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Here is one of my absolute favorite projects so far.

IMHO, spirals are a blade designed for a very specific purpose and not necessarily intended or suitable for most general scrolling. I can't imagine trying to use a spiral on anything over 1/2" thick. For my tastes, even 1/2" is a bit too thick. Neither would I use a spiral to do traditional fretwork, such as a clock or a box. Spiral blades are great for portraits or patterns without a lot of straight, smooth lines. Yes, they leave a rougher edge than straight blades do, but with the type of patterns and materials they are best suited for, it really isn't an issue. Spirals will not handle like a flat blade. The most common complaint about them is that they are hard to control. That's because most people try to cut with them like they would a straight blade. It takes a little practice and a different touch, but they really aren't all that hard to use, once you understand how they work and what they are best used for. I don't use them all that often, but I've never really had much problem controlling them. I can switch back & forth between straight and spiral blades within the same project without issue. The blades are designed to cut in any direction, so they will wander in whichever way you apply pressure. Use that to your advantage, rather then fight them, trying to make them cut like a straight blade. Once you figure it out, a whole different world of scrolling opens up to you.

I am fairly certain that spiral blades are intended to give rough cuts. I use them where rough cuts are the effect that I am looking for. This is the case in "artistic" fretwork that depicts something like a scene or an animal. I'm attaching photos of a couple of pieces I did in order to show what I mean by this:

I have tried them several times but they leave rough finish and are harder for me to control so I just gave up and use nothing but flat blades they hjave done me for the last 50 year's so why learn anything new at the age of 82. IKE

You are correct, the spiral blade does leave a rougher vertical surface cut. This roughness can be minmized if the movement of the work is kept steady. Stoping and restarting can make the roughness signigficantly worse, although the prudent use of the blade to shave cuts can also minimise this visable roughness. Although the cut by spirals is rougher the cuts do not show start and stop, or change in direction, marks, that are often very noticible with with flat blade cuts. Panel thickness can also make the roughness more visible. In my opinion, spirals are more appropriate for thin panel fretwork although they do well cutting thicker panels if care is taken to minimize stopping and restarting. Pattern design and subject can also result in the roughness being more or less visable. The roughness is not very easily seen in subjects like feathered or furry creatures and can sometimes even enhance the cutting. Roughness or wobbles in smooth long cut line patterns will definately be more visable. For the smooth long line patterns I have found there is sometimes the need to clean up cut lines with rotary tool (Dremel) burrs to smooth out the roughness/wobbles. Now, the real question is, where are you viewing the cut roughness from. Under the mag light? An arms length away? Or from the recommended 4 or more feet away, properly backed and displayed in a appropriate maner. In my opinion, if you are observing the roughness of the cuts in any than the final viewing location, you are doing a diservice to the scroller and blaming the the blades for something that has no real negative impact on the final product.

Hello friends, I show you this work. It's honestly not my idea, I saw it in google images. I copied it and did it. Hope you like the idea for your feline pets LOL Greetings to all and thanks in advance for your comments.

Barbara was a guest at one of our scroll saw club meetings, several years ago. She did a short presentation on their products for the benefit of our members, all of whom were from Western PA, but only a handful were familiar with PS Wood products. We all had seen their ads in the scrolling magazines, but very few knew they where located so close by. Anyway, I recall that she was very nice and knowledgeable about all things scroll saw related. She said that they used to do a lot of trade shows and the scroll saw picnics that used to be very popular within the scrolling community. I recall she said that they don't do much of that sort of thing anymore. I really should make it a point to take a road trip down there to check them out in person.

