be folded if necessary. Because of the severe space confinement, I'm thinking about the 87776 MicroLux Mini Scroll Saw. I know I'll have problems along the way but. I've got time to solve them along with all the knowledge on this site. Looking forward to the experience and new friendships.

I discovered this pattern when another scroller (Lasha Barbosa) posted her fantastic work on a Facebook group in early November. I contacted her to find the pattern (which is in a book available on Amazon) and decided to have a go at cutting it out.. What a surprise when it actually turned out. Sharon loves them so I ended up stack cutting a bunch for this years Christmas. It was a big hit. I used quarter inch Red Oak purchased from Lowes and upscaled the pattern a bit. I am pretty sure I used FD PSR#3 at first but then I switched to FD UR#3 later. I oiled it with Old English. Sharon wanted to hang it below another ornament so I cut out a star (from Steve Good) and connected them with fishing line. She added the ribbon.

A big THANK YOU is going out to Bernd (munzieb) who was willing to share the Hummingbird pattern for the lamp body side panels. My version is also made from solid Oak. Body Panels cut from 1/4x5 1/2 x 48 and the top and base was cut from 1/2x5 1/2x24. The Base and top are my design. The lamp body is 4 1/2" square by 10" tall. The base is 5 1/2" square x 1 1/2" tall. The Top is 5 1/2 Square x 1/2" tall. The vertical edges of the body panels were beveled to 45 degrees on my bench belt sander. All the mitering and chamfering done for the base and top was done on the table saw. I use a frame strap clamp during glue up to insure the base was square. I use the scrolll saw to cut the cutouts in at the bottom of the base sides before glue up. Like Bernd, I used amber plexiglass. However, I made the plexiglass more translucent by applying velum with sparay adhesive to the inside face. The electrical components consist of a 6 ft lamp cord with an inline rocker switch, short lamp pipe nipple, candlelabra socket and LED bulb. The top is loose fit for access to the bulb. I stack cut the four sides and used Pegas #3 MGT R Blades. Cutting the 1" thick stack was slow but not too difficult. After assembly and sanding, the lamp and the loose top was finished with many coats of clear gloss spray Lacquer. Made this lamp for my lady as she loves Hummingbirds. That makes two Hummingbird plaques, one Hummingbird framed piece and now this Hummingbird lamp . She is Happy.

I ran across this post a couple of months ago and found it a lot shorter and more to the point then the others. I tore down a DeWalt scroll saw that I gave to my grandson several years ago and cleaned and greased everything and it ran like new. I did not have to do anything with the upper arm on that machine. I am glad you found it helpful also. Dick heppnerguy

Excellent!

That is a superb cutting on a delicate project. What is the size?

YOU THINK IT TURNED OUT WELL? It turned out FANTASTIC !!!

Very well done!

I think that the Dewalt DW788 is one of the best saws, especially for beginners. My brother started with this one when he was just learning. He is still quite happy with it and didn’t replace it yet. I agree that sometimes it needs some maintenance, but it only depends on how often you plan to use it. I think that there are plenty of other options. I know that even for beginners, it is better to start with some famous brands, such as Bosch or Dewalt. I know that cheap power tools can cause some unpleasant accidents, so it is better to be on the safe side. Besides, you can check some guides online for the best scroll saw.

Lots of Time in this one, but So nice and Clean cuts looking. Well worth Framing and Hanging. Danny :+}

Here is another sight that is super easy to understand and might find a little more helpful. Dick heppnerguy

Hi everyone My name is Kevin and I am in BC Canada...I got addicted to scroll sawing after seeing a video on you tube and have never looked back...my wife says I spend more time on my saw than I do with her (which she is probably right lol)...I started out with an old fixer upper Ryobi which soon got the name Franken saw and since then I bought a Makita saw which I just love the way it cuts...I am always looking to better my technics and always learning and I look forward to participating here ...Most nights that I can not sleep you will find me on or near my saws that is why I am called The Mid Night Scroller usually on my saws after midnight...lol...I say saws because I have more then one saw..I still have the Franken saw , the Makita , a skill scroll saw and a trade master that I need to do something with the speed switch because it is broken...I think I will try and wire it to almost full speed and connect it to a foot pedal , what are some of your thoughts on doing this as my funds are next to nil but I am not going to get into that...lol...here are a few pieces I have done...just remember that I am still fairly new to this addiction...lol

Welcome to The Village. Glad to see you finally decided to join up. Now we can all get to know you too. Your projects look pretty darn nice and maybe you can keep even more inspired to make more sawdust, if you log on often and see what others are also doing. Keep making the sawdust and having fun with it. Dick heppnerguy

