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This is for my lovely wife today on Valentines Day. 1/4" Baltic birch with a 1/4" backer painted with acrylic red and green paint. Sprayed with shellac and then lacquer. The pattern is from the pattern gallery on this forum in the floral section done by shadylady0447

Just finished this today I got the pattern from here ages ago and forgot I had it great pattern the pattern is by theozz thanks for looking

I was asked to make a going away gift for one of the bosses. I was given a demilitarized 20 mm barrel and told have at it. The base is Padauk with a Yellow Heart inlay. The scrolling in the yellowheart are the details. A 20 mm projectile is mounted at the end and inlayed coins of the units that worked for him. Can’t tell, but there is a laser etching of an F-16 on the left corner. It is piled with Teak oil and no sealing. The receiver schooled me in that Germans done seal their woods. Under the barrel are two risers made of Oak. Hope you guys and gals enjoy it.

This is how far I have cut on my Sisters home. It is the back side of the pattern I'm cutting un-finished of course. The little black dots are where I have not cut. 25 more cuts to do then penning in a lot. Have not cut the roof yet.

Something I whipped up on my own

Finished this little guy up. Made a couple of changes and I am very happy with him.

Was looking for something different and I found this 11” x 14” pattern called Double Trouble by Jeff Zaffino on the Scroller Website. Looked challenging…boy, was that quite an understatement! This cutting took toooo many hours as the pattern has well over 400 holes and many of the cuts were not much bigger than the #64 drill bit I used for the Pegas #2/0 spiral blades I used. Because of the many tiny cuts it was difficult to work cutting on this pattern for more that 2 or 3 hours at one time. The cut panel is 1/4” thick Mahogany solid core plywood affixed to a 1/8” thick BB plywood backer painted Flat Black. I chose the Mahogany plywood because after studying the pattern I knew that I was going to add color and the Mahogany color would work well for the tree. The coloring was done with Artist Oil Paints using the dry brush technique in order to obtain the shading and highlighting. This requires the first application to be dry before applying another tint. Oil base Artist paints take a long time to dry and this extended the project time considerably. The border is painted also to create a matted effect. The finished panel was protected with two coats of clear spray Polyurethane after the coloring was complete and dry. The Frame is another simple 1 3/4” wide Poplar frame stained with Minwax Brazilian Rosewood Gel Stain and protected with two coats of clear spray Polyurethane. I used the Minwax pre-stain wood treatment before applying the Gel Stain. In my opinion this stain color is about the best looking slightly transparent color for the Poplar wood.

I am going to give this "card" to Margaret tomorrow morning: It's a Steve Good pattern that I used but I replaced Steve's wording. When our daughter Kathleen was 3 she, with her Grandmother's help, gave us some candies that looked like this to us for Valentines Day. The candies had various sayings on them and Kathleen thought that that saying "Dig Me" was very funny. I can certainly understand why a three year old would think that. She referred to all the candies of this type as 'Dig Me's and that's what our whole family has called them ever since. Yes, that type of candy still exists. I know that Margaret is going to love this. It triggers so many happy memories for both of us.

Life going a bit cr*p just now so not had chance to make much saw dust, but finally found some time so got 3 pictures cut, jimmy Hendrix,Janis Jopplin and Bob Marley they are all cut on 12mm ply and are A3 in size 11 x 16 inch sprayed with a clear lacquer, am not over happy with the Janis Jopplin but its what was asked for, still to put a black backer on the Bob Marley as his face is floating and will be glue to the backer but i am kind of undecided as to try a Jamaican back ground with thick stripes of colour

Not much of a subject but it does look like me. Scarred up nose and all. Had my nose shattered with a soft ball about 30 years ago.

