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Pattern by Russ Beard, a great designer. 1/8" laminated Russian BB cut one up, no stacking needed. #2/0 Pike blade. 400 holes and saw time was 7-1/2 hours. The laminated BB is a joy to cut and although Pike blades have no reverse teeth there is negligible tear-out on the back. I hate finishing and this material needs none. Frame via Hobby Lobby.

Work in progress, Fiona Kingdon's "Any Port In The Storm" pattern from the spring SSWWC magazine. Always wanted to cut one of hers! FD 2/0 blades, VERY slow speed, 3/16 ply. Got the last layer on the saw as we speak. Very thin, fragile piece, there's no zipping from one cut to the next. This one you DEFINITELY want to plan ahead so that every spot ends with you cutting along a section of wood that's adjacent to an uncut area, for stability. I had one spot snap because I wasn't paying attention to the direction I started the cut, just went my normal counter-clockwise and ended up having it break on me. Two others cracked as I was removing the pattern but were fixable with a little wood glue. This one took a while to cut......I'd guestimate about 15 hours or so, because I wasn't rushing anything and temperatures have dropped down into the single digits and even with two heaters going, the fan blowing sawdust out of the way just made my fingers start hurting. So, basically....it was an awesome time!

Здравствуйте, люди добрые. В силу обстоятельств я давно здесь не появлялся. А увлечение пилением, в силу превратностей жизни, полностью отошло для меня на второй план. Но все рано или поздно заканчивается. И иногда это очень хорошо. А это кошки. Моя жена очень обожает эти животных, и я не мог не доставить ей удовольствие. Материал фанера 4мм, соответствует шкале оценки. Схема была случайно найдена мной в Интернете пару лет назад. Если кто-то укажет на автора, буду только рад. П. с. А также мой аватар изменился. Но об этом позже.

Hey Everyone ! In this Scroll Saw Project video I cut out an awesome U.S. Coast Guard Veteran piece designed by my friend Al Baggetta ! In my opinion the Coast Guard hardly ever gets the recognition it deserves. Hope you all like the video ! Stay Safe ! Semper Paratus ! And by now Im aware that the wood for the scroll work is poplar The pattern was designed by Al Baggetta and is avaliable as a FREE download over on his website at; http://baggetta.com/pebooks/RealWoodCraftWeb/FreePage4.html Remember, If I Can Make It Or Do It So Can You ! Please continue to Like, Share, and Subscribe to my Channel to see all future uploads ! God Bless ! #ArtisanPirate

I am so glad Travis does not allow political one sidedness on The Village. I am so sick of all this on the computers now days. This is a good comfortable place to hang, as a results. I do like your pattern and how you used the backerboard to do the red stripes on the flag and the wood to represent the white ones. Dick heppnerguy

Two more inlays (only because they are easy) a generic Hare and hopefully a likeness of our dog Holly, I didn't get the pointy ears quite right unfortunately, but the grandchildren recognised her straight away, so it must be somewhere close Woods and pattern same as last time, Steve Good pattern, 1 1/4" mahogany for box 1/4 mahogany top and base, 1/4 Oak for inlay, I would like to use a whiter wood for the inlay, if you have any suggestions for it, that are easily available in the UK it would be greatly appreciated, I'm not very up on woods I use what I can scavenge or have given me as a rule for my scrolling, yes I am a very poor tight git lol PS. the pic of Holly is from 2014

Needed a box for the granddaughter's puzzle horse I made earlier and came across this Steve Good box pattern. The gears were a good exercise in making turns. Used a metal nut and bolt to hold the large gear - it provided more stability instead of a wooden dowel. Used blue loctite to keep the nut on at just the right tightness. Sidenote: After cutting this one out, I cleaned out the air filter I have on box fan by the saw and was AMAZED at how much sawdust came out when I rapped the filter from the back. I had cut out another pattern earlier, but still - am now a believer in using some kind of dust collection system while sawing, even if occasionally. Can't imagine how much sawdust you folks generate who do this for a living. You could have a wood pellet business on the side! Anyway, getting better at finding that "sweet spot" when it comes to hand and finger placement when moving the wood as I cut. Oh, and made a blade holder out of some old copper pipe and wood I have from the old house. Got a kick out of making something without having to make a trip to the box store.

