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Did this out of 1" Rough Cut Cedar. Half was done with a regular blade the other half with a spiral.

Sasho contributed the pattern for this to our library about a year ago. To me, it's both sad and happy at the same it. I immediately cut it, but only this week got around to framing 'Life' and it now hangs over my desk. The foreground, the background, and the frame are all quarter-sawn white oak.

One of my customers asked me to make train layered pattern for his 60 anniversary. Usually I dont make custom orders, but I thought it could be nice pattern, and here it is Video of making Steam train Steam train pattern

I am a huge music fan, especially Bluegrass. I decided to do this Charles Dearing pattern, with a few minor variations, and it took me a bit longer to cut and finish it than I thought it would, but hey, it was Covid time so it doesn’t really matter. I am sometimes having a tough time staying focused on the task at hand, which is definitely not my norm. A lot of Bluegrass songs feature the word “breakdown” (i.e.Foggy Mountain Breakdown), so I decided to call my version of this, “Covid Breakdown.” As is my norm, it is pretty small at 8 1/2”x 6,” and was mainly cut with Pegas 2/0 and #1 spiral blades. I hope you all enjoy it.

I finished this vase and these bird wall hangers this morning. I used bamboo for the birds and think I will use it on something else. I thought it might be hard to work with but it was easier to work than I thought. Onward through the fog.........

Young man that I consider a son is getting married tonight.

Wife is redoing my son's room and I decided to make trinkets for it. The paint color of his room is Suddenly Starfire. Which gor me thinking Teen Titans and the next pattern was a fish in the workbook. Some tweak, some color, and... Beast Boy as a Fish Number 3 blade with some picket wood. Inspired by the Gwinnett folks on Youtube. Craig of the Creek pop out picture. Done with a 2/0 which honestly didn't really like using. I do wonder if I should put a clear coat on this as it is a printed picture.

A favorite actor of mine, Denzel Washington. Seems to be a good and wise man off the screen as well. If this actor is in it, I'll watch a movie with bad reviews just to see him act. Any guesses? I'll add his smile to see if that helps.

Adam Savage once said on his channel to start with the cheapest version of a tool that does what you want. Once you used it then you'll know what you want in the best version or you'll know it's not worth the money. To that end I've wanted a scroll saw since I was a kid, so for about 28 years. I recently got some money as the employee of the quarter and I had an excuse. I went looking for a scroll saw in my budget and I found this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-International-1-2-Amp-16-in-Variable-Speed-Scroll-Saw-with-Flex-Shaft-LED-Work-Light-BT8007/206347735 The General International 16in Variable Speed Scroll saw. The saw can take Pin or Pinless blades. In general I like it for what it is. A beginner scroll saw. The one thing though that I really didn't like was the it uses an Allen Wrench to remove and add the blade. That needed to change. Look at the manual I noted that bolt was just an M4-0.7 hex head bolt. To McMaster-Carr, the parts would have been $11 with $11 shipping and come in 1-3 weeks. To Amazon: M4 Star Knob - Swpeet 15Pcs M4 7 Star Knob Female Thread Nut Clamping Knob Grip Assortment Kit, Star Shape Hand Knobs Black Plastic Screw-On Handle Clamping Knob for Mechanical Equipment (M4): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific M4 Threaded Bar - Amazon.com: uxcell M4 x 110mm 304 Stainless Steel All Threaded Rod Bar Studs Fastener 10 Pcs: Home Improvement $16.50 Total and could be here in 2 days. We have a winner even thought I'm not fond of the star knobs. Biggest problem is I can only tilt the table 15 degrees as I went with a long bottom pull to clear the guard and well... the guard is built in a way that the hole is off... I may turn that into a stubby like the top. Plus the blade wants so slip a little from the bottom but, I don't think its the swap out causing that as much as I think I need to rough up that grip somehow. Suppers ready so I'm going to expand this a little later if others are interested in the steps and why. ------------ Bit of an update. Needes to loctite the bottom and top ones at the grip. Today I made a new plate for the where the saw goes. Its clear so the visibility is up.

"Welcome" sign finished. The pattern is by Keith Fenton and found in CWWC March 2014. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 and #5 Skip blades. The wood is 1/2" Poplar 8" x 14" and backed with Baltic Birch plywood stained blue. Comments welcome.

Another quick cut, probably 6 hours total in the project. I wanted to give a tip from Steve Good's newsletter a try. He'd written about another scroller who wrote in to him and said that he (the other scroller) gave the back of each of his projects a quick spritz with rattlecan shellac before applying the pattern and drilling pilot holes, and the shellac helped to keep the fuzzies to a minimum regardless of whether a reverse-tooth blade was used or not. I decided to give it a try. A quick spray (ProTip: when spraying outside, pay attention to the direction of errant wind gusts. Took me a couple of days to clean off my glasses.), let it dry, flipped it over and taped/glued the pattern. I used a spiral blade for some of the cuts (still not a fan of them, they're handy but my ability to draw a straight line is...um...nonexistent) and a straight blade for the vast majority, and dang if it doesn't work! There were fuzzies, but they were tiny and rigid/brittle and most disappeared with a quick pass of some 220-grit on a palm sander. I think I'll be using this trick from now on.

