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Finished these 16 name puzzles this morning that I cut yesterday.....painted 93 letters in all......have to say my brain is a little fried......but I'm happy with the results.....thx for looking

A Puppy Coin Bank finished for a great grandchild. The pattern is by Paul Meisel and found in one of the issues of SWWC. If you want to know which one, message me. The body is 3/4" Pine and the ears are 1/2" Walnut. Finished with one coat spray Shellac and two coats Minmax spray Lacquer Clear satin. Comments welcome.

I scroll in my dining room. One big advantage of being single.

At 82 I'm not only done but can't. I can't walk across the lawn as any slight variation causes me to loose my balance. I have to use a walker. We hire a lawn service to cut, fertilize and do weed control. My wife goes ballistic if the yard is not pristine. Fortunately we have two daughters and sons in law who do a lot for us. We will never move to a retirement place. We are not willing to give up our home. Neither would our girls allow it. Would be different were they living a long ways off. We may be old but we are blessed!

Some have asked for dozen packs at the gross price. To make this possible, I entered into our online store Pegas Repackaged in a 3 dozen pack. This is both the MGT and Skip blades with more to follow. To find, go to the website and enter in the "search" box "repackaged". This will bring up all the repackaged items. Orders over $35 are shipped free.

Well, living where I do, I can pretty much do whatever, whenever. I've got a small heater in my shop and I just installed an a/c unit through the back wall for when it gets hot. We live in a very moderate climate. Right now, it looks like rain but the rest of the state is in the 90's and 100's. The only thing that stops me from getting things done is me. I'm basically lazy when it comes to stuff that I don't feel like doing. Like painting. We've been putting that off for a couple of years now.

It would be helpful if the OP would give us more info and answer the questions asked so far. Too many people duck in long enough to post a question and then disappear. I, for one, would like to know the outcomes of these dilemmas. Once again, we have no idea where this person is located. That info is useful.

That is a great example of both in one cutting. Dick heppnerguy

@meflick took the words out of my mouth when she said, Nnot my cup of tea, but, you did an excellent job of cutting! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Needed to take a break from doing framed, flat panel portrait work and make something different. I have had this Side and End wall bird battern for a very long time and have revisited it often. It did include the base pattern, but there were no patterns/details for the top or bottom. I had to design them on the fly. The box is nom 12” wide by 8” deep and 4” high. I really did not realize how large the box was until I began to assemble it. Since the box was quite large I decided it needed a divided drop-in tray. The box outer walls, base, top and bottom is solid red oak. The red painted wall backers, inside box bottom, inside base top and the inside box tray supports were made from 1/8” BB ply (cut from my cut-off scrap pile). The tray was made from 1/4" Red Oak solid core ply and has a depth of 1 1/4 inches. Because I did not realize the size of the box, I was forced to purchase a 6 foot length of Red Oak 1” by 12” (3/4” by 11 1/2“) to make the top and bottom. Big $$$$$. The available 2 foot long boards at Lowes were not quite long enough as I need 26 inches. So I now have a nice 3’-10” length left for another future project. I planed the bottom down to 1/2”. For the top I rabbeted the bottom perimeter 1/4"deep so the top has a lid keeper that projects into the box. I sanded a small round on each corner and I used a small ogee router bit to put a decorative edge all around the top and bottom. Everything was finished with many coats of clear gloss Lacquer after which I lined the tray and the lower box with red felt. A very sticky job as I was using contact cement. I'm contemplating installing some small hinges as the top is heavy and will be cumbersome to remove and replace during use. I’m attaching a few pics as it is hard to show all the detail in one. Feel free to critique my work. . Edit 7/3/21: It was requested I post pics with the hinges installed. I was able to mortice the hinges into the box and lid to get the lid to land flat on the box. The lid does not need a hold open device because of the lids overhang.

I don't do much scrolling in the summer. I have basically stopped until fall. I may do a little project. I have too much other stuff to do as a homeowner if I can find someone to help me. Seems nobody wants to work anymore. My time is short for getting things done outside living in MI and having only a few months of really nice weather to get things done and enjoying the summer weather. I'll probably start scrollin' again in Sept., Oct. Just curious how others go about it. Ben

This is my take on the nativity scene that several of you have also done. It measures 17x22" in 1/4" baltic birch. The backer is also 1/4" that is painted black with acrylic paint. The frame is chair molding from Lowes that is glued and pin nailed from the back onto the baltic birch. The frame is stained dark walnut. Everything is sprayed with shellac and then top coated with satin lacquer. The pattern is a Sullyscroller pattern. Everything was cut with spiral blades. The tiny details like the eyes were with a 2/0 blade. The largest blade I used was a #3.

I made this for a Friend that has a 65 Corvette That he shows.

I cut both positive and negative. The only thing that determines it is how the pattern presents itself. Hope this helps.

I live in South Carolina and during the 100 degree summer, I have an AC pointed at the scroll saw. I still sweat out three pounds of water, but at least it is bearable. The winter does get chilly, but usually I can do things in the afternoon. I have scrolled when it was 40 degrees. Didn’t last long though.

Hiding from the law perhaps?

I don't use bellows. I use DC top and bottom. I don't like dust being blown around the shop. I get enough dust without a fan.

That is a good one!

I just ran across this picture that I had saved on my computer. It might clear up the whole angled cut thing.

Superb box. Roly

HI I don't use my bellows, I have a air brush compressor hooked up to my saw and it works great for keeping dust away while sawing. I then mounted a shop vac floor brush upside down under my saw front and my dust collector kicks on when I step on the pedal. Bill

Very good cutting on this 3/4" can be a bit of a challenge, but you stepped up and hit it out of the park. If you're having trouble deciding on hinges, Lee Valley has a huge selection of small hinges.

