Leaderboard

Been cutting a large mandala for a while (in between honey-do's....11 layers....) and decided I wanted to cut something quick, just needed to feel like I completed a project. LOL Found a cool tattoo pic on Pinterest, nothing I could find as far as accreditation, so I figured why not. Lion is about 8" tall, maybe 5 or 6 wide. 1/8" BBply, Minwax Dark Walnut stain. Backer is some 1/2" ply with "natural" stain. Pegas #3 reverse blade.

I just came to chk out the Village today, and I scrolled doen to the bottom of the home page and saw one of my plaques. The Creature from the Black Lagoon. Thanks Travis.

Yeppers, all $10 of it! Spread that over the hundreds of feet of boards and it comes out to what, $0.0001 per brd ft? Come on stop being so negative. Just because you don't like something or want free wood, doesn't mean others should avoid it. It's up to each of us to decide what is good for our shops based on accurate information provided, not opinions void of facts. Btw, I've heard this story of blade breakage on many other forums and have yet to see a single example of a broken blade. Another old wives tale IMO. Now, if you're talking strictly of pallet wood, then I would agree there are/can be hidden metal objects which is where the metal detector comes in very handy. At the same time there are also hidden metal objects found in many trees that are cut and processed for sale. In fact I found a hidden nail in a pine board I bought from Lowes! I don't blame them, but it did make me look for alternative sources and scan every piece of wood I bring into my shop In fact there was a video posted here awhile ago of someone who broke several blades on a saw mill cutting a tree trunk. In the middle they found a fence post (or some type of metal post). Now THAT'S expensive LOL

About a week ago I did a lichterbogen with colored lights and yesterday I did the same Volker Arnold pattern with white lights. The lights can be set to a flashing mode but, I could not get a video to load. Comments welcomed. God Bless! Spirithorse

This was a good project. This is 3/4 Alderwood. Cut with a #2 Reverse tooth blade. That was a lot of turns! LOL

I would no hesitate for a moment to jump on the deal. It looks like 1992 in the photo. Same as a new one. They have changed very little if any. My go to blade is 2/0 or 3/0. I cut mostly 1/8 or 1/4 inch material. My blades never break unless I carelessly bend the blade or it finally fatigues and breaks where the teeth have been cutting. If I were younger I would purchase the 18 inch or the polymax. Worth every penny! $400 is a bargain unless the saw has been damaged in some way.

I think you could use a piece of 1/4" BBply to cut out small bearing press collars.. I don't think a complete set of collars is needed if they aren't going to be used again. I actually used a socket from my socket wrench set that was exactly the same diameter as the bearings. I also used one on the opposite side just larger than the bearing to support the piece. I picked up some side to side movement with my DW as well and it ended up being the rocker arm bearings / sleeves was worn more on one side of the bearing more than the other.. There are two separate bearings in the rocker arm at the same pivot point with one long sleeve to go through. I constantly had issues with the bearings in the lower arm at the front of the saw.. My guess for the reason is that all the sawdust when cutting seems to fall right onto the moving mechanism of the lower arm. Fine wood dust doesn't necessarily damage the metal bearings as wood is softer than the metal, But what does happen in my opinion is that sawdust absorbs the moisture out of the grease. I half wonder if this isn't the issue for your saw.. sound can travel through those link arms and make it sound like it's at the back of the saw. I used to take the front lower bearings apart about every 8-12 months just to clean and regrease. In doing so I would find the grease dry and or turned into a harden paste yet the top front of the saw was still nicely greased.. My reasoning for the thought of the sawdust dropping down onto all the lower bearings.. Same ordeal on my Excalibur until I bought the Seyco dust vacuum.. Now those bearings stay lubed up well.. I think a dust collection of some sort can serve two positive purposes.

