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  1. Tbow388

    Tbow388

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  2. scrollerpete

    scrollerpete

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  3. savethebeer

    savethebeer

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  4. smitty0312

    smitty0312

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/22/2021 in all areas

  1. Tbow388

    Attitude of Gratitude

    Cut this out for a friend of mine. It was challenging to keep the cutout whole!
    14 points
  2. I had an older saw that worked the same way. When the lever is up, you turn it to adjust tension and then you flip the lever down to lock it in.
    2 points
  3. Travis

    LOVE Farmhouse-Style Sign

    Step 1 I'm using 1/4" Baltic Birch Plywood. I get mine on Amazon and they come in 12x12" panels. I'm ripping it to 5" wide. So total, it's about 12"x5" Step 2 I like to pre-sand my plywood before scrolling. We have to sand it a bit later anyway, so you could skip this step if you want. I'm only doing 120 grit. Step 3 You'll need to tape together your pattern. Just hold it up to the light and align your two sheets together and tape it. Once taped, I applied it directly to the plywood with spray adhesive. Step 4 I took it to the drill press and drilled some pilot holes. I like to approach the line in the corners, so I try to get my pilot holes near that. Step 5 Then we take to to the saw and start cutting out our pattern. My go-to blade is a #3 scroll reverse blade. There is a lot of waste area, so you can easily notch out the sharp corners. Step 6 Once everything has been cut out, I spritz everything down with mineral spirits. It softens the glue and you can easily pull the pattern away. Then I wipe it down in case there is any glue residue. Step 7 I'm using a 2x4 and cutting them into 1/4" strips. It doesn't have to be exact. This provides lath/shiplap style strips that are 1/4" thick and 1.5" wide. Length just needs to be long enough to cover the back of your sign. Step 8 Since I want a rustic/farmhouse style, I want to age these strips. I use a rotary tool and roughly soften and gouge the edges. I don't want it to look perfect. I want it rough. Step 9 I painted each of the strips in pinks, purples, reds....ya'know, Valentine colors! I just use the cheap craft paints you get at the craft store for less than $2 each. If you want to order some, here's a nice set. Step 10 With red craft paint, I painted the inside of the letters. I'm not too concerned if it gets on the front of the project because we'll sand off that paint in step 13. Step 11 With some 120 grit sandpaper, I sand away some of the paint on the lath strips. I just want to expose some of the wood on the edges and rough it up a bit. This gives it a nice aged and distressed look. Step 12 With some wood glue, I adhere the strips to a backer board that matches the sign we cut out. (12"x5") Step 13 Again, with 120 grit sandpaper, I give the front a sanding, mostly to clean up the messy paint job. I only want the inside of the letters to be red, not the face. Step 14 Pour yourself a coup of tea. I'm using black tea to add some color and and splotchiness. This gives the strips an aged look. The tea back broke open for a bit, so I let some of the leaves just sit and dry. Then I brushed it off after. It adds a nice touch. Step 15 Back at the scroll saw. I just cut off the pieces that extend beyond the backer board. Step 16 I'm using wood glue to glue on the sign to the backer. Don't get too close to the inside of the letters. You don't want to have to clean up any glue squeezeout. I used clamps to add some pressure, but you can set a big encyclopedia on it (do they still make those?). Step 17 For the frame, I'm just using butt joints. I think it looks nicer for farmhouse-style projects. I'm using Oak because I like the wood grain. I painted it red, because....Valentine's day. But you can use whatever you have on hand. Step 18 Now to clear coat it. Any clear acrylic spray would work here. I prefer Deft Wood Finish, though. I pick it up at Fred Meyer's, but I'm sure you can find it locally too Not as common as Krylon or Rustoleum, but certainly not obscure. I'd choose a satin finish. Step 19 Add a wall hanger and sign the back. Then you're done! Final
    2 points
  4. I buy Olson blades in gross.. well the #2/0R ones at least.. I find like one out of every 20 or so may just not cut when I put it in, or it cuts on an angle for some reason.. I have an old Delta 14" bandsaw. I use it to resaw all the time. I buy 5/4 stock, and depending on what I want the thickness to be for the final, I can get 2 or 3 slices out of a piece. Normally I only get 2.. Since my jointer is only 6" and I do a lot of 8" wide stuff, I buy boards that are 5-6 inches wide normally. I cut them to a length, clean up the edges, then I rip it to just over half the finished size I need. I resaw the piece, then run it through the planer to get 2 parallel sides. I then rejoint the matching edges, and when I glue it, I get book matched pieces. I find they make the best looking pieces to cut.
    2 points
  5. Jim made the pattern and cut this for my wife. Turned out awesome. Wish I had the original pic cause he nailed it
    1 point
  6. FrankEV

