Leaderboard

Kevin: I did misunderstand. Went and bought myself a 1/8" roll pin punch so I'd be ready when I needed to knock out pins LOL. Thanks for the info. Jim PS if I ever decide the change out the nose assembly, I'll have the right tool.

The Super Pike blades are really a metal cutting blade. The 2/0 has 42 teeth per inch. I cut three milliammeter pre-finished BB without using a back up board underneath. That bottom piece would just be a waste. The blades allow me to cut very fine detail. I can also run the saw a little faster. For fretwork they are my go to blade. Blades are the cheapest part of the hobby.

Current Issue of Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts Thought I'd let everyone know that the new issue of "Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts" is now (or will be soon) available on the newsstand. Lots of nice projects in it and they have also included one of mine on making wizard wands on the scroll saw, using the compound cutting technique. I came up with the idea after working on compound cut of different varieties, and was wondering if I could cut something nice and long. What better than a Wizard's Wand (can also be used as a pointer or conductor's baton). Well you can check out the article in the Fall issue #80 if you like. I'm also offering a special eBook of 16 wand patterns, in case you get the wand cutting bug. It is available for $3.50 in my Etsy store. https://www.etsy.com/listing/822012980/magic-wand-compound-cut-scroll-saw?ref=shop_home_active_1

I spent most of my life farming in NE Iowa. Dad had a sawmill as a 2nd occupation. It uses a 48" diameter circular blade. Long before this type of band saws were used. Belt driven by a John Deere 820 tractor. People would bring logs & we sawed them & charged according to what the log "squared at" & the length. Piled the slabs on a row. let them dry a year & start another row. Cut from the year old row & sold as firewood. The blade had round "tooth holders". First the disposable teeth were sharpened with a hand file, later with an electrical grinder, the forerunner of the Dremel. The worst logs were cut from in peoples yards. We hit nails, hammock holders, horseshoes, rifle shells, etc. The bigger things ruined every tooth. Working around a mill was darn hard work. Dad enjoyed it & I think that a big reason for doing it, was to keep my brother & I tired & our eyes burning from sawdust. At the end of the day, we had NO DEISIRE to go out raising heck or courting the Ladies at night. Dad split the income 3 ways, between himself & my brother. That was our spending money.

This was fun to cut. I must be the slowest scroller in the world. I spent 15 hours and 36 minutes on the saw. Probably another 5 hours changing blade from hole to hole and drilling 786 holes. The image is 10-1/2 X 8. Used 27 2/0 Super Pike blades and cut 3mm Pre-finished BB.

I was born and raised in the city. Never got to be exposed to country life. I found this particular set of videos on Youtube and I have been watching them for about a week now. I'm captivated by what this young guy does with his saw mill. He does build some interesting things too. Anyway, there are so many videos to watch, I can't pick a particular link to suggest here but if you go to Youtube and search for "Fall Line Ridge Videos" you'll find them. Prepare to be entertained. At least I am. I'm watching this one right now.

I like making crosses, usually with geometric ornaments, but this time I made a little scene - Cross with shroud and Bible Video of making Cross and Bible Cross and Bible pattern

Yes I did make the post caps....

That brought back some memories from my youth, When we lived here in Tenn, back in the 70s I worked the sawmill in Crump Tn, I got to be fairly good with those log hooks. But I soon got a job on the Ohio River on a Barge Line.

Well that's what this old yankee calls it. It is filler, sometimes I can't get the exact color of the wood so I use the sawdust of the wood I just cut. Most of the time it works pretty darn well.

I don't think you understood what I was referring to with the roll pin, or else I'm mis-understanding your question. I was talking about the roll pin in the blade holder / clamp in the picture below.. They started with a roll pin but found the pin can bend when too much tension is applied or just being tensioned a lot over the years.. This is now made with a solid steel pin. I think you was referring to the pin that holds the nose assembly on? There should be a little play in that as you don't want it binding etc. and I believe this is still a roll pin on the new saw.. I'd have to look at mine to be sure of that though..

The Woodmizer style of saw would have a place in the world, but you would use bad words if & when you hit metal imbedded in the log and found out the cost of a replacement blade.

Could you glue a cheap bubble level to the end of your drill and have it set for 45 degrees?

When I drill very small holes and need them to start in a certain spot, I just use a good size pin or my little ice pick to make a start hole. And if you have to use a second chuck to hold your small bits.... get a good one,, don't go real cheap... I have yet to find one that didn't wobble. One of the things I like most about my Jet drill press,,, the chuck closes all the way... It will hold the tiny bits.

