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Saw artist pirate make this. First big novel I ever read. I knew I had to make my own pattern and cutting. So shout out to him for inspiration. And a ornimate I never got to at Christmas and another cook sign for a cousin. And working on another inspired piece for my son. Ty you guys.

Steve Good patterns. Made using oak, poplar, blood wood. Cut using #5 & #3 MG. Finished with 3 coats of Arm R Seal.

JGR pattern. Use cherry and walnut woods.made to give to a friend.

Two more inlays (only because they are easy) a generic Hare and hopefully a likeness of our dog Holly, I didn't get the pointy ears quite right unfortunately, but the grandchildren recognised her straight away, so it must be somewhere close Woods and pattern same as last time, Steve Good pattern, 1 1/4" mahogany for box 1/4 mahogany top and base, 1/4 Oak for inlay, I would like to use a whiter wood for the inlay, if you have any suggestions for it, that are easily available in the UK it would be greatly appreciated, I'm not very up on woods I use what I can scavenge or have given me as a rule for my scrolling, yes I am a very poor tight git lol PS. the pic of Holly is from 2014

Another Steve Good pattern I had to try. Used Pegas #5ST blade on 3/4inch pine for the honeycomb and #3ST for the 1/4 inch honeybee. A trip to the local craft store for the green felt and finished with Satin Poly. Originally stained the honeybee with too dark a color and wound up using the wife's acrylic paint after sealing it. Which leads me into a whole 'nother lot learning to do when it comes to wood/stain/paint/etc. etc. etc.

I think it is good idea for a gift if you want to present something you made by your hands and thank your doc or any medic. My project was already gifted. Video of making Heart project Heart pattern

Found a nice frame at DT, worked perfectly for this guy. I need to take a better picture. He is actually straight in the frame.....................

Toothpick with some gum (or any sticky substance) may help to retrieve the brushes.

Work in progress, Fiona Kingdon's "Any Port In The Storm" pattern from the spring SSWWC magazine. Always wanted to cut one of hers! FD 2/0 blades, VERY slow speed, 3/16 ply. Got the last layer on the saw as we speak. Very thin, fragile piece, there's no zipping from one cut to the next. This one you DEFINITELY want to plan ahead so that every spot ends with you cutting along a section of wood that's adjacent to an uncut area, for stability. I had one spot snap because I wasn't paying attention to the direction I started the cut, just went my normal counter-clockwise and ended up having it break on me. Two others cracked as I was removing the pattern but were fixable with a little wood glue. This one took a while to cut......I'd guestimate about 15 hours or so, because I wasn't rushing anything and temperatures have dropped down into the single digits and even with two heaters going, the fan blowing sawdust out of the way just made my fingers start hurting. So, basically....it was an awesome time!

In attempting to give Tom a 5 o'clock shadow I just made him look like he had a skin condition. Since I'll be seeing a lot of him in my shop I cut it again minus the whiskers and a few other minor changes. Close enough.

I too am a Hawk owner 25 years no major problems. I vote for Hawk too. You won't be sorry.

That's a great tip about "painting" the back of a piece in an area of perceived fragility with thinned epoxy in advance of cutting it.

I would call Bushton with the serial number and ask about motor and approximate year of the saw. Hawk saws are great saws.. parts can be a wait to get if you ever come to a point of needing parts as they are a very small family run business that are also farmers.. if you need a part during harvest time you might be waiting a month or two for them to be done with the farming things to get your part made. One thing about Hawk saws is.. you rarely need to order parts.. any hardware and bearings are available at a hardware store typically right on the shelf.. The two main wear points I know of are the wedge shape piece at the back of the saw.. It should be a fairly sharp point on the end where it contacts the upper arm.. Though they are cheap to replace.. this is a sign of how much the saw has been run if it is worn and has a rounded edge. The other wear point seems to be the tension cam.. When you put tension on the blade you flip that lever over and it should go down and lock right against the upper arm.. If worn it may pop back up some thus not really locking the tension.. I've looked at saws I run across on craigslist and they will have a rubber band or something over that lever to hold it from popping up and releasing the blade tension.. There is really not a lot to go wrong with these old saws. If that wedge piece at the back of the saw is rounded over.. you can reshape it by laying a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and sharpening that point buy sanding it flat from both sides evenly. Most wear parts for these could be made instead of buying them from Hawk.. provided you have a drill press and a grinder, LOL As for the WEN.. I don't know much at all about them.. or if parts are easy to get or not.. I assume they are made in China but I don't know for sure.. Not a very high end saw like a Hawk..