A lot of factors play into what a persons opinion is about a production cutting saw.. when I see these post topics I'm assuming they're looking for a saw that they don't have to replace every year.. In my mind " any " saw can be a production saw.. you can buy HF saw and just replace it every 3 months or buy a DW and replace it every 12 -15 months.. you can buy a Henger or Hawk and replace it every 10 - 20 years.. You need to buy what works for you also. Some people are not mechanical and don't want to fool with repairs.. others don't mined doing repairs and maintenance. As has been stated what is more important about running business is pricing and factoring in making enough profit to cover replacement saws and having the funds to do so at any given time.. What kills most crafters business is they get the money in their hands and pay themselves buy spending "all" the income.. and live a paycheck to paycheck life.. then when murphy stops by and takes a saw out of commission and no money to replace / repair they loose customers buy not getting orders out in a timely manor. If you are looking for that long lasting saw that you don't need to fool with.. most likely a Hawk or Henger.. You do pay up front.. but as has been mentioned.. You also need to run a saw you are in tune with.. one that is comfortable to run.. after all if a saw's cutting style differs from one type to the next.. If you're used to a DW and are comfortable sitting at it for 6 hours a day then I don't suggest going to a saw that you have no idea of it's comfort level or the cutting style of the saw.. If a Hegner is less aggressive and is 10% slower cutting that means you're going to be sitting at that saw for 10% more time for said work load.. You need to be comfortable with the saw you're using if that is what you will be running the most in your small business. I like the way my Excalibur cuts.. but I can't sit at that saw more than about an hour or I get cramps in my neck.. the stand sucks as there is no place to put your legs / feet as the stand design is wide and doesn't allow you to sit close and sort of straddle the stand.. The Hawk does cut somewhat slower and a less aggressive feel while cutting.. however I've found that it isn't really any slower to complete a project because of it being less aggressive I can go right into a sharp turn and turn it and continue on my cut out.. on a aggressive saw I might have to stop a sec. and back up slightly and then make my turn to continue on.. I get more done in one day on the Hawk than the Excalibur because I have to constantly move when setting at the EX to get comfortable.. always stopping to change position.. Yes one can build there own stand and design it to be comfortable to sit at.. doing so does take time away from production to fiddle with getting set up to be comfortable.. So with all that is been said.. from one production cutter to another.. My suggestion is have a main saw that you're comfortable with.. If you want to try a quality saw get a used one to see if the saw is comfortable for you to set at and get comfortable with it "IF" you can.. run it as a back up saw.. if you can't get used to it and would like a different saw keep trying different saws to see what works well and is in tune with you the user.. BTW.. yes some of the older saws are limited on features.. such as quick clamps and thing like that.. However the stands and the basic saws are still pretty much the same saw.. ( speaking on Hawk and Hegners designs ) If you like a used Hawk or Hegner then you can always have an idea if the new one would be comfortable for you to set at. Guess what I'm saying is.. you could buy a $2000 saw and hate it because it's not comfortable to cut at for long periods of time.. a cheap HF saw might be the saw that does work for you.. Just plan on having to factor in a replacement every X amount of time.. also have a back-up plan for broken saws.. Even high end saws break..at some point. I have 5 saws in my shop.. 3 Hawks a EX-21, and a very old Delta.. Probably over kill.. but I shouldn't have the need to rush to town to buy a saw to finish a project / order because of a broken saw.. I have full intentions to buy a used Hegner at some point to try and see if I would like one.. I went with a new Hawk a few years back because I had two used ones with less features that I liked.. I knew I would be happy with a new one.. I looked at new Hegners.. a few things I think I wouldn't like.. ( small table, arm doesn't go up very high, the front tension lever looks like it sticks up 2-3 inch and I could see me breaking Magnifier lights with that handle. The blade holders look like they could be cumbersome ).. I'd be ticked off to spend nearly $2000 and hate it.. When I find a deal on a used saw.. I'll learn if I like it and then possibly buy a new one if needed / wanted..

