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I know I have seen the work of others who have done this 810+/- hole pattern called “Two Wolves by R. Beard, but this is my enhanced hand painted version. It was slightly modified to fit on a 11” x 14” backer with a 1” border. It took me 7½ hours of machine run time which equates to about 16 hours of sitting behind the saw. In addition it took at least an hour to just drill all the holes. The pattern was cut in 1/8” BB ply using about a total of fifteen Pegas #2/0 spiral blades. The cut panel was hand painted using Acrylic Art paints. Approximately another 10 hours of painting time in between drying times. About an overall three week project while doing other projects in between. The cut panel is affixed to a ¼" BB Ply backer painted with Krylon All-in-one paint and primer spray Flat Black. And, like always, the assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. (Deft vs. Minwax and others - possibly a subject for a future discussion post in General Scroll Sawing.) The custom frame is once again made from 1¾" wide poplar and finished with three coats of Minwax Pecan Poly/Stain. Wanted a light color frame for contrast with this very dark piece. Don’t forget critique of my work is always welcomed and appreciated. PS: You might be inclined to ask what happened to the cut frame that is part of the pattern. Suffice to say, things happen, but it was not cutting related. If you get a chance check out my recent post "Gonna be gone for a while." in the Coffee House Forum.

OK, got things done a little quicker than expected before we leave on our trip, so I get to post this last, at least for the foreseeable future, completed piece. This was again a free stencil image I found On-line and converted to a Scroll Saw pattern. Really, not very much conversion was needed other than adjusting the size to fit a 9” x 12” cut panel. The cut panel is 5/32” Solid Core Maple Ply and the cutting was done with Pegas#2/0 spiral blades. Just about 100 holes and used only two blades. My ratio of holes to broken blades is getting better . The Backer is a ¼” x 11” x 14” BB ply that was hand painted. Of course, the 1” border was just spray painted with Krylon All-in-one paint and primer Coffee Bean. The area under the cutting was first coated with Gesso (a White Acrylic art paint primer) and then hand painted with Acrylic Artist Paints. As the pattern is relatively simple, I was able to use a couple of copies of the cutting pattern to use as general area painting stencils. Made life a little easier for this step. I also painted some additional areas on the cut panel to help enhance the image. And, once again the assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Lacquer. In my previous post “Love Stem Roses – A different Version”, Fab4 replied that the Roses should have been Yellow or white, but we all know that Love and Red Roses go together. So, since this piece has nothing to do specifically with Love, I took his suggestion and painted these Roses Yellow. The custom frame is once again made from 1¾" wide poplar, stained with Minwax Cherry and finished with two coats of Minwax Gloss Wipe-on Poly. Don’t forget, critique of my work is always welcomed and appreciated. If you haven’t already, please check out my recent post "Gonna be gone for a while." in the Coffee House Forum.

Thought I'd share a "Duh - dope slap" moment with you in hopes it helps someone not have the same experience. . . So there I was . . . printing off a Steve Good pattern using Inkscape to make the cutting lines red. The pattern: "Baseball Teams" consists of 4 pieces - a base with slots and three other pieces with tabs to fit into the base plate. I discovered that if I turned the Printer's "Borderless" setting to "on" the pattern on the printed page is stretched 1/4". I learned this after cutting out one of the pieces with tabs and found the tabs would not line up with the corresponding base slots. It baffled me for a time until I realized the page of the base plate was printed using the printers "Borderless" setting set to off - and the other pieces were printed on a different page with the Borderless setting set to "on". It had me going for awhile, but after some experimenting I got the "Aha" (translation: You dummy!).

This is a Highly modified cutting of an H Botas pattern. I primarily cut with a #5 flat blade and drill the entry holes with a standard 1/16" drill bit so, any cuts that could not be drilled at that size either had to be adjoined or eliminated. I am still satisfied with my results and comments/critique are welcomed. Finished size is approximately 14 5/8" by 10 1/4" and I still have to get some wood for a frame. The wording "2nd Amendment" and "Right to Bear Arms" is definitely easier to read at full size compared to this thumb-nail image. The fretwork is also more pronounced in the actual project. Thanks for looking and God Bless! Spirithorse

Spill some coke on furniture and leave it there and see what happens and we drink this stuff, thx for the tip Dave, RJ

Here is a custom unique piece at the request of a customer. It's a name in Arabic. 1 1/4" X 1/3/4" x 1/4 unknown wood, probably a maple. Cut with a FD polar # 2 followed by a spiral blade. Used bits of toothpicks to support the center of the right hand letter, used superglue to attach the piece; then a light coat of superglue on all surfaces, buffed and then 2 coats of clear, gloss, spar varnish:

I have only had a band saw for about a year so I don't know much about them. My resaw blade was totally gummed up so I got on line last night to try to find a solution. Of coarse I found a lot of different opinions. Today I went to my local Ace Hardware store to find some Goof Off or something like that to soak it in. They did not have Goof Off in gallons. I asked a guy that worked there what the strongest industrial cleaner they had was. He asked me what I needed it for and I told him to clean my band saw blade. He told me that he would soak it in Coke. To my surprise it worked awesome.

