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I am only a learner to sroll sawing. I got my new carbatec scroll saw yesterday. I am feeling proud of doing this as I have never done anything like this before. I had only been cutting out the outside of things with my ryobi (now in cupboard). I was scared to have a go at this and taking the blade in and out through the holes and learning about my new saw, wooo hoooo I did it. Still need to sand it as the owl is only sitting loose on the back board. Not sure if to paint the owl or not Susan

I thought I would post this group of cuts so you did not need to read the same thing over and over. These are all patterns converted from ZM Creations Illustrations. All of these portraits were completed in a similar way with a smaller sized 5/32” thick solid core plywood cut panel affixed to a larger 1/4” thick BB plywood backer. Each backer was sealed, then coated with the white Krylon Spray Gesso (Acrylic Paint primer) and the 1” borders were painted in various rattle can Krylon Fusion All-In-One Matt colors. The areas under the open cut areas were colored with Acrylic Art Paints, using the original illustrations as a guide. As usual, each panel was protected with multiple coats of clear gloss spray Lacquer. Each cut, being quite simple, was completed in less than one 3-4 hour session. That was a one per day but painting and framing added many hours to each. Cuttings were completed with Pegas #1 MGT R and/or #2/0 spiral blades. Each panel was set loose in a simple 1 3/4” wide Poplar frame that I applied a coat of pre-stain conditioner followed by a coat of Minwax Brazilian Gel Stain and protected with coat of Spray satin Polyurethane. Peacock: 9” x 10 ¼” Maple Toucan: 9”X12” Maple Birds3: 9” x 10 3/4” Maple Birds4: 11 1/2” x 9” Birch Bird5: 9” x 9” Birch Bird6: 6” x 11 3/4” Maple The following .zipx file contains all of these patterns including the Simple Eagle. Birds - ZM Creations.zipx Hope you enjoy!

Now, I know absolutely nothing about bikes, but a friend asked if I could do this for him. I've never painted anything before as I prefer plain wood and plain backers however I said I'd give it a try. Just hope he likes it as it's going to the USA and I don't want it back. It's a gift so he can do with it as he wishes. It was, to me, a pain in the backside to get right, so I doubt I'll do another one

I have a clock on both my Hegners. Just cheap $12 alarm clocks from Amazon tied into a three way plug. Why a clock? I find I'm always curious how long I cut on a project, mostly fret work especially with lots of holes. I'm cutting a piece with perhaps over 1000 holes many of which are not much bigger than the blade. I don't sell anything so it is just for my own curiosity. If I were selling I would certainly want to know the time spent on projects. The clock runs when the saw does. Of course all the time spent drilling and switching blades from hole to hole has to be estimated. Overall I just find it fun.

Just a reminder, please not to share patterns you didn't design yourself. If they're from a book, there are copyrights attached to those patterns. Instead, point them in the direction where they can obtain the patterns for themselves. This is also true for patterns from other websites and digital products. Even if they're free patterns, many times the artist wants to control how their hard work is distributed. We want to respect the designer's wishes and support the artists that make these wonderful patterns. There are times when the designer has passed away and the patterns are no longer available for purchase. It may seem like copyrights no longer pertain or we may want to extend their legacy by sharing their work. Unfortunately, copyrights still do persist 70 years beyond the designer's death. The rights are transferred to his/her estate. It is up to their estate as to what they want to do with the designs. Also, please remember that I'm just a solo guy who runs SSV on the side for the scrolling community. I try hard to make this a friendly place with a ton of great information and resources. We have a fostered a group of really great people who want to be helpful. Sometimes we don't think anything of sharing a pattern with a fellow scroller. But please keep this in mind. We can't use SSV as a platform to share patterns that don't belong to us. A single letter from a cranky lawyer could potentially shut down the whole website. So I try to be diligent about protecting copyrighted works. SSV is a big place and I can't see it all. If you see something that doesn't belong, please flag it for review (the 3 dots under the upper right corner). Clayton or I will take a closer look. Thank you for understanding.

Finally done! 50 patterns - US states. I tried to make detailed but not to difficult contours of states, size is 9 x 5,5 inches. I cut only one pattern - Texas, I used 1/6 inch birch plywood and wood stains for finishing (recommend to use 3 stains or 3 types of wood) Video of making US state project US states patterns

So the other night we had the neighbors young kids over and I tried to lay hands on my Penny Drop game I made a few years ago (BSS - Before Scroll Sawing). Not to be found, we went with a card game instead. After searching the house twice over to no avail, I remembered a Penny Drop pattern on (you guessed it) Steve Good's website. Shocked and amazed, I got this cut out and assembled in what seemed like only 2-3 hours. But who knows how long it took - when I get cutting, I lose all track of time and the clock is behind me. If you've never played the game, give it a try. You can even make up your own rules to include your favorite beverage (wink and grin). On a side note - I'm thinking this could be a money maker for those that cut for a living with stack cutting 3 or 4 at a time. Thoughts?

