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Did this little contracted piece. Hired a designer he does them better cheaper and gives me more time on saw.

I have done some pretty intricate patterns over time, but I have to say this one was one that really tested me... I failed in a couple minor areas,,, but I will not point them out.... The hair, oh that hair, was very tense,, around the ear. Didn't help that the last BB I purchased was not very good quality... Almost didn't buy it but I was out, so thought some is better than none.. This is a Charles Dearing pattern. Just off the saw... will have to make a frame and put finish on it... A present for my son..

A Sue May Pattern. Cut from a Walnut 5/32 solid core ply panel and mounted on a 1/4x12X18 Birch backer. the Walnut was stained with Minwax Dark Walnut to improve contrast. The backer was stained with Minwax Natural. The assembled panel was finisshed with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. The cut was done with Pegas #0 spiral blades. The Frame is a smple 1 3/4" wide Walnut which was also stained with Minwax Dark Walnut to enhance the color and finished with multiple coats of Minwax Satin Wipe-on Poly. Edit 5/11/2021: Just a little added information and rational. When I do a pattern like this that is applied on top of a backer so the image is raised, I'm very careful to make sure all the cut edges are stained as well to match. If left unstained, the cut edges are very noticable and a big distraction to the viewer. In addition, by making sure the cut edges are stained, the fact that the panel is plywood is not as apparent, again making the image much more attractive to the viewer. Also, it may be just me, but I realy like the presentation in a Frame rather then, how many would make it, as an unframed plaque. IMO, I think it is much more elegant. Thanks to all who have made such positive comments.

Hi All Made a shadow butterfly another one of steves patterns

"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams." Willy Wonka

Great job cutting one of my favorite people! What size is it?

Hello friends, some years ago I abandoned these mirror projects (10 years or so). First jobs I did with my scroll saw. Now with a free time I finished them. I hope you like the result. Thank you in advance for your comments. Greetings and a big hug to all.

terrific job, portrait of a great man

I always wait a day or two to apply finish because I use MS to remove the pattern... Then I sand it a little and hit it with about 3 - coats of Deft Clear Lacquer. Usually satin or simi-gloss.

I would try to get her to price them.

Assuming you are talking about standup puzzles, I like using Cherry. It is stable and very strong. If you drop a piece on a concrete floor, it might dent but won’t break. I also use Walnut, Maple and Sapele. The only issue with cutting 3/4” Cherry and Maple is they tend to burn when cutting tight corners. The trick is to keep the wood moving through the blade. I typically use FD UR blades in sizes 3, 5 and 7. If you are talking about jigsaw puzzles, I use 1/4” Baltic birch plywood with an Olson 2/0 skip tooth blade. Here are a few standup puzzles I sell.

Hi all, Just getting started scrolling and found this site. I have completed a few projects-bowls,vases and I am working on my first intarsia. I think I bit of more than I can chew on the intarsia but it is slowly coming together. I have spent some time here and it is great to get all these tips. It might help to keep my mistake pile smaller! Here is a picture of my modest scroll station.

Hey everyone. My name is Tim. I live in Mooreville MS which is right outside Tupelo where Elvis was born. Lets see, I started scrolling on a Craftsman saw when my son was a baby. I made him a lot of his toys. I continued for a couple of years just doing small projects here and there. Then life happened and I let alcohol take all of my hobbies and health away from me. Finally this last year I had enough and sobered up. I dug out my old saw and started enjoying being creative again. Decided I wanted to get a little more into it and replaced the Craftsman with the new Delta. I LOVE IT!!!!!! I love making bowls and fretwork. Sometimes I scroll something out that should be cut with a spiral blade using a regular blade just for fun. I have a local place here that displays and sells my perfectly imperfect projects. I give some away and make things to donate for some local groups. Go check out my gallery and let me know what you think. Tim

Im originally from the UK but now live in the USA. My first introduction to scrolling was back in school on a Hegner saw, and I always told myself someday I would like to do more of it. Finally decided that the time is now! In doing my research on what saw to buy this forum keeps popping up so thought I would sign up and join the community. Don't have my saw yet but will be buying one really soon. After much deliberation I think I have settled on the Pegas since it looks so user friendly. Just trying to decide what blades to go for at the moment before I place an order!