So after reading all the responses (thanks all) of what to do with my scraps, I've decided to make the following Children's sets. When I place patterns for cutting, in all the gaps, I also place any of these smaller patterns giving me a lot less scrap overall. It also allows me to use the new scrap pieces I get from the local lumber yard they are giving me. These sets are made from Basswood and Pine scraps and can be painted/colored and are becoming fairly popular at our events. I have several more made from Oak and poplar scraps as well Thanks as always in advance

Slowly adding to the walls of my shop. Some of the better art was done by my grandkids around the Pop's Shop sign. Sections are TV and Movie personalities, Cowboys, and Music. Does me good to spend time among them.

Question: What does everyone thing of Red Oak?? I cut this guy from Red Oak I just bought and talk about a pain in the butt. Very brittle! Used English oak stain.

Tommy Lee Jones. Great actor! Cut in 1/2" mystery wood.

I'm just curious... Any one here do marquetry? It has alway intrigued me... the difference between scrolling and true art... If I was young I would go all out and take classes or what ever to learn to do it,,, but I am not.... But I do want to try some of it... like the double bevel marquetry where you can still use the scroll saw... Like I said, just curious and maybe I should be satisfied with what I know.... but I love marquetry.... anyone else...?

Knocked this out before 9am. Gonna be a good day. Customer wants to paint it. About 26” wide.

Very nice!!

I'm thinking if you rebuilt the DW with quality bearings and new sleeves.. good quality synthetic grease you should be able to get your 3-5 year time from it.. I would try that first before jumping in on a new saw.. If you are used to cutting on a DW.. they are a bit more aggressive cutting saws than the other saws out there.. You can tune a Pegas and other types of saws to cut more aggressively which when tuned they cut pretty good and fast.. However the top speed SPM ( strokes per minute ) is only 1500 on the Pegas and like saws.. and the DW is 1750. As for quality saws.. built to last and production cut.. I'd agree with Paul and say a Hawk or Hegner with out last any of these other saws by a long shot.. however they are a bit slower at cutting as they do have a more straight up down blade movement.. Hawk has a adjustable blade angle which does help but you get it too far out there and it won't cut nice square corners as Charley mentioned about C arm saws. I personally went with a Hawk when I upgraded as I do just as you are.. "production cut" and I wanted the blade angle adjustment option because speed does somewhat matter for production cutting.. and I don't think Hegner offers that option.. But as others have stated.. repair parts from Hawk can take a long time to get if they don't have the parts on hand.. They are a very small family run business and they also Farm and run a couple other small business's so the parts could be a few months out before you get them.. If you go with Hawk.. a good idea to buy ahead of time some common wear parts. Most business's that production cut shouldn't rely on just running one saw anyway in my opinion.. I have 3 Hawks and a Excalibur. I have the Ex tuned to be a fast cutting machine for those " in a hurry to get done orders " Hawks are tuned to run precision.. funny thing is.. there is very little difference in the time it takes to cut the same projects from one machine to the other.. The DW has a noticeable difference in cutting time.. but it comes with the wearing out fast poor quality machine factor that only you can weigh your options.. Iggy sticks with his DW's and he has had a Hawk and a Pegas.. didn't like either saw very well so he just replaces a DW every year or so.. IF I was that stuck on DW I'd take the time to rebuild one or even pay someone to do it if I wasn't able to myself.. provided they would use quality parts and grease.. I got 4-5 years on my DW after rebuilding it once... I sold the saw because I got the EX.. but wish I had kept it instead.. But honestly, once getting used to the cutting style of the Hawk.. It's really my go to saw.. Been running it pretty hard for 3 years now.. not needed any parts yet.. and still running very smooth and quiet.. To do over again.. I'd still buy the Hawk.. or Hegner.. Even if you buy a new saw every year.. you still have time setting up a new saw.. and the hassle of having to take time to shop for another every year etc..

