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Stack cut 4 from 1/8 bbply using a #3 Pegas MG3 blade. Three backers from 1/4” walnut ply and one from bbply and painted black. Keith Fenton pattern. While cutting these on the scroll saw I also had my CNC carving the flag. Flag carved from soft maple and sprayed with water based polyurethane and then spray painted black, sanded off overspray and top coated again with the poly.

This beautiful angel dances up front ever Sunday when our church band plays. I call this picture “Jesus gives me happy feet.”

Did this out of 1" Rough Cut Cedar. Half was done with a regular blade the other half with a spiral.

Hey Everyone ! In this scroll saw project video I show you how I do production work (making several) or more commonly known as stack cutting, on my scroll saw ! This is my preferred method of doing a bulk order and I hope you pick up some tips and tricks along the way ! Hope you all like the video ! Stay Safe ! #ArtisanPirate https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F4zatBV-qMs&t=16s

Got it, thank,, I think I remember you post now.... I have no problem with the stock ones.

Sasho contributed the pattern for this to our library about a year ago. To me, it's both sad and happy at the same it. I immediately cut it, but only this week got around to framing 'Life' and it now hangs over my desk. The foreground, the background, and the frame are all quarter-sawn white oak.

Hey everyone. My name is Tim. I live in Mooreville MS which is right outside Tupelo where Elvis was born. Lets see, I started scrolling on a Craftsman saw when my son was a baby. I made him a lot of his toys. I continued for a couple of years just doing small projects here and there. Then life happened and I let alcohol take all of my hobbies and health away from me. Finally this last year I had enough and sobered up. I dug out my old saw and started enjoying being creative again. Decided I wanted to get a little more into it and replaced the Craftsman with the new Delta. I LOVE IT!!!!!! I love making bowls and fretwork. Sometimes I scroll something out that should be cut with a spiral blade using a regular blade just for fun. I have a local place here that displays and sells my perfectly imperfect projects. I give some away and make things to donate for some local groups. Go check out my gallery and let me know what you think. Tim

A favorite actor of mine, Denzel Washington. Seems to be a good and wise man off the screen as well. If this actor is in it, I'll watch a movie with bad reviews just to see him act. Any guesses? I'll add his smile to see if that helps.

Unfortunately the “upgrade” from their “free” basic program to the Business Edition is about $100 ($99.99 to be exact.) and for people like us who want to use it for something other then getting files purchased from their download store and cutting to their cutter, you need more then their free program. I can try to help anytime you need help converting a pattern. I tend to be more of a “jack of all trades and master of none”

@octoolguyI use to have that book, went looking for it when you first mentioned it.... could not find it, I think I sold it in a yardsale several years ago, when I thought I had enough hobbies.... I just ordered another copy of it from my favorite ebay used book store for $8. Now I will find the one I thought I sold! Best way I know to find something is to buy another...and darn there it is!! You know what I mean?

Not much snow left here in Winnipeg,which is very unusual. Please keep it there!!

Ray, you are correct in that it is software. For a cutter line similar to the Cricut brand of cutters used by paper crafters. If you downloaded their “free” version you are not going to be able to do much with it other then use it to access. Their online store to download files for cutting which use a proprietary format for the most part. They have an upgraded version you can purchase that will let you work with and create SVG files that can be used outside of using with their cutter. I have had and used the electronic paper cutters and their programs many years now. I have used most all of them. For scrollers, the silhouette program is really not a great option probably. There are other 3rd party software programs used with the cutters that are better, especially for scrollers. One is no longer updated or supported but was probably the best and what drove the usage and standardized use of .svg files with many cutters. The other is still available and could be used by scrollers (I have and use them both.) However, they do cost some money. For most of what you might want to do, you would probably be able to save money and just learn the basics of a Inkscape which as you know is free. If I can help in anyway with that or the cutter programs I am happy to try. I will confess that I haven’t looked at the Silhouette software it’s self in a long time as I found other programs were better and more suited to my needs and was not interested in buying paper cutting patterns from their store. I do however participate and review regularly groups and forums for paper crafters with the electronic cutters so I do feel that I still have a good base knowledge on most of those.

I think this has run it's course or should go to a new posting. You are measuring 6.7cm and mine is 6.533cm. Arm up is 8.291cm. It is difficult to measure precisely. Those few thousandths will make no appreciable difference one way or the other. I'd rather just sit back and scroll. While trying to measure my eyeballs may not see correctly.