The video was excellent , right from falling the tree to the mill process. my brother had a band saw mill this brought back precious memories

The drill guide that you originally posted will not do what you need, nor will the 2 or 3 others on the market of similar design. A small drill press with a special smaller drill chuck in the larger chuck will hold the very small sizes of drill bits. Tilting the drill press table to the desired angle and building a wooden stop to hold your work piece in the needed position on the drill press table will be needed. Then you will have the difficulty of keeping the small drill bit from walking off position as you attempt to start it into the work. Only very slow feeding and care will get your drilled hole in the correct place without the drill bit walking, unless you buy a very small center drill to use first to make a starting hole for the drill bit to give the drill bit an accurate location to begin drilling the desired hole, will completely avoid the drill bit walking problem. It's easy to drill a hole at 90 deg to your work surface, but considerably more difficult to drill a hole when the work piece must be drilled at an angle. Centering drill bits can be purchased in many sizes and lengths from industrial suppliers like Grainger, Johnstone Supply, McMaster Supply, W. T. Tool, Etc. They will have the smaller drill chucks to adapt your drill press chuck to the smaller drill bits too. Charley

Interesting for sure Vern. That saw mill is might efficient. I just remember the huge circular blades and powered with the power take off on a John Deere. Loved all those things as well as threshing machines and steam tractors.

I can only scroll for four hours max. I take short breaks to rest my eyes. That means it takes me several days. The Super Pike blades also break easily and I have the same problem of bending the blades and kinking them.

Love it. Nice job! Looks great in that frame.

Thanks for sharing that Ray brought back memories like Jerry's. Farm in upstate NY. There was a farmer who also run a mill like jerry said but used a Farmal tractor for the blade belt. Used to go down there and watch a little but was more interested in watching. No interest in helping after seeing the farmer lost his arm in the belt when he was sawing at the elbow. Did not. slow him down doing anything. This new will would make it easier for sure

I only counted 784 holes.

Wood putty? Like the fillers you can buy? I've never heard of wood putty.

Recently I cut some thin aluminum (I cut a Kokopelli) and found it real easy to work with but I wanted something thicker, so I went to our local store and got a piece of steel about 2.5mm thick. I found trying to cut it to the size I wanted a bit hard going because it would not glide. Eventually got it cut with my husbands help and attached it to a scrap piece of ply for a backer to help it glide and using a No. 9 Metal Cutting Jewelers blade I set to work. I broke 2 blades before I had the first hole cut. Boy was it slow going. I doubt if I will ever finish it but at least now I know that is can be done if the pattern, firstly does not have a lot of small cuts and secondly you are not in a hurry. Marg

I haven't thought of cutting metal yet, but thanks for the heads up - I didn't know there were special jeweler blades either. As an FYI - not sure how but that sheet was and how small you needed to get it, but for cutting metal I have this saw: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-55-amp-cut-off-saw-61204.html - I make my own pipe clamps with it and it can cut small sheets as well But, if you're not going to cut this again doesn't really matter LOL

Great looking cut! Slowest? Nah, @15 hours to cut that would have taken me 15 weeks! LOL

It is not a race so it does not matter how long it takes, it"s what it looks like when it's finished and this is awesome. Definitely time well spent. Marg

You got that right, I've worked the crap out of that new Hawk I bought a few years ago.. Actually serviced it today with it's few drops of oil in the recommended spots and that is why I was running the Excalibur today.. I like the oil to set on the saw for a few hours before running it, otherwise it flings oil all over the place, LOL so I let it set for a few hours and then wipe off any excess oil before running it. Waxed the table etc.. good to go for another 25 hours or so before needing oiled again.. no signs of any wear on that saw yet.

I first started on the magazine site back in 2004-5.. before that was the MSN groups and Yahoo clubs. My favorite was the MSN groups back in the day.. Then they shut the groups down so I was a more regular on the Magazine site for a few years.. Then run across the free4allscrollsawpatterns site and was active there until they closed down. With all the movement and shutting down of clubs / groups etc.. we've lost a lot of awesome designers.. also some of them stopped designing because of theft or folks not giving credit to the designers. I remember a day when you could post a photo and ask for a pattern.. within a few hours you would have 4-5 patterns to choose from.. Sure miss those days.. They also did pattern challenges where they'd post a photo and the designers would do patterns and then there'd be a vote on the patterns.. The group was fairly large and most times every pattern was cut eventually..

