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I cut this as a surprise gift and he was thrilled to bits with it. The pattern is by Gayle from over at Scrollers Cafe. Cut from 2.5mm Bamboo as always and framed in a store bought frame. Marg

The man who once killed two stones with one bird, the reason Waldo is hiding, the man who sleeps with a pillow under his gun, the man whose cowboy boots are made from real cowboys. Chuck Norris Cut in wormy live edge oak. The worms and the edge are now dead.

I cut this Harvey Byler puzzle recently out of poplar using #1&3 pegas blades. The puzzle is rather simple and a quick cut but the person that requested it and the recipient are both very amazing people. We have had the great pleasure of “adopting” 3 young ladies who were Clemson University students several years ago through a program at our church, to give them a home away from home as they attended college. One of the young ladies, Abbey, is now a NICU nurse at Vanderbilt University Hospital in Nashville dedicating her life to helping save babies and young children who have had a difficult start in life. During a recent visit home she requested this puzzle for a baby boy who was born prematurely at 23 weeks. Jacob has spent the first 8 months of his life at the hospital and Abbey was assigned his case. Jacob’s father is a huge tractor fan and decorated his home nursery with all kinds of tractor paraphernalia. This puzzle is a gift to Jacob to celebrate his discharge from the hospital. We wish many blessings on Jacob and Abbey in addition to all the healthcare workers who give their time and passion to serve those in need in hospitals across this great nation.

Mike Williams designed the pattern for this beaver. He calls it 'Working Man' but I call it 'Nature's Lumberjack'. I completed cutting it last week. It took me about 11 hours and the work has about 610 holes. The material is 6mm thick panel with a thin quarter sawn White Oak veneer on top. I’m planning to take 'Nature's Lumberjack' it to Pellow's Island and to frame it with poplar “logs” much like the mock-up that utilizes Spruce below: I may or may not decide to frame it with a green backer-board. By the way, I’m going to use Poplar because, over the last 15 years, beavers have “chopped” down all the large poplar trees on Pellow’s Island.

So I tried a 3d cut this morning... My first. I've been thinking of making a themed Chess Set. I don't play very well (actually, I don't play at all), but I love themed chess sets LOL Anyway, I used a Pegas #5 mfg brand spanking new blade. The dimensions of the piece ended up at 3 3/8" H x 1 1/4" W Here are the pics and then the lessons I learned - feel free to add your lessons as I may do this again with more scraps It's been dipped in polyurethane and is drying - this is the 2nd dip I don't think it came out to terrible, and I learned a few things which is always good. So for others who have not done this type of cut, but may be considering it here is what I learned... 1. Wood species - very important. I used poplar since that is what I use mostly at the moment. I can see this being a real problem with a very hard wood or a very soft wood. 2. The blank - I used a piece of poplar I had left over. It wasn't exactly cut to size (1 3/4" x 13/16"), but this was a test so I used it. This was the biggest problem I had... The problem was it wasn't a square piece, but was rectangular. This caused a problem when cutting the tall side as it barely fit below the arm of my saw and I couldn't get a good hold of it to guide it through the cut, the arm kept banging the heck out of my fingers. Even with a jig (which was also not set up correctly) I had a very difficult time holding the piece to cut. I think if/when I do another I'll cut the wood more square and thinner and I have to fix my jig to lock the piece in place. 3. Gluing - I used a glue stick and glued right to the wood. Since I had read the outside was going to be throw away any way, it seemed like the easiest option. It was easy, and the correct selection for me. Oh, and I hate to throw things away so I saved the pieces that are throw away. I can use them for framed scenic units when I make them and glue them to the backing 4. Drilling - I used a 1/8 drill bit and probably should have a little smaller for the starting holes. Problem was the rectangular side also posed a problem with the bit size. 5. Blade - There were 2 sides to cut on this pattern, and one side (the deepest cut side) as mentioned in #2 above was a real bear to hold onto and guide. However, the selection of the #5 was spot on, if I used a harder wood I would most likely use a #7 blade instead. 6. Cutting - The cutting of the flat side, was fairly smooth. But again see #2, not so easy. And the tall side took a lot longer than the flat side - makes sense cutting through more wood 7. Taping - Once I had finished cutting the flat side, I had to tape the cut piece in place with clear packing tape. I should have taped the whole thing BEFORE starting the cut. Well there it is. Another type of cut under my belt! Thanks as always in advance for reading

After several months of trying to find it anywhere at anything approaching a reasonable price, suddenly it is available at both my local HD and Amazon. The ship must have come in.

Finished this Steve Good project, done on 1/4" BB and painted backer Sky blue.

