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I'm on a Brit car kick. The 1962 Mark II MGA was the last production model of this style. It came in 4 and 5 speed Trannies and a 1500 an 1600 engine. While looking around, I found several in the $14-17K range of different mileage and condition. Original when for $2,800+/_. Back then, I was working in my dad's bakery for $1.50 and hour. Not on my wish list then.

I just finished cutting this one.

We were married on July 2nd in 1966. Steve Good has an anniversary pattern for most years and I made one last year. This morning, I relpaced last years plaque with an updated one. The plaque is located on one of our kitchen widow-sills The foreground is made of 6mm thick Figured Maple and the background of 18mm thick Baltic Birch plywood treated with Light Green Saman stain.

My array of Beach/Nautical/Ttropical cuttings is quite extensive. Some are from way back when I had first started up to my more recent work. Most of my latest work is intended to apeal to the Beach Community here along the Atlantic Coast of Central Florida. A lot of what we call beach side home owners love to decorate their high cost homes with a lot of beachy things. This first piece was one of my very early attempts at creating a pattern and then adding color to the finished piece. This last one hangs in my living room and we call it our aquariumn:

Finished these 16 name puzzles this morning that I cut yesterday.....painted 93 letters in all......have to say my brain is a little fried......but I'm happy with the results.....thx for looking

Hello friends, here in Mexico we are in the middle of Summer and the rains and cold are at their maximum. For the moment, I show you the last work I did. Thank you very much in advance for your comments and greetings to all.

I made this a while back. SSWW&Craft Magazine.

More beach fun A few patterns I purchased from Sue Mey and Scrolleronline.

Here's a few beach type things I've done. Guess I'll have to cut something else "beachy" this month. The two lighthouses are window shutters I did for a lady last summer. I made two panels from Poplar, about 16"w x 26"h x 1" d

Needed to take a break from doing framed, flat panel portrait work and make something different. I have had this Side and End wall bird battern for a very long time and have revisited it often. It did include the base pattern, but there were no patterns/details for the top or bottom. I had to design them on the fly. The box is nom 12” wide by 8” deep and 4” high. I really did not realize how large the box was until I began to assemble it. Since the box was quite large I decided it needed a divided drop-in tray. The box outer walls, base, top and bottom is solid red oak. The red painted wall backers, inside box bottom, inside base top and the inside box tray supports were made from 1/8” BB ply (cut from my cut-off scrap pile). The tray was made from 1/4" Red Oak solid core ply and has a depth of 1 1/4 inches. Because I did not realize the size of the box, I was forced to purchase a 6 foot length of Red Oak 1” by 12” (3/4” by 11 1/2“) to make the top and bottom. Big $$$$$. The available 2 foot long boards at Lowes were not quite long enough as I need 26 inches. So I now have a nice 3’-10” length left for another future project. I planed the bottom down to 1/2”. For the top I rabbeted the bottom perimeter 1/4"deep so the top has a lid keeper that projects into the box. I sanded a small round on each corner and I used a small ogee router bit to put a decorative edge all around the top and bottom. Everything was finished with many coats of clear gloss Lacquer after which I lined the tray and the lower box with red felt. A very sticky job as I was using contact cement. I'm contemplating installing some small hinges as the top is heavy and will be cumbersome to remove and replace during use. I’m attaching a few pics as it is hard to show all the detail in one. Feel free to critique my work. . Edit 7/3/21: It was requested I post pics with the hinges installed. I was able to mortice the hinges into the box and lid to get the lid to land flat on the box. The lid does not need a hold open device because of the lids overhang.

Hi a little cow converted by TD from a picture my girlfriends mum had on her wall. Turned out pretty good.

Living in a beach community, many of our customers want beachy items. They don't really go for things with the area name in them but they do go for Sea oriented items. Some of our best customer are little ones and often know what they want and what they don't want is what their parents want them to want LOL. Here are some of our little ones most popular items (unfinished so they can color them) And one of our colored samples the kids love The adults go for other items however

I hope everyone has a Safe and Awesome 4th of July!!

Very nice and very well done Frank. My lady and I will celebrate our 55th anniversary in 2 months. This inspires me to do one for her.

John The photos they show of the Excalibur's are photos of the ones made in Taiwan . The new ones are made in China which are not the best from what I have read. I would make sure the Excalibur's are the Taiwan models, which I seriously doubt. The first clue was the Knob in the very back. It sits higher on the Taiwan models and much lower in the Chinese ones.

Chris, I've been to Hawaii several times and all your cuttings really represent the spirit of the Islands. The grain selection is perfect.

Made this for a friends wedding. Interesting pattern. The flowers, names, and date are cut into the main piece which is Aspen. The dark frame and words are cut from walnut and glued to the Aspen. And a 1/4" BB backer painted black under the Aspen. Turned out to be tougher than I thought it would be.