I have been a member over the magazine board for a long time and endured the software issues and that was when I discovered SSV. I am active on both boards and there is some crossover between the two. On the magazine board, it is a much smaller crowd these days, but there is still a good number of "guests" shown. Don't have anyway to tell if they are scrollers or search engine spiders. Probably the same with the "guests" showing up here. I've made friends on this forum, just like the other one. I am also registered at Steve Good's forum, but totally inactive. I come for ideas, to see what others are doing, the jokes, and plenty of back and forth. Just checked, I joined February 2016.

Nice looking sign!

Love the sign...top notch cutting and assembly. But....I hate clif hangers. Need background story. Who is the sign for? Customer? You? More info please....

No changes have been made. It sounds like your browser on your phone isn't accepting cookies to track your online session. That's why you're getting the ads and that error page. It forgets that you're logged in. You can try seeing if your phone needs updating. Maybe check cookie or privacy settings. Maybe another program like AdBlocker is causing issues.

terrific job

I love these signs that you are making. Well done.

Down Right Awesome job!!!

Clean and crisp. Excellent work. Marg

Well I'm impressed. You've done a great job!

Very nice work Dan, the letters look especially sharp. What wood did you use? Cottonwood perchance? (I looked it up in the Wood Database and it does not sound like a good wood for scrolling.)

Nice work Dan.

Nicely done - did you make the caps as well?

HI all, After being on this board for a long time I decided to become a silver patron, 20 dollars is nothing for the weath of information, and fun I have had being on this village site. Thanks to all of you here for being here for help, support, ideas and fun Bill New Richmond, Wisconsin

My dad set up a Belsaw mill on our property in 1952 and it was powered by a Buick straight eight engine. I was only 8 years old at the time. My two older brothers and I worked in the logging operation. At first I was an official brush dragger,not to technical a job. We had a Doodle Bug made from a 1937 Chevy 2 ton truck that was used to skid the logs out of the woods to a landing where they were loaded on the 1949 Studebaker log truck by a set of skid poles and a hand operated wench. Almost all the work was hard manual labor. In 1956 my dad paid to have 480 volt 3 phase power run in to the Mill. The sawmill was converted to run with a 40hp electric motor. Man was that an improvement. We were all happy we didn't have to listen to that Buick motor anymore. Several machines were added too because of the electric power, a gang saw, cutoff saw, an edger, a planer etc. It was also the year I was promoted to a sawmill hand. My pay was 25 cents an hour. By my senior year of high school I had worked all the way up to $1.50 an hour. I had to work afternoons when I got home from school, most Saturdays, and of course summers. I never did forgive my dad for my life growing up mainly because I believe my brothers and I missed allot that most kids of our generation got to enjoy.

The bearing can easily be changed.. The issue is you cannot buy the oddball sized sleeve insert. I have a press and have pressed the bearings out / in when taking the saw apart a couple years ago to do a clean-up / grease job. I found a worn bearing ( same one ) and sleeve back then.. and I tried sourcing bearings which I was able to find.. but the sleeve insert is oddball sized.. So I just cleaned / greased it and ran it until it broke. LOL.. Then bought everything new except the electronics and replaced it all last fall. Yeah I have a neighbor / good friend who is a supervisor for a local machine shop.. I can get him to make the sleeve.. I just honestly don't have much respect for the saw at this point. I picked it up in late Nov. 2017.. didn't set it up Feb. 2018. I've had this saw apart 3 times in this amount of time.. Not sure if I got a bad lemon and then another bad lemon in replacement parts or these saws are just not make to work very long, LOL.. The complete rebuild last fall cost me over $300 in parts.. Not doing that again for a 6-8 months use.. LOL.. I do throw a lot of work at these saws though so maybe that's just the life expectancy of them.. I honestly don't NEED the saw anyway.. I do like using it though.. I do have 3 Hawks that hardly ever give me any trouble. I may order a Pegas as they supposedly upgraded this particular bearing to a heavier duty larger one. I'll keep this saw around for some parts.. or strip the good parts and send it to the scrap pile..

Mine does have a roll pin holding the blade clamp in place. It also has some play while being fully clamped. With the blade removed, the arm "nose" can move .025" up and with the front clamp in the fully closed position, Will that cause a problem? Jim