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Sold 3 hearts too a lady for her kids teachers. other one just a sign.

Finally got my #3 blades in the mail and started on this. 3/4" Pine with the Horse letters of the pattern still on. Another Steve Good piece. This will add to our granddaughter's collection, who has a bazillion toy horses already. This was fun to do and I'm sure I'll be making more puzzles.

Jaws is my favorite movie, and 2020 was the 45th Anniversary of the iconic movies release. So i decided to take the famous movie poster and turn it into a Scroll Saw Pattern. Hope you all like it and enjoy the video I made as Well ! This was my first pattern I designed. #ArtisanPirate https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3mRbupvdZg&t=221s

These were a request from a shop owner where my daughter sell some of her jewelry. Both made from 3/4in pine with scrap booking paper on the front. It doesn't show very well in the photo but the love paper's got small hearts over it. The Love pattern is one of Steve Goods but I altered it a little. Marg

In another post under “Scrollers Q&A” I asked about what projects I should/could do with some beautiful Walnut and Soft Maple I just acquired. A box, made of a combination of Walnut and Maple, was suggested in a number of the replies. The walnut plank was 3/4” X 17” X 8’ but had a large knot hole in one end. I was able to cut about 14”off the end with the hole and cut the cut off up into a number of pieces. I was able to cut up the cut off into the various sized pieces I needed for this project and actually re-sawed them into 1/4” thickness on the table saw. (I do not have a band saw so, not the best way, but my only choice). This nominal 5" X7" Tribal Box is a Steve Good pattern which I followed, but not really. I did not cut the boxes from thick material but instead formed them from the 1/4” material I salvaged from the cut off pieces. I did use the fret work patterns except that I stack cut and only cut half of the top pattern and opened it like a book to apply to the top. I also stack cut the bottom scroll work also. The top projecting pediment was the only piece that was a single layer. I mitered the corners of the boxes and bottom fretwork at the vertical belt sander and used my strap clamp to hold it square while the glue dried. I rounded the corners of the boxes and the Maple top and bottom slabs at the sander. After some hand sanding with 100 and then 600 grit paper I applied a coat of Lacquer sanding sealer, then finished sanding with1500 grit paper and finally applied multiple coats of spray clear gloss Lacquer. OK, so does anyone know what a Tribal Box is used for?

I like your box very much Frank. My guess is that such a box is made following "tribal" traditions and can be used for whatever the "tribe" that created the box deemed appropriate. For example, here is a photo of a bentwood box that I made and out of a single white cedar plank using traditional Haida sawing, steaming, and carving techniques and traditions:

I sandwiched the paper between the pine and some scrap ply, cut out the pattern. Put finish on the inside cuts, the back and sides. I then rolled glue onto the front of the pine and the back of the paper and stuck the two together. I put a couple of coats of Mod Podge on the paper and sanded very lightly with a 2500 grit sand paper between coats. Hope this helps. Marg

Here is a video from Silas Kopf which shows the double bevel method. His works are top end work. I prefer the stacked or packet method as they are much easier to do as you can stack up to 16 layers of veneer in one cutting and cut every thing all at once and then just assemble it in the back ground which you just cut as well. Also octoolguy thanks for the complement....:) and it seems there are a lot of marquetry class and iinstructors out there in Cal , as one of them that I took was in San Diego.

I'm really embarrassed about this. I thought (my first mistake) my Jet table saw just died. It slowed down to a crawl and just quit. It never tripped the breaker. I felt the motor and it was extremely hot. I just assumed it was shot. That was my 2nd mistake. Anyway. a few days later ( Monday evening) i decided to take a look at my owners manual. Lo and behold it has a reset switch on the motor. I never saw it because it was covered in saw dust. My 3rd mistake. I pushed it and reset the motor. I'm now back up and running. Saw is all cleaned up also. Sorry for the panic. My only excuse is I'm 81 and getting old and things just don't work like they used too including my brain. I want to thank everyone for the comments and offer to help. I'll try not to jump to conclusions in the future. Thanks again everyone PS: Everyone is so kind and helpfull on this forum. Ben

Finished this little guy up. Made a couple of changes and I am very happy with him.