The new saw is here.. I have it assembled and the blade square to the table. I find that what leg setting I put it at, it's lower than the Dewalt.. I need to drop the legs to the highest setting.. The thing I really don't like the idea of doing is drilling holes in that nice new stand to put a board so I can mount my pedal to it.. But I guess it's gotta get done. Once done, I can actually start it and see how it cuts. I thought it was great when I opened the box and saw that someone wrote a quick note to me thanking me for the purchase, and letting me know the legs are on the bottom of the box under the styrofoam holding the body of the saw.

Have a coke beside me right now, to make matters worse…it’s diet

I would second that we should have an area were we put those AHA moments. Just after I read this I was altering Steve Good's Post from today. Instead of "If Gramma is missing" I wanted to put If Tony is missing. (A good friend) I opened Steve's Pattern and drew circle and put text on circle. It was backwards. I did everything I could think of and then AHA. Took pattern and copied to a new document. Then worked like a charm. I have had this occur before. I think between Corel Draw and Inkscape something happens with the PDF. I had this before and forgot this should be done. Now I will remember. I will post when I have cut.

Interesting to know about coke and mineral spirits to clean band saw blades. I thank you both for sharing the ifra

Don’t know about Coke but, mineral spirits should do the trick.

Like a couple of other posts I sand my wood smooth and clean he saw dust off very well. Then I spray glue the back of the party and wait about 1 to 3 minutes, sometimes even longer and place the pattern directly on the wood. after I finish my cut I cut either peal off the pattern easily. If it is a lot of fret work I will usually apply a dampened rag with mineral spirits and let it sit for about 30 seconds and the pattern comes off and the fibers of ply never lift.

There are so many versions of the Corvette and you cut a truck load of BBPW cutting them all. Thought I would go for an early classic.

I have my foot switch mounted on a plastic step that is made to fold up. If I need to move it I can. Kind of hard to see it is white

Congrats on the new saw.. Those 4 legged stands are kind of a nuisance in my opinion.. LOL It seems Delta, DeWalt, and Hegner have the three legged stand figured out.. But then.. everyone has their own preference and comfort level.. I use the foot switch on the floor for my at first. I've always been used to setting tall at all my saws as the DW stand is kinda tall.. On the DW I mounted the foot switch to the bottom brace of the stand which worked well.. Then the Hawk saw had know place to put a switch so I had some 6 x 6 post cutoffs from my pole barn which worked about to be the perfect height so each Hawk has it's own 6 x 6 block with a cable staple holding the cord out of the way. The EX I set the stand as high as it would go and also use the 6x6 blocks, LOL

I honestly don't think there is a difference in bearings between the Pegas and the King, EX etc.. Why do I say so? You can download the manuals for each saw.. each manual gives the bearing "size" in the specs sheet and all numbers match.. Pretty sure Bob Duncan was blowing salesman smoke when he mentioned the bearing thing on a different forum where I read it.. BUT.. I very well could be wrong because I'm only going off the manuals.. and the Pegas manual is a bit mixed with the EX, King etc.. as some of the picture diagrams show the drawing with a EX style blade chucks.. rather than updating those photos with an actual Pegas chucks on it.. Maybe they've updated it by now.. Who knows.. Maybe someone should take one apart and verify the bearing sizes to the manual specs, LOL.. Either case, both are great saws.. Honestly don't think the China made EX is horrible so long as one expects to "need " to tinker with it and that the original bearings is only good for maybe a year or two at best.. I did use mine a lot.. I don't think the bearing issues was really any different than the DW saw I had.. I suspect the saw will last a bit longer now that I put in some better parts / grease.. but who knows maybe not. The biggest issue with the China made saw that I see is the blade chucks are pure junk.. and the sloppy threads for the arm adjustment knob at the back of the saw could use some tighter tolerances.. Not sure that's an entirely China made saw issue since I've seen this mentioned with the other versions too, loctite did wonders for that issue, others just use rubber bands or tape etc..

I got it assembled good.. I did find out when I raised the legs all the way up, the bottom 3 holes are still open.. I think I'll be able to put a board across them, put a layer of ply down, and mount the foot pedal to that.. I'll have to see how I like it..

A fine piece of work in all aspects!

I think the only different part is the bearing at the motor

Love the multi coloured backing

I really like how you are putting color not just on the backer, but on the front scroll cut piece as well. Thanks for sharing the details!

Thx Don, pm sent, RJ

Fine looking work

Here is a quick PDF that explains the process. Steve explains the process he uses to get the pattern into Inscape. Either Import or Open will work.https://youtu.be/hh4JwEjCL8Y if you have specific questions please PM. red line in inkscape.pdf

Coke is Woke.