I'm glad you like my DUMB answers!

Okay it is not $1800 or $2000 it is a mere $1645, stand optional, plus shipping, like most... If you can afford to spend the winter sitting bored on a sunny/rainy beach.... you can afford that saw!! Nice conversation and I hope you have a great vacation!! https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/collections/hegner/products/multimax-22-v-variable-speed-scroll-saw

There is nothing I like better than when I made something to give to my wife and she loves it. For me, that is better than selling a piece to a customer, even for $300. Make the wife happy first and then things are ALWAYS okey. Dick heppnerguy

Okay @kmmcrafts,,,,, how do you get production work done when you spend so much time on here writing such good, but lengthy, responses?? The only argument I could give you on what you said are shortcomings of a Hegner,,, is every "shortcoming" mention can either easily be improved, if a person feels it is necessary, except for it will always be a bottom feeding saw (did you mention that as a short coming? It is not for me, I have never been a top feeder). There is a learning curve with the Hegner for sure,,, that is why I always say they are not for everyone... The clamps take a little getting use to at first,,,, now they are second nature to me.. Fact I prefer them over my pegas clamps on my Seyco... I easily increase the size of my table top in the same fashion I did on my Excalibur when I had it... Seyco... no problem, you can't find a saw with a bigger table top, directly from the factory.... Hitting the light....never happened until I did a simple modification to make the arm raise higher... then it wacked it first blade that broke... I have since adjusted where I put my light.. By the way,,, making the arm height mod, is okay,,,, but I lived fine without it for many years.. But honestly, figuring out the tension on the Hegner was the most difficult part of learning my Hegner... It is probably more important than most saws, but with a little experience it also becomes second nature.. I guess I have no more to say about what I think of my Hegner.... except, if I had more money I would buy a second one... The reason I like two saws, if not for back up, I don't need that, but I do switch blades often on a lot of things I am cutting... Sometime I have straight blade in one and a spiral in the other... That kind of thing.. Easy to roll my chair between saws.. Only other thing, I would like is a chance to use a Hawk saw... Never have... I would not buy one right now because I have to feel comfortable with parts and customer service and I think that is an issue with the company right now...

A lot of factors play into what a persons opinion is about a production cutting saw.. when I see these post topics I'm assuming they're looking for a saw that they don't have to replace every year.. In my mind " any " saw can be a production saw.. you can buy HF saw and just replace it every 3 months or buy a DW and replace it every 12 -15 months.. you can buy a Henger or Hawk and replace it every 10 - 20 years.. You need to buy what works for you also. Some people are not mechanical and don't want to fool with repairs.. others don't mined doing repairs and maintenance. As has been stated what is more important about running business is pricing and factoring in making enough profit to cover replacement saws and having the funds to do so at any given time.. What kills most crafters business is they get the money in their hands and pay themselves buy spending "all" the income.. and live a paycheck to paycheck life.. then when murphy stops by and takes a saw out of commission and no money to replace / repair they loose customers buy not getting orders out in a timely manor. If you are looking for that long lasting saw that you don't need to fool with.. most likely a Hawk or Henger.. You do pay up front.. but as has been mentioned.. You also need to run a saw you are in tune with.. one that is comfortable to run.. after all if a saw's cutting style differs from one type to the next.. If you're used to a DW and are comfortable sitting at it for 6 hours a day then I don't suggest going to a saw that you have no idea of it's comfort level or the cutting style of the saw.. If a Hegner is less aggressive and is 10% slower cutting that means you're going to be sitting at that saw for 10% more time for said work load.. You need to be comfortable with the saw you're using if that is what you will be running the most in your small business. I like the way my Excalibur cuts.. but I can't sit at that saw more than about an hour or I get cramps in my neck.. the stand sucks as there is no place to put your legs / feet as the stand design is wide and doesn't allow you to sit close and sort of straddle the stand.. The Hawk does cut somewhat slower and a less aggressive feel while cutting.. however I've found that it isn't really any slower to complete a project because of it being less aggressive I can go right into a sharp turn and turn it and continue on my cut out.. on a aggressive saw I might have to stop a sec. and back up slightly and then make my turn to continue on.. I get more done in one day on the Hawk than the Excalibur because I have to constantly move when setting at the EX to get comfortable.. always stopping to change position.. Yes one can build there own stand and design it to be comfortable to sit at.. doing so does take time away from production to fiddle with getting set up to be comfortable.. So with all that is been said.. from one production cutter to another.. My suggestion is have a main saw that you're comfortable with.. If you want to try a quality saw get a used one to see if the saw is comfortable for you to set at and get comfortable with it "IF" you can.. run it as a back up saw.. if you can't get used to it and would like a different saw keep trying different saws to see what works well and is in tune with you the user.. BTW.. yes some of the older saws are limited on features.. such as quick clamps and thing like that.. However the stands and the basic saws are still pretty much the same saw.. ( speaking on Hawk and Hegners designs ) If you like a used Hawk or Hegner then you can always have an idea if the new one would be comfortable for you to set at. Guess what I'm saying is.. you could buy a $2000 saw and hate it because it's not comfortable to cut at for long periods of time.. a cheap HF saw might be the saw that does work for you.. Just plan on having to factor in a replacement every X amount of time.. also have a back-up plan for broken saws.. Even high end saws break..at some point. I have 5 saws in my shop.. 3 Hawks a EX-21, and a very old Delta.. Probably over kill.. but I shouldn't have the need to rush to town to buy a saw to finish a project / order because of a broken saw.. I have full intentions to buy a used Hegner at some point to try and see if I would like one.. I went with a new Hawk a few years back because I had two used ones with less features that I liked.. I knew I would be happy with a new one.. I looked at new Hegners.. a few things I think I wouldn't like.. ( small table, arm doesn't go up very high, the front tension lever looks like it sticks up 2-3 inch and I could see me breaking Magnifier lights with that handle. The blade holders look like they could be cumbersome ).. I'd be ticked off to spend nearly $2000 and hate it.. When I find a deal on a used saw.. I'll learn if I like it and then possibly buy a new one if needed / wanted..

