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Slowly adding to the walls of my shop. Some of the better art was done by my grandkids around the Pop's Shop sign. Sections are TV and Movie personalities, Cowboys, and Music. Does me good to spend time among them.

Been a bit behind on posting finished work, here are several cuttings I have finished up lately. As always thank you to all the pattern designers who share their work with us. You folks make me look good. jim

I like to make nautical projects, this time it is ship shadowbox. I made less layers (4) than usual, despite this project has nice 3D and deapth effect. Video of making Ship project Ship pattern

Life going a bit cr*p just now so not had chance to make much saw dust, but finally found some time so got 3 pictures cut, jimmy Hendrix,Janis Jopplin and Bob Marley they are all cut on 12mm ply and are A3 in size 11 x 16 inch sprayed with a clear lacquer, am not over happy with the Janis Jopplin but its what was asked for, still to put a black backer on the Bob Marley as his face is floating and will be glue to the backer but i am kind of undecided as to try a Jamaican back ground with thick stripes of colour

Knocked this out before 9am. Gonna be a good day. Customer wants to paint it. About 26” wide.

So after reading all the responses (thanks all) of what to do with my scraps, I've decided to make the following Children's sets. When I place patterns for cutting, in all the gaps, I also place any of these smaller patterns giving me a lot less scrap overall. It also allows me to use the new scrap pieces I get from the local lumber yard they are giving me. These sets are made from Basswood and Pine scraps and can be painted/colored and are becoming fairly popular at our events. I have several more made from Oak and poplar scraps as well Thanks as always in advance

I'm really embarrassed about this. I thought (my first mistake) my Jet table saw just died. It slowed down to a crawl and just quit. It never tripped the breaker. I felt the motor and it was extremely hot. I just assumed it was shot. That was my 2nd mistake. Anyway. a few days later ( Monday evening) i decided to take a look at my owners manual. Lo and behold it has a reset switch on the motor. I never saw it because it was covered in saw dust. My 3rd mistake. I pushed it and reset the motor. I'm now back up and running. Saw is all cleaned up also. Sorry for the panic. My only excuse is I'm 81 and getting old and things just don't work like they used too including my brain. I want to thank everyone for the comments and offer to help. I'll try not to jump to conclusions in the future. Thanks again everyone PS: Everyone is so kind and helpfull on this forum. Ben

Question: What does everyone thing of Red Oak?? I cut this guy from Red Oak I just bought and talk about a pain in the butt. Very brittle! Used English oak stain.

Red Oak is great for picture frames but not the best for cuttings, especially thin panels. If Red Oak is a look that you want you can get Red Oak 1/4" x 12" x 19.5"Panels solid core plywood in boxes of 10 from Home Dedpot. Free delivery to your location. I have purchased their Cherry, Oak, Mahagony and Birch in addition to my go to panels of Maple and Walnut. Not quite as cheep as BB Ply, but very nice quality product. Your cutting looks good. Any plans to mount it on a backer for display? Right now, like the "real" Bigfoot, very invisable.

Simple hack I found on tape measures. Get some sawtooth picture hangers and nail them to the side of the bench or other areas. Clip the tape measure to the sawtooth. RJF

It is for the Buffalo Bills. I have wanted to do this for a while, but finally found time. Growing up in Western New York, being a Bills fan is required. They had a good season this year and looking forward to next year. Go Bills!

Maybe you need to design it with a hole and attach them to the saw stand or? close to the saw where the chain is long enough to reach the saw blade without unhooking it.. maybe you won't loose it, LOL.. Me.. I'd still loose it forgetting it was attached to the saw stand,

Outstanding review! Thanks.. I need this for that lamp project (which is coming along nicely so far).

Campfire. Oooops Lol! Yeah, what to do with stuff that you rarely use. Me too. I am thinking that I would like to have a go at making inlays etc so I have these blocks but will I be able to find them when I need them? I am sure they will end up in a drawer.. Another thing to keep track of Lol! I have lost my tape measure so many times that I now have a special home for it on a wall clip. Pencils and pens .. always missing. I recall a guy give me advice on how not to lose a pen. He said "Go out and buy a pen that costs $100, I guarantee you wont lose it." Its funny because it is true Lol!

Like winning the lottery....kind of. Glad you are back in bidness!

