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Fancy hardwood base,1/2" thick 1/8" rose, & 5/8" name. Rattle can spray. Dollar tree sheet bling, captains varnish on just the base to hold pink walmart fine glitter powder. Blue bling was attached with titebond 2 glue.pattern was made on microsoft office word, not sure where the rose came from but my guess is Steve Good.

This is a Sue Mey pattern but I changed the base because I didn't like the big large round base I prefer the smaller oval one. The base is pine and Kokopelli is blackheart sassafras. This one is for me, I have loved this little fellow every since I first saw him about 20 years ago. Marg

Hi had a go at another one of steves great templates. Turned out ok in the end 3 attempts on the lettering broke the "E"s Little bit of sanding to do then a varnish.

Another Steve Good pattern (he is so good to us scrollers), although he suggests 1/2" timber for the basket, I used 1 1/4" Mahogany as I have lots at hand, the top and bottom are as Steve suggests 1/4" again Mahogany, this has come out at 5" tall 5 3/4 long and 4 1/2 deep ( I did enlarge the pattern slightly), not sure what it will used for yet, but I'm sure something will come to mind

JGR pattern. Use cherry and walnut woods.made to give to a friend.

Steve Good patterns. Made using oak, poplar, blood wood. Cut using #5 & #3 MG. Finished with 3 coats of Arm R Seal.

I have a lot of friends that like this pattern. It's my fourth time cutting it

Challenge accepted -- Nailed it I believe 30 x 40 overall - all in 1/4 and 3/8 Baltic birch except frame. All cut with a #3 modified geometry. Learned some new things to add to my arsenal - always a good thing!! Sorry haven't been on here much -- spend most of my time with this work and grand littles

My daughter coaches synchronized swimming. I did these ornaments for her team. Glittery paint in the background and "diamonds" bling around the edge.

I made this for a friend who has 2 cats and wanted to hide the litter box. It's made from red oak for the frames, they are joined with mortise and tendon joints. The plywood panels are 1/8" Baltic birch, I don't remember where I found the pattern for the cats. That's the problem with finding a pattern and making copies of it for future use.

Always enjoy Sues patterns!

Another Steve Good pattern I had to try. Used Pegas #5ST blade on 3/4inch pine for the honeycomb and #3ST for the 1/4 inch honeybee. A trip to the local craft store for the green felt and finished with Satin Poly. Originally stained the honeybee with too dark a color and wound up using the wife's acrylic paint after sealing it. Which leads me into a whole 'nother lot learning to do when it comes to wood/stain/paint/etc. etc. etc.

In attempting to give Tom a 5 o'clock shadow I just made him look like he had a skin condition. Since I'll be seeing a lot of him in my shop I cut it again minus the whiskers and a few other minor changes. Close enough.

Friday 19th I ordered two sets of signature coins from Steve Good. Today 22nd I got them!! I am not that far from Steve. He is just cross border in Ky an I am in East Central IN. But to make an mail same day is wild!!

My jointer and planer are stand alone. The planer is on the Dewalt dedicated stand that is on wheels, so it lives in the corner until needed. The Jointer is a Jet 6" it is also on a wheeled base that has never worked very well and the jointer is very heavy. Most of my jointing is short pieces so I don't need to move it. most of my tools are on wheels except for my Nova DVR XP 16 lathe.

I just watched a video on this saw Looks like you bought yourself a nice tool. The one thing he pointed out was that the saw draws a lot of power and to make sure to use it on a 20 amp circuit and if using an extension cord it should be a 12 gauge. It has a really nice fence. I look forward to your review.

Pattern by Russ Beard, a great designer. 1/8" laminated Russian BB cut one up, no stacking needed. #2/0 Pike blade. 400 holes and saw time was 7-1/2 hours. The laminated BB is a joy to cut and although Pike blades have no reverse teeth there is negligible tear-out on the back. I hate finishing and this material needs none. Frame via Hobby Lobby.