For those interested. I uploaded the pattern into the pattern section of this site. Chuck

Was looking for something different and I found this 11” x 14” pattern called Double Trouble by Jeff Zaffino on the Scroller Website. Looked challenging…boy, was that quite an understatement! This cutting took toooo many hours as the pattern has well over 400 holes and many of the cuts were not much bigger than the #64 drill bit I used for the Pegas #2/0 spiral blades I used. Because of the many tiny cuts it was difficult to work cutting on this pattern for more that 2 or 3 hours at one time. The cut panel is 1/4” thick Mahogany solid core plywood affixed to a 1/8” thick BB plywood backer painted Flat Black. I chose the Mahogany plywood because after studying the pattern I knew that I was going to add color and the Mahogany color would work well for the tree. The coloring was done with Artist Oil Paints using the dry brush technique in order to obtain the shading and highlighting. This requires the first application to be dry before applying another tint. Oil base Artist paints take a long time to dry and this extended the project time considerably. The border is painted also to create a matted effect. The finished panel was protected with two coats of clear spray Polyurethane after the coloring was complete and dry. The Frame is another simple 1 3/4” wide Poplar frame stained with Minwax Brazilian Rosewood Gel Stain and protected with two coats of clear spray Polyurethane. I used the Minwax pre-stain wood treatment before applying the Gel Stain. In my opinion this stain color is about the best looking slightly transparent color for the Poplar wood.

The cutting and coloring look nice. Fortunately you did not add why and am very glad you did not. For that reason I hope this presentation does not lead to any political discussions/opinions being posted in this forum! I have been very pleased that to this date this forum has not participated in such.

Challenge accepted -- Nailed it I believe 30 x 40 overall - all in 1/4 and 3/8 Baltic birch except frame. All cut with a #3 modified geometry. Learned some new things to add to my arsenal - always a good thing!! Sorry haven't been on here much -- spend most of my time with this work and grand littles

Welll the dragon house sign is pretty much finished now. Its not as challageing or complex as the stuff you guys make but I like it lol and it will I think look nice once we are able to hang it up outside.... Im not sure what kind or size the wood is. I think its an old piece of plywood used to make the flooring of a shead. Its thiner then 3/4 inch but thicker then the 1/4 inch wood. I have no idea what size blades I used either there all just jumbled up in a container and I just grabed one as I needed to but they were not the really small blades. I used several different dremil cutting tools to carve out the details. WARNING there are a LOT of pictures!!! This first picture is after I put the weather proffing on it. The next 2 show the white gold and sliver painted parts. I ws a little concerned at this point that the gold and sliver wouldnt show up very well.The next 2 are with the light green was put on. then with both shades of green. And then the numbers sign beinging gllued under the dragon. The last 2 are after the expocy resion was put on on one side spike took the last 2 pictures. I dont know why the one picture looks like the expoy resin bubbled up, I went in and checked it out and thank God its still nice with no bubbles!! It will take a couple of days to dry and then I will turn it over and with Gods help put expoxy resin on the other side with hopefuly no bubbles!!! Spike will eventually hang it up outside by the mail box on a hanging plant rod but that will have to wait until after the snow melts and the ground is a bit softer. tomarrow i can start transfering some patterns to wood for projects for the stock and give away boxes.. I relized after I could no long scroll or do my other crafts for so long that I didnt realy have anything Id made for me! So i spend some time here and there making some things for me now lol

Okay @kmmcrafts,,,,, how do you get production work done when you spend so much time on here writing such good, but lengthy, responses?? The only argument I could give you on what you said are shortcomings of a Hegner,,, is every "shortcoming" mention can either easily be improved, if a person feels it is necessary, except for it will always be a bottom feeding saw (did you mention that as a short coming? It is not for me, I have never been a top feeder). There is a learning curve with the Hegner for sure,,, that is why I always say they are not for everyone... The clamps take a little getting use to at first,,,, now they are second nature to me.. Fact I prefer them over my pegas clamps on my Seyco... I easily increase the size of my table top in the same fashion I did on my Excalibur when I had it... Seyco... no problem, you can't find a saw with a bigger table top, directly from the factory.... Hitting the light....never happened until I did a simple modification to make the arm raise higher... then it wacked it first blade that broke... I have since adjusted where I put my light.. By the way,,, making the arm height mod, is okay,,,, but I lived fine without it for many years.. But honestly, figuring out the tension on the Hegner was the most difficult part of learning my Hegner... It is probably more important than most saws, but with a little experience it also becomes second nature.. I guess I have no more to say about what I think of my Hegner.... except, if I had more money I would buy a second one... The reason I like two saws, if not for back up, I don't need that, but I do switch blades often on a lot of things I am cutting... Sometime I have straight blade in one and a spiral in the other... That kind of thing.. Easy to roll my chair between saws.. Only other thing, I would like is a chance to use a Hawk saw... Never have... I would not buy one right now because I have to feel comfortable with parts and customer service and I think that is an issue with the company right now...