I ran my DeWalt for 10 years production cutting.. Never replaced the clamps either.. Bought some as spares as everyone mentioned how the over tightening will spread the clamp and or strip the threads.. It's important to maintain the clamps though.. Keep the little spinning insert on the thumb screw lubed and spinning freely.. Keep oil off of them but yet you need to keep the threaded part oiled and working very smoothly.. gritty threads can make you over tighten on the blade and or get the threads boogered up.. When lubed up and working properly I was always able to feel that rubber O-ring squish when tightening the blade.. that was my Q to say that the blade is tight enough.. If it's slips then I need to dress the end and clean / oil the thread.

Hi Everyone Here is a Sue Mey leopard clock I made for my brother's 10th wedding anniversary. Thanks! Tyrone

They'll be even better when you get them done. Thanks for all you do.

I stand on my head and scroll but I can't do it for very long. :>)

I did the Lions head out of 3mm dibond aluminum sign ...other ones out of 3mm Aluminum..I used pegas No5 reverse skip

The original pattern was clockmans. Jim Blume revised it to cut 8.5x11. it pushed the limits that small

Cutting done on the second layer. Just need to clean off the fuzzies on the back, and decide on stains! Also a couple of photos with the two layers together (including the little ship). There will be a spacer between the two layers.

About 10 or so years ago I had a customer request a special cross for a remembrance piece for their father. I made one of these crosses for each of the kids whos father had passed.. At the time they was cut from spalted maple as shown in the photo.. I had a large amount of it given to me.. and still have most of it left.. Beautiful wood but for fret scrolling the light and dark streaks takes away from the cutting.. Anyway the customer contacted me a couple weeks back when I was on Vacation and said sadly her brothers house had burnt to the ground and he lost everything.. asked if I could make another one similar.. Fortunately I save ALL my custom order patterns.. well I save any patterns I have cut and sold in a special folder and back it up onto thumb drives and disc etc.. so I knew where to look for the design.. Talk about customer service... I made the piece for them and mailed it out totally free of charge and thanked her for doing business with me back when I was first starting my online selling venture.. First picture is the original.. second is the replacement I made.. Due to the spalted maple wood grain I didn't cut out the leaf decor on the originals.. I cut the second one from a piece of Poplar.. Kind of wish I had done it out of cherry but that poplar board was just staring at me like choose me me me.. LOL Turns out his favorite wood is lighter colored wood so it all worked out great in the end.

I did one some time ago that I wanted to paint the backer different colors as you do... I printed another copy of the pattern, cut out the spots I wanted to paint with an xacto knife, taped the pattern to the backer and painted the cut out spots.. worked get. The cut out didn't have to be exact, like following the lines on the pattern, you want some overlap anyway.. but close..

I experience the same with blades.. But I don't think it has to do with the speed.. but I do think it's from heat.. For instance.. I don't run my Hawk full speed.. Probably closer to the same speed as max speed on the EX.. which I do run full speed. However.. when I had my DeWalt, I did run it full speed ( 1700 spm ).. and blades lasted longer than the Hawk still.. I think it has more to do with the blade having a more straight up / down movement on the Hawk which doesn't back the blade away from the material nearly as much and letting the sawdust clear better. The short rocker arm saws such as the DW, EX etc saws give a more rocking motion of the blade which backs the blade out away farther from the heated cut line.. Even though you adjust the blade to be more straight up / down at the table height it's still backing away motion enough to cool the blade more.. Also as you noted.. those long arms ( especially on the 26" saw ) create a lot more stress on the blade than that little short arm of those other saws.. There is probably "some" blade flex with those long arms and having it powered from the lower arm like they are designed especially with those real small blade.. Randy ( HotShot ) talked about this flexing issue when he had his Hawk.. I don't use anything smaller than a #3 most times unless it's a spiral.. most times those are a 2/0.. I'm not sure how you all adjust your saws.. but I've never been able to get as true of a straight up down at the material height on my EX as I get with the Hawk.. I have it set as close as it can get.. yet it's still more aggressive cutting than the Hawk is.. However I do set the blade angle on my new Hawk to be slightly more aggressive.. since I do mostly cut 1/2 - 3/4 material most all the time.. But cutting 1/8 - 1/4 material I find the Hawk is easier to control the cut than the EX is.. Both are doable easily but the Hawk I'm more " relaxed" during the cutting process.. If that makes sense.

If you ever have a problem with your40-694 clamps, just sand them flat. I have never needed new clamps.

You can do it. Thanks for all that you do for the Village. Larry

Yeah, I just read it also and my take-aways were that 1) sealed bearings make for a machine that needs less maintenance and 2) there seems to be enough demand for scroll saws that even if you bought a saw you decided you didn't like, you would be able to resell it and recoup most of your money, chalking up the difference to research and experience. And 3) For those who scroll saw for a living, machine maintenance/replacement costs and associated time is a part of the business and has to be quantified to get a true picture of how efficient their business is. For me, it's a hobby and I'm having a blast with it.