Your fast, fast on the cutting, fast on the painting. Excellent work all around. Are these all for family? Special order? How did you paint them? Spray paint? Something else? Did you paint all sides?

You have been BUSY! Very colorful and good looking work.

Thanks for the reply, @TexasDIY and thank you @Tom-in-Ashland That makes perfect sense now that you have pointed it out to me! LOL God Bless! Spirithorse

easy to make muffler, Cleaned the bag on my dust collector, very fine flour like dust the kind that does damage to a person's lungs

Hi, I think we could talk in terms of adding material on a surface , silhouette on backboard or removing material from a surface to highlight the images that we want to show. Maybe I am wrong but this is how I see this approach to the same issue. Ciao Angelo

In some older homes dinning rooms there is a molding strip on the wall at the height of the back to prevent the chair back from damaging the lath & plaster wall. Hence, "Chair Rail Molding"

dan, does the motor do anything at all? i think it might be able to be fixed as long as the motor is not burned up. i would check the variable speed control box for a fuse. do you have and or know how to use a electrical test meter to do some basic testing? i know from another forum i used to go on MET out of mankato minnesota made a lot of rbi controls for them. dont know if they made them for the a/c motor though. another option is the variable speed controller might be able to be repaired. if the person you got it from did not do a good job with dust collection it might just be saw dust on the contacts of the main switch. it is not always an expensive fix.let us know what you find out. doug

I have no idea why it is called that. Lowes calls it: 1-1/4-in x 8-ft White Hard Unfinished Chair Rail Moulding. There are at least 3 different widths.

¼" plywood - 12" x 11" because I misjudged my cutting H.Botas pattern

Thanks Frank. I was just sort of "confused" over the question. Still not sure what difference it makes. But, that's just me.

It's for my daughter, she's always kept 'pet' rats ..

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Mr_Pipo_negative_positive.svg

It's really not much to look at but here are a couple of pics of it upside down. The first two just show how I constructed it. Like I said, not pretty. But the 3rd pic shows how it looks in place on the vac. It is aimed toward the rear of the saw and what noise does still emit, goes away from me. It's really very quiet. And I don't think there is enough restriction to harm the vac. I just added a pic showing looking down from above but before I added the muffler. You can see how it shoots toward the rear where the little cyclone is mounted.

LOts of good avice above, but lets talk a little differently. I really can not speak directly to skip tooth blades as I don't use them. I very rarely use blades larger than #1, I use very samall Pegas MGT R and Pegas sprials to do more tha 99% of the cutting I do. If you are using a 2/0 blade to do very intricate fretwork and having difficulty tracking the line, I suspect you are probably pushing too hard and have the saw speed is up too high. Proper tension is important, but yolu must let the blade do the cutting. I do not like to spin the work piece to turn a corner when Im using a small blade so I tend to use what I call the double cut method. Fully enter the corner, back out and cut a new cut over to the corner on the oppisite line leaving a small cut out that the piece can be rotated around the stopped blade to continue on the new path. Rotating a work piece around the blade while cutting always leaves a rounded corner/intersection, rather than a very sharp point, especially when the corner is supposed to be very sharp. I'd rather double cut than bugger up a corner or sharp point rying to rotate the piece while cutting. Oh, just one other thing, you must look at the blade and line you are cutting and not look where you do not want go...if you do the blade will goi there...trust me, I know. Now lets talk a little about tracking along the line. When I'm able to, in Inkscape, I make the line width just about visible in RED at .005 inches and try to use a very light Grey fill. Since I use a very thin line, I do not attemp to split the line, but rather keep the blade tracking as true as possible tight along the waste side of the line. If I lose some control, I attempt to do so on the waste side so I can shave back to the line or even sand it smooth with my dremel burrs later if necessary. Also, as you are well aware, in many intricate patterns adjacent cut lines may be very close together. Using a thin line allow me to move the blade to the other side of the line to provide a little bit more space between parellel cuts. Since the cut line is so thin this variation on which side of the line I cut is not even visible when all said an done. I do not find the wood thickness to be of concern when using small blades. However, the thicker the wood the slower the piece must be pushed. Again the blade must do the cutting and it can't be rushed. Unless I'm cutting something like block font or long straight or smooth curved lines I have personally gone to using spiral blades for cutting fretwork. No rotating the work piece and much better line tracking once you master using spirals, That being said I stll use the same method of tracking the blade along the cut line as I described above. For most fretwork I do, the pattern cuts are very forgiving if there is minor deviations in tracking the cut line. HTH

Nicely done, Dick! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

My first table saw experience was a very scary situation for me as well. Getting over that first cut was unnerving as all get up. I thought for sure I was going to either fall into the blade, cut my fingers or my hand off or the blade was going to come off and slice me in two or the wood was going shoot back and impale me like a vampire stake! However, after reading a bunch of articles on the safety aspects and watching a few videos I proceeded to do 1 cut. It was a simple straight cut of a scrap board I had After that first cut it got much easier and I've since become much more adept at using the table saw. I do how ever still treat it with great respect and always follow my safety guidelines not matter what I'm cutting or how few pieces I cut The tricks for me to get over my apprehension was: 1. Use a push stick - in fact I used 2. One to push on the fence side and one to push on the outside.. The outside push stick I used was the gripppper! It really helped get me over that apprehension hump. It worked so well, I bought another! 2. Keep hands away from the throat cover - very important and my #1 rule still today and why I opted to use a push stick on both sides. I have my throat plates painted red to make sure I adhere to this rule. If a piece I am going to cut falls even remotely close the edge of throat plate, push sticks come up and I proceed from there! Good luck with your table saw. It's not that bad, really