Yeah, kind of look like toys.. in fact when I seen the one at the estate sale I at first thought it was a kids toy until I went and took a closer look to see it was actually real, LOL

Ben and Ike, on the 13th of this month I will have made 83 trips around the sun, but back to the subject at hand. I started this hobby back in 2005 with a Dremel scroll saw and a book about scroll sawing and self taught myself how to do this great hobby! All the book said about blades was the different sizes and did mention the spiral blades for use if the project was larger than the space between the blade and the rear of the saw. Not knowing any better and with no one around here that did this kind of work I ordered some spiral blades and choose a portrait pattern of Merle Haggard and the blades were cutting like a hot knife through cold butter! Not knowing that a spiral blade was impossible to control, I cut numerous portraits and sold nearly everyone! This tells me it is a mind set of hearing that about spirals, a person will set down at the saw insert the spiral and thread the blade through the entry hole, turn on the saw and start on the pattern all the while that nagging part about uncontrollable is in the brain and off you go! Actually you are not controlling the blade just as you are not controlling a flat blade, what you are controlling is the material you have the pattern on! As with a flat blade if you need to make a turn you turn the material, with the spiral you don't turn the material, you guide the material into the blade. Granted, if you are more accustomed to the flat blade and go to the spiral, you will have a new learning curve of not turning the pattern but moving the pattern lines into the blade and not turning the material. Erv

It’s adorable

Just wanted to pass along that I have used Duck brand shelf liner on 3 project and it has worked like a charm. I'm liking it better than the blue painters tape.

Puzzle guy, Could you take a couple of pictures of the saw with closeups of the bottom and top clamp areas. The vibration issue, Being a 4 legged saw. whenever I move my G4 26 (2005) I have to kick the legs a bit until all four are solidly planted on my not so level floor. But it may still have a spot in the speed range where it may vibrate. I was never happy with the plastic lower clamp retainer and the replacement from Bushton was not flexible so I made my own from some beryllium copper.

What type and thickness of material and what spiral are you using? I do find they aren't quite as smooth cutting.. especially the larger numbered ones.. I rarely use anything but a #2/0 in the FD NS ( Flying Dutchman New Spiral) style blade.. Pegas spirals are good blades but to me they're more brittle or something.. they seem to break much easier and the spirals in general seem to break easier anyway. Also if I do use Pegas I jump up a size.. instead of a #2/0 I use a #1. Pegas blades seem to run a bit smaller than the others. I think the Olsen blades seem a bit harder to control and are a bit more aggressive.. A lot also depends on the saw set up.. All the inside cuts on this truck was done with a spiral.. I did move to a regular blade for the profile cut. This is like 5/8 -3/4 inch Pine. Done it with the FD-NS #2/0. After I sold this piece and needed to make another I switched to Poplar and I now cut it with a flat blade then go over the veining with the spiral to widen the kerf.. Much faster cutting it twice like that and looks much better even though I don't feel this looks bad it's not superb either. Almost all my portrait work shown on my web site is done with spirals.. typically always stack cut 3-5 pieces.

the demonstration doesn't really show it very well and in that demonstration the saw seems loud and its not the room is just empty and small and the camera microphone picks up everything. There is a better video out there but the person operating the saw lets the wood chatter a bit. It doesn’t show the release and tension process though. I will post the video on here. Its more realistic on noise level. And the camera is mounted directly to the table so you can see how smooth it is. Eventually your gonna have to come visit and play with it. It has its quirks for certain stuff just like every other saw. But thats why you buy one of each kind and a couple back ups lol

I spent this afternoon with another scroller. Hi is the person who purchased my 216VS Hawk. It was an interesting visit. Clayton has six scroll saws. 2 - 220VS Ultra Hawks, 1 - 216VS Hawk, 1 - Excalibur, 1 - 14" PS Woods, 1 - 21" PS Woods. I did a little cutting on both the Excalibur and the 21" PS Woods. Both are remarkable saws. The Ex is nearly totally vibration free. A beautiful machine. I also had the privilege to use the PS Wood saw. It is phenomenal. I would call it an industrial rated machine. Heavy, heavy. It is built like a tank and like the Hegner and Hawk it is a simple machine. It has a large table and I was impressed with the belt change system. It is easy and foolproof. Changing belts is a breeze and it cuts like a dream. At $799.00 with free shipping and stand it is a bargain. Had I known about the machine when I first started scrolling I would have purchased it immediately. I am surprised that it is not more widely used. I'm sure there are Village members out there that use one but perhaps just don't lit be known.I almost get the idea they are sort of considered like a Yugo. They are not. I also looked at two of his saws with the mirror tables. Impressive. He waxes them which lessens the shine slightly but the wood introduces small scratches which makes me decide not to do it to my saw. Plus it takes him about four hours to do it. I don't have time or energy. I also used the PS Wood blades. A #5. Very smooth cutting. Finished cut is very smooth, just like a sanded finish. He gave me a dozen blades. I'll put them to use for sure. In all it was an enjoyable afternoon. BTW he even cuts sheet metal with the PS Wood machine. He cuts out an elephant, spot welds the big ears and welds two small rods to it for placing on the garden or lawn. Of course that's me at the PS Wood machine.