If you're old enough and grew up in the U.S. you probably recognize The Partridge Family. I would never have missed an episode. I believe they aired on Friday nights after The Brady Bunch in the early 70s. If you're not familiar with them it was a sitcom about a family musical group. They actually did record and have some hit records although the only cast members who were part of the actual recordings were Shirley Jones, top left, and David Cassidy, top middle. *Added an edited image of the cutting if anyone would like to use it as a pattern.

H Botas pattern made using an A4, 1/4inch baltic birch plywood sheet and a #2/0 spiral blade, lots of holes to this one took about 11hours of cutting,

Great job. I've got a dragon pattern in stock that I plan on cutting soon or later.

Very well done.

Well done Paul. This is the best Trump I’ve seen scrolled.

Well done! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

A Most Excellent cutting. Love the frame.

Beautiful job..... always been a dragon fan.... You did this dragon proud....

Beautiful work of art Frank! Very well done. I really like the way you present it with the contrasting woods and the frame.

You did a Outstanding job of Scrolling. Pattern Design Great. Danny :+}

Awesome pattern and cutting!

Nice! Much more detailed than the one that I cut

3/4-inch makes the puzzle freestanding, so it can also be used as a decoration. A 3/4-inch dragon sits perfectly on top of a door frame. When I first started making puzzles, 3/4-inch is what the customer wanted. 3/4-inch wood is readily available and requires very little prep. I'm making puzzles from solid wood 1/4 or 1/2-inch is too weak, in my opinion. I have made and sold puzzles 1-1/2-inch thick.

Over the years, I've done this with various other things - cars, computer equipment, scuba equipment on and on I have no issue with offering a price - specially when someone doesn't know the value of what they have and are reasonable in negotiating.

Excellent work Frank. Marg

Loved the Partridge Family...We actually saw Danny in Palm Springs when we were there a few years ago. Anyway love your cutting you did a fabulous job. Marg

Perfect scrolling

Really fine detail. Nice cutting.

My neighbor gave me a 12,000 btu window air last summer and I turn it on in the morning and turn it off when the sun goes down. There is no need to run it at night because the shop stays cool at night. I use a natural gas 50000 btu furnace in the winter. So I am comfortable year round.

I do agree with Dave.. I've never been one to like to "offer" someone a price, especially a "starting price" More times than not I just walk away... I don't mind dickering on a price.. do that all the time.. even in box stores, groceries etc. But to put a price tag on someone else's stuff.. nope not me..

Fantastic work, Paul! I'm curious about what type of finish you put on portraits like this? God Bless! Spirithorse

Excellent and a great likeness to the best pres ever!

Excellent work!! hope he’s back in 2024

I think most species of hardwood is great for the puzzles. I started out using mostly Poplar for a couple reasons.. but mostly because that was the main wood everyone else was using. When my stock of Poplar was running on the slim picking side and some boards was too small for some of the puzzles that was ordered I had soft Maple on hand. Cut really well and felt more dense / solid than the Poplar.. I've cut a few out of Ash too they cut well and was nice puzzles too. Made a few from Red Oak.. cut nice but as you probably know.. Oak likes to break easily, especially along the grain.. Not very good in my opinion for puzzles. Honestly I think I've probably made them from most types of solid hardwood and even a few from some cheap pine.. all went pretty well but the oak and pine I would pass on unless I was in a pinch and for some reason needed to use it for the puzzles.. Obviously the density will affect how quickly one can be cut too.. that said.. I've run into some Poplar that was dense and tough cutting at times too. but for the most part Poplar seems to cut nice, sand quick, and finish well.. If I was to be a customer and had to choose between all of the types that I have made so far.. I seem to like the solid feel to the Maple and Ash ones.. Have not made any from Cherry but I do cut almost every clock I make is made from Cherry.. love working with Cherry.. As Dan said.. cherry can burn easily and a FD-UR would be my last choice to use on Cherry because of the burning.. I have never ever burned cherry using the Pegas MG blades.. even running the saw full speed.. Back when I used to use the FD-UR blades.. always had to be careful cutting Cherry.. Might just be the way my saw is set up or? anyway Pegas blades work best for me when cutting Cherry.. Not sure why.. You may have different results.. just telling my experience with them on Cherry is all. I do think Cherry would make a nice puzzle.. always liked the solid density and nice look of the Cherry.. A bit pricey compared to Poplar and some of the others though..