I designed these very basic alignment blocks in Fusion 360 and printed them on my Prusa 3D printer. The scroll blade fits into the slot snuggly making it a quick affair to set up a repeatable angle of 0, 2.0 , 2.5, 3.0 and 3.5 degrees left tilt. They took about an hour each to print and cost about 50 cents in plastic (each). I will no doubt print more angles as the need arises but this is what I got so far. I enclosed the STL files if you wanted to print these yourself. 3.0L-2021.stl 3.5L-2021.stl 2.5L-2021.stl 2.0L-2021.stl 0-2021.stl

No idea what it's used for but it looks good. Marg

Hello to all, I joined the forum recently and I am very happy to show you my very first work ! It is of course not perfect but I enjoyed doing it. It is a light box based on the following https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2018/11/leaf-light-box-scroll-saw-pattern.html I modified it a little bit, I used plywood of 3mm thick and led lights replaced the classic bulb and cord. It was a great first project and look forward to my next one Thank you Stork30

Paul, I did take a marquetry class. In fact, marquetry is what started me in scrolling. I was at our County Fair about 5 years ago the the woodworkers group was out there as usual but this year was different. There was a guy there who had built his own foot powered saw that was different than anything I had ever seen and it intrigued me so I stood and watched him cut a few pieces of his picture. Anyway, long story short, he gave me his card and invited me to come attend one of his classes. I did that and was so interested I just had to buy my first saw. If you want to try it the same way he taught the art, I recommend buying this book. "The Art of Marquetry" by Craig Vandall Stevens. I bought it from Amazon and I think it was only about $15. It gives great pictorial views on exactly the same method that I was taught by Ken Cowell. The strange thing is though that I never went any further with it. I got side-tracked on other forms of scrolling. What I did learn from it though is that you have to have some project intended to use your finished marquetry on. A box, a cabinet, a table top or something to use it for. And, whatever you apply it to, you have to attach something to the back of whatever you attach it to. I guess it's like any other laminated object in that you have to have offsetting pressures so the board doesn't warp in one direction. Am I making myself understood? I'm not sure. Anyway, get the book and read it. You'll have a much better understanding once you do. I did this little leaf/stem as the first project. I bought another pattern/kit from him along with the woods. They are still laying on my bench where I put them 5 years ago.

I have spent in the past to much money to get a case for my iPhone. I found pictures and a video on YouTube and tried these myself. The first in I made was Cherry. To thin and to soft, it broke when I dropped it. Next was walnut and it came out pretty nice. Next was worm eaten ash and I really like it. The grain is beautiful. Next I’m going to try hickory as soon as it warms up in the garage. Thanks for looking.

I made this for one of my granddaughters ( her choice) who loves butterflys. It is made from blue pine, Western Red Cedar frame, and stained BB background. Deft satin lacquer finish. Looks like the frame is smaller at the bottom and not at 90 degrees. It's just me and my picture taking skills that's off. It's a pattern from Wooden Teddy Bear

That tune means the swimmer is DONE.

Cute!

Looks good. Well done. Marg

I bet the smell of saw dust was like heaven. Great looking cut. Marg

I learned what little I know with the help of courses available on Udemy.com. Udemy courses are usually on sale for less than $20. Here is the course that I took that got me started.. The printer has software as well. The printer's software converts the CAD file into a file that the printer understands (which is Gcode). All printers use Gcode but since all printers have different dimensions and travel lengths etc, most printers have their own program to spit out already printer specific Gcode to make things easier. That program usually comes with the printer and is called a "slicer". Basically if you had a printer and a slicer, you could run my STL files through the slicer and generate Gcode specific for your printer.

If you want a dependable printer you cant go wrong with the Prusa mark 3.. This is the Youtube video I watched that convinced me that Prusa was the way to go.. BTW, the guy who did that video isn't even talking about printers, he is telling a story about how amazed he was with how useful a 3d printer was.

I was expecting Mr. Ed. Great job.

Very, very well done cutting!

Ya,, he usually does one for the winner of all the big games in each sport. My Cubs pattern in the first post is Steve's pattern. I'm just impatient! LOL

I think you'll need a bandsaw with ample horsepower, at least a 6" jointer, and a decent planner for a good job. You'll still need some really good blades for the resawing. Good luck, Phil.

Frank, Your box is outstanding. I really love that Lacquer finish. Another fantastic project!