A couple of mine. Saw the waves in an article about Fiona Kingdon in SSWW magazine, always wanted to cut one of hers, and it looked like a challenge. Hint....it was. Viking ship was an H.Botas pattern, as was the pirate owl (cuz, c'mon, who DOESN'T need a cutting of a pirate owl?!?), picked those up from his Etsy shop. Nautilus gears were from Steve Good, working gears are always fun to cut.

I did this beach scene back in Feb of 2019 and is posted on the site. The design is based on a paint by numbers my wife did and also a puzzle. My wife converted the picture in Photoshop to greyscale. The design took quite a while because I wanted to get the beach and light house right. We gifted the paint by numbers and puzzle to good friends that live by the beach.

My most popular item with the locals and the tourists... wall mounted sea turtle key rack and someone asked for a larger version for towels/coats. Carolina Beach is the town I live in.

Ok I know this isn't Scrollsaw however it is Beach themed. I also do mini Scenes. Here is some I did for our Master Bath which is Beached themed. Cup 1. Boat, surf board, seagull on pier and whale are from E-Bay, Rocks are aquarium stones, coffee cup is from a yard sale and blue is spray foam painted blue. Cup 2. Lighthouse is from Hubby's collection, Rocks are aquarium stones, flowers from Dollar Tree. Coffee Cup from yard sale and water is spray foam painted blue with white painted waves. Cup 3. Lighthouse is from Hubby's collection, Rock if out of farmers field next door. 4. Whale is from E-Bay, shell is from a beach in Florida, stones are aquarium stones. 5. Fairy is from E-bay, Shell is from a Beach, Whales and starfish are from E-Bay and stones are aquarium stones. Ray, I hope this helps.

Freestanding Seahorse Puzzle made several years ago.

British sports cars are some of my favs - I've owned several over the years and the MGA is one I've long admired` Thanks for sharing it

Same to you and everybody else here on The Village!

To all my Americans friends have a safe and happy 4th of July. I survived our 1st of July Canada day.

Back at you and to all!

great job

and the same to you

Hello octoolguy. parts are Parts 727201 – Lower Blade Holder (set of 3), . JWSS22B-448 ........... Spring ...., JWSS22B-203 ........... Switch Rubber Cover Have checked Jet Web site and all there, just Jet don't post over seas, and I said eReplacement are chaging $40 for postage, damned annoying as just had load of blades sent over from Bear Woods and only charged $16 postage..

Thanks Wayne, I think I may just have to email them and ask where the saws are made.

Have a happy and safe 4th of July.

Great stuff. I used to make quite a few bob from name puzzles very similar.

A Big Congrats on both. Beautiful job. On both.

I also remember this car, My Nephew has one, not a 62 but a 64. Red. He Loved it. Drove it till if fell apart. Of course he regrets it now. Awesome job on the plaque.

I remember this car, I worked in an electrical garage and we had one come in to have a radio or something put in it, from memory it was yellow. Lovely to sit in and dream. Beautiful cutting as always. Marg.

Congratulations to you both Frank. And great work on the plaque. Marg

WOW! That’s really cool!

Only for the bottom so you can top feed

Out there, yes. The humidity is low, so adding some more moisture to the air is a good thing. We, our wood furniture, and our tools are quite comfortable working in 30-60% moisture, but it is "relative humidity". As the air temperature changes, the amount of moisture that the air can hold changes, even if you aren't adding moisture to it. This 30-60% is right when the temperature is around 70 degrees F. Cool this same air and it can hold less moisture, so this same air will have a higher relative humidity reading of likely 70% and higher as the temperature goes lower. Go low enough and this same air will begin to condense water droplets on your metal tools. As the air outdoors heats up during the day it can hold more moisture, and will collect it off evaporating lakes, trees, grass, etc. Then as the Sun goes down and the air cools, this air temperature to moisture content ratio will reverse, and the cooler that the air gets, the less moisture the air can hold. What it collected during the warm day is now too much for the cooler air. Dew falling and collecting on surfaces as the air cools is this excess moisture that the air can no longer hold. 100% relative humidity is the dew point. Keeping the relative humidity in your shop well below 100% will prevent this moisture from rusting your tools. Dehumidifiers and AC units cool the air enough to get the moisture out of the air by lowering the air temperature and getting this moisture to collect on the cold coils inside. Then the air passes through the warm coils (in a dehumidifier) and is warmed back up. An AC unit condenses this excess moisture out, but also cools the air by moving the heat from the inside of the shop and releasing it outdoors. It does not do much cooling until it can remove much of the humidity in the shop, but then can become quite effective at cooling the shop once the moisture has been removed. If you can learn that there is a relationship between air temperature and the moisture that this air can hold is relative to each other, and that cooler air cannot hold as much moisture as warmer air, all this becomes easier to understand. 100% relative humidity is the maximum that the air can hold at any given temperature. Cool this air and the moisture in it can no longer fit in it, so it will become dew and fall or condense on things. This 100% humidity is also called the "Dew Point" - the point at which dew (excess moisture) begins to form as the air cools. Keep this dew point relationship well below 100% and both you and your tooling will be happy, with 50-60% being the most comfortable levels. This is also why your shop and home have lower humidity in them during the Winter. The air outside is cold, so it has very little moisture in it, even though it's relative humidity may be 80-90%, but when this same air comes inside and is warmed up to 70 degrees or so, the relative humidity becomes very low and you become uncomfortable because it's too dry for you at 15-25%. Cool this inside air back down to the outside air temperature and the relative humidity of this same air will increase back to what it was when the air temperature again matches what it was outdoors. When the relative humidity of the air increases above 100% at any temperature, it's going to rain or condense on the cold surfaces because some of it no longer fits inside the air. This is a bit long, but I hope it gives you all a better understanding of why your tools rust in an unheated shop as the shop air temperature falls, why it rains at the beginning of a Cold Front moving in, and what dehumidifiers and AC units can do to help us and our tools remain rust free and comfortable. Don't open your shop overhead door to the outside when it's raining or very warm and humid outside. Charley