Arm down and tension on from my table top to bottom of clamp I measure 6.7. But that could be different for each machine depending on how much tension a person uses, type of blade, etc. Maybe that is not what you are asking..

They work and I've used them for some time but it takes, If I remember correctly, the left thumb and forefinger to hold the blade in place while you tighten the knob. I find it easier to just put the blade in a little hole and tighten the knob. It does not take the two finger approach. I had posted a photo but I think you said you didn't know what it was. I can post again if you wish.

I saw that, you need a CNC and a degree in engineering to build the jig! Sent that email straight to the trash.

Check out Cherokee Woodworking Product, under woodworking supplies then scrollsaw wood.... They have it in 1/8" what ever length you require, May have to glue two board together to get 12"wide. I have always gotten great service and produce from them. Worth calling and talking to them. @Rockytime here are the pictures you were trying to open, converted to jpeg. Going to be a beautiful project.. finescrollsaw.com pattern #81..

One of my customers asked me to make train layered pattern for his 60 anniversary. Usually I dont make custom orders, but I thought it could be nice pattern, and here it is Video of making Steam train Steam train pattern

I am a huge music fan, especially Bluegrass. I decided to do this Charles Dearing pattern, with a few minor variations, and it took me a bit longer to cut and finish it than I thought it would, but hey, it was Covid time so it doesn’t really matter. I am sometimes having a tough time staying focused on the task at hand, which is definitely not my norm. A lot of Bluegrass songs feature the word “breakdown” (i.e.Foggy Mountain Breakdown), so I decided to call my version of this, “Covid Breakdown.” As is my norm, it is pretty small at 8 1/2”x 6,” and was mainly cut with Pegas 2/0 and #1 spiral blades. I hope you all enjoy it.

Young man that I consider a son is getting married tonight.

In my previous post under Scrollers Q&A about preparing wood before painting, in his reply Dave Monk included a pic of his cut from this pattern by Jenevski that can be found in the SVV Patterns Library. It kind of jumped out at me, and since Eagles is my favorite subject, I just had to cut it. The cut panel is 5/32” x 11” x 14” Solid Core Birch plywood which I affixed to a 1/4” x 12” x 15” BB ply backer. Cutting was completed with a Pegas #0 spiral blade. Coloring of the backer was completed a little different for this project. I did prep the panel with a sealer and then used Krylon Spray Paint with Primer to paint the Red, Blue and Gold. I did use a lot of blue painters tape to mask off the various areas so I could paint each color. Of course, after all painting and assembly was completed I protected the panel with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. The frame is 1 3/4” wide Poplar that I added a store bought decorative bead detail available from Lowes. After prepping the frame with a pre-stain the frame was stained with Minwax Water Based Semi Transparent Royal Pine (Blue) stain and then finished with a coating of Minwax Water Based Polycrylic Clear Satin Protective Finish.

Look up Richard's Craft Woods on the internet. This is where I buy all my thin stock from. His website may not be much to look at but he has high quality thin stock. He ships all over the US. I'm may be lucky since this shop is about a 10 minute drive from the house. Actually unlucky because every time I go out there I spend a ton of money.

Great blizzard! So far there is about 12" outside, unbelievable. However, it is nice and toasty in my shop. Have not had this much snow in a long time but March is our snowiest month. I can't shovel but wife does. But this is an unusual amount of snow. Gave the snow blower to our son in law because they have this big three car driveway. My grandson is coming over tomorrow to dig us out. First photo is out my shop window, the other is out the back yard.

There is a video on the Gwinnett Woodworking site that shows how to do this without the fancy jig!!

Thanks Melanie, I was just watching a group on FB and someone posted a picture that was primarily black background with some with areas that were the pattern that the person wanted. They asked if someone could tell them how to convert it to a line drawing so as not to use up so much black ink in trying to do what they wanted to do. Someone came on and had converted it to a great line drawing using a green cut line. When asked how they did it they said they used Silhouette but the business version. So, I decided to see if I could figure it out. If what you say is true, I'll just uninstall it. I am trying really hard to figure out an easier way than using Inkscape because for some reason, I just can't make it work. I need someone like you sitting along side of me and showing me the error of my ways. I know it's a whole lot easier than what I am making it but for me, it's a mental block. And I am usually good at figuring things out.