Barb & I are coffeeholics. We buy both regular & decaf at Costco in 3lb cans. One end of the can has a pull-off thing for opening but I flip the can over and use a can opener. We put a plastic lid on both ends of the can to keep the can from scratching the counter when it is slid across the Corian. Anyway, to my point, I opened one can with the pull-off just to have a can with one end crimped and then did what you did with the 1/8" plywood.

Interesting that it will do something like that. I wish I would have known yesterday, I threw an old blade away.

Joe W, can you explain how you take a steve good pattern and put in inkscape, and then change to red lines, I don’t know how to even get the pattern into inkscape, sorry not real good with these programs, thx RJ

fantastic job, it's beautiful

Hi Joe: We should have a separate forum called "That "AHA" moment We could all learn a few things from Villagers being a bunch of "AHA's" It's always funny when it happens to someone else Thanks for sharing your AHA moment with us Fab4

I have not had that problem before as I don't mess much with the preset settings. But if I ever do what you did by mistake, I now know what to do about it. thanks for sharing.

Of all the early Vets, the older small ones have always been my favorite models too. As they got larger, I thought they Los a lot of their appeal. I know most car fans would not agree with me but that is what makes life interesting. Another beautiful car to add to your unique a d interesting wall

I love out work and the projects you elect to cut. I am in awe at the details you always make sure you do. As always, I enjoy each and every post you submit

These reminders are great. Thanks. I also found a setting to keep the object aspect ratio. It should be set by default. But it is not.

I used a 3lb metal coffee can with a plastic lid which I reinforced with 1.8" plywood on the top and bottom like a sandwich. Worked prefect until the flange on the plastic lid cracked and caused it to leak. Problem was the can was probably 20 or more years old and I believe the plastic finally deteriorated. Neither my wife or I drink coffee. I don't think coffee comes in metal cans but I don't know. If there are 3lb plastic containers they would work. I liked the plastic lid because it was infinitely easier to fabricate the lid than on the flip top canister. However both work really well.

Definitely got to find something, preferably a Delta of some kind with features similar to my P-20. I'm not sure I could talk the wife into something like an Ex or Hegner.. The search commences.. Chris

Cheap & easy wins the day. When you get that little cyclone you can mount it in a 3 lb. coffee can or look on Amazon for the flip top canisters. I used the small one, Les used the bigger one. I'm going to try the coffee can on my Hegner but if it doesn't work out I'll get one like Les's. As long as it catches the dust and is easy to empty is all that matters.

I did good using ony 15 blades for that many holes. It is the rethreading that tends to kink the small blades and then they break even if not dull yet. If I 'm real carefull and make sure I pull up on the blade each time I rethread the blade, I can get a lot more cuts done before it breaks. I have also found I don't need to tioghten the thumb screw toooo tight so the blade does not bend at the clamp. Also helps keep the blades from breaking.

Thanks. For all your behind the scenes work you do to keep the village up and running for the rest of us.

Rjweb, this is a Ryobi SC165VS 16 inch saw. Thank you Octoolguy for the link. I'll be ordering a cyclone on Monday. I know my setup looks kind of cheap-being held in place with electrical tape. I did that on purpose, so when I need to oil the bearings, I just have to cut the tape, remove the piping, and retape it when I'm done. Cheap and easy. Can't complain about that.

Agreed. I did the same.

I had used the Contact brand forever and thanks to Charles Hands suggestion I switched to the Duck brand. And have had no issues. As the others have said I also pre sand to 320 Especially if I am doing delicate fretwork. wipe of the dust to be safe apply liner, run pattern through the Xyron, put it on the liner. No issues!

You're going to love it here!

Welcome to the Village from Wilmington NC.......Enjoy !

I went out and bought a roll of Duck brand removable adhesive clear laminate. I'm pretty sure it's the right stuff. I'm going to give it a go. I'll let ya'll know how it worked for me. Thanks for the replies...very informative stuff..forrest

My array of Beach/Nautical/Ttropical cuttings is quite extensive. Some are from way back when I had first started up to my more recent work. Most of my latest work is intended to apeal to the Beach Community here along the Atlantic Coast of Central Florida. A lot of what we call beach side home owners love to decorate their high cost homes with a lot of beachy things. This first piece was one of my very early attempts at creating a pattern and then adding color to the finished piece. This last one hangs in my living room and we call it our aquariumn:

I did this beach scene back in Feb of 2019 and is posted on the site. The design is based on a paint by numbers my wife did and also a puzzle. My wife converted the picture in Photoshop to greyscale. The design took quite a while because I wanted to get the beach and light house right. We gifted the paint by numbers and puzzle to good friends that live by the beach.

My most popular item with the locals and the tourists... wall mounted sea turtle key rack and someone asked for a larger version for towels/coats. Carolina Beach is the town I live in.