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Here are just a few things I have finished this month so far. ,Not watching too much televison but have been listening to a lot of books. Now time goes by really fast and get lots done. Thank for looking and have a great night. MImi

Finnaly have all four finished. 6 layers each. 478 holes. Took about 15 hours cutting, at a lot more time stressing about it!

Niangon and walnut wood. 30x30 cm

Story time! When I first started scroll sawing, I started a blog called Scroll Saw Goodies where I posted resources and tutorials. I also started making a few videos on YouTube under the same name and sold a few patterns. Eventually, this lead me to creating Scroll Saw Village. I've always kept the two separate. But, as you can imagine, maintaining two websites is a lot of work. So I've been working on a new section on SSV where I'm going to port over some of these older projects. I created a few new areas: Project Workshop - These are project videos. These tutorials take you step-by-step as I build a scroll sawn project. I'm going to try to include written instructions as well. I'll be adding a variety of projects over time, too. Everybody has free access to this. It's also be posted on YouTube and probably FaceBook. Project Workshop Patterns - I used to sell patterns that I used on my blog. But it's tough to have the patterns in two places. So, instead of selling them individually, I'm going to give free access to SSV Patrons as a thank you for supporting SSV. Design Workshop - This area is is for design tutorials. Usually, these will be tutorials on how I designed the pattern used in the Project Workshop. But I'll also have other design tutorials, too. This is for folks who are interested in the design process. Access to these tutorials are for SSV Silver & Gold Patrons. Again, thank you for supporting SSV! I've been messing with these sections for about 6 weeks now, and I think I have it ready for prime time. This is an experiment that I'm hoping folks will enjoy. Anyway, here is the first project. I'll be porting over the older ones soon. Enjoy!

Trying to send a video. 20210126_121621.mp4

My brother wanted this sign making “Heimelig” it means cozy in German.it’s made from an A 4 Baltic birch plywood sheet with a black mount board and I made a oak frame to finish it off, then 3 coats of danish oil and some clear varnish ,thanks for looking

The "Re-do" is the "Bread and Cheese" pattern by Fiona Kingdon. I completed it once before, then destroyed it trying to round over the outside edge.... My mistake,,, picked up the wrong router bit.... All okay I loved scrolling it so I cut it again.... This time it is cut in 1/2" Maple... Dipped in Tung oil. I will probably cut this one a third time, just because I like cutting it... The "New" Fiona Kingdon's "Bee on a Comb", cut in 1/2" Beech. I have not sanded and finished it yet... I really enjoy cutting her patterns... I have several more to go..

Because of the VERY slow sales year I have been making a lot of toys that our club gives to various charitable organizations. This is the latest. 7" long made of 3/4" pine board. It floats upright and cannot be tipped over.

I gotta step up my FB and Instagram game, for sure. SSV posts on FB every once in awhile, but I need to do it more. I know it gets a lot of good attention when I do and folks really enjoy what is posted. It's not a community like FB groups. It's more of a page where we post updates and share cool projects from SSV members. We want the chatter to be here.

I'm with Frank on this one. It's easier to tell the line from a floater (from diabetes)I have in my eye. It makes a tiny black squiggle and sometimes lines up with the blade. Light gray with a thin red line works best. What I don't like is a total red pattern.

I find RED to be easier to work with. When I can, I rework the pattern in Inkscape a make the cutout area a very light gray and make the outlines a slightly less red color than the bright red and make the line thickness a thin as posssible. I find I have to often cut with the blade edge against the line instead of splitting the line because the cut out areas are so close together in many hole patterns. The thin red line allows me to do this more easily.

I have gotten used to the black lines, but for me lots of light is the key.

Two months ago, I got my father-in-law’s 30 year old Delta scroll saw and immediately got hooked on the activity. Being that old, it requires a tool to change the blade. Which got me to here – the Village! The past two months have been filled gaining experience: bought and returned two scroll saws, bought a used DW788, took it apart twice (once to grease it – once to replace the connecting rod), built a wood stand for it, and F I N A L L Y started making dust with it today, cutting out the first three exercises contained in John Nelson’s Scroll Saw Workbook. And having a great time! Used the blades I initially bought from the box store with scrap wood I had in the garage and now ready to try out the Pegas starter pack of blades I have. So I’m a happy camper at last. Now, about wood - - - Walking through a box store, I see “Whitewood” in various sizes and would like to get anyone’s opinions on how it is for cutting compared to pine.

Very cool. Reminds me of the bird we would get as a kid that would drink water.

FrankEV recently created this and told us about it in the thread: Parrot and Peony - Bragging Rights - Scroll Saw Village Here is a photo of my attempt: And here it is hanging with other birds on a wall in our (very small) downstairs Loo: This is cut from 3mm thick Baltic Birch plywood and the backer board is the same material. I painted the backer using many different acrylic paints. I found it hard to locate the correct colours exactly behind the holes that I had cut. The painting was much more difficult than the sawing and I won't be doing anything like it any time soon. The frame is made from 1/4-sawn White Oak and I gave that a distressed look by first painting the frame then sanding off some of the paint. Everything was finished using clear gloss "rattle-can" stuff.

