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I had some leftover epoxy from making a charcuterie board, so after receiving the latest scrollsaw magazine I decided to try the leaves. Pieces of scrap walnut and cherry and here is my result.

I got it done. I think my problem was I though my cutting skills were not good enough for the great pattern I got from TD. Then I got it in my thick head to go slow and follow the lines. this is what I got. Thank You TD for the great Pattern.

A Couple of my newest cuttings. The VW is from the Library, I made a promise to myself I would not forget the maker, Sorry I did. The keys I think the spider is a Steve Good, the other 2 are mine just altered Steve's The centers glow in the dark. Going out to my favorite flea market in the A,M, hope to have some luck, this is Tenn's Tax Free wknd. Keeping my finger's crossed.

I like simple, easy to repair, durability, precision, good customer support...... Hegner!

I’m thinking about selling my old 1993 Hawk 220VS. This saw I gave $100 about 5-6 years ago. I did add needed parts $50 for upgraded front tension cam with the new style BM series front nose and blade holder. In un-needed parts included upgraded to the flexible air blower line kit $20 and also since the saw only had one lower blade holder barrel I bought 2 more so additional $40. Used the saw for a couple years until I found the 226 Ultra. Used it all last summer to give the other saws a break and at one point started making some squeak sounds that turned out to be the sealed bearings in the arm that connects the lower arm to the motor so another $12 in parts. I’ve put a total of about 400 hours on the saw. Runs great but is the older saw that has the problematic motor but I’ve never had any issues with the motor. The saw is a 1993. The saw does have a weird blade angle where the blade doesn’t go completely strait up/down but once you touch the wood it cuts strait, made about 200 puzzles with it last summer and every puzzle piece is square and go in both from the top and bottom so it’s cutting square. What is a good price to start out with? I don’t need to sell but also don’t need the saw. The upgraded tension system would work on either of my other two saws but taking this part off make the saw unusable and more of a parts saw in which not much else would work on the other saws.

Haven’t made anything in a while but just managed to get this one finished,H Botas pattern of one of the best actors in my opinion made using 1/4 in BB A4 plywood sheet with black mount board using a #2/0 spiral blade then made an oak frame for it thanks for looking

I’m actually working in the shop on making a T set up for my homemade set up right now. I’ll have to wait until I take a trip to town for some pieces I need.

ok. how about a micro drill unit near the blade. And longer micro drills for 1 inch wood at 45 deg angle. You can use the same table, and not have to go to a drill press and set table again.

I stand corrected. You wanna come over and play GI JOES or something? lol

so no one mentioned dust control.

can’t figure out how to buy that saw. Sometimes you just gotta say screw it and take one for the team. Lol

your awesome!

I like easy to repair, durability, precision, large table, adjustable blade aggression, and poor customer support... Hawk! Who needs parts when they're so simple you could make them with a hunk of aluminum and a belt sander ( redneck style )..

Thats how those scroll mate saws from ps wood are. Simple, built likr a tank, effective, low low maintenance, powerful, reliable, backed with customer service and affordable parts on hand. And a 1 inch stroke that also provides full control at any speed. But you must have the stand as the motor is mounted below. I am gonna stop by advanced machinery next week and look at some Hegner saws. Its on my way. Its gonna be my giant ball of yarn stop. Im very excited about it.

Think that knob is for the storage drawer

Oooh its only $300 doll hairs! Wonder if you can actually get it or not. Im gonna play with the website see what happens!

Interesting to see what is important to others.. and how many are just happy with the saw they have etc. I think something else that would be interesting is if everyone could "try" each brand of saw just to hear their comparisons on them.. Many folks have only had one saw or maybe two.. and have not had the luxury to try other saws.. I see lots of folks on the FB groups that love their Harbor Freight or other very low end entry level saw.. I'm not knocking those saws as they do serve some folks very well for their expectations. After using the Hawks for several years now, I'd have a hard time going back to a DeWalt, not that the DW is a bad saw it's the luxuries of the Hawk that make one realize how nice it is to have a saws upper arm just go up on it's own.. Even the Excalibur is a bit of a pain in the behind to have to "lift" the upper arm up to change to different holes etc.. The small luxuries you get used to and then go back to a saw where the arm has to be lifted up OR like the DW where you have to lift it and either hold it or prop it up or buy a lifter / jim dandy easy lift etc.. Guess I'm spoiled but I'd have a hard time going back to one of the old saws I've had in the past.. and to think now about how the DW was such an upgrade to the saw before it, LOL They're all good saws.. just some are the difference from a Ford Pinto vrs a Crown Victoria LOL

