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I noticed that horse projects are quite popular, so I decided to make one more horse pattern. There are a lot of horse patterns, so my main aim was to make something unusual. And here is what I made - mechanical horse (steampunk style) Video of making project Mechanical Horse pattern

Jim made the pattern and cut this for my wife. Turned out awesome. Wish I had the original pic cause he nailed it

According to Patrick Speilman, silicon on or in the tape keeps the tape from sticking together. The silicon gets on the saw blade as it passes through the tape and provides lubrication. He writes about this in one of his books, where he shows photos of cherry cut with and without the tape. The cherry burns when it is cut without the tape. I suspect that all tapes are not created equal, which may explain variations in results.

I sand the piece first to 220. Remove the dust with a paper towel, then a tack cloth. Apply clear shelf liner. Spray the back of the pattern, Wait a minute or 2, then apply the pattern to the shelf liner. Make sure it's smooth. .Then scroll away. When done remove the shelf liner with no problem I never have any problems using that method. Ben

Way to go, Ray.

Ok, here is what I found. It seems that the number plate on your saw is either wrong or it was replaced by another saw. I found this manual online and I think it's your saw. All the tensioning is done with the lever by turning it one direction or the other. mmh.pdf

That is one awesome cutting Jim did. Your wife is one lucky lady. Marg

Tack rags, tack cloth whatever. This what I use. They work just fine and I have used them for years and they never leave any residue. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001YJFYE8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought a few gross last time I purchased. I'm only using Pegas MFG #3 these days and a #5 and #12 once in awhile for separating boards. I had a skill saw 9" band saw, and I really didn't like it. When I used it, if felt "weak" and flimsy. The table was not very sturdy - I sold it for a loss and was glad to get rid if it. I don't really intend to re-saw wood for the most part but I wanted to be able to if I needed. The mill I get my wood from now will resaw anything for me free so I don't really need the saw for that. I'm hoping to use it more for quickening the cutting of some of my pieces. I use my table saw currently for getting a straight edge on the bottom of some pieces. And wall hangers I'm hoping to decrease the cut time for the bases. We'll see "Wen" it gets here <- I did a funny LOL

I'm gifting this to Jim for his veterans fund raising. He has done so much for me I wanted to give back. Hes a great man and mentor.

This was my weekend project. This is for a friend of mine.

I have only had a band saw for about a year so I don't know much about them. My resaw blade was totally gummed up so I got on line last night to try to find a solution. Of coarse I found a lot of different opinions. Today I went to my local Ace Hardware store to find some Goof Off or something like that to soak it in. They did not have Goof Off in gallons. I asked a guy that worked there what the strongest industrial cleaner they had was. He asked me what I needed it for and I told him to clean my band saw blade. He told me that he would soak it in Coke. To my surprise it worked awesome.

Good Afternoon, I'm new to the forum and was hoping someone may be able to help me with some questions on my new (old ) saw. I was recently given an older 20" Craftsman scroll saw model 137.226.200. It is working but the saw didn't have a manual with it and the owner admitted that he had never used it and wasn't sure how to adjust the blade tension and switch the blades. After searching the internet I have not been able to find anything on this model. Even Sears doesn't offer it anymore. Would anyone have one of these saws that would be willing to copy the pages in the manual or explain how to adjust the blade tension and changing blades? most of the saws I have seen adjust from the rear. Any Help would be appreciated ! Best Regards dad roadie

OK, got things done a little quicker than expected before we leave on our trip, so I get to post this last, at least for the foreseeable future, completed piece. This was again a free stencil image I found On-line and converted to a Scroll Saw pattern. Really, not very much conversion was needed other than adjusting the size to fit a 9” x 12” cut panel. The cut panel is 5/32” Solid Core Maple Ply and the cutting was done with Pegas#2/0 spiral blades. Just about 100 holes and used only two blades. My ratio of holes to broken blades is getting better . The Backer is a ¼” x 11” x 14” BB ply that was hand painted. Of course, the 1” border was just spray painted with Krylon All-in-one paint and primer Coffee Bean. The area under the cutting was first coated with Gesso (a White Acrylic art paint primer) and then hand painted with Acrylic Artist Paints. As the pattern is relatively simple, I was able to use a couple of copies of the cutting pattern to use as general area painting stencils. Made life a little easier for this step. I also painted some additional areas on the cut panel to help enhance the image. And, once again the assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Lacquer. In my previous post “Love Stem Roses – A different Version”, Fab4 replied that the Roses should have been Yellow or white, but we all know that Love and Red Roses go together. So, since this piece has nothing to do specifically with Love, I took his suggestion and painted these Roses Yellow. The custom frame is once again made from 1¾" wide poplar, stained with Minwax Cherry and finished with two coats of Minwax Gloss Wipe-on Poly. Don’t forget, critique of my work is always welcomed and appreciated. If you haven’t already, please check out my recent post "Gonna be gone for a while." in the Coffee House Forum.