Do you have a drill press? Not a Harbor Freight, but a good sturdy drill press like a Delta or Powermatic, etc. makes a good arbor press. Then you need the bearing press collars so as to only put pressure on the outer race of the bearings. These are available from local auto parts stores. For the side to side movement of the blade as the blade moves up and down, have you tried adjusting the set screws on the opposite side of the arms from the blade lock knobs? You can loosen the blade lock knob and then turn the set screw in or out a bit, then retighten the blade lock knob and check the blade side to side movement again. The blade should be close to the center of the table hole and not shift side to side as it moves up and down. A few tries and testing of these set screw positions may be needed to get the blade centered and running straight up and down. Blue Loctite on the set screw threads will keep this adjustment from changing, yet not lock the threads so tight that the set screw cannot be adjusted again at a later date. DO NOT use any other color of Loctite, or you will likely never be able to change the set screw positions again. If the blade moves forward and back as you move it up and down, the blade arm assemblies can be moved slightly forward and back by loosening the screws unn the ends of the upper and lower arms and then moving the short arm mechanisms slightly forward or back. The screw slots in the yellow arms may not allow enough adjustment. I had to use a round jeweler's file to increase the front to back slots in my lower arm to get perfectly straight up and down blade movement. Getting this right reduces the aggressiveness of the cut, but also helps get straight cuts in thick work. I test my blade angle and movement using a 1 3/4" block of hardwood that has been cut with perfectly straight sides, but machinists 1,2,3 blocks can work well for this too, or anything that you can place on the table with a perfect 90 deg side to table reference will work too. A small machinists square is another possibility. The edge of these can be placed on the table and near the blade to check that the blade is 90 degrees to the table in both side to side as well as front to back, and also give you a good reference line to see any angled blade movement as it is moved up and down by hand (best way is turning the motor shaft manually with no power by using a screwdriver). Charley

I think I have seen a #50 blade. It only has two teeth (not per inch, but for the whole blade). It is really noisy when you are cutting. The Hegner I have has some issues that I never could resolve. The only blades I could use without breaking were #3 and larger and then only Pegas blades. Anything smaller than a #3 would break in 5 minutes or less. I am sure it was just my saw - or me, but be sure to try out your smallest blades and run them for a while if you go look at it. Also, notice the table size - it may not matter, or you will hate it.

Alright I made this for my President of Toastmaster has a gift.

Hi everyone, just thought I would stop by and say hello. Haven.t been on in a while with all this moving. I'm finally in my new house in Florida. Still unpacking. My last pod is coming today. Still don't have my workshop set up yet to really do anything but I'm getting there. Hope to see you all soon, Ralph

A plaque a made for my wife's guild at the Bristol Renaissance Faire.

My first attempt at a pelican (JGR pattern). A bit loose on some of the areas but it's a start.

In my introduction post I mentioned I usually cut animal projects. I did complete a lighthouse project recently. The pattern is from Steve Good and I tried to be a little artistic with the painting on the backer board. I'm in NC and we have 7 coastal lighthouses. I started to try and copy one of the patterns on the state's lighthouses but decided I liked the grain of the wood better.

I'm not sure what a good deal is on a Hegner in most places.. I've only ever seen these in my area for $350+ and the ones with the up front tension release seem to always be $500 - 800+ so to me this might seem like a deal, I might see if I can look at it but thought I'd get some opinions from the Hegner experts on here first. I told my wife I need another saw because business is so busy that I can hardly keep up with only the 4 saws I have now. Not sure if she realize I can only run one at a time but it sounded good to her so I thought I'd look at this. DUH: I guess I could have showed the link, LOL https://lansing.craigslist.org/tls/d/williamston-hegner-multimax-18-scroll/7340836016.html $200 in blade is great but so far in my dealings with saws that come with blades is they are blades I'd never use.. like maybe a #50 ( do they make a #50 LOL.. Huge blades anyway.. I'm going to offer $200 for the saw and they can sell the blades to someone that can use them.

This is another Steve Good design called "Reflections." I cut it from 1/4 in sanded pine and backed it with the same material. The upper silhouette is painted black, of course, and the bottom, water, is painted blue. The front is finished with red pine Minwax and the entire piece is sprayed with several coats of poly. It was really a simple project but a lot of fun to cut and finish. Hope you enjoy.

A big thanks to Multitom for the pattern work on this one. Even with the pandemic going on he spent time to work on this pattern and send it on to me to cut. Took me a bit to get to it with stuff going on also. Here she is, did it 11 X 14 on 1/8 oaK Ply. Did two different colored backgrounds just wanted it different. Thanks again Multitom. jim

Hi to All.... I have been Scrolling All kinds of Crosses in my time, but as far as color goes Its Always the Black as a Backer.... A Good Friend got me into Color and a New Way.... Here is one of Crosses with Color. Look forward to replys. :+} Pretty sure this is a Terrence Thomas Design. Danny :+}

I can't help but to share everybody's amazing projects. I like to highlight projects on Instagram, FB, and Pinterest. You guys do amazing work.

I agree.