Was looking for something different and I found this 11” x 14” pattern called Double Trouble by Jeff Zaffino on the Scroller Website. Looked challenging…boy, was that quite an understatement! This cutting took toooo many hours as the pattern has well over 400 holes and many of the cuts were not much bigger than the #64 drill bit I used for the Pegas #2/0 spiral blades I used. Because of the many tiny cuts it was difficult to work cutting on this pattern for more that 2 or 3 hours at one time. The cut panel is 1/4” thick Mahogany solid core plywood affixed to a 1/8” thick BB plywood backer painted Flat Black. I chose the Mahogany plywood because after studying the pattern I knew that I was going to add color and the Mahogany color would work well for the tree. The coloring was done with Artist Oil Paints using the dry brush technique in order to obtain the shading and highlighting. This requires the first application to be dry before applying another tint. Oil base Artist paints take a long time to dry and this extended the project time considerably. The border is painted also to create a matted effect. The finished panel was protected with two coats of clear spray Polyurethane after the coloring was complete and dry. The Frame is another simple 1 3/4” wide Poplar frame stained with Minwax Brazilian Rosewood Gel Stain and protected with two coats of clear spray Polyurethane. I used the Minwax pre-stain wood treatment before applying the Gel Stain. In my opinion this stain color is about the best looking slightly transparent color for the Poplar wood.

I was a member but over the past 4-5 years I’ve been silent, retired, lost my wife, life changes. Some May remember me, hi I’m Clyde from the rock in the Atlantic Ocean, (Newfoundland), north of the 49th. Got an extension on my shed and think I’m ready to get back into the saddle, sorry scrollsaw

Hi, New here and new to scroll sawing. Retired and looking for stuff to do and thought scroll sawing with my grandsons might be fun and good bonding experience. They are too young to work with grandpa's power tools but I thought scroll might be ok. I've bought them Stanley kids work benches and junior size tools and they like putting stuff together with their Dad. I'm really concerned that they're no shop classes in school any more so if they don't learn at home they wont know any of the stuff we old guys did in the mandatory shop classes in school. So my question is, do I just buy a Wen 3922, plus foot pedal, about $150 w/o stand,, or do I spend over $300 for a RBI Hawk model 226 that looks like new and the seller says he's used it for years on serious scrolling as a hobby and it works great and has never needed a repair? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks

I purchased a Brother B&W laser printer. I usually take my patterns to Office Max and have them printed in red. I used up the sample toner cartridge. I ordered magenta toner and refilled the black cartridge with it. The instructions for doing the refill were kind of bogus so I just drilled a 1/4" hole in top of the cartridge and filled it that way. I put a piece of tape over the hole. I think after the second refilling it should work well. It is impossible to get the black toner completely out of the cartridge so the images are sharp but a muddy red. This should clear up. I have a very nice ink jet printer if I need B&W. I find red patterns easier to scroll because of the contrast between the pattern and the blade. Also when drilling I can see what has not been drilled. Holes and black pattern look pretty much alike and I find myself occasionally trying to drill something that has already been cut.