WOW!! Beautiful job!! Love the coloring. Awesome work!!

that is one of the most beautiful peices i have ever seen!! I love roses and maybe next spring i'll try planting some again. spike has a bad habit of mowing anything that dosnt have a fence of some sort around it ...maybe i'll try t roses next year instead of bushes....a small fence around t roses wouldnt look bad. Thank goodness my climbing roses are large enough to see!! although i need to get a trellus up for those... been looking for a nice trellice pattern....the winterfield collection has a nice angle one...actually thats really the only pattern iv seen for one.....best do a google search

#25-28…..these have been popular

I never bought into that either until I did a clock project for SSWWC. I was cutting the hands for the clock in Cherry which is notorious for burning (pitch pockets). I ran out of tape on part of it and this was the result. the burned area had no tape. I Never use packing tape. It is a pain in the butt to remove, and as others have said if you miss a piece and you will, especially on fretwork, it will screw up your finish. I currently use only the Duck brand clear Removable, shelf liner.

Such pretty white rags, I bet the stain doesn't come out of them.

I have used these in the past. I cut them in half and they lasted a long time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YZVRVTY?pd_rd_i=B07YZVRVTY&pd_rd_w=GJaaW&pf_rd_p=ee186ce0-6bf7-4893-85b9-f3368b019e0f&pd_rd_wg=8d5p1&pf_rd_r=D0E4SASAXY6DRD4V5274&pd_rd_r=2dc0a6b2-afc6-4b34-9fe5-6b38b121fc32 Earlier this year i bought a 5 pound box of rags on Amazon. That's what I'm using right now. Either one works great. https://www.amazon.com/Arkwright-LLC-White-Cleaning-T-Shirt/dp/B08FVCQ9TP/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Box+of+rags&qid=1626841648&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSEtPVkRPMjlYQzNDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODY2NTQxTlRPNFUxOERQVDhYJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyOTg4NDMzOFVNWFZUV08wUFpVJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I never used them for woodwork but if you have a local auto body shop supply around you'll find some good quality ones.. may not be cheap though.. also if you ever need sanding paper.. autobody shops don't mess around with cheap junk usually.. at least that is my experience in my area.. One weekend years ago I needed a tack cloth for a car I was painting. Autobody supply shops not open on the weekend, so I went to a local big box store and bought some.. Those things are junk.. like you said.. very sticky, they left a sticky residual on the car and ruined my paintjob.. Not fun having to sand down and repaint a car because of a cheap tack cloth.. I will say also you don't need to "press" on them.. just lightly glide the cloth across the surface and it'll pick up dust etc. like a magnet. As they pick up more dust they obviously get less tacky / sticky.. then you can press on them some.

Don't really have to put it on top of the pattern, it can go on the bottom side of the pattern, Also if you are one to use shelf liner.. OR shipping labels, most any self adhesive products have the chemical in it to lube the blade.. at least that is my understanding of it.. I happen to use both shelf liner and shipping labels.

As always - incredible! Thanks for sharing your work even though it pisses me off LOL - so talented!

I have that air cleaner as well - no issues so far. I also have a Wen 10" drill press I am very happy with and my first scroll saw was the 2910 (I think) Wen which i still keep under a table LOL They shipped the Wen already so it should be here by the weekend

I jut found it troublesome as the sawdust got under the tape and obscured the line. I thought I had burnished very well but perhaps not enough. I have lots of packing tape so may try it again on some compound cutting. That's where I tried using it before and got frustrated.