Can anyone tell me the pattern designer as my wife found it on line and I can't read the name on it.

Well, my Wen 3966T finally arrived yesterday! Last night, the wife and I put it together - well actually it was mostly already together, we just put the legs on, the table and attached the accessories. This is a very interesting saw for the price $741 no shipping charge from Amaz! It has quite a few options the more expensive saws have, but for 1/2 the price! 2 speeds, nice dust port as well as a dust drawer when the port is not connected, easy raising of the upper blade guard, LED light, circle jig, full cast iron table, reversible fence, miter gauge, 100 3/4" blade comes with 3/4" can take from 1/8" up to 1". I used it a bit this morning, cut a few small pieces. Seems to be already tuned. I did however, have to purchase the Wen mobile base, well didn't have to, but figured was worth my time not to make my own and focus on using and getting comfortable with the saw. I also ordered a new 1/8" blade $17 so I can do tight curves which is primarily why I wanted this, Here are some pics - sorry some are blurry as my hand is shaking more these days and the tripod was inside. Full saw - it's on a dolly at the moment, so it may seem a bit high Came with a push stick and you can see the guide rail - not a bad one for now Guide rail and base - 2 speeds adjusted from inside the bottom using the drive belt Nice cast iron table, easy to raise and lower the upper guide for larger/higher wood pieces Came with a circle cutting jig as well The reversible fence is a bit wonky, but easily usable for now And an LED light out of the way unless I want it, can reach around to the front easily That's about it for now Thanks as always in advance for reading - sorry about the blurry pics

I've been working on this project for about a month. (I only get to work at scrolling about a day or day and a half per week.) The wood is from a discarded table and is MDF with veneer on both sides. It is 3/4 inches thick and very heavy. The piece is 11 x 14 and the pattern is from "Grandpa." (Thanks Paul) I cut it using Pegus MGT #3 and #5 and also some FD #5 UR. I finished it with natural oil and gave it a half dozen coats of clear gloss. I chose this piece of wood because I thought the dark and light grain in the veneer was unique but now that the project is finished I wonder if I made the right decision. The picture makes it appear to have a rough finish but it is actually very smooth. My wife works for a school and the mascot is a lion. She has already claimed it as her own and she is happy with it. I guess I should just remember the old saying, "Happy Wife, Happy Life!"

Hi again to all. First I wanted to thank everyone that tried to assist me with the older 20" craftsman unit. As luck would have it I was able to trade this saw to the friend that owned the Black & Decker BT4000 scroll saw that I had borrowed and used in the past. Both of us are happy with the even trade. I really enjoy the new saw . I do have a question about lubrication of the arm bushings on the Black & Decker BT4000 . In the manual there is no mention of doing this. Also it appears that the saw would be very difficult to take apart to accomplish. Would anyone own one of these models that might be able to answer the question? The saw has very little vibration and I really like the ease of changing blades. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. Regards dad roadie

That Buffalo is part of my themed projects. I have finally acquired a Moose pattern for #4. Awesome job cutting, it's not easy with all those direction changes. Cutting speed is the answer.