If you're on Facebook be sure to join the Facebook Group dedicated to this saw. Just search Delta 36-725 owners and it should come up. loads of little tips and tricks about that saw. Also a guy on there sells a motor upgrade kit you could call it that fixes most of the motor problems some have with the saw.

This is my second project. This is a Steve Good pattern. I'm still amazed I didn't break any small pieces. I did martial arts when I was a bit younger and competed in a few competitions.

I have my planer on a cabinet an jointer, router an down draft sanding box on turn table.

Saw artist pirate make this. First big novel I ever read. I knew I had to make my own pattern and cutting. So shout out to him for inspiration. And a ornimate I never got to at Christmas and another cook sign for a cousin. And working on another inspired piece for my son. Ty you guys.

I really like the fence and I haven't even got it all out of the box! That puppy is solid.

Grats on the purchase and the new arrival Can't wait to see what you do with it!

I think you will really like the saw. Money wise, it's a great choice and you'll love the ease of mobility. Phil

Are you planning on taking that saw with you to Texas next winter?

I think it is good idea for a gift if you want to present something you made by your hands and thank your doc or any medic. My project was already gifted. Video of making Heart project Heart pattern

Yes I'm in the northeast part of Florida. Got Kevin's message and replied. I may be good to go. Have a control board in the mail. No bad connections or burnt wires anywhere. Going to grease all the bearings while its apart

Work in progress, Fiona Kingdon's "Any Port In The Storm" pattern from the spring SSWWC magazine. Always wanted to cut one of hers! FD 2/0 blades, VERY slow speed, 3/16 ply. Got the last layer on the saw as we speak. Very thin, fragile piece, there's no zipping from one cut to the next. This one you DEFINITELY want to plan ahead so that every spot ends with you cutting along a section of wood that's adjacent to an uncut area, for stability. I had one spot snap because I wasn't paying attention to the direction I started the cut, just went my normal counter-clockwise and ended up having it break on me. Two others cracked as I was removing the pattern but were fixable with a little wood glue. This one took a while to cut......I'd guestimate about 15 hours or so, because I wasn't rushing anything and temperatures have dropped down into the single digits and even with two heaters going, the fan blowing sawdust out of the way just made my fingers start hurting. So, basically....it was an awesome time!

hi all, hope ye are keeping safe and well duriing these trying times, last january i had the honour of becoming a godfather to my nephew charlie, i would love to make him a toy for his first birthday which is coming up soon but have no idea what to make, any suggestions ,

Nice stand, Marge. I am also a Kokopelli fan. Can't remember when I wasn't. Partly because I like to say the name... Makes me smile. Good thing I had my kids before I knew of him,,,,, my son may have been named Kokopelli!!

I have my Festool vac setup to come on with the scroll saw, the speed is set to low, most of the noise is at the nozzles, not from the vacuum.

What do those of you with jointers and planers mount them on? What works best...one table or two? Regular or flip top?

Beautiful. Lovely contrast. Marg

Another amazing job, well done. Marg

I 'm short of space so I'm going with a flip top and put my planer on one side and my Ridgid spindle sander on the other. It's gonna work out great.

Hard to believe but a lot of trade skills are needed for our projects!!! Looks great!!!

cool. The thickness difference is a nice touch.

I probably didn 't make myself clear on the running of the vac. There are good vacuums that have a system incorporated into them that causes them to come on on demand. I have Fein vac and I know that Festool also has that feature. I had at one time a very good Porter Cable shop vac that had it also. I'm sure there are others and you can even build your own switch/outlet box that will do it for you. At this point, I have my on EX hooked up to my Fein vac but the other one is the saw that I'm trying to build a self-contained dust system for. When finished I will be able to take the saw anywhere I want and it will have it's own dust control. I am going to try to use it off the foot switch and see how it works out. If it goes bad, I'll know that it was n't a good idea and just have to get another Metrovac. They aren't all that expensive. In your case, you might go on eBay and look at the Oreck carry around vacs. They are on there always and I just bought one for $10 plus shipping. I will outperform the MetroVac a bunch. I will try that one on my EX that is hooked up the the Fein now. It's more of a game at this point to see just what I can come up with. The heart of the system though is the tiny cyclones that some of us bought on Amazon. I got both of mine, made of aluminum, for under $20 each. The price has since gone up and they are also making them out of plastic. Whatever, they work great. They have 1 inch ports and work great with the MetroVacs and the Orecks. Something to think about. In your case, if you can isolate your shop vac in another room or outside and use a remote switch on it, that will make life a lot better for you. Hang in there, you are well on your way.

