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This clock was made from chestnut wood (the body) and white walnut wood (the disk)

Quick story. My wife works for a small machine shop. I have made a few items for some folks there through the years. I made a little desk clock for my wife and the owner took notice and liked what he saw. He told my wife he had a piece of wood in the back of the machine shop that his father had many, many years ago. The father died about 25 years ago I was told. Anyway, he told my wife I could have it. This is what i got last night when my wife came home. It is a very dark wood and very dirty. It has sat in the back of the machine shop for at least 25 years, probably longer. The son (present owner) of the owner really doesn't know how old it is. He was told by his father it is an "exotic wood". He thinks he may have got it in trade for some machined parts. It is over 6' tall, over 13" wide and 2" thick and very, very heavy. It took 2 guys to put it in the back of our Ford Escape. My wife and I had a heck of a time getting it into the house. An amazing piece of wood. The more I look at it it appears to be mahogany. Once I get it downstairs to my workshop under better lighting and a little sanding to get the crud off I may be able to tell what it is. Wouldn't it be something if it turns out to be genuine Honduras Mahogany. Of course I have no way of identifying Honduras Mahogany. Just wishful thinking. I can't even imaging what something like that would cost to buy. I have no idea what I'm going to use it for or even how to cut it up. I'm not really a furniture maker. I have made a few end tables and a wall mirror. But I do mostly Intarsia and fretwork now. Guess I'll have to learn how to resaw with my 12" Jet bandsaw.

Recent rainy weather held me off from assorted outdoor projects so I decided to cut a project I had in my pattern library for quite a while. It's a narrow fret box made from Bubinga 10 x 4.5". Original pattern had straight sides and I decided to add furniture style feet. A little tricky cutting these small parts but I got it done.

Waiting for spring - Birdhouse project, 5 layers makes great 3D effect, 1/8 inch laminated MDF, project size - 7,5 x 7,5 inches Video of making project Birdhouse pattern

The world lost a lot of future good music when 30 year old Jim Croce's plane went down in 1973. He wrote and sang Time In A Bottle, Operator, I'll Have To Say I Love You In A Song, Bad Bad Leroy Brown, Don't Mess Around With Jim and many others. "You can keep the dime."

Update Looks like genuine Mahogany to me, but I really don't know. What do you think it is? Cleaned it up the best I could. I'll let it dry for a few hours, then give it a nice sanding with 150G and see what it looks like then. To me it is an incredible piece of wood.

That is a hunk of wood!!! If you need a sample of Mahogany to compare once you clean it up, let me know. I’ll send you a small piece. I have some genuine Honduran Mahogany.

well iv finally got the layered snakes finished pictures of all sides and then with there little hats on.....im not sure if i should just include them with the snakes or glue them onto there heads.they were a real bugger to paint and the colors arent excetly right but i got as close as i could with paints i have on hand i was going to put a jar or can inside them to make them useful as pencle holders or something but with the head and tail glued on the inside of the circlees so far i have found anything that will fit might see if i can cut a round piece of wood to put on the bottom it would be shallow but you could put change in it or something

Finished another 4 hearts. Received the pattern last year for Christmas and cut two then. Had a request for another one. 4 layers of 1/8 bb ply, cut with #3 MG blade. Finish is Danish oil, (fruitwood colour) and tung oil.

I'm going to try and find out later today what I actually have. It was given to me as a gift. I would never sell it. Besides, I plan on making something for him out of the wood.

I puzzled through this business of Hegner clamp sizes just today so I figured I would throw in on this conversation. I have the small size and the medium size and to my eye they look identical (I don't see all that well though LOL). I can clamp a #9 FD-UR blade in the small clamp (which surprised me) so I think small size is pretty much "medium" in my book (lol). What I found as a way to positively identify which is which was that on the "medium" clamp I was able to slide a #9 FD blade in from the back side (from the circle end where the slot is narrowest). This wasn't possible when I tried it on the small clamp. Purely an academic test since no one would ever try to put a blade in like that. I etched an "M" on the medium clamps and put them in storage. I don't expect to need them very often.

Boy a well organized shop, could I work in this kind of surroundings?!!!!

Where's the Harley?

Blessings in disquise !!!