Scrappile, I have seen this many times and absolutely love it. And Clayton Boyers kinetic sculptures are another thing. The pendulum clock was the first ever clock that I built. I have always just jumped right in, if you have reasonable scrolling skills and some mechanical aptitude and yes patience. They are a piece of cake, "he says with a grin"

I bought it from Frank Paxton Hardwoods in Denver. I ordered Russian BB 1/8" They put the sheets in my vehicle. I paid no attention until I arrived home. Stuff sure was smooth. It has either a laminated or sprayed finish. I used it and love it. I have no idea what it is called. I buy my 1/8 and 1/4" from them and still have a supply. Next time I order I'll ask what it's called. I can't phone them as I am too deaf to use the phone.

Beautiful piece. Wonderfully cut, the frame is perfect and the stand is a great idea.

Seen versions on those locators. Don't have any wire problems to justify the purchase. BUT I WANT THEM! RJF

I did his three robots,,,, they were great fun and all worked....One had a little problem and Clayton and I figured it out via email... It turns out that there are 2 speeds of the little motors that can be used. I chose the fasted, of coarse. worked great on the first two robots, the third one I did, the one where the legs push from the back, every time it took a step, the front wheels would lift off the ground... Come to find out, the bigger engine was causing it to do a "wheelie" every step... Clayton had not tested that one with the bigger engine... the solution was just to add some weight to the front. It was a great project. If you search wooden gear clocks there are several other designers that are awesome also... Worth checking them all out.. I find the electricomagnetic very interesting that @Rolf posted very interesting... Just something more to wet you appetite:

Rocky, you have done a beautiful piece, and the frame makes the whole piece, RJ

I do the taping it waste in also, helps. Also helps protect the fragile pieces already cut for getting broke by my clumsy fingers while I am moving the piece around.... Another thing I will do, it the piece is real fragile, I will finish the cut then turn the board over and 'reinforce' the thinest areas of that piece with CA glue to give it more strength.. A couple times when I was going to cut something I knew was going to real fragile,,, before I even started drilling holes, I 'painted' the back side with thinned epoxy, to give more strength..

Huge Fiona fan here, and I have all her available patterns, except for one tree one.... My last 4 finished projects have been her patterns and the one on my saw now is hers... I am anxious to follow your progress on this one... You are being very brave using that thin of wood.... I would not attempt it....But, so far I haven't found the wood I want to use... It will be 3/8" or 1/2"... Please keep the progress reports/pictures coming... Looking mighty good so far.

The way I look at it,,,, the Hegner 22 is $1645. I have had 4 saws over time... a DeWalt, Excalibur, Seyco and Hegner... If the Hegner had been the first saw I bought I would have saved money, because I would not have bought those other saws... All Hegner parts are available and there is nothing on the saw I couldn't easily replace myself, and customer service is outstanding.... However, not everyone would like a Hegner and if I had bought it as my first saw and then decided that scrolling was not my thing.... I would have lost a lot more money... so there you go... But if I was going into business, I would want to know parts and good service is available... based on that, a Seyco would be my second choice...

Another eagle fan here, and you did an absolutely great job.

Looks great! Where did you find the Russ Beard pattern. It looks like a lot of people use his patterns but I have been unable to find them.

fantastic job

very nice job

This is not a slap against anyone because I am a guilty as everyone else but we scrollers try to get blood out of a stone. I worked in manufacturing. Machine hours / cycles were tracked and maintenance was done on a regular basis. Sometimes is was simple and sometimes it was a complete overhaul. Beyond that we knew that every machine had a life expectancy. If you are going to run a business and do production work tool replacement and overhauls have to be figured in as the norm. Most scroll saws are not designed for true production work. They are hobby tools. Hegner probably is the closest to a production machine but even they need to be maintained. Hegners cost about $1,800 new. Most of us, l include myself, are not willing to lay out that kind of money. Devin, I wish you all the best in your search. If you are running a business I would suggest have more than one saw. Murphy 's Law is alive and well.

Majestic Eagles! A very favorite subject of mine and many others. You did very well on a very nice pattern (which I also have in my "to do" file). The HL frame finishes perfectly. Question: Is there any difference between what you call "laminated Russian BB" and what is commonly called "BB Plywood"?

Love it!!!!!! I would like to see a pattern also.