Great blizzard! So far there is about 12" outside, unbelievable. However, it is nice and toasty in my shop. Have not had this much snow in a long time but March is our snowiest month. I can't shovel but wife does. But this is an unusual amount of snow. Gave the snow blower to our son in law because they have this big three car driveway. My grandson is coming over tomorrow to dig us out. First photo is out my shop window, the other is out the back yard.

Oillite bushings make great sense. I doubt my bushings will ever need replacement but oillite would make sense.

Beautifully done, will try the spray tip on my next piece, thanks

Glad to hear you got it up and running good again.. Yes you should get plenty of new life out of it.

I finished it this afternoon. All went great and it is a lot smoother and quiet. Definitely worth the money and should last me quite awhile. Thanks for all your help.

Perhaps 20 or more years ago I attended a woodworking show where I watched a dime being crossed out on a Hegner. At that time I didn't know a scroll saw from a ham sandwich. The demo was fascinating. I was the only one watching at that particular moment and was given a long demo. He said that the Hegner was the only saw that had a perfect up and down motion. Course that comment stuck in my mind. Now of course, I know that is not true, just a sales pitch. However I was fascinated but I recall the show special was something like $800. I could be all wet on that. But, eversince then I wanted one. Not for scrolling per se but for cutting out small brass clock parts. I had been using a piercing saw or fret saw. It was not until I discovered scrolling art work did I finally get two used Hegners, an 18" and 14". Scrolling has never been the same. Sorry for the Highjacked thread.

In my previous post under Scrollers Q&A about preparing wood before painting, in his reply Dave Monk included a pic of his cut from this pattern by Jenevski that can be found in the SVV Patterns Library. It kind of jumped out at me, and since Eagles is my favorite subject, I just had to cut it. The cut panel is 5/32” x 11” x 14” Solid Core Birch plywood which I affixed to a 1/4” x 12” x 15” BB ply backer. Cutting was completed with a Pegas #0 spiral blade. Coloring of the backer was completed a little different for this project. I did prep the panel with a sealer and then used Krylon Spray Paint with Primer to paint the Red, Blue and Gold. I did use a lot of blue painters tape to mask off the various areas so I could paint each color. Of course, after all painting and assembly was completed I protected the panel with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. The frame is 1 3/4” wide Poplar that I added a store bought decorative bead detail available from Lowes. After prepping the frame with a pre-stain the frame was stained with Minwax Water Based Semi Transparent Royal Pine (Blue) stain and then finished with a coating of Minwax Water Based Polycrylic Clear Satin Protective Finish.

Ray, thx, I will watch it later, thinking about trying this form of art, RJ

If you like living in a area like you do and only want to relocate for "other" reasons, Central Florida would be a good choice. I think the weather would be quit similar although we do get a few cool (low 40's) weeks a year, and probably more rain then you are used to. There is the rainy season and the dry season - which ios just not quite as rainy, The West Coast (Gulf side) is very nice, but quite populated and lots of traffic around the Tampa area. The East Coast (Atlantic Side) is a little more spacious, less crowded (as long as you stay awey from the Orlando and Attractions areas), and trafic is not too bad most of the time. Like everywhere, poetically speaking, there are the nice side of the tracks and the not so nice side. All it takes is some research to know what kind of area you want to live in and to know what your pocketbook can afford. We live in Ormond Beach on the East Coast about 7 mile north of the worlds most famous "Daytona Beach" and the home of the Daytona International Speedway. I'd say OB is on the little bit more upscale side of the tracks . We had down sized considerbly when we move here and have a small 1600 SF 2 BR duplex on a very small piece of property (A reaseon my shop is so small) but it is free and clear while utilities, taxes and upkeep are low. More than enough for just the two of us. especially at my age. However, OB has some very upscale areas with high end homes as well. The city maintains the roads and public spaces very well. Although CA is a Blue State and FL is a Red state it won't make much of a difference living wise. I personaly just keep my head down and my mouth shut when any thing politically arrises. Mostly others just do the same. And don't forget...no state income tax. But, also, just remember, there are not many native Floridians, just mostly all us transplants call Floridiotes!!!!

The only "bearings" that I know of on a Hegner are the two that are located in the bell-crank arm attached to the motor and lower arm. And as far as I know they are sealed. The reference has to be about greasing the arm bushings. I wonder why they don't just use an oilite bushing instead.