Yes! Looking forward to playing with my new toys...I mean tools. Besides the table saw I have not unboxed the new planer or jointer yet either! Snow and sub-zero set in and I don't have enough heat in the shop to mess with it. Hoping it'll stay a decent temp so the heater will keep up with it for the next couple of weeks.

A few years ago, I had an idea of making some little things from scapes that I could carry in my pockers and randomly hand out to little children.... I came up with this little bear.. I thought it was cute, but I was not brave enough to hand them out.. A lot of parents are, understandingly, cautious about strangers giving their children things... I did not want some parent hitting me over the head or calling the police on me.

Looks like I skipped the section in the manual that went over this. Factory default is outer thread, but for less vibration and finer work on thin stock then use the inner thread.

Super vases. You've done really well with them!

When it doesn’t look perfect up close, it’s called museum quality. Everything is at a distance in a museum. I have a few like that.

Wow so nice

They were a cheap tool that saved a ton of time. I think when I retired, they were still about $30 for the whole setup.

Thanks all!! I'll open the top cover and check wiring going up to the switch and recheck all the other wires. I did pull the circuit board and nothing visibly scorched. Yes, I've been using saw about 7 months. and done a lot of scrolling trying to build up inventory. When it quit it kinda acted like it had no power and was struggling to stay running for a few seconds then popped the fuse. Question:::: How do you get the brushes out? I remove the caps and they don't want to come out. When I've replaced brushes in past tools they all had a spring attached and just popped out. Motor does spin freely. I do have a circuit board ordered just in case. $85 wasn't bad. I've always been one to have spare parts on hand for things (ex wife said I was a hoarder, but whatever. LOL) My quandary is this: I'm retired and trying to start a small glass and wood gift/souvenir business here in Florida because Social Security sucks. Lots of snowbirds and vacationers that love craft fairs etc. I could order a Pegas but waiting until April for it is kinda out of the question. Other alternative is to grab a Delta for 381.07 off amazon and get the 4 year extended warrantee so at least I can get it fixed. I'm on a fixed income and dont have money for both. Last choice would be using my old tired 2 speed Dremel I've had for about 20 years.. Thinking NOOO!

Thanks Charley, you just denigrated a whole bunch of us "lazy" folks. I've never owned a rip blade. I guess I better buy one. And then a crosscut blade. I always used my Forrest Woodworker II blade for everything. Oh well, everyday I learn something. And Charley, this was all meant in jest. I have the utmost respect for your knowledge and expertise!

I do each column then I do the individual pieces out of that column. I do not tape anything back together as I go. Here is a shot of what that looks like... (as I was doing the simple 35 piece puzzle for my grandson) Once you start cutting the pieces out, the column is only held together at one end but I found that it is real easy to keep it together adequately while you cut even with a higher piece count puzzle. I purposely drift off the pattern lines to ensure that everything only fits together when using the correct piece. I use dollar store foam board to attach the pattern to and then the foam board is tapes (along the edges) to the photo board. The pattern was too big for my printer on this one so I had to tape it together. This picture is just before I taped it up for cutting (just like stack cutting). BTW, I found that it is unnecessary to wrap the whole thing in tape as just the edges is all it takes.

From what can be seen in the photo the cutting looks real good. Having never tried to cut a puzzle, I'm curious. What is your cutting procedure? One piece at a time or row by row? Do you tape the rows together as you go?