This is my take on the nativity scene that several of you have also done. It measures 17x22" in 1/4" baltic birch. The backer is also 1/4" that is painted black with acrylic paint. The frame is chair molding from Lowes that is glued and pin nailed from the back onto the baltic birch. The frame is stained dark walnut. Everything is sprayed with shellac and then top coated with satin lacquer. The pattern is a Sullyscroller pattern. Everything was cut with spiral blades. The tiny details like the eyes were with a 2/0 blade. The largest blade I used was a #3.

Some have asked for dozen packs at the gross price. To make this possible, I entered into our online store Pegas Repackaged in a 3 dozen pack. This is both the MGT and Skip blades with more to follow. To find, go to the website and enter in the "search" box "repackaged". This will bring up all the repackaged items. Orders over $35 are shipped free.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here. Thank goodness caus I couldn't even understand the question

I only finished the Red Oak with the clear Lacquer. The color is not very deep, but I is much richer looking in person than what is seen in the photo's. Often when I use Red Oak for my Frames, I will deepen the color with Red Oak stain. That improves the contrast between Frame and portrait, but in this case I prefered to just maintain the natural wood color. Thank you for your comments. Much appreciated.

Very nice Frank I love making boxes when I get time...Any chance of a copy of what you have... not seen that design before... Merlin...

How do you decide on amount of work vs the wood choice? I feel that your quality of workmanship is better than red oak material. Is the amount of time and effort worth getting more exotic wood? I struggle with this decision based on project also. If it is a handle vs a fine jewelry box. Or will I need to tap threads. Who the article is intended to go to. I have lots of these stupid concepts in my head as I start choosing next project.

G'day all, Was just having a look at available saws in Aust. The only reasonably decent saw for many years has been the Carbatec (re branded Excalibur ). I purchased a real EX21 from this company years ago and it was terrible, the only thing worse was their service. Every once in a while I go on a bit of a fosic around to see if any reasonable saws have become available and have found a couple. (Wonders never cease ) Just Tools has the black excaliburs, not sure where these are made? https://www.beyondtools.com/?orderby=price-desc&paged=1&s=scroll+saw&post_type=product&type_aws=true&aws_id=1&aws_filter=1&awscat=Form%3A1+Filter%3AAll and JB Tools has the 22" Jet. https://au.jbtools.com/jet-727200b-jwss-22b-22-inch-scroll-saw-with-foot-switch/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz5Cr8b3G8QIVbNOWCh3W9AxKEAQYCCABEgLgAvD_BwE Looks like an EX. try hard with a few different features. Have any of you Ladies or Gents had any experience with these specific types ? I have an EX21 (Taiwanese) with Pegas clamps and love it, and a Dewalt which has seen better days, but is used for heavy work. Cheers

If I calculated this correctly your angle of cut would be 18 degrees. 360 degrees in a circle, and 20 layers would work out as 360 / 20 = 18. You would need to calculate the circumference of each layer divide that by2 to get the radius of the circle to cut, then divide that in 2 to setup your compass to draw the next circle. Another way which is simpler would be to to take your compass. put it in the center of the piece you just cut on the shortest side. Keeping the it on the center expand the other side to meet the outer circumference of the piece you cut ( on the shorter side ). Once it is equal on both sides 180 apart you can draw your next circle to cut at 18 degrees. Repeat till all pieces are cut.