As I'm approaching retirement age in a few years (probably never retire), I started to buy a few woodworking tools for basic carpentry needs. As I was exploring bandsaws and realizing that I wont be making kitchen cabinets anytime soon and my need for resawing may be quite limited, I started looking at scroll saws and discovering all the cool little stuff I could be making for the grand kids. I could likely use a scroll saw to shape the contours of furniture armchairs (Adirondack chairs) and create patterns in the seat back or arms. I've been doing some research on scroll saws. I'm set on a flat table and moving arm. And all the brands of moving arms seem to be made by the same manufacturer in Taiwan except the whole confusion about the name and unit built by GI in China - Excalibur / Excelsor. Great article on this community which is what brought me here in the first place and I've discovered a wealth of information. Noteworthy, Pégas scroll saw isn't on your list of scroll saws - and the optional long table (more room in front of the blade is a strong contender.). For me, Seyco is out because they don't have the rack and pinion tilt and I can't see myself fussing around to make angle adjustments or building a rack and pinion like Steve Good has done. Still need to look at Jet, ... and maybe others. Excited at the possibilities and love those 3D scrollsaw designs. Stay safe everyone! J-M

First time posting here , just thought I would say hello.I'm from ohio and have become quite interested in intarsia.I'm on my 3rd one so far and I'm hooked!!! I've looked at many of the pictures on this site and you are all amazing so I'm hoping to learn a lot !! Thanks !

Very nice cutting and a lot of small holes, great job.

Although not a fisher person; I like it very well? I know that I m way to IMPATIENT to fish, but do appreciate the piece you made!

Get some aluminum flashing in the roofing section. Not as cheap, but also not curled.

yep .. the clock just snaps out ..

MIGHTY,, FINE!

Love those Pike blades. I just ordered a gross of #2 Super Pikes. $20.76 that's $.14 per blade. Considerably cheaper than traditionable blades which I also use.

Forgot to mention I used a #1 jewelers blade.

OK, true confessions. I had been following the bidding on eBay for a Hegner 14e. In spite of it not supporting top feeding, I put in a low ball bid. And I won! So I am now awaiting the arrival of my new-to-me Hegner in about 2 weeks. It will sit beside my Pegas and I will have fun comparing the two.

A Very Good Friend taught me about making crafts this way. I Loved his work a lot. There is a lot of small pieces that are cut. Most need that TINY hole, so needs to be Spackled before painting. Anyway I ENJOYED doing this project. More to come. Enjoy and Of course Pros n Cons Welcome...............Danny :+}

Me too. I'm a fan of the Olson PGT blades for thick hardwood like this one. I'm sure others will work also.

Last bowl I made almost a year ago. It is time for new one. Bowl pattern Video of making bowl

awesome job

Something different. I really like this.

Looks fabulous. Well done. Marg

Nice finish. I just noticed that the clock insert is not exposed in the back.. Interesting ...so to adjust the time the piece just comes out I guess? Pretty cool design overall.

I've never had a problem with my nailer jamming. Like you said - using a nail that is just longer than the stack is thick I think is the key so that it avoids any jamming issues. I'm using a cheapo brad nailer too, so I don't think that it would be a problem with any kind of nicer equipment either. The steel usually stops the nail flush with the bottom and if any length is left, it just sticks out the top of the stack slightly. Pressing the stack down firmly onto the plate when nailing it is key as well.

Lots of times quarter inch stock is slightly cupped.. The 1/4" red oak boards I get from Lowes can be counted on to have just enough cupping to give me some control issues scrolling it. I have found that using pins to stack cut two boards is very effective to getting rid of the cups. Just pin the boards opposite to each others cups... voila, no more cup. Regarding the pins shooting out the backside of the board, I always adjust the air pressure down to around 80lbs and test on scrap pieces before shooting my project. My nailer (Grex) shoots very consistently, once I get it dialed in (by adjusting the air pressure) it can be trusted to do its job. Nothing is perfect though.. Last time I thought all was well, a single 5/8" pin was left hidden in the nailer and the rest were 3/8" that I needed for pinning two 1/4" boards.. So of course the 5/8" pin shot right through the back of my project waste area. I was able to pull it out. So yeah... always shoot first pin into scrap and test.

Haven't posted for awhile but that doesn't mean I haven't been on the saw. Here are some recent ones that I have done. The first two are Jim Blume patterns on birch burl slabs. The last three are H Botas patterns. Warrior is on birch and the other two are black poplar. Jeff

So putting metal on the back of the stack will help and it doesn't jam up the nail gun? I mentioned about trying this on the other post a month or two ago about doing this and many said it'd probably jam the nail gun.. It might if you was trying to use a 1 inch nail in half inch wood but seems like it would be fine for just a minimal amount to keep it from protruding the back side just a small amount.

welcome to the village and love your works.

Hi, my name is Tom and I am a wood hoarder. I have piles of wood all over my shop, and the only way I know to reduce the piles is to take it out and burn it. I will never use all the little scraps and pieces of scroll size wood. Keeping them is like an addiction. Now that I've said that, I'll go down to the shop and get rid of all the scraps.... NOT. Tom

Thank you for your welcomes. I just posted some projects in the bragging rights. I have no basement or would use that. Not many houses here in the Boise area have basements. My dream is a workshop or third garage bay I can use.