You will get there Travis, I know what you feel like as I have done the same once or twice. My problems were minor compared to yours but I am sure you will make out ok.

Sorry to hear you have to go through so much work now, Travis, God Bless! Spirithorse

Travis, so sorry to hear. Does your web server not do backups of the files stored there just in case they have a problem?

I am a HD rider, but I'm not into skulls. That being said, it is a great piece, very well cut and colored nicely. Most HD riders (i'm an exception) would l;ove to hang that piece in their man/lady biker cave. If you think that pattern was a PITA, this is the one I did for my son a number mounths ago (while I was still a real newbie):

I created this Cougar using red oak, maple base, and purple heart for accent. I made it for my brother as a gift. This is actually the third one I made. The first 2 broke. I told myself if the third one broke he was getting coasters instead. LoL!!

Just looked, my keyboard is missing the undelete key as well. Go soothe yourself with a rib eye and an adult beverage. You deserve it.

I am so sorry! I have been watching your tutorials and so grateful to you sharing your knowledge in such an easy to understand way. Thank you

Generally speaking the numbers that probably matter most are the blade size classification. The No. 1, No. 3, No. 5, etc. are mostly for quick and easy reference. The smaller the number, the smaller the blade and higher the number of teeth per inch of blade length. The other numbers are the actual specifications for the blade. 18t would be 18 teeth per inch. The other numbers are physical dimensions of the blade, length, thickness and width. I don't often pay much attention to those, unless I'm comparing blades or trying to determine the size hole to drill for blade entry. For 1/4" thick wood, I would probably start with the smallest blade in the package. See how it works. Then, just for your reference, try the others out and compare how they cut. You will find that the smaller blades will cut 1/4" material well and be easier to control than the largest blade. The smallest blade will also cut 1" thick hardwood, just much more slowly than the largest blade and it will get dull faster and could be more prone to breaking.

This is the largest project I have done on the scrollsaw finished piece was nearly 2ft by 4ft. Lots of fun. 20200519_123328.heic

I made a couple. one derived from a quilt pattern, one a Judy Gale Roberts pattern

I like to support small businesses. I get mine from my local ACE Hardware. Look for the small shops.

Backup, Backup, Backup! I am sympathetic. I've been there, done that, and watched many other people go through it. In 35 years of working with computers and disaster recovery, I have heard this sort of story repeatedly. If it is important to you, back it up. My business and photos get backed up off-site as soon as I make a change. They get backed up to a system that does versioning. If I change a document it now has two versions that are both offsite. If your backup isn't offsite, you don't have a backup. If you haven't successfully restored a backup, you don't have a backup. Backups are a thankless boring job that no one cares about until disaster strikes. Suddenly, the guy with the backups becomes the most important person in the room. Monitor your backups. I have been given a stack of tapes to restore when a server failed to discover that all the tapes were blank. They had been changing the tapes every day, but no one had monitored the be sure the scheduled backup was running.

I admire the very realistic cuttings above but for myself I prefer to make more simplified "graphic" style images. It is a good thing we are not all the same.#

Oh Travis, my heart went out to you when I read this. It's gut wrenching when something like this happens. Take your time and don't panic do a little bit at a time when you feel up to it. All in the Village are behind you and will wait patiently I'm sure.

Ok - just new at this and first post, so be nice.

Did this during lockdown

Hi Travis: "IT" happens to all of us in one form or another Take Care Fab4

I love big cats ,tigers are my favourite here is a few I have done cheers Dan

This is my first post, sorry for the english, I don't speak very well! These is my old works, they are subjects found on the net but still made by me. I hope you like them

I purchased your CD's years ago and still have them. I guess you do, also. At least that part is good Dick heppnerguy

Oh Travis.... so sorry to hear. I am always concerned about hitting the wrong key. As a former boss said, "at least you did kill someone. This too can be fixed!!"

SUMATRAN TIGER cut from a slab of natural edge tiger maple. Finished piece is 31" x 11"

Down Right Awesome!!!

Looks great Kirk! I’m planning on cutting that pattern as soon as I find the right boards.

Stained (Minwax Natural on top, Weathered Oak middle, and Dark Walnut for the back. Ship is Ebony, and shows up better than the photos indicate) and glued up. There's a 3/16 spacer in between each layer. Once the glue is dry (ie....I'm tired, its late, and tomorrow's Friday-FamilyDay), I'll belt-sand the edges and ponder on a frame.

Congrats on the new saw. Mighty impressive looking. As for choosing blades etc. Here is a link to Olson's web site. They have a Blade Chart you can download for free. Check out the pattern section here, you may find something that will appeal to you. Best of luck with you new saw and remember to keep it fun.

This project of LEOPARDS was cut from a large piece of natural edge hard maple and the finished project is 36" x 15"