It looks great Les, well done. Marg

That look amazing. Slow and steady wins every time. Marg

nice. I definity see how the tail pattern looks like the tail is behind the legs and body. Since the legs have feathers like boots. It could be easily merged into the tail feathers. But it was done well. Great job on good cutting on a good pattern.

Nicely cut. I have found in my cold shop that fingerless gloves can help a lot with keeping the hands warm. Mine are just brown jersey gloves that I attacked with a pair of scissors. Tom

Thanks Christian. I did see those but I appreciate you taking the time to help me out. And, there is absolutely nothing wrong with your writing. It's "spot on"! Welcome to the Village. Lots to see and read here.

Nice work. I was not in the Coast Guard, but alway thought it would be a great branch to serve in... Especially if I could have got a duty station like on the Oregon Coast... They have such cool boats... and their station/bases whatever they call them alway look so nice.

Young guy I worked with in retail (after I'd gotten out of the Navy) came up to me and another Navy vet one day and apologized. Said he'd enlisted and was heading to boot in a little while. We both immediately shook his hand, then asked why the apology. He said he'd enlisted in the Coast Guard and "knew" our feelings about the branch. We both looked him dead in the eye and told him in no uncertain terms that the CG was DEFINITELY a branch of the military and deserving of all the respect the other branches received. Then, when he relaxed, we mentioned "oh, but you're a DIFFERENT branch, so we're also definitely going to give you a load of crap before you leave."

I am NOT showing my wife this - she'll want one too and I'm not there yet. Simply beautiful!

Excellent. I like them a lot and so does my wife. Thanks, now she want's a pair. Like I don't already have umpteen items to make already.

I agree with you about the USCG not being recognized as a US Military force. In fact we hardly ever got any recognition. I am a USCG veteran. I spent 4 years as a US Coast Guardsman. And am proud of my time served, No, we don't just patrol the coast. And we are not water cops. Read about the 6 major missions of the US Coast Guard. https://www.uscg.mil/About/Missions/ I'm going to make one of those for myself. Thanks for the video Semper Paratus- Always Ready PS: The figure saluting is a sailor, not a soldier. There are no soldiers in the Coast Guard.

Finished this little guy up. Made a couple of changes and I am very happy with him.

This sure is an 'artsy' project. You have quite a talent going. Unusual and very stunning to the eye. Dick heppnerguy

I have a 20+ year old Delta Q3 40-650 saw that cuts a little more aggressively than the DeWalt, New Delta, Pegus, Seyco and similar design saws that are now available, and I would still use it now if I was doing any kind of production cutting today. It has a C frame design with the blade ends connected across the gap to the ends of the C. When running, the C frame rocks back and forth, so the blade cutting angle is varying slightly forward and back as it moves up and down. This speeds the sawdust clearing from the cut and increases the cutting rate possible at a given saw speed, much like when you hand saw a board and change the blade cutting angle as you make each stroke. What it doesn't do is make a perfectly vertical cut as you reach and need to turn a tight corner, unless you pause at the corner long enough for a couple of complete blade strokes before making the turn and continuing the cutting. So this Q3 saw cuts a little faster, but it isn't quite as precise as these newer saws. It's a trade-off of speed for accuracy. It will depend a lot on what you are cutting as to which saw is better for the purpose. Experiment more with different blades and manufacturers to find the blade that does the job faster for your project, and you will find that for some projects you may want to switch the blade type several times during the project, as some blades work better for very tight turns where others do better for the longer and more gradual turn cutting. Spiral blades do great for clearing tiny areas, but following pattern lines is much more difficult when using them. Larger blades cut faster, but leave rougher edges that require sanding later. Skip tooth blades tend to work better for finer work where clearing the sawdust from the cut becomes a problem. Learn what works best for each area of your project and don't hesitate to switch to the best blade for cutting each area. I have a magnet on the side of the upper arm of my saw where I temporarily park blades that are in use, but dull blades never get put away. Any remaining used blades at the end of a project get trashed. At approx. $0.20 per blade I'm not going to risk the quality of my next project because I used a dull blade on it. Significantly increasing the speed of the saw may increase the cutting speed, but the blade will overheat, turn blue, and loose it's sharpness quickly. It will break sooner as well. It also burns the edges of the cut, making the project look more like it was cut with a laser. There is an optimum trade-off speed for each blade, where it cuts well and yet doesn't over heat, so it continues to cut well for a longer time. I frequently lubricate my blades by cutting into an old candle or block of paraffin or just by rubbing the wax candle or block against the sides of the blade as it's running. This keeps the blade cooler and the cuts cleaner as well. You should set your saw speed to just below where the blade heats and burns the wood. Watch the blade color for signs of it turning from black to blue. Gray is Ok, but not blue. Lubricate the blade with wax often, and once set at this ideal speed it will make the fastest and cleanest cuts possible. The blades have very tiny teeth, so they can only remove as much wood as their teeth gullets will allow with each blade stroke, so pushing the work harder to cut faster will not work very well. As the blade dulls, and you begin to see any burn marks, it will be necessary to slightly reduce the saw speed, or replace the blade to continue making clean cuts as fast and accurately as possible, regardless of what saw that you use. Scroll sawing is more of a journey and achieving precision, than it is a destination. It is nothing like any other kind of woodworking. Slow down, strive for precision, and you will enjoy the process much better. Let the laser cutter guys do production and burn their way through their work, making nasty looking, burned edge, but fast production work. Strive for precision, but at the ideal speed for what you are cutting. You will enjoy the journey much better, and your work will sell faster, because it will look much nicer. A tip for even more precision and speed is to feed and steer your project as your cutting it by using your fingers, with your wrists and palms resting on the front of the saw table or that area of your project. Feeding the work with your elbow muscles isn't nearly as accurate, but is the way that most people try to do it. You will be able to follow the lines, especially in those tight close work areas, much better. If you haven't been working this way, the elbow feeding habit takes some time to break, but it's very worth the effort. When I teach scroll sawing, I try to get my students to work this way from the beginning. Those who have scroll sawn before my class find it more difficult to switch, but everyone has agreed that doing it this way has helped them considerably. Charley

