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Tiger& Cubs pattern Made using 1/4 inch Baltic birch plywood ,and black mount board for backer, used a number 2/0 spiral blade,lots of holes on this one with very small intricate cutting took me about 18-20hours to cut but I think it turned out well just need to finish sanding and stain it and it’s good to go all feedback appreciate thanks Dan

Hi I've not done much scroll saw work for a while. My daughter has been bugging me for ages to do this as soon as she saw it in the beginning of Cobra Kai season 2, it's not quite done yet, can't decide to use backing card or use resin to fill up the voids.

With the encouragement of my wife, it really didn't take much urging to give these little guys a try - both of us really enjoyed looking at everyone else's take on these plans and they really served as the initial motivation to give them a try. A couple of the details on these guys: The pattern was reduced in size - I forget exactly how much but I think about 75% (maybe 80%?) of the original size. The wood used is walnut (backing and suit), bloodwood (hat), padauk (nose), canary (bear, moustache), wenge (belt, boots). Finishing is Minwax Polyurethane Semi-Gloss - 4 coats. We're both pretty pleased with how they turned out but in reality they are still a work in progress - and will be for a while - the plans call for a small oval stand for them to be glued to but between the two of us we came up with a few different ideas - most of which will have to wait until the snow is gone ...... mount them on: skipping stones from the lake, polished agate stones from one of the mines around here, driftwood from the lake and finally some small pieces of burl that are in my own wood supply. In the pictures below I have them sitting on unfinished pieces of burl - they look pretty bland at the moment but this burl finishes up and polishes out to show off quite a spectacular grain. At least at this point it looks like there will be a bunch of other little members to join the family before next Christmas - all with their own unique base. Thanks very much to Steve Good for a terrific pattern. Jay

Well, I got commissioned by my wife to make a sleigh this year. The book that had the pattern that she liked was "Classic Fretwork Scroll Saw Patterns" By Patrick Spielman & James Reidle. My first challenge was to find some 1/4" walnut large enough for the pattern.. I ordered some 8"X12"wood from an ebay seller and that worked well but I had to shrink the plans slightly to make it fit. I used Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades. Had a piece of the fretwork snap off on me but I am not sayin where (Lol!) Anyhow, Sharon was so pleased she bought me a new Hegner for Christmas (LOL!!!) She wanted to put the sleigh under the tree but we discovered that it makes an excellent candy dish on our dining room table.

A project my wife promised her great niece that I was ROPED/COERCED/Wrangled into. Some of the cuts were made on the King 21". I have always hated fencing--even this fencing! Truth be told it was "Very interesting!" to quote a tv show . I actually did enjoy the project; although the next one is going to cost someone SERIOUS BUCKS! Not just Roggenbucks EITHER! The sides & roof are new 1/4 inch plywood, as is the uprights for the fences, ($ Tree sticks)- --the rest -- (framing-trim-Etc.) is all rescued lumber. Hardware is new of course.

I found a Venice scene on Pinterest I found interesting and not too difficult to cut. It did take a few days to clean up and modify the pattern. I had to go bigger because of the small cut windows in the skyline buildings. 1/8" BBPW on 1/4" backer, 12x15" size. Shellac and Lacquer finish.

This colorful 12” x 15 1/2” fretwork portrait was made from a free decal stencil image by Henny Donovan that I found online and reworked into a scrollable pattern in Inkscape. I’ve uploaded the pattern to the Library. The pattern was cut in 5/32” solid core Maple ply using Pegas #0 spiral blades and affixed to a 1/4” hand painted BB ply backer. The coloring was done using acrylic craft paints. I used the original image as a guide to doing the coloring. I’ve attached the original image for comparison. The final panel was protected with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. FYI, the painting process is a time consuming effort. The frame is a simple Poplar frame painted Gloss Black It should be noted that in the actual cutting there is contrast in the Parrots eye that is not visible in the photo because shadow hides the light grey color surrounding the black pupil.

Nicely done1 Since you showed the photo with the light behind it, I think it would look great with a translucent backer like colored acrylic and a light or lights attached behind it. Please show us how you did decide to finish it. Thanks for sharing and God Bless!

Yeah, no problem there. The tough part is "flattening them out".

I just cut this. I found a piece of wood with grain that looked just right. I want to donate this to a local charity to sell. Those of you who sell your work, please tell me what price you would ask for this.

I usually cut 1/8" baltic birch but it is only so thin. I have always anted thinner material but of course i am cheap and dont want to actually pay for anything cheaper. Thought of trying some veneers but again, a bit pricey just for an experiment. Got to thinking that beer cans would be perfect. I first cut off the top and bottom, it was just a curly thing at this point. Next I ironed it on a big paperback book for about 4 minutes. Took quite a bit to get it to relax. Sandwiched it between 2 pieces of 1/8" scrap and cut out some letters and stars. Turned out great. I will certainly figure a way to start using this method more often. The best part is sourcing the material!!

