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This was fun to cut. I must be the slowest scroller in the world. I spent 15 hours and 36 minutes on the saw. Probably another 5 hours changing blade from hole to hole and drilling 786 holes. The image is 10-1/2 X 8. Used 27 2/0 Super Pike blades and cut 3mm Pre-finished BB.

I like making crosses, usually with geometric ornaments, but this time I made a little scene - Cross with shroud and Bible Video of making Cross and Bible Cross and Bible pattern

I was born and raised in the city. Never got to be exposed to country life. I found this particular set of videos on Youtube and I have been watching them for about a week now. I'm captivated by what this young guy does with his saw mill. He does build some interesting things too. Anyway, there are so many videos to watch, I can't pick a particular link to suggest here but if you go to Youtube and search for "Fall Line Ridge Videos" you'll find them. Prepare to be entertained. At least I am. I'm watching this one right now.

Recently I cut some thin aluminum (I cut a Kokopelli) and found it real easy to work with but I wanted something thicker, so I went to our local store and got a piece of steel about 2.5mm thick. I found trying to cut it to the size I wanted a bit hard going because it would not glide. Eventually got it cut with my husbands help and attached it to a scrap piece of ply for a backer to help it glide and using a No. 9 Metal Cutting Jewelers blade I set to work. I broke 2 blades before I had the first hole cut. Boy was it slow going. I doubt if I will ever finish it but at least now I know that is can be done if the pattern, firstly does not have a lot of small cuts and secondly you are not in a hurry. Marg

Great looking cut! Slowest? Nah, @15 hours to cut that would have taken me 15 weeks! LOL

It is not a race so it does not matter how long it takes, it"s what it looks like when it's finished and this is awesome. Definitely time well spent. Marg

I spent most of my life farming in NE Iowa. Dad had a sawmill as a 2nd occupation. It uses a 48" diameter circular blade. Long before this type of band saws were used. Belt driven by a John Deere 820 tractor. People would bring logs & we sawed them & charged according to what the log "squared at" & the length. Piled the slabs on a row. let them dry a year & start another row. Cut from the year old row & sold as firewood. The blade had round "tooth holders". First the disposable teeth were sharpened with a hand file, later with an electrical grinder, the forerunner of the Dremel. The worst logs were cut from in peoples yards. We hit nails, hammock holders, horseshoes, rifle shells, etc. The bigger things ruined every tooth. Working around a mill was darn hard work. Dad enjoyed it & I think that a big reason for doing it, was to keep my brother & I tired & our eyes burning from sawdust. At the end of the day, we had NO DEISIRE to go out raising heck or courting the Ladies at night. Dad split the income 3 ways, between himself & my brother. That was our spending money.

Wow, great job. You must have loved that last cut.

Good looking, worth your effort!

There is no hole under the cam leaver pivot , and of course no set screw. But for the milling cuts, no holes in the under side of the upper arm at all. There's the oil hole above the pivot, but no screw there either. Jim

You have much more patience then I do. Great Job.

I've now made a second lantern. This time, I incorporated Joe W's suggestion of using tabs and slots in order to hold the top on. The double sided arrow points to a slot in the bottom and to a tab in the top. There are two tabs and two slots. When making this, I increased Steve's original pattern by 5% in order to give my room to conformably fit in the circle opening. The Tab mechanism seems to be more secure than the Magnet mechanism that I employed with the first lantern.

According to my wife, I drag all of my sawdust upstairs.

Finished this on Monday. Jeff Zaffino pattern, double stack 1/8 inch BB ply. Cut with #1 Niqua spiral 16 X 20. 1302 cuts with 772 just in the grass. Well worth the effort. Jeff

found this pattern and wanted to give it a try. So I purchased it and did the thick on (4 layers) in 1/4 inch baltic birch while the top layer is a wood that I do not know the name of and had it in my wood rack. I found that using 1/4 inch wood made it so the other colors of the different layers did not show very well, so I cut another one in 1/8 inch BB Ply and just stained the top layer. I put four coats of semi gloss finish on both of them. I did decide the thinner wood brought our the detail and other colors more to my liking. Theses will be gifts to some friends of our that also has a granddaughter who's name happens to be Grace. Dick heppnerguy

I needed to see if I could cut anything other than a puzzle or a wall hanger, so I stack cut one of my favorite Steve Good patterns... They're not finished or framed yet and I'll update once I get them done 1/8 BB x 4, with a very, very dull and bent Pegas #3 MFG blade LOL (another test). I had 4 frames in the shop, from where I have no idea so figured I would use them instead of making 4 new ones which I prefer to do but time is no longer on my side Frame is top right obviously Thanks as always in advance, I'll update the thread once I get them stained, poly'd and framed I'm going to offer them as Outward bound and the other as returning but can be purchased separately. Thanks as always in advance for reading