I don't like using plywood for some projects so I glue up hardwood for wider projects. Personally, I think it looks better. And, unless you make a frame you cannot cover the plywood edges. I don't like that. Just my opinion.

I did ordered some marquetry kits at least 15 years ago which consists of the solid oak board with the design printed on it and then all the different colours of veneer to cut and glue to the oak board. Also I noticed that there is still some kits available on Etsy. Here is a couple of kits that I did.

Here is a video from Silas Kopf which shows the double bevel method. His works are top end work. I prefer the stacked or packet method as they are much easier to do as you can stack up to 16 layers of veneer in one cutting and cut every thing all at once and then just assemble it in the back ground which you just cut as well. Also octoolguy thanks for the complement....:) and it seems there are a lot of marquetry class and iinstructors out there in Cal , as one of them that I took was in San Diego.

Tommy Lee Jones. Great actor! Cut in 1/2" mystery wood.

I spotted a Spectra Tools scroll saw, new in the box for sale on Facebook Marketplace in my area. I have never heard of a Spectra Tools scroll saw and Google searches weren't much luck. I reached out to the owner and she said it was purchased at Walmart several years back but just never made it out of the box. It's only $50 but I'm worried about replacement parts. Any insight would be welcome. -Frank

Sorry about the typo well spotted frank

Pretty cool. I like it.

scrollerpete, ........ I forgot to mention, nice looking work. What method did you use to cut it? Richard

Guess there's always the ceiling.

Lots of great work nicely displayed! Wish I had empty walls. What will happen when you run out of space?

Why did the saw overheat? Were you overloading it, or is a bearing or two going bad? Without power, can you spin the blade easily by hand? It may be time for new bearings. Charley

I have the "Original Prusa i3 MK3S". I gave some consideration this way and that about buying the kit and if I remember correctly the preassembled version was back ordered so I bought the kit. Turns out that the kit is what they sell the most of and is very popular. Many say that the kit is better since it teaches you how to repair it. The kit has a lot of parts and requires a clean work area and at least a few days of focused work. The build is generally well documented through an online dynamic build instructions web site where each step has user comments included for you to read and thus get tips and avoid mistakes that others have made. As far as how do you take an idea and get it into a design, well step one is to have a general idea of the shape and works of the end product. After that you would need to learn things about what ever program you elect to use. I got most of my learning via Udemy courses. It was an adventure having an expensive printer that I just built to actually do something but I was highly motivated after all the money and time that I had already put into it. Lol! There are plenty of YouTube channels that feature 3D printing themes.. The two that I like (but rarely watch anymore) are "Maker's Muse" and "3D Printing Nerd". Ken

beautiful shop art

fantastic job

I have that same transistor radio in my computer room. It was my wife's grandfather's radio. Still works!

You should call it an art gallery and charge admittance! That looks like a LOTTA hours and a whole LOTTA sawdust!

Fabulous. Marg

You did a terrific job Charlie. Marg

Thanks Ray, I was just curious what was in his kit and also I saw in the video the counter sink bit/bur and thought it would be good for regular scrolling? Do you know what size the bur is or were to just get the bur? Thanks Richard

Looks great! wish I had wall space.

I have been using Olson blades most all my scrollin' life. That is many, many years. They work for me and I will continue to use them. Yes, i have tried others and i really don't see that much of a difference on my 29 year old RBI. I must have my Hawk fine tuned to the Olson blades. Since I do more Intarsia now, I find the Olson PGT and Mach blades work the best for me on my Hawk, especially with 3/4" lumber. I have decided (some time ago) to stop jumping around trying to find the perfect blade all the time and just stick with what I already know. I still have many FD, Pegas, JGR blades to use up though. I'm no expert on any of these blades, all i know is what works best for me. Just my opinion. One final comment. When I started in 1967 there were no FD, Pegas, Niqua, JGR blades. Only Olson and Eberle blades were available back then. Maybe some Sears and Montgomery Wards blades also. Never used those. There may have been others too that I didn't know about. I remember my very first project with my Dremel Moto-Shop and Olson pinned blades. It was a silouette of a Amish wagon and horse. I was really proud of the cutout. I wish I had a picture of it. That was back in the 1960s. It looked just like this.