Just finished these 3 portraits. The 2 Nurse ones are by Heldas Botas and are for my sisters. Both are Nurses, one in Perth, the other in Mandurah. The truck is by Sam Custudio . I have a second one cut, but am waiting for felt for the backing. They are cut from 4mm Hoop Pine ply, 3mm mdf backer painted black. A3 size Frames are radiata Pine, the truck is natural, one of the others stained Rose Wood, the other Dark Mahogany. Cutting lacquered with 30% gloss and frames full gloss. There was another post with people discussing how they "hang" their works. so I have included picture of the rear of mine so you can see how I do it.

The Avett Brothers. If you don't know their music you should check them out. No Hard Feelings, Victory, Down With The Shine, would be good ones to start with. Cut on 1/2" live edge Walnut.

I think the DeWalt is one of the most used saws by beginners. So, how can it be too aggressive for beginners...? I really started on a DeWalt and as far as I was concerned it was not aggressive, I had really nothing to compare it with... After years of scrolling, I know the Hegner is less aggressive than the DeWalt and the Excalibur type saws... Does not make the Hegner better,,, it is just less aggressive.... You can learn to compensate for the aggressive cutting wit the blades used... I use a Hegner most the time,,, but I also use a Seyco... Like them both... but the Hegner FITS ME BEST.. Not the best for everyone... We are all different.

Ahh, you very wise Frankyson!

I followed a similar progression. Before I realized I would love this Hobby. A garage sale Dremel (pinned blades only) that I should have hooked up to my bed to vibrate me to sleep. A Craftsman that I inherited from my Father. Too many tools needed to change the blade, but I cut some ginger bread trim for my shed. Delta SS350, Great saw but its front back blade motion was too aggressive, that is what I don't like about the Dewalt. That is when I decided I really like this hobby and bought the Hawk G4 26 (2005) I did add the Pozgai clamp mod when it was available, by adding the Delta quick clamps. . It has paid for most of the tools that I have purchased since then, with my annual ornament sales. I also now have a EX 16 with Pegas clamps. I am not big on progressive steps when it comes to tools. I now wait until I have the funds and fight my spontaneous buy urges. I would buy the Pegas if I were in the market now. Best clamps, and you can easily tune the front back stroke. just my opinion.

A little cumbersome but a C-clamp or a bench vise and some pieces of pipe or sockets can press the bearings too.. I'm sure there are many other useful ways of doing it as well..

Yes, I've heard or seen of that somewhere before. I don't have a drill press (yet - my birthday's coming) so will use my son-in-law's shop. it's good to have a mechanic in the family.

Hi, my name is Tom and I am a wood hoarder. I have piles of wood all over my shop, and the only way I know to reduce the piles is to take it out and burn it. I will never use all the little scraps and pieces of scroll size wood. Keeping them is like an addiction. Now that I've said that, I'll go down to the shop and get rid of all the scraps.... NOT. Tom

Anyone tried on of these 3D puzzles? I enjoy the few flat type puzzles I have cut.... may have to give this a try one day. Also check out his scroll saw.... Guess you don't need fancy.

When I had my DeWalt, I never thought of it as aggressive. I didn't have much to compare it to, at the time. I had it for several years and cut some pretty fine detail with it. When I got my EX-21, I played around a bit with the motor orientation, to change the arc of the cut. I was able to get it to cut way more aggressively than my DeWalt ever did. I was making some compound cut ornaments and wanted to dial up the aggression. After that project was done, I stepped away from the saw and didn't cut anything for some time. When I got back to it, I had completely forgotten that I had adjusted the motor. I had a lot of difficulty controlling the cut on some fretwork. It took me some time and a lot of questioning whether or not I had lost my touch, before it dawned on me that I needed to reset the motor. Now, I've never used a Hegner or a Hawk, so I can't argue that the DeWalt isn't naturally more aggressive than either of those saws, but I don't perceive it to be too aggressive for a beginner.

Very nice. Not sure what your plans are for displaying it, but I could see it made into a very nice night light. If you made a round box about 2" deep with a backer, a little velum or colored plexiglass behind the cut out, a small socket w/ LED buld and a nice solid wood base....,"wal la", a night light for your daughter.