The blade clamps are different from the Ultra to the new BM series but the BM series shares the same clamp as the G4 Hawks.. They are pretty close to the same but they rounded off the corners on the G4 / BM series.. This is the Ultra lower blade holder: http://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/lower-ultra-blade-holders/ And this is the G4 / BM series.. note the rounded corners. http://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/g4-blade-holders/ I think the G4 / BM series is also slightly wider.. The Ultra ones fit in the BM as I've tried that.. but the BM ones don't fit into the Ultra. Also note that the early Ultra blade clamps pin that goes through are not a solid steel pin and they can and do get bent sometimes.. They no longer make them with the hollow ( roll pin ) because of the failure of them bending.

Kevin: I see what you're talking about. My "nose" piece doesn't have the hole and set screw. There's just nothing there but bare aluminum. I'm not having a problem with the tension lever, so no need to replace the "nose" assembly now, unless the new "nose" provides some other benefit. Is the BM blade clamp different from the Ultra? (look pretty much the same to me) Thanks to you and Ray for your words of wisdom. Jim

Here is some pictures. This photo is the upgrade kit on my old 220VS Another view of the update kit on the 220VS View of the underside of the upgrade kit on the 220VS and the set screw This is a shot of my 226VS Ultra View of the oil hole on the 226 Ultra. This hole allows you to get oil onto the cam and set screw.. The old 220VS doesn't have this hole. I used grease on it during assembly to prolong the life of the cam & set screw.. even so.. Once the upgrade kit is installed it's just removing the set screw and pulling the lever out.. change the cam and put it back together.. The original style I would have to press that roll pin out and change the whole assembly.. This is where I get resistance.. the lever won't actually go freely down to the arm This is a shot of the set screw on the underside of the arm on the 226 Ultra.. Here is a video of me locking and unlocking tension on the 226 Ultra. There is no blade in the saw... This is how it should "lock" the tension correctly.

I'll try to explain this: The end of the longer piece (number 5 ) circled and marked with a number 1 is the set screw. Number 2 is the tension cam.. just a round piece of steel with a hole off centered and a set screw to clamp it to the handle ( number 3). That cam sets in the spot where number 1 is on the longer piece. As the cam wears it only wears out the cam and the set screw.. The old style has no set screw and actually wears the end of that long piece (number 5) out and then you have to change the whole thing. The update allows you to just change the cam and set screw. Then you don't risk damaging the saw arm trying to press that roll pin ( number 4 ) out to change the whole assembly.. as they can be a bugger to press out if they've been in there for years.. The set screw I'm taking about should be placed on the under side of the arm piece at the end where it pivots and should be pretty close to directly under where the cam lever ( number 3 ) goes through the arm. It's really small and hard to see as it's usually recessed in the small hole.. Being under side of the arm and such a small hole.. it's kind of hard to see.

The updated kit has the hole on the bottom of it.. the set screw is on that longer piece in the kit. It's not actually on the saw arm.. it's on that nose / end piece that pivots up inside the arm.. I'll see if I can get a photo of mine after a while.

Looks great, nice job. I'm particularly drawn to patterns for those kinds of rustic scenes. Someday soon, I hope to have more time to devote to cutting them.

You really did a beautiful job on that piece... one of those pictures you can sit back, look at it, and wish you were there... Great job.... I may have to look up that pattern...

Kevin: I looked at the kit. I don't understand how you can get to the adjustment screw without an access hole. My saw has the oil hole on the top of the arm, but no set screw that I can see. Did you have to drill an access hole on your 1993 220vs? Mine isn't worn to the point of malfunctioning. The lever has to be lifted to vertical before it will move on it's own. Jim

fantastic job, it's beautiful

Great job! A very tranquil scene.

Thanks for that Ray.

I'm a city boy as well - fascinating! I'll never do it, but I do find milling fascinating and love waiting for the surprise grains that come from the center

I haven't thought of cutting metal yet, but thanks for the heads up - I didn't know there were special jeweler blades either. As an FYI - not sure how but that sheet was and how small you needed to get it, but for cutting metal I have this saw: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-55-amp-cut-off-saw-61204.html - I make my own pipe clamps with it and it can cut small sheets as well But, if you're not going to cut this again doesn't really matter LOL

Beautifully cut. What a wonderful scene. Well done.

Thank you for letting us know your results.

That project made a long hard day.

Most of mine just improves the dirt floor of my shop. A lot of it goes up my nose, the rest I track in my house.