    A Bunch of Yellow Roses

    OK, got things done a little quicker than expected before we leave on our trip, so I get to post this last, at least for the foreseeable future, completed piece. This was again a free stencil image I found On-line and converted to a Scroll Saw pattern. Really, not very much conversion was needed other than adjusting the size to fit a 9” x 12” cut panel. The cut panel is 5/32” Solid Core Maple Ply and the cutting was done with Pegas#2/0 spiral blades. Just about 100 holes and used only two blades. My ratio of holes to broken blades is getting better . The Backer is a ¼” x 11” x 14” BB ply that was hand painted. Of course, the 1” border was just spray painted with Krylon All-in-one paint and primer Coffee Bean. The area under the cutting was first coated with Gesso (a White Acrylic art paint primer) and then hand painted with Acrylic Artist Paints. As the pattern is relatively simple, I was able to use a couple of copies of the cutting pattern to use as general area painting stencils. Made life a little easier for this step. I also painted some additional areas on the cut panel to help enhance the image. And, once again the assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Lacquer. In my previous post “Love Stem Roses – A different Version”, Fab4 replied that the Roses should have been Yellow or white, but we all know that Love and Red Roses go together. So, since this piece has nothing to do specifically with Love, I took his suggestion and painted these Roses Yellow. The custom frame is once again made from 1¾" wide poplar, stained with Minwax Cherry and finished with two coats of Minwax Gloss Wipe-on Poly. Don’t forget, critique of my work is always welcomed and appreciated. If you haven’t already, please check out my recent post "Gonna be gone for a while." in the Coffee House Forum.
    1 point
  7. Hi, Steve, The photo is a bit small for my old eyes and pixelates if I try to enlarge it but, I am almost certain there is a knob on the left side of the blade. With the lever on top of the arm in the UP position If you turn that knob (on the left of your blade) counter-clockwise, it will loosed and you can remove the blade from the top blade holder or blade clamp. There will be another knob on the bottom of the blade which works the same way. Once you remove the blade, you insert a new plain end blade in the bottom clamp and tighten the knob. Now you can insert the blade through any fretwork you are cutting and put the blade in the top clamp, turn the knob clockwise to tighten it and that is what holds the blade in the clamps. Theoretically, if you tension the blade by turning the lever clockwise and then lock the lever down, you can then release the lever, remove the blade from the top clamp at the same heigth that you had it in originally and lock the lever down again and the tension should be set. That is in THEORY ONLY. I would release the lever and turn the lever counter-clockwise when you want to go from one entry hole to another, insert the blade then lock the lever down and gradually turn the lever clockwise until the tension is tight. It is not necessary to put a lot of force or tension on that lever. Once it is tight, it is ready to cut. Please let us know what you learn as you go. I looked for the model number you listed and kept coming up with a mitre saw instead of a scroll saw. God Bless! Spirithorse
    1 point
  8. You could try contacting Rick Hutcherson. He has a collection of scroll saws from vintage to modern. Also, check under the lever for a bolt or screw. It seems I've seen things made to lift the lever, adjust a screw, the close the lever. Good luck! Aren't older tools with no manuals fun?
    1 point
  9. Hawk

    Scrolling on the go

    been looking for a little over a week now. This is going to take longer than I thought. So many people trying to sell scroll saws that are junk for a premium price. I looking for something in a 16" model, enough to keep me busy and I can save the harder stuff for the P-20. Chris
    1 point
  10. Thanks for the reply and for supplying the download ! The saw in the download is different than mine but looks to have the same type of blade mounting hardware and tension lever. I'm going to compare and see if these instructions will work. I'm hoping it's a decent saw. If anyone has or has had this model and would give me some ideals if they found it to work out for them it would be great. It does seem to have a lot of vibration while running, even at slower speeds. It had been sitting for several years so I'm not sure if I will need to do some lubrication to it. Thanks Again dad roadie
    1 point
  11. jesse

    LOVE Farmhouse-Style Sign

    Very nice job.
    1 point
  12. BINGO, Its a two for one cut. I do that a lot when it comes to letter things.
    1 point
  13. I had a Dremel 1800 scroll saw that you turn the tension lever to adjust the tension and to "apply" tension you flipped the lever over. I think this saw is the same principal.. On my Dremel the rod at the back was nothing but a piece of maybe 1/8" flat stock and held onto the arms with roll pins.. No bearing or nothing.. not even grease, LOL. Anyway as the holes in the flat stock wore out I continually had to keep turning the adjustment lever until I could no longer turn it any farther.. Then I started cutting blades with some side cutters, LOL. Finally broke down and bought a new connecting rod is what they called it I think.. worked like a charm for another 6-8 months and then the same thing.. Next time it wore out I made my own flat stock.. but again it wears out.. Just a poor design in my opinion.. I repaired it one more time and ordered a new DeWalt from Grizzly and as soon as the DW was set up I put the Dremel on Craigslist and sent it to someone else, LOL
    1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. WolfmoonCT

    New Seyco

    The new saw is here.. I have it assembled and the blade square to the table. I find that what leg setting I put it at, it's lower than the Dewalt.. I need to drop the legs to the highest setting.. The thing I really don't like the idea of doing is drilling holes in that nice new stand to put a board so I can mount my pedal to it.. But I guess it's gotta get done. Once done, I can actually start it and see how it cuts. I thought it was great when I opened the box and saw that someone wrote a quick note to me thanking me for the purchase, and letting me know the legs are on the bottom of the box under the styrofoam holding the body of the saw.
    1 point
  16. WolfmoonCT