A few weeks ago I asked the scroll saw community to make something for Memorial Day to either donate or sell and contribute the proceeds to any veteran organization of your choosing. Here is mine. If anyone can't figure out what this portrait depicts, it is the backside view of the Three Soldiers sculpture which is located at the Viet Nam Memorial in Washington D.C. I have also include a few of my patterns here if anyone would like to cut something as a tribute to those who served. I will be donating this portrait to The Highground, a Veteran's Memorial site in Neillsville Wisconsin. https://www.thehighground.us/

Do yourself a favor & switch to 3M-45. I quit sawing, but the 77 seemed to change their formula & it wanted to spray a few blotches. The 45 didn't do that.

There in fact may be better drill bits out there., I really don't know. But, I don't scroll cut or drill thousands holes for a living. Mikes drill bits work perfectly fine for me with what little use they get from me. I never experienced dull bits. Maybe you got a bad batch. Most everything that i drill now I use a 1/16" drill bit. Somestimes smaller. I rarelty do tiny hole fretwork. No patience

Pretty sure Denny sells the Mascott also... I found these to be the best brand I have tried.... Got mine from DnD before Denny started selling. DnD is a great place to order from as well as Denny's.

I use a 1/16 most of the time in some cases I need a smaller drill, I dond't remember the # but they are .043 decimal . I have a 10' porter cable drill and the chuck goes down to hold a 1/32 drill. IKE

I used to use the bits that Mikes sold. Not sure what brand they are but they start out dull and get duller quick compared to the bits that I bought from DnDsawblades.com. I haven’t needed to buy bits for a long time since buying these bits. Not sure what Denny sells. I think the brand from DND was Mascott

Not really sure what you were reading Les. But this is on their web site. "Industrial-quality, high-speed precision drill bits. For your scroll saw needs—larger bits for normal cutouts, smaller bits for "hidden holes," veining, and intricate cutting. Each packet contains 10 bits." It's $7.25 for a packet of 10 drill bits, plus free shipping. I have bought Flying Dutchman scroll saw blades and drill bits many times through the years from Mikes and have never been disappointed. Ben

Mikes Workshop - Flying Dutchman drill bits Free Shipping https://mikesworkshop.com/collections/accessories/products/1-16 I use the largest bit that will work.

Word has it that, tragically, Chuck Norris passed away seventeen years ago. Death has been too afraid to tell him.

My go to drill bit is #68 but I have others going to #80. The Dremel chuck can be chucked up in your larger chuck. I do that all the time and it is accurate. Another route is a #0 Albrecht chuck for only about $500. It holds from 0 to 1/6. Another less pricy is a group of two Jacobs chucks with an R8 arbor. They are 0 to 1/16" and 5/64 to 1/2 and only$179 plus $9.75 shipping. I own multiple chucks but for me the Dremel chuck is the answer. Just kidding about Albrecht and Jacob's chucks. Way beyond my means. The picture of one of my 0-1/8" Jacobs chucks. It's a cute little bugger. Still use the Dremel though.

Ray, I thought where you live is vacation, plenty of sun, RJ

I find 3D cutting fascinating... It is always a surprise to me what comes out when you remove the outer wood... I love the mini bird houses,,, so does my daughter, she steals every one I make and my favorite is the 3D nut crackers I have cut... she stoled that also... but she use to dance in the local Nut Cracker productions when she was a little ballerina many years ago... Like you,,, I have patterns to make a chess set... hope to get to it this year.. Show progress on yours,,, it will keep me interested in completing one.. I will be a thanking you...

Check out https://www.artcraftersonline.com/ Danny is a member here and is good to the membership. Just in case you arent aware most regular drill chucks will not grip the bits smaller than 1/6". You will need a difernt chuck. I have found the availble chucks that is 3 parts don't work very well. I use a dremel 4 part chuck in a dremel tool to drill my small holes. It grips the drill bit nice and straight.

Thought I would make another bowl and something fun and easy.

I sent an email to Mikes and asked where the drill bits were made? They emailed me back and tolld me the same company that makes the Flying Dutchman blades in Germany.

Nothing at Lowe's but my ACE hardware has it for $12 and change.

I'm going to download and add these great patterns to my to do list. However, I'm swamped with projects at the moment and Memorial Day is comming fast. So, for now, I will just plan to join you and make a donation to The Highground, a Veteran's Memorial. Thandk you, certainly seems like a good thing to do.