With the encouragement of my wife, it really didn't take much urging to give these little guys a try - both of us really enjoyed looking at everyone else's take on these plans and they really served as the initial motivation to give them a try. A couple of the details on these guys: The pattern was reduced in size - I forget exactly how much but I think about 75% (maybe 80%?) of the original size. The wood used is walnut (backing and suit), bloodwood (hat), padauk (nose), canary (bear, moustache), wenge (belt, boots). Finishing is Minwax Polyurethane Semi-Gloss - 4 coats. We're both pretty pleased with how they turned out but in reality they are still a work in progress - and will be for a while - the plans call for a small oval stand for them to be glued to but between the two of us we came up with a few different ideas - most of which will have to wait until the snow is gone ...... mount them on: skipping stones from the lake, polished agate stones from one of the mines around here, driftwood from the lake and finally some small pieces of burl that are in my own wood supply. In the pictures below I have them sitting on unfinished pieces of burl - they look pretty bland at the moment but this burl finishes up and polishes out to show off quite a spectacular grain. At least at this point it looks like there will be a bunch of other little members to join the family before next Christmas - all with their own unique base. Thanks very much to Steve Good for a terrific pattern. Jay

An Alex Fox pattern. I've seen this cut and displayed numerous times and have always admired the pattern. 11X14, 1/8" laminated BB, #2 Pike blade. 363 Holes and 8 and 3/4 hours saw time plus drilling and misc. time.

That is interestiong, I saw something like that happen many years ago. I worked for Andersen Windows in Bayport Minnesota and Mr Andersen got a piece of white pine that was very long and large and someone found it in an old warehouse and when they remodeled the offices they made a place for it to stand upright. It was given to him from Fred Weyhauser I guess as he first started making white pine frames before they moved across the river and built the window plant. Bill

I confess, I'm a hoarder too. There is no cure. I have kept every little piece I have (almost). I'm out of room and some is just leaning against the tables. When they were little my daughters would tell me, " what a mess daddy, what a mess " I just stack the small pieces on top of the other pieces. I'll cut something out of it sooner or later.

I just cut this. I found a piece of wood with grain that looked just right. I want to donate this to a local charity to sell. Those of you who sell your work, please tell me what price you would ask for this.

Made this Box for my SIL for her birthday to hold a deck of playing cards.

there are a few different species in the mahogany family.it sure looks like one of them https://www.wood-database.com/wood-finder/?fwp_name=M

I’ve mentioned before that my workshop is a small 8’ x 12’ Resin Suncast shed purchased from Lowes. I also have a previously installed 7’ x 10’ Resin Suncast shed that is for my garden equipment. The back of my workshop shed is about six inches from the side of the garden equipment shed. Sawdust control has become a problem in the work shop. I only have 4 machines in my shed. Between my scroll saw, router, sander and table saw I have been generating way tooooo much sawdust and it was getting impossible just to sweep to keep the shop clean. My small shop vacuum was filling up the bag quickly and was not very practical to get in and around the equipment stations and work bench. A dust collection system seemed to be a necessary investment. Since my shop is small there was no room to install a dust collector inside the shop, so I decided that I would look for a system I could install in the garden equipment shed and run the collection piping and a remote switch through the walls into the workshop. Locating the Dust Collector remotely in the garden equipment shed reduces the noise of the loud dust collector in the workshop. I also did not want to spend a lot of money for a system, so after some Google searches and a lot of research, I decided to purchase a Woodstock International Shop Fox model W1727 1 HP Dust Collector that was recommended for 3 machines for about $450. Since my shop is so small I figured it would be good for my 4 machines and a drag around hose.. Four inch diameter hose was used to connect the Shop Fox through the walls into the workshop where the interconnection hoses was reduced to 2 1/2” diameter throughout the workshop. This is the hose between the sheds wrapped with foil sided tape for protection. The switch wire also under the tape wrap. This is the tansition from 4" to 2 1/2" inside the workshop. m I removed the On/Off switch that came mounted on the Shop Fox motor and relocated the switch to inside the Workshop. A twist lock male plug was installed in the gem box on the motor where the switch was and a female plug attached to the wire coming from the relocated switch. This prevents the connection from becoming dislarged due to vibration. There is a blast door at each machine so only one inlet at a time will be operated when the machine is operated. I also added a fifth blast door for a 1 1/4” dia. drag around hose for shop cleanup of sawdust generated by portable tools like palm sanders,Dremel carving tools and trim routers. This is to the back of the disk/belt sander. This is the connection to my router table. There is also a lower inlet in the back from the box below that cannot be seen. This is the connection to the back of my contracto table saw. This is the connection to the Pegas and the drag around hose. I made a collection box for under the Pegas table. Although I have not used the system for actual machine operations yet, I have tested the system and it seems to be working just as exspected. Plenty of suction and the Dust Collector can be barely heard. The air flow at an inlet is louder that the sound of the remotely located motor. Not sure if I will run it continuously while scrolling. Might turn it on when dust and pieces collect in the box below the table. The hoses, fittings (i.e.; Tee, Wyes, Blast Gates), hose clamps (lots of hose clamps) and hose mountings added about another $250 to the cost of the system. It took about 16 hours over three days to install the complete system. Hope this was not too boring and possible useful information for any one consdidering a small dust collector system. EDIT 1/14/21: There is a tour of my shop in a reply to Ken toward the bottom of this post.

