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I have been working on compound cuts. I just wanted to get better and more comfortable with them. This is my latest one. The clock was cut from walnut. The shell and snail is cut from red cedar, the swan from popular. The bottom is weighted with lead.

Saw this pattern and had to try it. Started out on quarter inch HD (baltic?) birch with a 2/0 blade and then tried a #5 for a couple of the ants. Got another lesson - a piece of the bottom ant head broke off. Guess I should have used solid wood? And maybe add a category on the forum called Oopsies! Lord knows I'll be making more of them!

I designed these very basic alignment blocks in Fusion 360 and printed them on my Prusa 3D printer. The scroll blade fits into the slot snuggly making it a quick affair to set up a repeatable angle of 0, 2.0 , 2.5, 3.0 and 3.5 degrees left tilt. They took about an hour each to print and cost about 50 cents in plastic (each). I will no doubt print more angles as the need arises but this is what I got so far. I enclosed the STL files if you wanted to print these yourself. 3.0L-2021.stl 3.5L-2021.stl 2.5L-2021.stl 2.0L-2021.stl 0-2021.stl

3/4" Pine from HD using Pegas #5R Modified Geometry blades. Took about 8 hours over two days. And boy, oh boy, did I get some experience with the letters (as in, "Man, That's Hard!"). And a lesson in how fragile pine is. The 2nd e in "need" snapped in two where it loops around and meets itself when I removed the pattern (at least I think that's when it happened). I was able to glue the piece back using wood glue, so am happy about that. Used the duck brand shelf liner and Krylon Easy Tack spray adhesive. Now to figure out what to do with it - clear coat/paint/stain/backing. The cutting was slow, but I am getting more comfortable with cuts and turns. Still working on relaxing, but I'm aware of it and working on that. All in all, I'm happy with it (another Steve Good pattern).

well this is a few things I’ve done since thanksgiving till now. How you enjoy some of gators gifts.

Hello to all, I joined the forum recently and I am very happy to show you my very first work ! It is of course not perfect but I enjoyed doing it. It is a light box based on the following https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2018/11/leaf-light-box-scroll-saw-pattern.html I modified it a little bit, I used plywood of 3mm thick and led lights replaced the classic bulb and cord. It was a great first project and look forward to my next one Thank you Stork30

Great idea! Now I can tell the wife I really NEED a 3D printer lol

My daughter's best friend had to put her pet bunny down the other day. I had posted a photo in the hopes of having a pattern made but it was to dark. This is what I came up with. I hope she likes it. I know my daughter certainly did. This is solid cherry wood cut with Pegas mg #3.

I just love all my life cutting with #12-#9-#7 blades. Get in and get out quick and simple, always moving forward. Now having done some (a lot ) of projects for Rdatelle with his advice I fell in love with fine tooth blades! Even in 3/4" thick oak they performed beautifully. No where near as fast a cutting speed much like cutting with a spiral. Let the saw do the work. This project here I wanted to do but the pattern was not up to par. So high detail us scrollers are used to deminished. Thanks for looking!!!

Made this happen for brother in law.

I made these earlier in the year for my son a Man U fan, and his mate a Leeds fan, my sons is on his desk at work, I made detachable feet for it, and his mates is in his mancave at home, both are made from 1" thick Indian Rosewood from a repurposed table top, both finished with homemade Bees Wax

It looks great. Just remember that you are the only one that knows when a piece is broke or lost a small piece no one else will notice until you point it out. Marg

After seeing this I am beginning to think I will NEVER run out of things to do with my scroll saw. Wow! Excellent work!

JimErn I copied this response from a Google search. I think in reality, the two are used interchangeably. Marquetry is a decorative technique where wood veneers are sawn into a pattern and then assembled like a jigsaw. Inlay is similar but instead of assembling a large panel of veneer, the decoration is inset into a recess cut into a larger panel of wood.

Great work for a first project. Dan mentioned using printer paper of velum on the inside to make it look a little more finished. I totally agree. Another choice is to put some 1/8" thk colored plexiglass inside. It would add a lot to the project. I'm attaching a photo of a lamp I did a while ago to give you some idea. You can find the Plexiglass on line.