Welll the dragon house sign is pretty much finished now. Its not as challageing or complex as the stuff you guys make but I like it lol and it will I think look nice once we are able to hang it up outside.... Im not sure what kind or size the wood is. I think its an old piece of plywood used to make the flooring of a shead. Its thiner then 3/4 inch but thicker then the 1/4 inch wood. I have no idea what size blades I used either there all just jumbled up in a container and I just grabed one as I needed to but they were not the really small blades. I used several different dremil cutting tools to carve out the details. WARNING there are a LOT of pictures!!! This first picture is after I put the weather proffing on it. The next 2 show the white gold and sliver painted parts. I ws a little concerned at this point that the gold and sliver wouldnt show up very well.The next 2 are with the light green was put on. then with both shades of green. And then the numbers sign beinging gllued under the dragon. The last 2 are after the expocy resion was put on on one side spike took the last 2 pictures. I dont know why the one picture looks like the expoy resin bubbled up, I went in and checked it out and thank God its still nice with no bubbles!! It will take a couple of days to dry and then I will turn it over and with Gods help put expoxy resin on the other side with hopefuly no bubbles!!! Spike will eventually hang it up outside by the mail box on a hanging plant rod but that will have to wait until after the snow melts and the ground is a bit softer. tomarrow i can start transfering some patterns to wood for projects for the stock and give away boxes.. I relized after I could no long scroll or do my other crafts for so long that I didnt realy have anything Id made for me! So i spend some time here and there making some things for me now lol

I have the Wen air cleaner in my tiny shop and if I am in there doing anything wood related, I turn it on and let it run. It really does a great job of air filtration. I'm sorry to hear that you are experiencing the extreme cold. I have trouble going out to my shop if it's below 60. I wear shorts and I hate long sleeves or pants. I'm a wimp. And proud of it. Also, to your other question, I use the air blower on both of my saws and what doesn't get picked up with my little vac system gets blown off to one side where I have a 20" box fan with a furnace filter to catch the dust. It's amazing how much it catches. I still wear my dust mask even with all the dust catching stuff I have running.

Found a article on reclaiming plywood. Some may know of it, was new too me. RJF https://makezine.com/2021/02/15/this-week-in-maker-classes-origami-circuits-python-puppets-and-simple-machines/

As a Hawk owner for over 27 years and not one single issue, I'm going with the Hawk.

You can contact the company and they should be able to tell you if it was one of the series that had issues. They can also tell you the availability of parts. http://www.bushtonmanufacturing.com

Thank you kywoodmaster. I hope some of the knowledgeable Hawk folks will chime in. I found out that the serial number on the machine is in the very low 7100's. Is this a clue as to whether it has any problems such as the motor?

Looks great! Looking forward to seeing the finished project. I just subscribed to SSWWC. Haven't gotten my first one yet.

I've been called worse!,,, but yep it would be so fun to get together and, well, sip a little Jameson and talk scrolling. I have gotten together with two other members and one none member to talk, Heppnerguy called me just a few day ago,,, I cherish those calls. We talked for some time... Only thing that could be better is if we could visit more often in person.. It is a great time... wish we could some how have a great gathering of members... what a fun time that would be... Maybe we should have a call list or something.... those that wanted could list their phone number somewhere and and members could call each other and get acquainted and talk... I guess we could do that through messages,,, but voice is better and a Zoom setup would next awesome!! Is it possible to set up a Zoom session without invading anyone privacy?? I do not understand how to do all this stuff..