Thanks Ray, I thought a PM would be better than just posting someones number out on public forum was why I asked for PM

I'm new to scrolling and new to the forum. I've seen two of my projects posted in other locations. Big surprise for me also. Thanks to whoever is responsible. While I prefer to remain humble, it does make you feel good that someone felt your work was good enough to post elsewhere.

Hi I have been a Hegner owner for many years and I would check it out like octool says but at 400 dollars that is a good deal if it works ok. I paid 500 dollars for my 15 years ago and it was never used so I got a steal then. Bill

I was referring to Munzieb's photo of the paint by numbers beach scene that his wife did. It's so well done it doesn't look like a paint by numbers.

I completed this project at my wife's request as a donation to raise money for an animal shelter. I did the cutting and finished it in the colors she wanted. It is cut from 1/2 inch sanded pine with 1/4 inch backer. As my usual, I cut it with a #5 Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse. The stain is antique oak, not one of my favorites, and then finished with clear gloss.

I think underwater scene is the best variant for shadow boxes. Here is my new one, this time I added waved contour and increased size of project to 9,5 x 7,5 inch to add more details. Video of making project Sea Life pattern

Back from vacation now and saw your post. I had a similar problem with the used DW I bought when I started out this past January. My two solutions were to replace the connecting rod and build a 3-legged sturdy wood stand for it with a pad between the stand and the scroll saw base. I added retractable casters to the stand to allow easy movement around the garage. Oh, and I also cleaned all the bearings and used Valvoline grease on them. Those actions fixed my noise/vibration issues.

I have already taken that rod cover off and ground it down.. but there were no marks at all on the bottom of it. Since I hear the sounds more towards the bottom pivot arms and the rear of the saw, I'm really going with an issue of bearings most likely..

I think Seyco IS the only place where you can easily buy parts online for these type of saws. Pegas being the new kid on the block so to speak, haven't been around long enough for a "need" yet.. and I can certainly understand on the business end of things not wanting parts setting around collecting dust. Maybe there should be a website to " order " needed parts set up so at least folks could have some sort of outlet once that need arises. I also think this could help in the sales of Pegas saws and other items.. I've seen many times people asking where parts could be had for Pegas and then not really seeing any sources choose to buy a Seyco instead because parts are listed right on Seyco's site.

very nice job

A nice feet piece. Thanks for sharing and I am looking forward to your Mandela. As soon as I get back to Arizona, I plan on ordering a Mandela pattern and cutting it.

All my children have way surpassed any skill I may have in woodworking and most anything else. Instead of hem calling on me for help, it is the other way around. I am so blessed they all are willing to help us when we call on them for assistance. I love all our family so much and cherish the good peaceful family we have.

Nice piece. I am also working on a lion. Mine is 11x14. Only get to scroll on weekends but I'm hoping to have it finished this weekend. Would love to see the other project you're working on. Even if it isn't finished.

I think you'll love either saw, and I do agree that Pegas lacks in service centers and even parts sourcing.. Nobody seems to know where you go for a bearing, sleeve, or rocker assemblies.. Pegas is still new and they haven't had to deal with major parts yet.. at some point there are going to be people needing parts and no way to figure out where or who to get them from.

So.. In my research on what I want to do.. I've NEVER been "happy" with this Dewalt. It's always had some sort of noise, but now it's gotten worse. I have tried the fixes with no luck so far.. So I msg'd back and forth with Denny about the Pegas. He was nice and answered some questions I had. I decided I wanted to see about customer service.. so I called the number in the Pegas manual.. The closest I could get with them to ask questions was sales, and they had no technical knowledge, and no option for tech support on the IVR system. She said she would have one of the other guys call me that might know more about the saw.. but I have not heard back. I called Seyco, and I got I believe it was Mike. He answered my questions, and even gave me a name of someone in TN who runs a school for intarsia who has like 15 of the seyco, to see what she said about the saw.. So far, to me, Seyco has the better service. It also has the bigger table from the blade to the front. Between Seyco free shipping, and looking at woodcraft for the Pegas with shipping, the Seyco actually comes in a bit cheaper.. Seyco said they have the saws and once I order, they ship the next day... I'm really leaning toward the Seyco.. Maybe leave the DW in the corner till I get around to buying a used arbor press for the bearings and maybe swap out the bearings if I can't get it to calm down by adjusting the tension rod more.. but every time you turn it out, it gives less tension you can put on the blade, so not sure how much I can adjust that before I am out of travel. Also, with the DW, no matter how much I have tried to adjust it, not only is an agressive cutting saw, (which you can adjust on both pegas and seyco) I have never been able to get rid of a slight side to side movement of the blade either. I can put a square up on the table, make the blade dead on, but when I move the arms, the blade will either move away from a straight edge, or push the straight edge over by about 1/32 of an inch depending on the original postion of the heads in up or down stroke.