That looks like a pretty nice saw. I have a couple of Wen products and so far, I'm very happy with them. I did have a problem with my Wen air cleaner. It has a remote control and every once in a while, it would turn itself on and run while I was out of the shop. For God knows how long. Anyway, I contacted their customer service and they sent me a new board and remote for it. No questions asked. Except for proof of purchase. Their customer service is as good or better than any I've come across for the last few years. Let us all know how you like it.

Never have blade problems. I have a 9" HF band saw. I had a cherry 12" band saw. Older one with cast iron table. Was like new. I thought I would try re-sawing. Without a planer it would be useless. I seldom used it so I sold it last fall. My 9" is a workhorse for me. $125 well spent several years ago. I bought it for pen blanks but now use it every day for cutting miscellaneous things for scrolling. Very handy. Sits next to my scroll saw. I'm sure you will enjoy the Wen equally as well.

Every now and then I fine a blade that seems to start out dull but not very often. Though I buy enough blades to last me a long time. Usually 3-6 gross at a time. I haven't ordered any blades since April.. and probably won't need any until late fall. You didn't mention what brand of blades in question? I stared out with a cheap 9" ryobi bandsaw and upgraded the guides etc.. but in very short time I learned the resawing wasn't all that practical on it since the max. height was only about 4-5 inch.. did work great for resawing with a good blade though and I made many thick boards into thinner boards for ornaments. I upgraded to the Grizzly 14" Anniversary edition and bought the riser block etc. I love the saw but honestly I don't use it as much as I thought I would. Resawing is a great way to make lumber to your needed thickness but also requires a planer if you don't have one yet? I think this WEN might be a decent starter saw for you. Not sure if it will accept a riser block or not. Maybe you don't plan to resaw with it as you didn't really mention the use of it. I payed pretty close to that price for my saw but with the added goodies ( riser block, rolling base, etc. ) I had close to a grand into mine.. Wish I had gone a few bucks more and got the larger model that included the rolling stand and already had the 12" resaw capacity.. But mine works well for the stuff I've done with it.

As far as band saw I have been looking for a while all brands and models, but have not thought of wen brand, will be waiting for your review on it, RJ

Tried the blue tape thing once, really didn't care for it, I use clear shelf liner and glue the pattern to that, haven't had any problems since. I gotta say I really don't understand how the adhesive lubricates the blade, I just can't wrap my head around that. Seems to me like it would increase the friction the blade creates. Chris

#5 is what I use. I have never used skip tooth but I think they should do fine. I am not familiar with superskip but it reading the specks and it should be fine too. I am a die hard Flying Dutchman and when I have hard wood I usually use a #5 Polar. Recently, I had some had some cherry and I found the #5 MGT worked well. Not a Pegas fan as I find them aggressive. I am a believer that the best blades are the one you get used too. In all cases I wrap with box tape.

I would say that the packing tape layer is not necessary. The masking tape should provide a similar benefit of blade lubrication.

Top notch cutting, and the wood on the frame is a great choice!

Toom 1 month as chemo wouldn't let me cut more than half hour at a time

Nice piece. I'm sure you didn't run into the shop and "knock that out." I imagine it probably took 15 or 20 minutes.

A big thanks to Multitom for the pattern work on this one. Even with the pandemic going on he spent time to work on this pattern and send it on to me to cut. Took me a bit to get to it with stuff going on also. Here she is, did it 11 X 14 on 1/8 oaK Ply. Did two different colored backgrounds just wanted it different. Thanks again Multitom. jim

They look great! I love the colors! I definitely need to start using more color in my projects. Thanks for sharing!

Well, after getting caught up on my orders I took a better look at the EX-21 and found the issue to not be a bad bearing or sleeve, but rather a mistake on my part during the rebuild last fall. Turns out there is a difference in the length of the sleeve, not by much but enough that the sleeve wasn't getting pinched together enough to tighten it all down good. I ended up having to use my original sleeve, luckily it wasn't too bad of shape. That would be one more difference in the China made saw too then.. Kind of baffles me how it ran good like that for as many hours as I run the thing.. I didn't run it much after putting it all back together and tuned again.. but what little I did run it, it ran really well again so.. Yay..