I think that is exactly the brand I've seen most used for automotive. RJF

Models I saw had the fuse system, but also had a signal 'SOUND' injector. It could be put on a wire or sets of them and a detector could trace the signal down the wire to a ground or broken wire. The was around the 100 range plus accessories. Also looking at a similar system that plugs into house outlets/ lights and a detector gives the specific breaker. Thinking of getting one if we ever find a dang house I have no idea what anyone has done to the electrical system, so I'll trace and label every system. RJF

I didn't realize to be considered a production cutter you had to sit at the saw 24 - 7 365 days.. To be quite honest.. I'm nearly 900 miles from my shop on a vacation sitting on the beach in Folly SC and hoping the second half of my vacation isn't rain like this first half is, My website is in Vacation mode until I get back home in March. I will say the dang iPad thing is a pain in the behind to get used to instead of my computer. tiny keyboard thing on the screen.. I knew I should have brought my laptop, LOL. Must have taken me 2 hours for that last reply but who cares I get board sitting around not actually working.. I'm one that can't sit doing nothing.. I'm good to set at a computer but I cannot get into TV shows.. mainly because anything on TV is garbage anyway.. has to be action packed or I loose interest.. I think I could get used to the Hegner fairly quick.. I would think since the design is quite similar to the Hawk as they are very fussy about blade tension and many of the same things and I assume they are quite similar in nature. I'm not a top feeder either so that's not an issue.. and yes anyone can modify a saw to their own liking.. or build their own for that matter.. The dislikes or rather concerns about the short comings for the Hegner are small petty things and I get that.. also not everyone cares about table size or this or that.. I only brought those things up as they was concerns of "mine" after all I do set at the saw quite a lot.. I was comfortable with Hawk as I has been using one for 2-3 years before purchasing that new saw.. and I strongly looked at Hegner.. but wasn't about to spend nearly $2000 on a saw not really knowing if it'd work well with me.. as in comfort.. my last reply I mentioned you have to be comfortable setting at a saw if you're doing this as a business.. I'm a cheap @ss .. I only paid $100 for my first Hawk.. and not about to pay $2000 for something I have no idea if I'd like it.. Robust saw for sure and probably well worth every penny.. but would I really be happy sitting at it all day every day.. I suppose for $2000 I'd have to make myself like it.. LOL This is why I say I'm watching for a deal on one.. I want to try one.. never know.. after trying one I might sell all the Hawks and buy a new Hegner..

Knowing that you have stuck brushes makes me wonder whether it could be that the motor was becoming jammed by a broken brush and causing it to overload that fuse. Also, as another suggestion, since you live in Florida and so does @amazingkevinKevin, he always has a dozen or so Dewalts laying around that he uses for parts and rebuild saws. He might be in a position to sell you one of them and you could do a rebuild on it and have another Dewalt for your business. Having 2 of the same machine makes sense to me.

Scrappile, I have seen this many times and absolutely love it. And Clayton Boyers kinetic sculptures are another thing. The pendulum clock was the first ever clock that I built. I have always just jumped right in, if you have reasonable scrolling skills and some mechanical aptitude and yes patience. They are a piece of cake, "he says with a grin"

I had the purple Excalibur the last 13 years I was in business. I joined this forum to find a scroll saw because I miss the action. I ended up with the King for one reason. 30" throat. My only recommendation is don't fret over the price. Best of luck, Phil.

I did his three robots,,,, they were great fun and all worked....One had a little problem and Clayton and I figured it out via email... It turns out that there are 2 speeds of the little motors that can be used. I chose the fasted, of coarse. worked great on the first two robots, the third one I did, the one where the legs push from the back, every time it took a step, the front wheels would lift off the ground... Come to find out, the bigger engine was causing it to do a "wheelie" every step... Clayton had not tested that one with the bigger engine... the solution was just to add some weight to the front. It was a great project. If you search wooden gear clocks there are several other designers that are awesome also... Worth checking them all out.. I find the electricomagnetic very interesting that @Rolf posted very interesting... Just something more to wet you appetite:

Wow that is amazing. Just the perfect font but I am more curious about the balls how did you do those??????????? Marg

Ralph, I really like your compositions and the fact that the simple framing allows me to enjoy and appreciate the subject matter. Not only that, but your scrolling talent is highly demonstrated in your work. Congratulations on" jobs well done". Fred

Top quality. Great scroll work.

Nicely done on both projects. I love how they both came out Dick heppnerguy

Trying to be more regular

Knocked this out before 9am. Gonna be a good day. Customer wants to paint it. About 26” wide.

Nice!!! And we DEFINITELY need a pattern for this one if you have it.