I have been very unhappy with the one original DeWalt light that came with my DeWalt 788 Scroll saw. I've tried several alternatives, including halogen drafting board lights. Having two lights, one on each side of the saw made a big difference in reducing the shadows around the blade, and whiter brighter lights also helped. The halogen lights worked, but they were very hot. I frequently burned my forehead on them and after cutting with them all day the backs of my hands would get sunburned, but I continued to use these lights, while looking for something better. I recently found and purchased two of these LED lights to mount on my Dewalt 788 scroll saw in place of the single original DeWalt light Shop Style Selections 15-in Adjustable Brushed Steel LED Clip-On Desk Lamp with Metal Shade at Lowes.com I designed and built a bracket to mount two of these lights to the upper arm of my DeWalt 788 saw, after my initial plan of clipping the lights to the rear of the saw table failed, because I kept bumping into the clamps with my work. The new bracket that I made wraps around the upper arm of the saw just ahead of the DeWalt label, and extends out from both sides of the saw arm. Each side extension of this bracket has a hole where I attached one of the lights, after removing it from it’s original clamp. Only a slight trimming of the bottom edge of the plastic piece that holds the saw speed control and power switch is necessary. The rest of the saw does not have to be modified to add these lights and bracket. Adding the bracket and attaching the lights to it required dis-assembly of the lamp head by removing the two screws in the plastic lens of the lamp. The lens and PC board with the LEDs attached to it can then be removed from the lamp head. Un-solder the wires from the back side of the PC board. Then remove the wires from the flex tube, and then remove the original clamp from the base of the goose neck. After installing the base of the goose neck on my new bracket I then re-threaded the wires up through the the goose neck tube into the lamp head, re-soldered the wires in their correct positions, and then re-assembled the lamp head. There is a small flat on the back edge of both the PC board and the lens that must point toward the goose neck as the lamp head is assembled. The same was done with the second lamp. The lights run on low voltage DC, so it's necessary to maintain the correct polarity of the wires when they are re-attached. There are tiny + and - signs on the PC board and one of the wires has a line of - signs on it, so it attaches to the poing with the - next to it. The other wire by default is the + wire, so it attaches to the point with the + sign next to it. I twisted the wires from both lamps loosely together and routed them back along the left side of the upper saw arm fixing them in place with tie-wraps. The switches for the two lights ended up along side of the rear saw frame casting, so I attached them to this casting, one above the other, with double sided carpet tape. Between the switches and the power supply/plugs there are several feet of additional wire that would easily reach a wall outlet if one was directly behind the scroll saw, but I have mounted a power strip to the left side of the rear leg of the saw stand, so I loosely twisted the wires together and then plugged the lights in to this power strip. The saw and foot switch for the saw are also plugged into this power strip. I’ve now been using these LED lights for almost 6 months and find them ideal for my purpose. They are very bright and emit a very white, non-flickering light that is perfect for scroll sawing. Being able to easily position them on each side and slightly forward of the blade and shining down at about a 45 deg angle at the blade eliminates all of the blade shadows and makes it very easy to follow the lines of my patterns. Running all day long the lamp housings never heat up to much over 80 or so degrees, so I never burn my head on them either. These lights would make great auxiliary lighting for most any shop tool and the price is right to have many of them, either mounted on their original clamps or on specially made brackets. I now own 7 of them, not only on my two scroll saws, but also on my band saw and drill presses. Be careful not to buy the weighted desk top version of these lights. The base of the flexible shaft looks the same but it is different than the one with the spring clamp shown in the link above. If you buy one of these it will be much harder to modify for use on a bracket, like I did. Attached are photos of this installation on my DeWalt 788. I'm now in the process of making a slightly different bracket to mount two more of these LED lights to my Delta Q3 40-650 scroll saw. If you are unhappy with the lighting on your scroll saw and have difficulty seeing where the blade is cutting because of the strobe like shadows being caused with the one light and the upper blade grip, then this modification will solve all of it for less than $45. They are great unmodified for use on other tools too. Charley

I like deer projects - they always looks great. Here is my latest cutting - deer family Deers Pattern Video of making Deers project

A couple off the saw lately.

Looks like bass wood to me. I like scrolling it especially if I can get slabs with bark on the sides..

If you found it in the craft area it is either Bass or Balsa wood. If you found it in the kitchen area it is propbaply wood intended to be used for serving/cooking food like Susi. You can find nice Cedar planks about that same size, about 1/4"(-) thick for cooking fish on in specialty kitchen ware shops. As the package says, made in China so you will probably never know what it is.

nice idea and they look great. The one in the very back, by the blade. Is that a 90 to get you back after changing that blade angle? I do like this.

Congrats on your find. Wondering if it is bass wood. Very light in color and weight, no real grain pattern so it's pretty plain looking wood. It is like one step above Balsa wood and tons of people use it for crafts . Regardless happy to hear of your delightful discovery. Hope you find more. One last thought, it's a great wood paint, does not stain well for crap.

Thanks Frank, I'll give the Red Oak a try.

OOOOooo! I have a friend with a printer!

Pretty cool. I also find the 3D printers fascinating.

I never put clear tape directly to the wood. It is a pain to get off and very easy to miss a sliver during removal that will show up when you are putting on a finish. Painters tape for very small projects or removable Contact brand shelf liner (clear) for the rest of the projects. except on Intarsia there the pattern goes directly on the wood since it gets sanded off during shaping anyway .

Hello everyone, Thank you very much for the nice words ! I admit, for a first project is was ambitious ! But working with wood is something I love to do so I jumped in and patiently worked on it. It is not perfect, I need to work on my straight lines and turns but overall I am happy with the result, I was scared to make a mistake along the way and ruin it but I didn't, I thought about finishing it with tracing paper inside, but since I don't have a single bulb but 10 micro led I wanted to keep the raw look and be able to see the led inside. Working on the thin plywood was not difficult, now for my next project I think I will work on ash wood or beech wood, I will take easier patterns to practice I see on this forum so many amazing work, i love the details and the precision on the cuts. I don't have a lot of spare time but hopefully I will get there one day Thank you, take care and I will be back soon with a new addition

I've had much said about what comes out of my mind over the years, but interesting and insight are rarely heard in the comments.... Learn? Yeah. Remember? Nah, unless it's something that you've relied on for a living over a decade or so...which enables scoring fairly well on a pop quiz. There is a lot more where that came from, but is it useful?

