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This is my take on the nativity scene that several of you have also done. It measures 17x22" in 1/4" baltic birch. The backer is also 1/4" that is painted black with acrylic paint. The frame is chair molding from Lowes that is glued and pin nailed from the back onto the baltic birch. The frame is stained dark walnut. Everything is sprayed with shellac and then top coated with satin lacquer. The pattern is a Sullyscroller pattern. Everything was cut with spiral blades. The tiny details like the eyes were with a 2/0 blade. The largest blade I used was a #3.

¼" plywood - 12" x 11" because I misjudged my cutting H.Botas pattern

Some have asked for dozen packs at the gross price. To make this possible, I entered into our online store Pegas Repackaged in a 3 dozen pack. This is both the MGT and Skip blades with more to follow. To find, go to the website and enter in the "search" box "repackaged". This will bring up all the repackaged items. Orders over $35 are shipped free.

As Ben said, I cut the image because I like it, whether it be positive or a negative. I honestly never paid any attention to that myself and I never had a customer ask to make it a certain way either..

Needed to take a break from doing framed, flat panel portrait work and make something different. I have had this Side and End wall bird battern for a very long time and have revisited it often. It did include the base pattern, but there were no patterns/details for the top or bottom. I had to design them on the fly. The box is nom 12” wide by 8” deep and 4” high. I really did not realize how large the box was until I began to assemble it. Since the box was quite large I decided it needed a divided drop-in tray. The box outer walls, base, top and bottom is solid red oak. The red painted wall backers, inside box bottom, inside base top and the inside box tray supports were made from 1/8” BB ply (cut from my cut-off scrap pile). The tray was made from 1/4" Red Oak solid core ply and has a depth of 1 1/4 inches. Because I did not realize the size of the box, I was forced to purchase a 6 foot length of Red Oak 1” by 12” (3/4” by 11 1/2“) to make the top and bottom. Big $$$$$. The available 2 foot long boards at Lowes were not quite long enough as I need 26 inches. So I now have a nice 3’-10” length left for another future project. I planed the bottom down to 1/2”. For the top I rabbeted the bottom perimeter 1/4"deep so the top has a lid keeper that projects into the box. I sanded a small round on each corner and I used a small ogee router bit to put a decorative edge all around the top and bottom. Everything was finished with many coats of clear gloss Lacquer after which I lined the tray and the lower box with red felt. A very sticky job as I was using contact cement. I'm contemplating installing some small hinges as the top is heavy and will be cumbersome to remove and replace during use. I’m attaching a few pics as it is hard to show all the detail in one. Feel free to critique my work. . Edit 7/3/21: It was requested I post pics with the hinges installed. I was able to mortice the hinges into the box and lid to get the lid to land flat on the box. The lid does not need a hold open device because of the lids overhang.

So, positive, boats at sea, negative, dancer, both, girl with flowers and butterflies. Compound cuts will also be positive. Interesting that I never considered this aspect before.

Since I don't design patterns myself, It doesn't really matter to me if it's a positive or negative pattern, or a combination of both. If I like it, I try and cut it. The KISS principle for me.

Very nice. I make boxes, I saw the scroll saw box plans but thought things would fall out or not be private. I never thought that a liner would be used, that changes everything. I will have to try one. Nice work. Carl

I have had this pattern for a long time and I believe I got it from the Scroll saw magazine, quite awhile back. I just ran across is as I was looking for a different one and I showed it to my wife and she said she would like one of them. So here it is. I do not remember who the pattern maker is. I am quite disappointed in how it came out, as I found myself having to take it apart but still could not seem to get it right. From the far side of the room, it looks ok though. I only posted it because I don't want anyone to think I am sitting on my duff, watching TV Dick heppnerguy

First let me provide "my" definetion or these terms. In scroll saw fret work we cut away areas in a wood panel to expose a recognizable image to the human eye/brain. In some patterns we cut away the wood around the image - with or without an inclusive cut frame - where the cut panel is a "positive" image (my definition) and the background is just that, a background. The image is a projection above the backer. In other patterns the wood that is cut away creates the image, where the cut panel is a "negative':, again my definition, with the backer providing a contrasting color that produces what the human sees as an image. In this type of cutting the image is only perceived and alwasy has a lot of gaps that are filled in by the brain to form the image. BTW, there is also another version where both positive and negative is done on the same piece...I've don a few like that. I'm hope my definitions are making sense and y'all understand the difference I'm describing. There are no real Q&A here. Maybe just a little discussion, comments, opinions, likes, dislikes about these different methods of image creation. Or maybe a better discusion is, which kind of "positive" of "negative" image creation is found to be more appealing to those who view, and/or comment on our. work? I'm not really considering Plaques or multiple layer pieces for this discussion altough there may be some revelance there also. In this virtual meeting of the membership the floor is hereby open for discussion.

So I have a co-worker who loves to hunt, fish.. all of it. He's walked a property I have access to hunt earlier in the spring to help me since I've never really hunted before. He's gonna retire next year, and we are all still working from home. So I cut this for him without him knowing, and I am going to just hang it in his cube before we have to go back, so when he gets in, it's just there, and I see how long it takes him to notice it. It's about 1/4 - 5/16" hard maple, with a ply backer... Cut with Olson #2/0R blades Another Sheila Landry design.