I just emptied the bag into the yard recycle bin. our land fill has a mulch pile

Great job. Thanks for sharing.

very nice job

I just purchesed a 4X8 underlamement from HD about 3 weeks ago and the regular proice dthen was $21 but it had a damaged area in lthe center so I got a 50% discount. I don't know what it is now. I will have to check today when I go to paxton wood I go right past it. IKE

I gotta admit that I’d love the weather out there but I can’t deal with the crowded part. Our city that I travel to isn’t but a small town and the older I get the more I do to try to stay away from town. I can’t imagine myself living in a city. On a positive side though. When working on a project and need a part or forget a part, going back to the store would be quick. Now I have at least a 30 min. Drive to get to any parts or hardware store. When I was in my early 20’s I lived in town for 3 months, and that was the only good part about it. I could walk to the auto parts and hardware store faster than driving to town from the country. Lol. Guess being in the country is part of my dna.

You did an Awesome job Mr, Norris has been a favorite of mine.

I checked their price at $7.50 EACH! WOW, if that isn't highway robbery it's extortion! I just hope I've read it incorrectly for which I would apologize.

Terry my hubby would fight you for this one. One of his favorite actors. Great work as always Charlie. Marg

HF has a set of wire size drill bits #63674 sizes 1 through 60 (60 being the smallest). I keep my set around so I know which is which. If you can, get cobalt alloy bits, they are pricey, but they are stiffer than anything else (less sideways flex) and have a high heat resistance.

You might know this but "most" blade distributers post the smallest drill bit that can be uses for said blades.. I use Pegas MG #3 most of the time and sometimes use a #5.. so I keep number 60 drill bits for the #3 blade and a 56 for the number 5.. A FD-UR #5 fits the number 60 hole as well..

From my experience and what I've seen from other members both here and elsewhere.. the main issue inside the back part is usually that larger bearing in that pivot rod.. That said though.. The whole saw has to come apart to get that out and inspect it good, so might as well clean / grease and replace what is needed. I hated to use that old sleeve on my new bearing but.. I figure as it sets the saw really doesn't owe me anything. I got my money out of it before the first tear down and regrease job. I knew then it wasn't going to last long as both bearings and sleeves was bad.. The worst was that big bearing.. sleeve was worn some but the bearing was toasted.. Since I had to pull it completely apart I did inspect the bearings / grease and all looked real good.. Just that darn 1/32" shorter sleeve ( may have been a little more than that much as I didn't have my glasses on and didn't use any calipers or anything.. Like to have but I was really just wanting to get it back together as my dinner was almost ready, LOL Eventually I'm going to order a Pegas ( I think ) or a used ( real ) Excalibur or Hegner if a deal pops up.

Paul I really like your nut crackers, where did you get the patterns, RJ

See my post above.

Not to hijack this thread, but does anyone know of good places to buy said size drill bit at decent prices? I'm thinking a dozen at a shot.

It looks Pretty Darn Impressive. I had tried it a few times. Didn't turn out to well.

I use 1/16th, I had tried smaller. but had a little trouble getting my blade thru.

I don't do it nearly as often as I use to, But I would use the real fine saw dust from my saw, and the wood glue, never measured it out, just put some om wax paper. Stirred it up until I got the thinness or thickness I wanted. Spread it on with my putty knife or finger, let dry and sanded.

That's great news Kevin. I'm glad that you can still get some use out of that saw. Even though it's not a "real" Excalibur, it's getting closer. I love both of mine and so far no problems. Once we get back from this extended vacation, I'm going to tear the 16 down and go all through it. I did all the front bearings and sleeves when I first brought it home but I want to get inside of it see what it all looks like.

Think of it this way. Front view on one side, profile on the other side. The top of the head and the bottom must be at the same level.

I know what you mean. We recently had 10 trees taken down from our property around out house (terrible drainage problem, but that is another story) and last Wednesday a friend and I got a rental log splitter for the day and made a huge pile of firewood in the front yard. I slept like a baby that night. Next day was spent imitating an old man with arthritis. Saturday and Sunday found me getting my steps in, moving the wood to the back yard and stacking it. I didn't have any trouble sleeping those nights either. Worked out to 3 cords of wood, 6 alieve tablets, and knowing I don't want to do that again.

That is a Steve Good pattern.

All looks not to bad, I wood be interested in seeing your jig please.....I have no trouble with my jigs.... This is very much the same as mine... https://www.stevedgood.com/catalog/index.php Just type jig and it's the first one on the page...

Thanks all - wish I read this thread before I cut this morning LOL But lots to learn and read

Scrap metal has zoomed in price. Sell it if you have any, that will pay for your lumber.

I like making crosses, usually with geometric ornaments, but this time I made a little scene - Cross with shroud and Bible Video of making Cross and Bible Cross and Bible pattern

Beautiful job Alex! I'm going to do this one. Probably get the C162 Cat also...too cute to pass up. Stay safe over there my friend.