Yet another expense to add to the cost of reclaimed/free wood.

Ray, you can find the Minwax spray Lacquer at Lowe’s, or at least in Ventura Co. as far as the toner, I did a Google search and found many online sources. I used to buy the Deft spray lacquer by the box of six online at Hardware World.com. As for me, I would rather use a hardwood rather than stain plywood. That’s just me.

Thanks Jim it is beautifully done ! At your service whenever required Mahendra

The Pegas blade holders should last the life of the saw. The thumb screws will need servicing periodically as was mentioned above. The ends of the thumb screw will wear and get shiny and slippery causing the blade to slip. Here’s what I do: I take a small piece of hardwood approximately 3/8 x 2”x2”. Drill a hole just slightly smaller than the threads of the thumb screw. The hole has to be absolutely perpendicular to the wood. Screw the thumb screw so the tip just protrudes through the wood. Now, sand on a flat piece of 220 grit sand paper till the tip is no longer shiny and flat. This procedure applies to all saws with a thumb screw. I’ve had my Pegas saw for about six months now and haven’t needed to dress them yet, but I know they will need it at some point.

I have been doing some simple little things lately between other projects and have been enjoying them.

This project (set) was found on the net and unfortunately there was no name to give credit. I tend to finish my projects where the grain from the wood will show but on this project I decided to blend some paints and try to give it a desert effect. Both the front and back are 1/4 inch sanded pine, some I've had for over 20 years. It was very brittle and there were a few chip-outs in places. It was cut with a FD #5 Ultra Reverse blade. I was happy with the way it turned out and apparently the first person I showed it to thought so also. He purchased the set before I could carry them across the road to show my niece who is a horse fanatic. I hope you enjoy seeing them as much as I did cutting them.

We no longer have a beach on Pellow's Island. But we do have plenty of places to swim. Here is a photo of two of our grandchildren and I (taken about 10 years ago) at a dock near the front of the island. I've made a lot of scroll-sawn art that would be appropriate here, but will chose just one piece: This plaque measures 35 centimetres by 42 centimetres. The background and frame are made from Cherry and walnut. The foreground pieces have been made from figured maple. The basic design is by Sheila Landry. I modified the design in order to have the island a cabin simulate our cabin on Pellow's Island in Lake Pivabiska. Many many loons make Lake Pivabiska their home in the spring and summer.

Freestanding Seahorse Puzzle made several years ago.

Living in a beach community, many of our customers want beachy items. They don't really go for things with the area name in them but they do go for Sea oriented items. Some of our best customer are little ones and often know what they want and what they don't want is what their parents want them to want LOL. Here are some of our little ones most popular items (unfinished so they can color them) And one of our colored samples the kids love The adults go for other items however

My array of Beach/Nautical/Ttropical cuttings is quite extensive. Some are from way back when I had first started up to my more recent work. Most of my latest work is intended to apeal to the Beach Community here along the Atlantic Coast of Central Florida. A lot of what we call beach side home owners love to decorate their high cost homes with a lot of beachy things. This first piece was one of my very early attempts at creating a pattern and then adding color to the finished piece. This last one hangs in my living room and we call it our aquariumn:

I made this a while back. SSWW&Craft Magazine.

A couple of mine. Saw the waves in an article about Fiona Kingdon in SSWW magazine, always wanted to cut one of hers, and it looked like a challenge. Hint....it was. Viking ship was an H.Botas pattern, as was the pirate owl (cuz, c'mon, who DOESN'T need a cutting of a pirate owl?!?), picked those up from his Etsy shop. Nautilus gears were from Steve Good, working gears are always fun to cut.

I did this beach scene back in Feb of 2019 and is posted on the site. The design is based on a paint by numbers my wife did and also a puzzle. My wife converted the picture in Photoshop to greyscale. The design took quite a while because I wanted to get the beach and light house right. We gifted the paint by numbers and puzzle to good friends that live by the beach.

My most popular item with the locals and the tourists... wall mounted sea turtle key rack and someone asked for a larger version for towels/coats. Carolina Beach is the town I live in.