I have a 20+ year old Delta Q3 40-650 saw that cuts a little more aggressively than the DeWalt, New Delta, Pegus, Seyco and similar design saws that are now available, and I would still use it now if I was doing any kind of production cutting today. It has a C frame design with the blade ends connected across the gap to the ends of the C. When running, the C frame rocks back and forth, so the blade cutting angle is varying slightly forward and back as it moves up and down. This speeds the sawdust clearing from the cut and increases the cutting rate possible at a given saw speed, much like when you hand saw a board and change the blade cutting angle as you make each stroke. What it doesn't do is make a perfectly vertical cut as you reach and need to turn a tight corner, unless you pause at the corner long enough for a couple of complete blade strokes before making the turn and continuing the cutting. So this Q3 saw cuts a little faster, but it isn't quite as precise as these newer saws. It's a trade-off of speed for accuracy. It will depend a lot on what you are cutting as to which saw is better for the purpose. Experiment more with different blades and manufacturers to find the blade that does the job faster for your project, and you will find that for some projects you may want to switch the blade type several times during the project, as some blades work better for very tight turns where others do better for the longer and more gradual turn cutting. Spiral blades do great for clearing tiny areas, but following pattern lines is much more difficult when using them. Larger blades cut faster, but leave rougher edges that require sanding later. Skip tooth blades tend to work better for finer work where clearing the sawdust from the cut becomes a problem. Learn what works best for each area of your project and don't hesitate to switch to the best blade for cutting each area. I have a magnet on the side of the upper arm of my saw where I temporarily park blades that are in use, but dull blades never get put away. Any remaining used blades at the end of a project get trashed. At approx. $0.20 per blade I'm not going to risk the quality of my next project because I used a dull blade on it. Significantly increasing the speed of the saw may increase the cutting speed, but the blade will overheat, turn blue, and loose it's sharpness quickly. It will break sooner as well. It also burns the edges of the cut, making the project look more like it was cut with a laser. There is an optimum trade-off speed for each blade, where it cuts well and yet doesn't over heat, so it continues to cut well for a longer time. I frequently lubricate my blades by cutting into an old candle or block of paraffin or just by rubbing the wax candle or block against the sides of the blade as it's running. This keeps the blade cooler and the cuts cleaner as well. You should set your saw speed to just below where the blade heats and burns the wood. Watch the blade color for signs of it turning from black to blue. Gray is Ok, but not blue. Lubricate the blade with wax often, and once set at this ideal speed it will make the fastest and cleanest cuts possible. The blades have very tiny teeth, so they can only remove as much wood as their teeth gullets will allow with each blade stroke, so pushing the work harder to cut faster will not work very well. As the blade dulls, and you begin to see any burn marks, it will be necessary to slightly reduce the saw speed, or replace the blade to continue making clean cuts as fast and accurately as possible, regardless of what saw that you use. Scroll sawing is more of a journey and achieving precision, than it is a destination. It is nothing like any other kind of woodworking. Slow down, strive for precision, and you will enjoy the process much better. Let the laser cutter guys do production and burn their way through their work, making nasty looking, burned edge, but fast production work. Strive for precision, but at the ideal speed for what you are cutting. You will enjoy the journey much better, and your work will sell faster, because it will look much nicer. A tip for even more precision and speed is to feed and steer your project as your cutting it by using your fingers, with your wrists and palms resting on the front of the saw table or that area of your project. Feeding the work with your elbow muscles isn't nearly as accurate, but is the way that most people try to do it. You will be able to follow the lines, especially in those tight close work areas, much better. If you haven't been working this way, the elbow feeding habit takes some time to break, but it's very worth the effort. When I teach scroll sawing, I try to get my students to work this way from the beginning. Those who have scroll sawn before my class find it more difficult to switch, but everyone has agreed that doing it this way has helped them considerably. Charley

Glasgow Rangers new crest from 9mm plywood .

It is for the Buffalo Bills. I have wanted to do this for a while, but finally found time. Growing up in Western New York, being a Bills fan is required. They had a good season this year and looking forward to next year. Go Bills!

I do scrollsaw during the winter or rainy days during the summer. I play golf as often as I can and really enjoy the game and where I play. So most of my scrollsaw resolve around golf as far as sport design goes. Attached are a few pictures of some of the stuff that I cut and mostly gave away.

I have shown this chessboard before. Made it for oldest son and two grandsons. As a side discussion, when someone makes big money being accountable an responsible. Like CEOs of big corporations, people think it is bad an being greedy. But let someone make $110 million over couple of years playing with a ball an they think that is great!