I have a 20+ year old Delta Q3 40-650 saw that cuts a little more aggressively than the DeWalt, New Delta, Pegus, Seyco and similar design saws that are now available, and I would still use it now if I was doing any kind of production cutting today. It has a C frame design with the blade ends connected across the gap to the ends of the C. When running, the C frame rocks back and forth, so the blade cutting angle is varying slightly forward and back as it moves up and down. This speeds the sawdust clearing from the cut and increases the cutting rate possible at a given saw speed, much like when you hand saw a board and change the blade cutting angle as you make each stroke. What it doesn't do is make a perfectly vertical cut as you reach and need to turn a tight corner, unless you pause at the corner long enough for a couple of complete blade strokes before making the turn and continuing the cutting. So this Q3 saw cuts a little faster, but it isn't quite as precise as these newer saws. It's a trade-off of speed for accuracy. It will depend a lot on what you are cutting as to which saw is better for the purpose. Experiment more with different blades and manufacturers to find the blade that does the job faster for your project, and you will find that for some projects you may want to switch the blade type several times during the project, as some blades work better for very tight turns where others do better for the longer and more gradual turn cutting. Spiral blades do great for clearing tiny areas, but following pattern lines is much more difficult when using them. Larger blades cut faster, but leave rougher edges that require sanding later. Skip tooth blades tend to work better for finer work where clearing the sawdust from the cut becomes a problem. Learn what works best for each area of your project and don't hesitate to switch to the best blade for cutting each area. I have a magnet on the side of the upper arm of my saw where I temporarily park blades that are in use, but dull blades never get put away. Any remaining used blades at the end of a project get trashed. At approx. $0.20 per blade I'm not going to risk the quality of my next project because I used a dull blade on it. Significantly increasing the speed of the saw may increase the cutting speed, but the blade will overheat, turn blue, and loose it's sharpness quickly. It will break sooner as well. It also burns the edges of the cut, making the project look more like it was cut with a laser. There is an optimum trade-off speed for each blade, where it cuts well and yet doesn't over heat, so it continues to cut well for a longer time. I frequently lubricate my blades by cutting into an old candle or block of paraffin or just by rubbing the wax candle or block against the sides of the blade as it's running. This keeps the blade cooler and the cuts cleaner as well. You should set your saw speed to just below where the blade heats and burns the wood. Watch the blade color for signs of it turning from black to blue. Gray is Ok, but not blue. Lubricate the blade with wax often, and once set at this ideal speed it will make the fastest and cleanest cuts possible. The blades have very tiny teeth, so they can only remove as much wood as their teeth gullets will allow with each blade stroke, so pushing the work harder to cut faster will not work very well. As the blade dulls, and you begin to see any burn marks, it will be necessary to slightly reduce the saw speed, or replace the blade to continue making clean cuts as fast and accurately as possible, regardless of what saw that you use. Scroll sawing is more of a journey and achieving precision, than it is a destination. It is nothing like any other kind of woodworking. Slow down, strive for precision, and you will enjoy the process much better. Let the laser cutter guys do production and burn their way through their work, making nasty looking, burned edge, but fast production work. Strive for precision, but at the ideal speed for what you are cutting. You will enjoy the journey much better, and your work will sell faster, because it will look much nicer. A tip for even more precision and speed is to feed and steer your project as your cutting it by using your fingers, with your wrists and palms resting on the front of the saw table or that area of your project. Feeding the work with your elbow muscles isn't nearly as accurate, but is the way that most people try to do it. You will be able to follow the lines, especially in those tight close work areas, much better. If you haven't been working this way, the elbow feeding habit takes some time to break, but it's very worth the effort. When I teach scroll sawing, I try to get my students to work this way from the beginning. Those who have scroll sawn before my class find it more difficult to switch, but everyone has agreed that doing it this way has helped them considerably. Charley