This pattern called for the 1 1/2” board be split, I had two 3/4” pieces. The inside cuts on the top piece was cut then glued to the back half, then the side pattern placed on ( there were registration marks) and the compound cutting completed.

I only see one ant carrying something. The bottom ant.

Really nice work with that 2/0 blade! Those ants look super to me!

That is a great box! Thanks for the information. An will have to check out there website too.

Welcome to the Village Elvena! Lots of folks here willing to help out. Feel free to ask Questions. Tell us a little about yourself such as Country, state and city so we can tailor answers to you.

I always felt that marquetry was the true measure of a man as they say when it came to the scroll saw. It just seems like the master level stuff we all would eventually want to stride for. I have watched a few videos and tried it but it looked terrible. Now I might have to give it another go with these links and tips here.

I had a real good craft show last fall and I decided to treat myself to a new tool. If I had the money all my tools would be “FESTOOL” This dust extractor is the best, I had to fight with my wife for the use of it during our kitchen reno. Might get a few more attachments but so far I am quite please.

Finished The Rifleman Chuck Connors and Johnny Crawford as Lucas and Mark McCain. Loved this show growing up. Chuck Connors played Major League Baseball with the Cubs, played in the NBA with the Boston Celtics, and had a successful acting career. Don't you just hate people like that. 1/2" Red Oak with wormy Black Walnut backer.

Now that's an interesting tip. One I don't remember seeing before. I'll check myself next time I cut.

You did a great job, lettering is not easy. Well done. Tip...Do you find your head is tilted one way or the other??? You will not cut a straight line if it is, take it from me, I know. Marg

Nicely done! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Nice cutting. I can't tell where it broke off. Next time maybe try poplar if you want to use a hardwood. Poplar is easier to cut (IMO) and is less prone to breaking.

You are right but he is very fair. If a tool doesn't stand up to his scrutiny, he says so but he will also praise one if it does pass. I just like seeing how he goes about it.

+jerrye Thanks for the education on tape. Any day we can learn something ( and remember it ) is a good day. Gee I hope he don't plan on a pop quiz over this .

I actually found it interesting. Thanks for the insight!

Made one for a friend a few years back using the 1lb=1cu.in. rule. Russian Orthodox cross on the front & some of his favorite things on the back. He liked the water so I secured the top with a Spanish windlass.

I made 4 urns a couple of years ago, sized to fit the plastic egg that cat cremation remains come back in, so the sides are 5" X 5" outside and about 1/2" thick. The top and bottom are slightly larger to allow for the molding cut around the edges. These were made from mahogany with mitered corners and cross grained splines inserted in each corner top to bottom. I used 4 #6 stainless screws pocket holed from the inside to attach the top, one screw in the center of each side. The bottom is also attached with the same screws, but counterbored up from the bottom. Two of these (on opposite sides) are off center to make the bottom only fit on one way. I made two inserts with center holes the diameter needed to keep the bottom and top of the plastic egg container centered in the urn after the egg had been installed. Two of these urns were intended for my last two cats, who were both very special, but when making something, I frequently make extras to assure that I can get the quantity that I want without errors or last step finishing nightmares. After completion I had decided to give the remaining two away. One went to my neighbor who had a cat that survived 26 years. The remaining spare urn has just sat in my shop for the last two years. Last week I donated this last urn for a very close friend, who had contracted COVID-19 a few days before Christmas, became ill on January 4 with severe breathing problems and ended up in the hospital. He seemed to be doing well for about a week, but then he got progressively worse and died on January 16 at the age of 68. He had played Santa Claus for the local park every year for the last 6 years, and he was the best Santa, both in his manor and appearance, that I've ever seen in my lifetime. He had the hair and beard for it too. His girl friend played Mrs. Santa and the two worked together very well. His family has decided to divide his remains and they have purchased two full size urns from the Funeral Home. His girl friend has has been offered some of his remains, so a cat urn should be large enough for her share, and she has gratefully accepted this last urn from me. It couldn't have gone for a better purpose. I will be printing a small photo of him in his Santa outfit, along with some text being decided by his girl friend, sized to fit on the face side of this urn. This photo will be plastic laminated and then attached to the face side of the urn some time later. The train in the photo is located in our town park, and I met Keith while I was driving this train 4 years ago. He was not only Santa there, but the train and carousel maintenance man and bus driver too. Charley

Seeing how we have gotten on what we want for last wishes. I told my wife I want my 6 feet of land. Only land that the bank can’t take from me lol

Straight cremation, no service, no nothing. If you can’t be bothered while I am here, don’t bother when I’m not. Straight from my grandma.

Very nice urn. But why did you put my initials on it??? Don't you like me...are you trying to tell me something?? What did I do to you?