One important thing to remember when using any single phase induction motor powered tool is not to significantly slow the motor down. If you slow it to the point that the centrifugal switch kicks in the start winding, the motor will overheat and trip the protector or burn up very quickly. Never significantly slow the speed of a single phase induction motor more than about 20% of it's rated running speed. A blade with a larger tooth set or wider carbide will have less difficulty making the cut. The blade should be designed for the intended purpose as well. Don't cross cut with a ripping blade and don't rip with a cross cut blade. Combination blades are for those too lazy to switch blades, as they don't do either as well as the proper blade. Charley

Yeah, I like to add some color...makes some of these portraits pop. I don't feel I have a very good artistic eye. I'm just experimenting as I go. I will use a photo (like I did for these Racoons0 in an attemp to get the colors close to correct. I couldn't paint a picture if my life depended on it, but I have been able to enhance some of the patterns I've cut by adding color. A set of inexpensive acrylic craft paints and a set of cheap brushes would get you started. The oil base art paints are a little easier to mix and blend colors, but do take a long time to dry.

Why did the saw overheat? Were you overloading it, or is a bearing or two going bad? Without power, can you spin the blade easily by hand? It may be time for new bearings. Charley

Well, I've made worse mistakes and a much younger age. They say that with age comes wisdom. They just forgot the rest. If we get so old we can't retrieve that wisdom due to the increasing thickness of the gray matter, well, as they say "S" happens.

Having sold tape for a living in the past, I can say that 3M is good tape, with consistent quality control, and the most expensive option available. The problem with adherence to a carton these days could be that the carton has high recycled content. Shorter fiber strands are much tougher for tape to adhere to, requiring in many cases a better tack in the adhesive. The three types of adhesive in descending order of popularity and ascending order of cost are hot melt, acrylic, and natural rubber. If you're looking to use packaging tape, hot melt will be the type with an amber tint and a tackier release, while acrylic is clear with a freer release. Natural rubber is pretty much limited to duct tape. The perception is since acrylic releases so easily that it isn't as sticky as hot melt, but that isn't true. Acrylic has a faster and stronger tack than hot melt, so a release agent is applied to the back of the carrier to enable using the tape without having to fight it to get it off of the roll. In a freezer environment, acrylic is the adhesive used as nothing else will work on cases of frozen or soon to be frozen product. Look around and see if you can find Shurtape. It's a good quality tape that will cost less than 3M...if that kind of thing matters to you. This is likely more about tape than anyone really wanted to know.

ive started making one of these,during the lockdown,ive made a few of these over the years ,but i think i will make a change on this one,i plan on changing the frame to my next one,it take a while to make but while this covid 19 goes on i have plenty time to do it,i got left go from work 2 weeks ago ,and no signs of going back until this passes, keep safe everyone,