Finally got on today, was suppose to go the the VA for my monthly labs, 'life time med thing' Roads are too icey so it was easier to put it off and hang out. Thank you Travis.

This is what Advance Machinery site" How do you easily identify which clamp is which? Small and large slot clamps both have a smooth top, but are easy to differentiate since the large slot is twice the size of the small one. The medium slot clamp has a dimple in its top so you can easily tell it apart from the others. Also, all separately ordered clamp pairs are supplied in individual bags identifying their size.

You said it was really heavy, It possibly could be Jatoba, some people call iy Brazilian Cherry. It is very heavy and dense. I have a few pieces of it and use it sparingly for accent pieces.It resembles Mahogany somewhat.

I would want to be near 100% sure I knew what it was before I cut it. If it truly is a very old exotic wood, it could be very valuable.

That makes it doubly impressive being an A4, I would of chickened out and printed it at A3 at least Beautiful

This BD gift is a.bit of intarsia.

I'm drooling at your hard wood collection. The grass is always greener across the street. That said I have a truck load and a half of small and long hard woods but can't get to them because I'm a hoarder too. The guy here keeps telling me to throw some out ... so I threw out what he gave me and his jaw dropped open. See how it feels!!!

I'm impressed Barb!!!!

That's work to write home about!!!!

When I got the Hegner this Christmas, this was the first thing I tried to cut out. It is a classic Steve Good pattern. Sharon loves hummingbirds so I figured I couldn't go wrong with this one.. After all she approved the Hegner purchase (Lol!). I can't remember if I used the FD Penguin Silver Reverse or the FD Ultra Reverse.. In any case I am sure it was a #3.. Sharon suggested that I trim the backing with gold so I got that done this morning after taping it last night. All in all I am very pleased with how it turned out. The wood is BB 1/4". The stain on the backer is Minwax Dark Walnut. I applied Minwax polyurethane to the fretwork.

This project had two goals. First it was an experiment in presentation. The 10” x 16” cut panel is 1/8” BB Ply painted flat black after cutting. The backer is a 12” x 17” 1/4” BB Ply that was left natural except for the colored pattern that was hand painted with Acrylic Craft Paints. The glued up panel was further finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The oversized backer creates a matted effect when placed in the Frame. The custom frame is made from Red Oak that was enhanced with Minwax Red Oak stain and finished with multiple coats of Wipe-On-Poly. This rather simple pattern was a free decal stencil that was found online that I converted to a scroll saw Pattern in Inkscape. I cut the panel in less than two hours with a Pegas #1 MGT R blade. Second, in addition to the presentation experiment my intention was to provide the members a simple pattern for those who might be interested in attempting to make a colored fretwork piece. A very inexpensive set with a variety of color Acrylic Craft Paints and a few cheap artist brushes will get you started. I know we have some budding artist, often the Scroller’s spouse, out there who has already added color to some pieces. For those, this would be a piece of cake. I’ll be uploading both the pattern and the original color version to the Pattern Library for those who may wish to give it a try. Just a little hint for those who haven’t done any painting like this is: You start with light tints and build up in layers to the finished darker tints letting each layer to dry completely before adding the next layer. This makes shading effects easier to accomplish. And JFYI, I don’t pretend to be an expert or even an artist as I’m actually just experimenting, practicing and learning myself. Here is the original artwork:

This is a gotta have in anybody's book!!!

Solid 3/4" oak cut with several blades to try then on thick oak. From #5 -#12's.started last night and finished this morning. This is the best of all the ones I,ve cut! Practise makes perfect!!!

Lots of painting and glue as well.. Very artistic. Nice! I can cut but I am not very confident painting, something I need to work on.