I can't agree more with your statement.. and it's just like the scroll saw.. buy cheap and work your way up or buy a high end large one to accommodate your every need... I have a Nextwave HD4 CNC 24 x 24 inch work area router with water cooled spindle.. I went big on my first CNC.. well there is bigger and better.. I went with the K40 laser because I wanted power to cut through at least 1/8" material.. But the size of the work area of the K40 limited to 8 x 12 inch. I already want to go bigger with this.. More power isn't really necessary for me with the K40 at this point anyway.. There was talk on a laser group I'm in and one guy says he bought a 20 Watt Diode laser and then got a K40.. the diode laser took 30+ minutes to engrave a drink coaster.. same design in the K40 was 3 minutes.. and they was talking about fiber lasers.. and that would take about 30 - 40 seconds.. But that fiber laser price tag for a cheap one is about $6000 and that is a very small work area.. like maybe 8 x 8 inch.. LOL So I say buy the biggest and most power one you can.. They are addictive just like the scroll saw.. Do your research and get something you can grow into.. I've only used my K40 about 15 hours.. already know I want a larger work area one..

I always find what ever you have you always want bigger I have a CNC shapeoko3 and a Laser NEJE master2 20w and I wish both were bigger but you buy cheap to test them out and once you know you can master them you want better but I must admit it's great scrolling while the tools work on there own. Roly

Interesting! I would like to know how you did this. It turned out great!

What about the little pieces that get stuck between the table and the collector? I do love the new technology available to us. The 3d printers are great. The next thing I would do is make a reducer from the 2" hose to one that adapts to my Festool collection. Or re-design the piece you just installed to incorporate a smaller connection. OMG am I talking myself into a 3d printer

Very pretty !! Did you glue the paper onto the wood before you cut ?

Finished this Black Lab, pattern is from Gayle in scrollers Cafe. Did this after my surgery. edward

Travis, you are blessed with a wonderful woodworking talent, and I thank you for blessing others with a demonstration of your knowledge and skills. SSV is my "go to" scrolling site!

Yeah I have that chart too somewhere.. I suppose it'd do better if I'd print it and have it in the shop and by my computer..LOL

Don't get me wrong, I like the blades.. and I've had very little issue with them in the Excalibur and minimal issues with the Hawk.. Biggest complaint from me is the inconsistent length.. I like the cutting better than the FD blades.. but I'm not sure I like it enough to have to keep trimming off the ends so they actually work in the Hawk saws..

Hi, I found this in my download folder while housekeeping my folders and remembered this message. The list is not complete but I thought it might help a little, drill size wise. SS_BLADE_CHART_2-22-2013.pdf

At long last I may have found my niche - on this site, as well as in my scrolling. I am a rank amateur when it comes to scrolling and marquetry and have read many of the books referenced by others. I am addicted to watching videos offered by popular streaming services. I began with a Craftsman saw and, having gotten my feet wet, soon replaced In with a Dewalt DW 788. In an era of Covid, traveling from my location, and at my age, are out of the question. That rules out formal classes, such as many responders have reported experiencing. A forum dedicated to marquetry would serve two purposes. First, it would allow for a more focused set of sub-topics. Veneer sources, diy veneer presses, discussion of practical issues - these are a few examples of what I am referring to. The second purpose is simply this: to provide an opportunity for the camaraderie that goes with sharing a common interest and assisting others with our own experiences and ideas. Count me in for further discussions!

I just purchsed that Dewalt saw on Amazon. Expecting delivery this coming Thursday. I guess you did not see my query "Which Table Saw" in Scroller Q&A just a few days ago.

nice idea and they look great. The one in the very back, by the blade. Is that a 90 to get you back after changing that blade angle? I do like this.

OOOOooo! I have a friend with a printer!

I made these earlier in the year for my son a Man U fan, and his mate a Leeds fan, my sons is on his desk at work, I made detachable feet for it, and his mates is in his mancave at home, both are made from 1" thick Indian Rosewood from a repurposed table top, both finished with homemade Bees Wax

Fantastic work, gator! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

I always felt that marquetry was the true measure of a man as they say when it came to the scroll saw. It just seems like the master level stuff we all would eventually want to stride for. I have watched a few videos and tried it but it looked terrible. Now I might have to give it another go with these links and tips here.

all i can say is WOW!!! there all beyond great peices!!!

Did your parents give you a scroll saw for your first birthday? Superb work!

Maybe one of our marquetry pros can put together a step-by-step tutorial of a simple project and we could all get started. Wink, wink. I'd be willing to join in.

Gorgeous scrolling!

Hi, Scrappile, I love marquetry also but, I have not yet tried it. I was curious about the difference between inlay and marquetry techniques and found this article Double Bevel Marquetry - David J. Marks The same David J. Marks seems to have quite a few DVD's on the subject and there also seem to be a lot of YouTube videos by several different people. I can hardly wait to see your efforts because I anticipate you will have the itch to try this soon than later. God Bless! Spirithorse

fantastic work, the holster is amazing