I'm not sure if you understand what it is all about Les. It doesn't take up any more space that what you are doing now. It's just another way to create something on your scroll saw. You can make artistic panels as small as you want or as large as you want. Just think about making a jewelry box with a flat lid and you want to embellish it with a flower or a bird. You can do it with this artform. Not a big thing at all. Instead of doing fretwork on a flat table square to your blade, you'll be tilting the table and cutting out the pieces at an angle so that one piece will drop into the background piece. Actually, you'll be working with the pieces that you usually toss away or get sucked up in your vacuum.

Are you lubing the bushings with a paste? Do you remove them each time to lube them? Or are you talking bearings,,, I do no know of bearings on a hegner... Not saying there isn't any, just saying I do not know of any..

I've looked at that pattern many times..... Like you say happy and sad... You did a great job with it.

Beautiful job! Very well done on the framing!

Ray, I have been looking for this video you referred to, but can't find it. If you have a link I would appreciate it, Thx RJ

Havn't seen any snow since moving to Central Florida in '14. Last snow I had to put up with was in NC...and that's what made me move to Florida. Getting old and snow just does not go together!

This worked for a long time. I recently had to replace the rubber band and am now back in business!

Are you referring to me or Ceric?

I'll never do marquetry. Too old to learn another discipline. I am curious what the difference is with #11 Xacto blades . I used to buy them in 1000 blade batches for my art department years ago and did not know there was a difference. I'm still wiling to learn but just a little. :>)

First time I've really gotten to look at what they have. There explanations and everything are really cool. If I wasn't so price shocked that top one would be a wing nut style bolt because they had one of the perfect size.

Being a tinkerer I'm always interested in modifications, changes and such. Both my Hegners are quite different from original. I order from McMaster-Carr. Made a mistake ordering from them three days ago. I ordered a three foot length of 6mm cold roll steel. The4 steel was just under $7. The order said shipping and tax would be added. When I got the invoice the shipping was over $36. Dang near fainted. My stupidity. They shipped it in a heavy 4" diameter X 42" heavy cardboard tube. Should have ordered three on foot pieces which would be much cheaper. However, that being said, they ship fast and there is nothing they do not have.

I like mine; although i don't use it in a year as much as you would in a month. I have been using Honda Moly 60 Paste to lube the bearings. If you look up and read a little bit about this sort of grease and Molybdenum Disulphide, you will find it will lubricate after the carrier oil is burned off and up through about 700 degrees f. Way overkill for our needs; which to me makes it a perfect fit as it decreases time between lubes. I've made a sacrificial table for mine as I don't have that nice insert in the table. The bump stop has been moved so the upper arm has more clearance. That was probably the single greatest mod to the saw. Makes getting parts in and out easier. Thats all I know. I think you will really like your new Hegner.

Wipe them as best as you can with a lintless shop towel or paper towel. Get as much grease off as possible and leave the rest. Pack in the new grease.

Hey Dan, I would ask Ray at Seyco, he is the expert.

I posted him on FB and someone guessed that first thing also. Not him though. A bit younger and no freckles. I'll add a picture with the smile to see if that helps.

That’s stunning work

Brings back fond memories... Great job!

Beautiful. Love the topic.

Wow that is an awesome pattern and cutting. Your best work in my opinion. Marg

Nice job! And interesting tip.

That is beautiful. You've done a great job on a very interesting subject!

Kow-wa-bunga! Looks great!

I love looking at photo of snow, thank you. Marg

Beautiful. Very well cut for somebody who doesn't like spirals. Straight lines are very dificult with spiral blades, but as you get more practice, it becomes possible. I find it hard to get the straight line started, but once started on the correct track I can do a fairly good straight cut as long as I don't stop in the middle. Not necessarily proper technique, but I find if I err to the waste side of the line I can repair the line with a little gentle shaving with the spiral blade. Works for both long straight or curved lines.

When I had my delta and dewalt saws I had problems with the blade alinement. I used a michinist square ( 2"). to aline my blades both saws the table was a pain to aline. My excalaber is real simple. when you tighten the table after alining the blade it sometimes doesnd't stay true. IKE

Depicts life so accurately. I'm next to the last!

I just got a used ex-21 and had the same problem, I found the cause on another site. Insure the upper arm is parallel to the table top. Use the back tension knob to adjust it When you install the blade, install the top of the blade first and tighten the wing knob. Insure the upper arm is all the way down, and the blade in in the slot in the bottom blade holder and tighten Then flip the tension lever and use the back tension adjust if necessary. Once the back tension knob is adjusted it should not have to be adjusted again. the bottom of the blade can extend below the blade holder, but it can NOT extend above the top one. edited cause I have not had enough coffee yet, and again for the same reason, sigh

Check your blades for oil fro the manufacturing process. Sometime the oils not cleaned off the blade. Ran into this and cleaned the bottom and top of the blades and problem was resolved. A little denatured alcohol or mineral sprits fixed the problem. Remember to clean the clamps too though.