This is what I have been working on this week. Using lathe and scroll saw. about 7" long tanker. I have made 20 of each so far

I tried a couple of mini chucks from different sources. The 3 split chucks do not work well. However, the Dremel 4 split chuck does work but only works in a Dremel. I posted the following a few months ago and it has worked very well since: The Dremel drill press as is, because of it is only 3" from the bit to the post, is imparactical to use for drilling blade holes in almost any fretwork larger than 6" wide. However, I had the idea in my head I could do something to make it work and Home Depot near me had the Dremel Drill Press/Tool Station in stock for $45. I took a chance (knowing I could return it if I could not make it work) and bought it this morning. After I got it home and did some investigating how I could make it work the light bulb lit up in my brain and this was the result. There is a shelf above my workbench that was just the correct height to allow me to mount the base upside down. I slid the Drill press body on the post opposite of what is normal. The press can be rotated around the post allowing it to be swung out of the way if necessary. I use a piece of 1/4" ply as a drill backer and set the stop so the bit will not punch into the workbench top. Very easy to locate the bit ove the point where the hole is needed. From the bit to the wall is about 11" so as positioned it can accomodate panels up to about 22" wide.

I always change black lines to red. That way the blade doesn't get lost in the line.

I use a grey fill with red outline, I find it easier to see those pesky tiny blades. But there again my eyesight is no longer 20/20

Only you can tell what works best for you....

What is your color line to cut on? I have Always used a Black line. Read in another Post that cutting on a Red Line is more Relaxing. Pros n Cons Please......................Danny :+}

Another H.Botas pattern. Some of the cuts are razor thin, the branches, for instance, I would run my blade up one side on the first pass, turn, then coming down the other side there were a lot of places where I was just shaving the kerf a little bit wider. Used Pegas #3MG blades, 3/4" whiteboard from Lowes.

Nice setup Frank. Good thing you had that shelf above the workbench!

One of my first sales on Etsy went to France. Selling price was $48 including shipping, but shipping cost me $42, add it the cost of supplies and wood, and I would have been better off using the piece for firewood. LOL Lesson learned.

I use black. I have tried red but it wasn't any better for me. I find good lighting is more important than line color.

You did an Excellent job on that box.

Wow they are amazing. They were well worth the stress. I also love the colors. Marg

Perfect in everyway!!!

I've only seen work like this from obsessed scrollers!!!

Those are stunning! I love the colors you used. They really pop!

I was just going to post that as well! Nice job Les.

This is one exceptional cutting!!!

This is certainly nothing to brag about but, I made this old fashioned car from a pattern in a 2012 Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts mag azine for my 8 year old grand-son. The rear wheels turn a cam which makes the driver bounce up and down. It really made me feel good when he told me how much he liked it but, it made me feel even better when he turned it over and examined how the mechanism works! Young children have a brain like a sponge and I want to encourage him to use his mind in any way imaginable, God Bless! Spirithorse

Nyuc nyuc nyuc!!!

The skills it took to complete this one !!!!

Be aware that the 26 incher takes up a lot of space. That's why I sold mine. I have a very small shop. If you have room, no sweat.

I,ve wanted to do this since I first seen it and today it happened. Thanks Jerry..

Thank you Melanie!!!

In spring issue 82 of the mag

Woo Hoo ! The Wahuda 8" jointer came in today! Two down, one to go...and the table saw is due in to Lowe's today just waiting for a call.

Hi Stoney. You said in another post you liked low maintenance things. So do I. That's why I love my Hegners. I've done a lot of mechanical work in my lifetime and loved it but not any longer at age 82. If I were younger I would add a Pegas to my shop. I like the color and I would do larger fret work being it is top feeder. I would also be capable of maintaining it but no longer. I could really care less what saw people use as long as it does what they want and are happy. But what the heck do I know? Good conversation.

Thanks for the advise. I did get it and could not be happier. I will look into the easy lift system also. Thanks

I use micro bits, bought by the dozen. I use a dremel tool with an extremely small collet. I put the dremel in the plunge router base and drill my holes that way.

@Angelo I have tips on breaking bandsaw blades! First is pay attention to the width of the blade and the tightness of the curves you are trying to cut. This shows a guide for how tight your curves can be. Pinching the blade in a tight curve creates a lot of heat build-up in the blade which makes it weak and more likely to break. The second tip that I give my students is to let the blade do the cutting, don't force feed wood into the machine.

If a pattern needs enlarging I have it done in red. Otherwise I cut on black. I don't know how to use inkscape.

Thanks to ALL for your comments. I did Learn a thing or two with your comments. One is the setting of the Light and also where your sitting (yes I sit to scroll) Old Legs just aren't like the used to be. I never learned to use the Magnifier that comes along with the Light. I am still going to Experiment with cutting on a Red Line. Thanks again My Friends..................Danny :+}

I got this from Home depot they do have a smaller one for $140. https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-3-5-Amp-10-in-2-Speed-Band-Saw-with-Stand-and-Worklight-3962/206587103 Happy with mine

I have found, I use different blades on my Seyco than on the Hegner to accomplish the same thing. I use more aggressive blades on the Hegner than on the Seyco.

The time difference is not saved on the DeWalt, you would have to spend that amount of time working on the De Walt to keep it running..... maintence, repairs,,,, Okay I'm just kidding,,,, just funning you all. Oh, crap, I am boycotted for sure now.