Excellent work! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

That is superb! @TexasDIYI also like the frame you made for it but, am curious, why is it called chair molding? Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Very beautiful.

My first thought was “Time to MOVE!” Nice cut. Creepy.

Welcome to the village!! So you talk to Bushton Manufacturing or just look on the website? They don't have it on their site but they do or maybe I should say did make a motor and controller upgrade kit for these old saws with the problematic AC motor. The upgrade kit isn't cheap at like $350 but it is a brand new motor and control box modified with the new style bearing block on the motor etc.. and is a direct bolt up kit. The reason there isn't much parts offered for these old saws is because not much goes bad on them, LOL Basically the tension cam and rear wedge shaped thing at the back of the saw is the main wear parts.. most people upgrade the tension cam to the new style.. IF the motor still runs but you cannot change the speed.. you may be able to find a work around for that such as a old sewing machine controller or ? I've also seen where people just wire the motor direct and bypass the controller, then it's a single speed but is usable at full speed for some folks anyway. Full speed on my saw 1993 220VS is 1500 strokes per minute.. I run mine on full speed for cutting wood etc.. probably not doable if you going to cut plastic or metal materials. Anyway, hopefully you can get in contact with Bushton and get the upgrade kit still.. Hopefully you didn't give a lot of money for the saw because there are some decent deals out there on newer saws for the $350 you need for the newer motor kit. They are great saws and built to last.. I'm not sure but.. I don't know of any other brand other than maybe Hegner that even offers parts for a near 30 year old saw.. Heck many 10 year old saws can't even get parts for, LOL

very nice job

terrific job

Very nice!

You are correct, see below. wichman's example is not quite what I was refering to, but as a plaque it is a "Negative" Image within a "Positive" image that is acting as the background.. I should have include the following examples of what I was refering to in my original post. My recent Bragging Rights post "Alucard...: is a good example of what I call a "Negative" Image. The wood removed from the cut panel revealed the Image and the cut panel itself creates the background . It is important to note that the images has many gaps/bridges in the image perimeter and the image is made up of many small cut out areas. An earliier post, my "Chinese Dragon" is a good example of a what I call a "Positive" Image. The Removal of the surounding wood reveals the image and the backer becomes the background. In this cutting the entire perimeter of the image is continuous and even if not mounted on a backer the image would be recognizable. Going way back, my piece called "Pretty Kitty - Jaguar" is and example of what I see as are somewhat the combination of both. Although the image is actually a "Positive" image, because there are many gaps in the "Image" perimeter itself, it needs the eye to see the image as a continuous subject like a "Negative" image does. Hope this clears up my original post, especially for octoolguy!!!

You can call it Ben. Excellent job!! Especially those whiskers!

WOW! Down Right Awesome work!!

Very impressive indeed. Certainly time well spent. Marg

Well that's different......But excellent cutting, boy those whiskers look fragile. Marg

Okay, I'm thinking that is a lot better than the one I did.... Great job.

If I understand correctly, in the following image (from Steve Goods site) the football is a "positive" image; the lettering, lacing, bands, and figures are "negative" images.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Mr_Pipo_negative_positive.svg

I can't help but think a picture of examples, demonstrating your definitions, would be of value here.

Wow! That is truly amazing!!! Impressive as all heck!

Nice job on everything!

You are a busy guy. I like all the originality you put into your projects. I too especially like the way you make your frames, as they are like no one else's. Dick heppnerguy

very nice work

Beautiful job Frank. I too like red oak. I know it's not very exotic but neither am I.

@don in brooklin on many thanks to you, I got this piece done and ready to present. Two layers of 1/4" MDF with paint in appropriate sections on the bottom layer. This is 16" diameter and is the biggest piece I have cut with flat blades. Briefly considered spirals, but thought better of it. Hardest parts were supporting it when a lot of the mass was hanging over the edge of the table.

Very nice Frank I love making boxes when I get time...Any chance of a copy of what you have... not seen that design before... Merlin...

Frank your mermaid did have both posituve and negatiive silouettes. It make the viewer think. For me it was easy to see the mermaid. Only after we discussed how to paint it did I realize it was both pos and neg. So i guess the decision would be how or what the whole picture /story wants to be. If you want the viewer to think about the scene it is a good way to get them to pause and feel the art piece.

I started out doing regular sillouettes where you cut out the pieces and toss them and save the main piece. had to worry abotu those eye pieces and such that would fall out if not connected and the like. I was doing one and sort of winging it one day and after I cut out the pieces i had difficulty seeing exactly what i was doing so i put the cut out pieces back in to see if I could figure it out. Was sold right then and there that by just having contrasting color pieces it will make the artwork much better, for me anyway. I have thought about going back to some sillouettes but doing them the other way, Getting rid of the main pattern and only saving the cut out pieces but havent got around to it yet. Sort of a photo negative type thing.

Sorry but I have no idea what you are asking.