Thanks. Thought maybe you and others might want to see the whole 8' X 12' shop: Looking in the front double door. You can see I don't have to walk very far between work stations. The shelf across the rear wall has a bunch of my extra Motorcycle parts. These will probably be relocated to my storage unit when I need the space for more wood working stuff. Right side. Light wood storage on shelf, lots of clamps, hand tools, etc. Left side. Ive had that narrow work bench for about 40 years. Top shel has a bunch of portable power tools in their cases. Lower shelf for all those small items you reach for, for every project. My home made Router table. The wood tool chest was inherited from my father who got it from my grandfather. Probably near a hundred years old. The battery in the back corner is for my box trailer and is on a battery tender There is alittle Echo Dot out of the pick just above the plugs. that lets me listen to my Sirius/XM. My Sanding station on a home made roll around cabinet. The yellow motor with wand is a slow speed carving setup that I currently have a sanding mop installed. Works great to get the furries off the back of cuttings. A few hand saws hang on the wall behind the station and a little plastic drawer cabinet for small picture hangers and such mounted in the back corner. My Dremel area with my upside down dremel drill press and separate dremel with wand for using high speed carving bits. After drilling blade holes I use the wand with a small ball carving bit to taper each hole on the back side of the cut to make threading the blade easier. I generate a lot of sawdust with hand tools (drils, sanders, small routers, etc.) on the work bench, so the drag aroung vac hose will be very nice to keep the area clean. Contractor table saw with a small pancake compressor in corner, used for pin nailer and air duster nozzle. When I have to rip long pieces or cut large panels, I move the saw outside onto the paving in front of the shed. Then it easy to clean up the generated saw sust with my leaf blower. Another view of my Pegas saw setup. Those are blade storage test tubes with caps in a flat board mounted to the side of the stand. Very convienent reach. The flooring material you can see in this photo needs to be replaced. Used a cheap thin stick down vinyl material that is not sticking well. Rain comes in the doos while ';m working weting the floor and with the high summer temps,the floring material is lifiting. I need to replace with a more durable permanently secured material. Next Spring's project. Unfortunately as you can see I have no wall space to hang any of nmy work.

My rule of thumb for saving scraps is; If I can find a place to put it, where I don't trip on it, or bang my head on it, or knock it over, every time I reach for something else, then it gets saved.

It is an Alex Fox pattern called Mechanical Heart https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/705223535/c64-mechanical-heart-scroll-saw-pattern?ref=shop_home_active_14&crt=1

That's an awsome cut and presentation. The Frame makes a great job even better.

Love the look of these. By doing it this way, they are no long just a Christmas item. Now I am going to have to give that a try!

Those are great. I really like the idea of the different types of bases you are considering. I'm sure the burl will look spectacular with a little oil on it.

Hi Denny , hope your well , thank you . it is done on a 1/4 inch A4 piece of Baltic birch plywood . cheers Dan

Welcome from another Arizonian. Having really good saws is a big help in this game. I am glad you have decided to join us as we are friendly and helpful people here. Should you wonder North to Casa Grande, give me a shout and hopefully we can meet up. I always look forward to meeting people from The Village. Do remember to post your work for all of us to enjoy as well. Dick heppnerguy

We have the same setups.... Hegner and Seyco. I modified my Hegner so the arm will lift higher(Just did this a few weeks ago). It helps with the bottom feeding some,,, but I would not do it on a new saw that is under warranty. I also moved the blower to the right side of my saw because I have my dust collection nozzle on the left side... and made a little bigger table for it,,,

My best storage place is

Hello everyone, new to scrolling, but I made this for my wife for Xmas, nothing much, but gotta start somewhere!

You have been busy, an easy way to get rid of pieces of scrap wood and produce fantastic gifts.

For any of my puzzle zombies that aren't subscribed to my You Tube channel, I just did this quick video about minor modifications to Harvey Byler's patterns. https://youtu.be/JKbhJq-Dkvw

I don't typically cut very large stuff either... usually 14-16" is about the largest I do and that's a rare occasion.. My issues with the table have not been the size of the table.. but more about the short distance from the blade to the front edge of the table.. I don't remember exact measurements off the top of my head right not but it's something like only 4 inch from the front edge of the table to the blade.. The Hawk has around 5.5" or 6" and the Dewalts have something like 8" Anyhow whatever the distance is.. Cutting large pieces at times when spinning the board around you may have 12" off the end of the table and into your gut.. I'm a skinny guy but I still have that issue.. not to mention you have 12" hanging off the table and only 4" on the table.. It took me a long time getting used to that..especially coming from running 10+ years on a DeWalt with so much more space.. As I said I don't do many larger stuff.. most my cutting on the EX is 10" or smaller.. anything large I typically just cut it on my Hawks.. Edit to add: The Seyco saw was advertised as having a large area in front of the blade.. I don't remember how much space it was.. but it was up there with the DeWalt or better if I remember correctly.. A fix could be to add a slip on table for the larger projects.. I don't have that "NEED" since I have two 26" Hawks and a 20" Hawk as well.. so I'm not fussing with making a table for larger projects..