Yep, I agree with Rolf, Many people are quick and easy to suggest a saw without really knowing what the intended user will plan to cut with it.. I can't imagine trying to cut some of that paper thin wood that they use to make pictures with different types of wood etc.. Can't remember what it's called but it's real thin wood.. I think it'd be pretty tough job to do on a aggressive cutting saw like a DeWalt.. Even a lot of folks struggle with learning and trying to keep a blade cutting where they want it to.. a aggressive cutting saw just makes that harder to learn.. so in my mind the best entry level saw is going to be one that has a adjustable blade movement for less or more aggressive cutting styles.. I'd say a Pegas would be about the best fit for a new person.. Not really built like a tank like a Hawk or Hegner but very versatile saw with all the user friendly adjustments and whatnot.. seems it would be about the easiest most sensible saw for a wide variety of scrolling styles and projects one might want to try..

Attas nicea!!!

Carbide or diamond but I don't know if they make them for scroll saws.

So, what blades would one use to cut glass? Jewelers blades maybe? Just asking for a friend. My wife actually. She laughed when I told her about the beer cans but got interested when I mentioned glass/bottles.

Beautiful job, that once again proves excellent work can be produced with spiral blades. Thanks for showing us your fine project.

very nice job

Thank you,yes some of the holes were so close together especially round the Cubs faces but just took my time and went real slow!!! cheers Dan

I didn't cheat and look at any of the replies .. James Taylor never looked so good .... Great job !!!!

FANTASTIC Job! Congrats on the new saw too. My sons got me a new 21" King for Father's day! Still learning on it. Sold my two P-Cs--They were/are both good saws too (1 was -16" & 1 was 18") --although not in the category with the King! The one P-C had a top attached LED light-which was wonderful-- I use a spring arm one that I made brackets to attach to the stand on the King. - Not quite as handy though. Everything else about the King is great.

Looks good Andrew. She is sure to love it!

Well done, Frank. That is a stunning piece.

My saw is an Excalibur. I have 2 of them and one DeWalt. I bought my first Ex from Paul (Scrappile). Then I continued a search to find one more for a backup. They were hard to find, once they stopped producing them. Everyone seemed to be hanging onto what they had. I finally got lucky and found one on Craigslist in Phoenix. It was about three years old and purchased for a grandson to give him something to do when he visited him in the winter. But fortunately for me, the kid only spent a couple of hours on it and never was interested and did not touch it again. So it sat unused from the first hour or so it was used. Finally the grandfather decided it was taking up space in the shop for nothing and posted it. An hour after he made the post I had it in my car and have been using it every since. Oh, by the way, I got it for $200 Dick heppnerguy

My sander does have the capability to do that but unfortunately the table part is not a very good one for that. Perhaps I can figure out how to make an extension and screw it on so it may work. I am not very good at that type of thing but I will try anyway. Dick heppnerguy

Nice job on that. I think a backer will make it stand out more.

Fresh off the saw. Stack cut this one, really happy with the results. Pegas #3MG blades.

Very well done!

Our club is invited to make toys for Lubbock Christian University each year for their Christmas event for children. Also, I make an item they use as a door prize. This year a cedar box with their theme, this year, which is "Charley brown Christmas". Image on the 10"x7" box is inlaid using the "double bevel inlay" method using my scroll saw. Reindeer are 3D cuts on scroll saw.

My best storage place is

WOW Kris, you hit the bull's eye with this one. Great job, I'm sure your wife will love it. Rick

Very thoughtful and very beautiful !!!

Time well spent. Fabulous work and pattern. Marg

Welcome aboard!

Started this Steve Good pattern a few days ago for my son-in-law who needs a place to hang his bass boat keys (Lol). Still need to drill some holes and oil it up. It is half inch red oak. I used Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades.. mostly #3 and #5 but had to use a #1 in a few places.

Made this for my daughter. 3/4” red oak, finished with arm-r-Seal. Cut on EX21 using pegas #5 MG.

My latest desk clock, Requested by someone in my family. A nice easy one for a change. Walnut and Western Red Cedar. Their choice.

I have shown these in the past. Both were made several years ago, but these are my favorite Dirk Boelman Christmas projects. First is Santa’s workshop portrait. Cut from 1/8 Baltic birch plywood with a Mahogany ply backer. Handcrafted pine frame. Above Mrs Santa is a wall clock. That clock comes to life as the second project. The clock is cut from solid Cherry and Walnut with Maple for the icicles. Elves and Santa in the windows are also Maple. The roof pillars are compound cut out of pine. The clock movement chimes every hour and every fifteen minutes. It has a swinging pendulum with elves swinging on the pendulum rod.

Thanks. That's why I never heard of him. I was never a Rock and Roller. I'm still in the big band era.

Few BBQ Scrapers to get rid of the wire scrapers.