Did this as a present for my in-laws and added some wood burn

Sent you a PM Kevin Ben

Great job,it’s a nice pattern and you did it justice very well done,that’s the way to do it slow and follow the lines I love it

Kevin, the MetroVac looks like the Seyco unit and the one I have works great with a t'd setup.

I found a way to upgrade the dust collection on those so they don’t suck your work down and its much more quiet. Once I get everything on mass producing them to sell Ill let you guys know. But one thing on those saws is awesome with the dust collection. Compound cutting it sucks the dust from top and bottom when you cut. I use a foredom dust collector I got from Seyco and there is also a remote switch you can stick on the leg of the ex models. Its very quiet and even with a cyclone system on low it hs plenty of quiet power. It is pricey though. Worth it.

Since I replaced my blade hold downs with the Pegas mode, I'm pretty happy with my Excalibur 16. Since I do a lot of fine detail cuts, I rotated the motor to minimize the aggression (bite) of the blade. I'm not ready to jump up to a 21" or 30" throat saw. My 16" addresses most of my projects but there are times that I wish I could rotate the blade head 90 degrees for longer cuts.

When you adjust that back screw for the knob do it until it catches just barely. If you tighten it too much you will damage your saw. I read it in the manual a few years back when I had to adjust mine.

Jim made the pattern and cut this for my wife. Turned out awesome. Wish I had the original pic cause he nailed it

Thanks for the tip Kevin. I'll check it out. No, the barrel clamp still allows the blade to go all the way through. At least the one I just bought from Home Depot does. I just set the barrel on the edge of the scroll saw table and insert the blade to let the table set the depth of the blade if that makes sense. Then I lightly tighten it to start. Then I use the built-in opening on each side of the saw to tighten it the rest of the way. That makes it nice for left and right handers by having it on both sides. That is one of the irritating things I had to put up with on my old RBI. To tighten the blade in the barrel you had to use the left side of the saw on the RBI. I'm right handed. I really have no problem with this saw. I do have 3 new barrel clamps on order. I'll let you and others know if they solved that problem. I agree, the hole should not go all the way through.

This 18" Jet saw is a dream to use Kevin. I do have arthritis. I like the barrel clamps. I've been using the barrel clamps for nearly 30 years on my old RBI so it's not a problem with me. I just purchased 3 more extra barrel clamps for the Jet to keep loaded and ready to go. The upper clamp is really nice. It just takes seconds to change the blade. All the controls are up front. It is just a top quality saw made in Taiwan. The fit and finish is excellent. I have 2 other Jet products that are made very well. Did I mention the excellent built-in dust collection. A life saver for me. I have found one thing irritating so far. The upper arm does not stay up when you lift it. I'm guessing something just needs to be tightened a bit. I hope that's all it needs. This saw was ready to go out of the box. I just inserted the blade, squared the blade to the table and started cutting on some scrap pieces. It cut perfectly. Disclaimer - For all the top feeders on here you will not be able to use this saw in that fashion. Sorry. Ben

Check with Kevin (kmmcrafts) he sells quality clock inserts, RJ

Yeah, that’s kinda my thinking. These old Hawks in my area are on Craig’s List for 300+ But in my mind I wouldn’t pay that much for as old and the known problematic motor these have. The issue for me is I do know it’s a good saw “right now “ but moving it and jarring it around to the next home anything could go wrong. It’s old . Was used hard by the original owner and well worn when I got it. I took a chance on it at $100 . Then I got 2-3 years of use out of it. It doesn’t owe me anything but at the same time it’s a dam good saw and I don’t want to just give it away for a $100 either. But would really feel bad if someone paid a couple hundred and all of a sudden had issues with the motor or controllers that these old saws are known for. This would be a $400 ish saw if it had the better motor. The motor issues is what holds me back from even selling it. I just keep using it for the last couple years even though I’ve said I was going to sell it 3 years ago when I got the brand new Hawk.