Maybe I push the drill too fast.. but for some reason I can't keep from burning the hole through.. which can ruin the project if you are doing veining cuts.. I use a lot of Cherry wood and it burns easily.. My plunge base "used to be" a lot less sloppy.. over time those upright guides etc will wear.. as it is just plastic. Something to prolong that is using PB blaster dry lube with Teflon spray.. I use the PB Blaster garage door dry lube. https://www.zoro.com/blaster-garage-door-lubricant-aerosol-11-oz-16-gdl/i/G3627915/?gclid=e34fa889ea0114725126c8a37934ba9d&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=e34fa889ea0114725126c8a37934ba9d&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA_US_Bing_SSC&utm_term=4586131721644320&utm_content=All Products I use this stuff on a lot of things.. amazing stuff.. Lawn mower wheels and cables etc.. makes the mower roll real easy and smooth. door hinges in my house / garage / car etc.. LOL. I also use Johnson paste wax on the bottom of the router base.. glides right across the wood when drilling holes.. Anyway, everyone will have a different opinion and use for these dremels for drilling holes.. your system running on the one post looks to be a more stable unit than the plunge router that the base rides on two post and they can't be too tight on those post or it'd be hard to move the plunge part of it.. so brand new there is a little side to side tilt that "can" happen.. after plunging it a million times and it gets some wear it gets much more sloppy.. That stew mac site used to have a metal plunge base.. now it looks like they've made it from plastic?

Super nice.. Love the paint job!

I have cut quite a bit using Red Oak. I think Red Oak looks great. The Victorian bells I cut out for Christmas ornaments looked great in Red Oak.

If I was relying on a saw for production work, I would invest in a Hegner or a Hawk.... Hegner would be my first choice because of the customer service and parts availability... I don't read that Hawk is very good in those area... I could be wrong..

Amazing likeness! Great work!

fantastic job

I havn't done "millions" of holes, but have done a couple of projects in 3/4" material. Using small bits (like #64) and the Dremel operatinag at it highest speed, I have no trouble drilling nice straight holes fairly quickly. I don't push the bit throught to fast, just let it do its thing with a nice steady pressure on the handle. If I was using a larger bit I would knock the speed down. The only trick to using this set up is the need to position the point of the bit only about an 1/8" above the work so positioning over the cut out area is easier to line up. A good light on the panel also helps.

Beautiful and it will last forever. I bet she was impressed. Marg

Paul just try a simple 3-4 piece project to get your feet wet. You will instantly fall in love! Less mess too!!!

You needed lots of skills to cut this one so nice!!!!

Great job on the portrait and cutting!

Great use of scraps.

Nice work. I also like the cats, however I have a sheet of dinosaurs to cut for the grandson.

Can't place him. Danny Trejo maybe? Didn't have a glove. I was running from first to second on a double play, didn't slide and got hit by a shortstop with a very good arm.

great job

You got a good chuckle out of me seeing him!!!

Very nice!

Nicely done and a great memento, Proudly done, Proudly served!

Well, after posting my antique mitre clamp, I decided to restore that poor baby. It's a little off subject but here is her rebirth.

outstanding work, love the gorilla.

Irene would you like a Protégé? This is an incredible task you pulled off!!! I'm in awe!!!

Beautiful work. Everyone likes the big cats. I've cut the wolf lady, one of my favorites.

All really really nice. Great cutting. Font cutting just perfect. I lLove the "two" pretty kittys!

@rustynail, I will, and thanks again. Where can I find the full length video? I can't find it on youtube.

Ray he is useing the double bevel method as you can see the table tilted at about 2:23 on the video, it is hard to see but I have the full length video and it shows a lot more than the clip I posted. Silas does some really cool 3-D works that are totally different from most marquetry, If you google his name you can bring up some of his works.

A couple off the saw lately.

Hello to all, I joined the forum recently and I am very happy to show you my very first work ! It is of course not perfect but I enjoyed doing it. It is a light box based on the following https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2018/11/leaf-light-box-scroll-saw-pattern.html I modified it a little bit, I used plywood of 3mm thick and led lights replaced the classic bulb and cord. It was a great first project and look forward to my next one Thank you Stork30

I'm sorta hoping there will be enough interest here that I could request Travis add it as a forum option.. not so far but maybe.. @rustynail, I have looked a many plans of Chevalets, and would love to build one,,,, just to build one... but I do not have the room... That is why I am really, I think, in the double bevel marquetry.... I have scroll saw... But "come'n man" there is so much neat marquetry stuff out here... Thanks for all the input so far... checking it all out...

Thanks Ray