I make my own frames for the portrait type panels I cut. Have been using a presice hand miter saw to cut my frames, but decided to see if I could not make a presice miter sled to make the task easier. I found a video on YouTube and decided it looked like its would work so I decided to build it. In principle it works but I had to make a few modifications to make it "more" usable. My bigest problem was attaching the runners to the sled so it had no play in alignment and getting it a true 45 degrees to the blade. After a lot of trial and error I was able to get them mounted true and now I get precice 45 degree cuts. What I like about this sled is that you don;t have to calculate the cut lengths adjusting for the rabet. Here is a couple of pics of my sled. Take note of how my sliding block clamp needed an extra piece of wood glued to the top of the square to make it hold better. I did not like his version. His sled was also too big for my small shop table saw, so I trimmed it down which resulted in me having to add the one piece back as you cab see in the pic. And, since most of my work is a cut flat panel affixed to a backer I was having difficulty applying even pressure accross the panel using my various clamps. I tried to use heavy boards on top and bottom to spread the pressure. However, the need to move the work around to apply the clamps often resulted in the panels sliding and not remaining square with each other. I decided I needed a clamping fixture that woul eliminate the problems I was having. Using some good grade 3/4" thk plywood, some poplar 1" square dowels and some 1/4-20 bolts, flat washers and wing nuts, this is what I came up with. The cross dowels are epoxyed to the plywood and the bolts and washers are epoxyed in place. Only the wing nuts are loose. The whole thing is quite heavy but makes clamping the flat panels, without fear of them sliding out of place, very easy. Hope this might help someone.

I built a panel cutting sled, but I find just using my tape measure and the table saw rip fence,I can cut my panels more accurately than with the sled. A cross cut sled is great for accurate/square cross cuts for doing big wood projects. For doing frames and the occasional need for some boards trimmed to length, my precision aftermarket T-slot tee with a wide board attached works just fine.

Hey, when you have scroll saws you have other tools. Sanders planers, drills, bandsaws and all those extras.

Mirrors fit for a King or Queen. Great job and greeting right back at ya!

I think elegant can only describe it. Those are very beautiful. Always enjoy your work!

Just love this one, well done.

Yes sir,,,, A+ on both... Can't take a hug though... got to practice social distancing and all.... Save that hug for later...

WOW Beautiful job. Awesome pattern and cutting

Well done. The expression in the eyes are great.

I totally agree with what you are suggesting. I don't expect to be able to cool the shop down a lot, but if It keeps it from being untolerable and reduces the humidity a little, it will be worth it. I had already consider the insulation on the under side of the roof if I find I really need it. There is very little exposed wall as I covered most with plywood in order to hang tools, shelves, etc. Also, the shed sits below a shade tree and is located in the space between the two adjacent houses, and does not get direct sun until late morning and during mid day. I don't ususlly work durring those hours anyway. I may not be a Mexican, but that is my siesta time.

Looks great!

Welcome to the Village! I don't know anything about this brand of saw, don't think I've ever seen one in person but have seen images online from time to time. I'm guessing this saw has removable blade holders and that piece on the right corner in your third picture looks to me like a fixture to hold that blade holder while you tighten the screw to hold the blade. So yeah it's a blade holders holder to tighten the blade down..