    New Seyco

    Yeah.. not sure why, but I use my left foot, even though I'm right footed normally. Feels natural to me.
    1 point
  17. WolfmoonCT

    New Seyco

    So far here are my thoughts on it. Blade tension on the #2/0 blades out of the box works great. Cutting another of those I'm not Arguing signs, it's cut perfect with no blade break of slip. The 90 degree angle on the dust blower.. I don't like it. I don't like how it wants you to put it in front of the blade.. then you can't see the blade. I prefer to blow sideways, so I'll probably remove it at some point. The little connectors that make up the hose are VERY stiff and difficult to adjust. The magnetic bullseye mat for it.. Don't like it. It sits nice, but when using it, the wood doesn't spin as nice as bare metal. I won't be using it. The stand is nice There is very little vibration at 3/4 speed and it's soooo much quieter than my DW was. (I have not tried cutting higher speed yet, and probably never will, not for what I usually cut) Bare metal top.. still doesn't feel as slick as my DW top. I did spray it down with some Bostick Glide Coat. It looks like the top has a protective finish on it, but I put it on anyways. Overall, I enjoy the saw. Not sure how much I will tilt it, cause I don't usually cut much bowls, but I have done the Sheila Landry self framing plaques, and for that I will have to tilt it. Watching the Steve Good review on the saw, his saw (though a prototype tester) came with 2 stops so that when you tilt it, you can set it back to 0 without using the engineering square, and you can set a stop for any degree you want to.. so like 20 degrees if you do a lot of bowls. Here is my pedal attachment.
    1 point
  18. A Most Excellent job!!
    1 point
  19. simply stunning!!! your wife is indeed a lucky woman
    1 point
  20. Many thanks for you devotion to this site and all the work you do.
    1 point
  21. I read I believe on this forum that it is the substance on the outer surface of the tape that prevents the layers from sticking together on the roll that lubricates the blade.
    1 point
  22. WolfmoonCT

    New Seyco

    I got it assembled good.. I did find out when I raised the legs all the way up, the bottom 3 holes are still open.. I think I'll be able to put a board across them, put a layer of ply down, and mount the foot pedal to that.. I'll have to see how I like it..
    1 point
  23. After seeing Smitty's puzzles, I knew I had to make some for my 3 yr old great granddaughters. One has her birthday tomorrow, and the other is in a couple of months. They are both from 1/2" Baltic Birch with a 1/8" BB backer. The colors are craft acrylics and they have a coat of clear gloss poly over everything. I cut these with a #7 blade so the letters are easy to get in and out. The font is Herkules. Tom
    1 point
  24. Rockytime

    My Fretwork Clock

    It's finished. Perhaps I should post this in the bragging section but since I started here I'll post it here. Travis may wish to move it and that's fine with me. Went together well. There are things I will do differently on the next one. I have 2 daughters. I immersed each piece prior to assembly in BLO. I used plain old Elmer's white glue. Worked well. Sets up fast and is strong. At least strong enough for this application. 1/8" cut with 2/0 Pike jewelers blades. 1/4" cut with 2/0 PegasMG blades. Lots of pieces with straight edges I cut on my table saw and Dremel table saw. I need to do a complete overspray but not sure what I will use. I did not keep time on the project. Too many interruptions. I think wood was well under $100 including shipping. Some wood was for other projects.
    1 point
  25. My array of Beach/Nautical/Ttropical cuttings is quite extensive. Some are from way back when I had first started up to my more recent work. Most of my latest work is intended to apeal to the Beach Community here along the Atlantic Coast of Central Florida. A lot of what we call beach side home owners love to decorate their high cost homes with a lot of beachy things. This first piece was one of my very early attempts at creating a pattern and then adding color to the finished piece. This last one hangs in my living room and we call it our aquariumn:
    1 point
  26. My most popular item with the locals and the tourists... wall mounted sea turtle key rack and someone asked for a larger version for towels/coats. Carolina Beach is the town I live in.
    1 point
  27. Hi to all, Yes I did return ! I'm really hoping to be able to learn to use the saw and start making some things for the Grand Kids . Thanks to everyone that is trying to help me with this . The saw (see attached photo ) does not have an tension adjustment in the back. I have been able to find that this saw was sold by Sears around 2000/2001 and was made by Rexson . If I understand correctly I adjust the tension by turning the lever in the front. Once the tension is adjusted I would flip the lever up to change the blade. The saw is suppose to be able to use both plain and pin blades. Right now a pin blade is installed. I'm hoping to be able to switch to plain blades. I'm hoping that some one may have a manual or the saw to help me to figure out the procedure to do this. Again thanks to all . I'm looking forward to be able to post some projects one of these days! Best Regards dad roadie
    0 points
  28. Looks like he turns the knob, then when he flips it back it tensions it. Turning the quick release prob changes the length the knob is screwed onto a tension rod.
    0 points
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