The Bearings I speak of are the bearings/bushings in the pivots of the arms. They are very similar to plain bearings or con-rod bearings in a car. That moly 60 paste is thicker than peanut butter; I cleaned them up as best I could and put just enough on them to see that the color changed - kinda streaky black. I haven't had to service them since, but I don't use my saw nearly as much as you guys do. I can tell you that this stuff is literally the only stuff to lube the final drive of a shaft drive motorcycle with. Any other grease lets that wear out; that final drive hub and parts are HUGE $$$. Its prob overkill for our application, but I feel its the best option for the bearings. I would pack a ball or roller bearing with the stuff if I felt that it was an application that warranted it.

What is the distance between the top plate and the clamp, with blade in tension and the top arm on down position on your Hegner?

You asked. I can only tell you what mine is. There can't be an appreciate difference.

The type of clamps can influence the length of the blade and the distance

What make you say this, I mean in like why do you think they are crap? I have used them for several years with no problems...

On that I would agree. Inkscape is still a mystery to me and I can hear.

I made my own clamps as the Hegner, even the quick clamps, are crap.

I'd like to watch videos but not being able to hear the audio it is useless.

Thanks, I don't even know what I like more: making patterns or cutting them

My favorite snow is someone else’s

I had blade slipping on my ex20 so I changed to the pegas clamps . the best $100 spent . no slipping, I use Olson match blades and don't even have to sand the ends. IKE

This worked for a long time. I recently had to replace the rubber band and am now back in business!

I was worried about that and had the full 110mm on both spots. Not a problem. When that got cut down a bit still not having an issue. Now I am having an issue with the blade slipping out occasionally I need to figure out. I think the surfaces just need roughed up.

My Hegner arrived about 5-6 weeks ago. Love it - it is much better than the DeWalt I had several years ago. Suggest you watch this video on blade tensioning -

I thought I would post this group of cuts so you did not need to read the same thing over and over. These are all patterns converted from ZM Creations Illustrations. All of these portraits were completed in a similar way with a smaller sized 5/32” thick solid core plywood cut panel affixed to a larger 1/4” thick BB plywood backer. Each backer was sealed, then coated with the white Krylon Spray Gesso (Acrylic Paint primer) and the 1” borders were painted in various rattle can Krylon Fusion All-In-One Matt colors. The areas under the open cut areas were colored with Acrylic Art Paints, using the original illustrations as a guide. As usual, each panel was protected with multiple coats of clear gloss spray Lacquer. Each cut, being quite simple, was completed in less than one 3-4 hour session. That was a one per day but painting and framing added many hours to each. Cuttings were completed with Pegas #1 MGT R and/or #2/0 spiral blades. Each panel was set loose in a simple 1 3/4” wide Poplar frame that I applied a coat of pre-stain conditioner followed by a coat of Minwax Brazilian Gel Stain and protected with coat of Spray satin Polyurethane. Peacock: 9” x 10 ¼” Maple Toucan: 9”X12” Maple Birds3: 9” x 10 3/4” Maple Birds4: 11 1/2” x 9” Birch Bird5: 9” x 9” Birch Bird6: 6” x 11 3/4” Maple The following .zipx file contains all of these patterns including the Simple Eagle. Birds - ZM Creations.zipx Hope you enjoy!

My heart just sank. I was doing some maintenance on the website and I thought I was removing a test area. Instead, I ended up deleting the whole school. The whole thing is gone. And to make it worse, I just sent out a newsletter promoting the classes, too. I feel sick. I have the class content still, but I have to rebuild the whole University from scratch. Those that were enrolled will have to re-enroll again if they want to check it out. All of the comments are gone forever, though. I think I'm going to go on a walk, then I'll get back to rebuilding it. I'm really sorry you guys. Never turn your back on technology.

Thank you

With quick Clamp or normal clamp? Thanks

wow a specialty gadget. Just think you could put a straight branch in it. Have the live bark still on the outer edge. Then you can watch the branch spiral to the ground. Maybe they can try a baseball bat? Why did the they need spiral cut?

Do you use quickClamp or normal clamp?

Usually that is true but I watched you tube about inkscape. and no way could I understand it.

6.67258 cm on my 18" Hegner

Hi, I have another question for the Hegner owners. What is the distance between the top plate and the clamp, with blade on tension and the top arm in down position. On the specifications is 6,5Cm. On my Hegner multicut se does not arrive to 6cm