This is all beautiful work. But Linda on the SSWWC found a picture of the design. Now finding the pattern will be another challenge.

As many of you know I have a Hegner 22V Multimax that I have made some modifications on to make it more user friendly. My dream saw would be the same saw with factory improvements that include; larger table, rack and pinion table tilt, more upper arm clearance, cam arm style blade clamps, and onboard efficient dust collection. The thing is as long as we are dreaming might as well dream big right? Oh I also think the original color is fine they should just use power coat paint. LOL

Well done for certain.

With all you put into it, and it is still running great I myself would ask at least $200 If I lived in Mich, close to ya, I would shell out $200 real quick for that saw. But I,m in Tn. Yea $200 at least. Beautiful saw.

They are terrific. Hope you did well at the flea market. Marg

Les, I just typed theartfactory (I’m using an IPad) in search and it came right up. Perhaps your anti virus is blocking it.

@SCROLLERNATION Actually I did in my long book of a post I did in the first reply.. Like the 4-5th paragraph.. I mentioned a lot of people take off the dust blower and hook up a vacuum.. Maybe incorporate that into a new designed saw.. though it'd be pricey to have on board vac system..

Not yet! Im surprised too.

Here is a little more info on it.. https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/saws/scrollsaws/harbor-freight-26-scrollsaw-65406

Push start fiat lol. I got a dewalt for my dad and out everything on it. He didn’t like it. It has a real aggression problem this one. The only saw I hve not tried is the new Hawk but that about to change. I still want a G4 too because thats been a dream for a while now. On my 30” KXL i adjusted that arm holder so it barely catches. I really love that saw but hate pushing that arm up. 10 hours later your done for sure. I wish the King I have had a bigger front part of the table and the old tension system the first purple excaliburs had. Those were cool and I liked the purple. I gotta show you this saw....

For the most part, the nozzle doesn’t clog up. The adhesive builds up at the nozzle opening. I simply wipe off the nozzle with my thumb after every use. I used to soak them in mineral spirits but I don’t need to anymore now that I routinely wipe it off.

Mine would need to be vibration free and support top feeding.

This is another free downloadable stencil I found and converted to a scroll saw pattern having only 31 holes. The pattern was sized to fit a 9” x 17” cut panel. The cut panel is 5/32” Solid Core Birch Ply (not BB Ply), cut using Pegas #2/0 Spiral Blades. The backer is 1/4” x 11” x 19” Solid Core Mahogany. The backer is hand painted under the cut area using Acrylic Artist Paints. The cut panel also has some areas hand painted with the contrasting light Pink Acrylic Paints. The panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The stencil was in B&W but I was able to find many similar images of the Pink Panther that showed me the colors to use in this presentation. The Frame is 1 3/4” wide Poplar that was stained with Minwax Natural stain and then coated with two coats of Minwax Clear Gloss Wipe-On Poly. Decided to leave it Natural since the grain in this piece of Poplar was very nice, without the typical dark greenish coloration often found in Poplar. Was able to get this completed in only two days before having my knee surgery tomorrow (7/29). Comment and critique is always welcome and appreciated. I'm thinking this piece will be part of a wimsicle series, along with my previous "Cockerel", if I find some more to do.

I would like a 30 inch Original Hegner, super quite, With all the bells and whistles a scroll saw could have. Red White and Blue.

I had that problem with 3m 77, I could stand on my head but still cluged I switched to 3m 45 no problems, RJ

Actually it's Cloe and Cooper. Many thanks to Russ Beard for the great patterns. These are my daughter's miniature Yorkies. 1/8" pre finished BB, #2/0 Pike blades.

Very nice!

That is awesome, certainly photo like. Well done. Marg

great job

Great cutting of a truly great actor.

Nice work DanJ84. I agree, one of the best actors out there.