I made this for one of my granddaughters ( her choice) who loves butterflys. It is made from blue pine, Western Red Cedar frame, and stained BB background. Deft satin lacquer finish. Looks like the frame is smaller at the bottom and not at 90 degrees. It's just me and my picture taking skills that's off. It's a pattern from Wooden Teddy Bear

Paul, I agree, marquetry should have it's own separate forum. I'm seeing a lot of interest on the subject and if enough of us are interested maybe we can get some tutorials or videos going on the site. All of a sudden, I've got my interest in marquetry renewed. I recall now why and how I got here in the first place.

@rustynail, I will, and thanks again. Where can I find the full length video? I can't find it on youtube.

Thinking is good ... in this case.

Ray he is useing the double bevel method as you can see the table tilted at about 2:23 on the video, it is hard to see but I have the full length video and it shows a lot more than the clip I posted. Silas does some really cool 3-D works that are totally different from most marquetry, If you google his name you can bring up some of his works.

Thanks for posting this video. I've never seen it done this way before. I didn't see any mention of a table tilt or drill holes. Whatever his method is, the finished product is amazing.

I'll have to look at what I was using before Pegas...but I couldn't cut a straight line to save my life. I would have to turn the material 30-40* to try and cut it. I switched to Pegas MGs and have no trouble cutting straight now. Don't know the detailed geometry behind it, geometry makes my head hurt, just want to make nice easy cuts. I don't seem to have the touch, or pay attention with my music cranked up, to know exactly when the blade dulls and should be changed. I change it when I notice I'm pushing it a little harder. I start a pattern with a new blade, most of the time, and if I'm pushing harder or the cuts are a little "fuzzy" I change. When I get ready to cut the piece away from the main board I put in a fresh blade. The only blade breaks I notice are when I've left a #1 in for a lot of cutting. All this applies to straight blades...Don't think I've ever left one of those "evil spiral blades" in long enough to get dull! That being said I would be open to trying a dozen of something else if it cut straight, turned sharp, and didn't splinter.

Hi, I found this in my download folder while housekeeping my folders and remembered this message. The list is not complete but I thought it might help a little, drill size wise. SS_BLADE_CHART_2-22-2013.pdf

At long last I may have found my niche - on this site, as well as in my scrolling. I am a rank amateur when it comes to scrolling and marquetry and have read many of the books referenced by others. I am addicted to watching videos offered by popular streaming services. I began with a Craftsman saw and, having gotten my feet wet, soon replaced In with a Dewalt DW 788. In an era of Covid, traveling from my location, and at my age, are out of the question. That rules out formal classes, such as many responders have reported experiencing. A forum dedicated to marquetry would serve two purposes. First, it would allow for a more focused set of sub-topics. Veneer sources, diy veneer presses, discussion of practical issues - these are a few examples of what I am referring to. The second purpose is simply this: to provide an opportunity for the camaraderie that goes with sharing a common interest and assisting others with our own experiences and ideas. Count me in for further discussions!

When doing marquetry with the double bevel method (tilted table) a lot of instructors want you to use the thicker veneer which is hard to get and costs more or you have to cut your own. With the stacked or packet method you use regular veneers which are easy to get and cost less with more options. If you really get into marquetry you will find there are lots of ways of doing it. Some easier than others and some faster than others. I have read lots of books and watched a lot of videos, and classes and now there are the lasers to cut it as well. Good luck with what ever method you try. Matt when you finish the videos and books you got from Paul Schurch let us know if you feel the same as your quick positive review of them and of course show us what you made.

I loved the MASH pattern by @Sam Custodio but it didn't have one of my favorite characters, Frank Burns, so I added him. I moved Charles Winchester to the upper left because I knew Frank would want to be close to Hot Lips. Love how it turned out. Thanks for a great pattern Sam!!! 11" X 13" X 1/2" Red Oak.

I use the 2nd link extensively. I have several. Needs a caul jig if used on corners that are not 90 degrees -- but so do most clamps.

I have lots of different clamps I use for frames and other pieces I like the band clamp the best so I have 4 of them - one is a simple ratchet clamp style the other 3 are bessy I got on sale at a great price I also use corner clamps for some pieces mostly to hold them together and squaring before I put other clamps on Frames I now exclusively use my bessy band clamps and I can make 4 frames at a time

I like that!