Nice! How many times did you blink while cutting it? LoL

I bet you have the set screw.. I'm pretty sure the pre ultra saws had them.. I could be wrong though.. The set screw is really small and hard to see. It is also recessed into the arm a little and you need a very small allen wrench to turn it. I'll try to remember to take some photos of it tomorrow and of how the tension lever is to be adjusted etc. If you don't have the set screw you're probably getting close to needing a new tension cam then.. I had to replace the one on my 1993 old hawk with the round barrel style lower clamp.. I upgraded to the new style so I can replace just the cam rather than changing the whole assembly. The upgrade cost like $50 but well worth it and it has the set screw adjuster too. Yes my ultra has the same 4 spacer looking bearings. If you take the arm off you'll see that one side of the bearing is open and you can see the ball bearings inside it. I'm not certain I should have greased mine but that is what I did.. plus I also do put a drop or two of oil on those areas about every 25 hours run time.. The bearings in the pitman arm are sealed bearings and do not require grease.. only throw them out and get new ones when they go bad.. In the past I used to carefully pry out the oil seal and you can pump a little grease in them with a needle grease fitting on a grease gun.. I don't recommend this if you've never done it unless the bearing is going bad and you're just trying to prolong some more live from it. Those bearings are only around $5-6 anyway.

I have done some intricate patterns,, but not sure any of that many holes... I do not count... takes away from my scrolling time... Again,,, great job Jeff.

Kevin: Got the wedge, and the front cam, but I don't have the adjustment hole and screw. under the small black lever Looks like the earlier Ultra models didn't have the cam adjustment mechanism, and there's no tension on the lever when you close it without a blade. The only bearing I can actually see is the pitman arm? (the arm that connects the motor to the lower saw arm) bearing. The face of it appears covered with some sort of membrane to keep lube in, or foreign material out. The wedge is nice and sharp on the blade tension mechanism. The arm bearings (I assume there's one on each side of both saw saw arms, 4 total) are covered with a metal shell and could pass as spacers if you didn't know there were bearings there. Is that how your Ultra looks? Thanks for your thoughts. Jim

That is sure crazy Jeff. How many holes? Great job!

That’s Amazing. Thanks for sharing

A lot of work - Well done

That is a great job of cutting. Your dedication is commendable. It came out beautiful.

I have to agree!

I first started on the magazine site back in 2004-5.. before that was the MSN groups and Yahoo clubs. My favorite was the MSN groups back in the day.. Then they shut the groups down so I was a more regular on the Magazine site for a few years.. Then run across the free4allscrollsawpatterns site and was active there until they closed down. With all the movement and shutting down of clubs / groups etc.. we've lost a lot of awesome designers.. also some of them stopped designing because of theft or folks not giving credit to the designers. I remember a day when you could post a photo and ask for a pattern.. within a few hours you would have 4-5 patterns to choose from.. Sure miss those days.. They also did pattern challenges where they'd post a photo and the designers would do patterns and then there'd be a vote on the patterns.. The group was fairly large and most times every pattern was cut eventually..

It's easy to take things like this for granted. I like this quote from To Kill A Mockingbird. "Until I feared I would lose it, I never loved to read. One does not love breathing." The hobby is so much more enjoyable with a community of fellow addicts to share it with. So I'm thankful to Travis and thankful to be a part of this great bunch!

This post made me go look when I became a member, March 2009. Yikes, I have been around a while. I don't always post but I do stop by nearly every day to check in.

I was a member of SSV quite a few years ago then i got really sick. Allmost didn't make it. Heart problems with quad bypass took a toll on me. COPD doesn't help either. It took me quite a while to recuperate and I didn't participat on here or anywhere for a few years. In fact, I lost my ID and password and just decided to re-sign up as a newbie. I really enjoy my time here. Lots of really nice friendly people. I don't do facebook, instagram, or any other social networks. I did sign up to 2 other woodworking forums, but i really never go there. I do hang around here almost daily. Even after all these years (over 50) of woodworking and scrolling I seem to learn something new here every once in a while at SSV. Thanks everyone and Travis for providing this forum.

I love the things that are made for the little ones. They really know how to show you their appreciation.

Some I put in my burn barrel, some I keep on hand, to make wood putty.

Mine goes to the field.

I'm sure Covid has a lot to do with it for several reasons. One being the mills were closed for a while. Another being people didn't go to work and needed something to do at home,, lots of renovations, tree houses, fences, etc. were taking place using up what was available. I also read somewhere, not sure how true it was.. about 17 years ago a beetle devastated millions of trees in Canada and the affects are being felt now. I throw my sawdust over my fence,, I'll ask my neighbor what he does with it next time I see him!