I tried using spiral blades, not much luck. Maybe it's just me but when i tried to use them they left a very rough surface which I don't like, so I gave up. Plus i can't control them like I can with regular blades. From what I see with some folks that swear by them I do see rough surfaces also. Is a rough surface normal using a spiral blade, because mine certainly were? Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Howdy ya'll.....I have a couple of quick questions on how to finish this project. ( if you type gnome in the search box you will see that Barb has a picture of one. ) It is going to sit on front porch and will be in the shade. I cut mine out of 1/8 bb and painted all the pieces with a triple coat of rustoleum 2x rattle can paint. I'm going to clear coat them and I have 3 different products to choose from. minwax fast dry poly, rustoleum 2x ultra cover, and krylon triple thick clear glaze. They are all rattle can and all semi gloss. Does anyone here have an idea as to which clear coat might be best. Also, I have some Titebond 111 and I wonder if I need to nail the letters to picket or if glue would do the trick. The picket is western red cedar and has been sanded to a smooth finish. Thanks in advance for any and all replies......forrest

Pictures? Ahhh! Never mind. I did as you suggested and now see what you are talking about. For any kind of wood project outdoors, I'd say varnish is the best way to go. I built a redwood gate and did about 4 coats of marine spar varnish on it and it held up very well.

25 inch Hegner

I had the chance to get one of these 14" saws at a estate sale for $60 on a stand about 4 years ago.. I kick myself for passing that deal up.. But at the time I wasn't impressed with such a small saw.. also that the tension lever is at the back of the saw.. Not that you can't reach it on such a small saw.. but every saw I've owned has had all controls at the front of the saw.. Just didn't think I could get used to that and I would have spend $80 on a large paper weight, LOL

SO... Is it a BM series saw or not? Does the lower arm protrude out through the angle adjustment or is the end of the lower arm sit back behind the tables angle adjustment? IF you have a BM series saw there is only one manual for the BM series.. it covers both the 220 and 226.. These started production around 2012 I think.. maybe earlier than that.. I think Bushton took over around 2008 - 10 ish.. ? IF the saw is only 8-10 years then I would say you have a BM series saw.. OR at least the highest serial number 220 Ultra saw manual.. I don't know what the 20" models looked like back when the G4 26" saw came out.. did they make a G4 20" saw? I have not seen one.. Regardless seeing some pictures of the saw would help in deciding what model you have.

He’s around. I didn’t get a picture. I asked. But look how little this 14” is

Thats Barbara. She is super nice. Thats a little room lol Thats why its so loud. They showed me how they make blades and stuff there. Very very nice people. Very detail oriented as well. And organized.

I'm 81 and i like your reply. LOL

It's probably just me. I'm too picky.

Great Job on that one!

Frank, that came out great. My granddaughter would love that.

That looks good.

That one came out great.

They look great. I think I like the black background also.

Here's mine Tbow

That guy doesn't seem to know how to hold the wood down... that isn't the video I seen.. I had to go search for it but this is the one I seen.. she explains and shows blade changes..

Good looking saw. Let us know how it cuts!

Ill see if I can take a picture with him and the team or something. Make it less awkward.

thx for the info, keep us posted after using it a while, RJ

Great job on them both. I am always the odd man out, I like the darker stain with the red.

Great Job.

Okay, I may have slipped up. The wife decided she was not happy with it and took over the project. As much as I like the contrast in the grain and agree with many who have commented that the lion looks like he is peering through slats with a ray of sunlight across his face, the wife did a fantastic job with her finishing touches.

Hi Rodney: I kinda like the look of this one - He's hiding in the shade with the sun coming through Well done, so put your tissues away and be proud of this one Fab4

A very beautiful box, Frank. I really like your explanation of the construction. Red Oak was perfect for this one.

A beautiful box and I happen to like things like that made with red oak. I am sure your wife loves it.

Thanks for the help Kevin ( your a great guy ! ) I see where the tag should of been- theirs two holes on the right front side the tag in the back ( for blade list has a '05 copyright symbol ), kind of an odd saw -looks up an upgraded saw -the one trunion in the back has a hole drilled -which they cross sectioned , the base was repainted ( guessing at factory ) I think either a refurb or a return - the tag for the serial number is clean -no rivited serial number was ever on it , but as you say maybe a sticker ( which is gone ) - im tying to figure out its date of manufacture to download the appropriate manual and parts list - I have to work out some vibration problems - guessing legs or some inbalance in the saw - ( i expected it to be vibration free -which will never happen on a parallel armed saw ) Nothing is as smooth as my Eclipse but i bought it used -i expected some problems - maybe a future saw for my son ( whos not a full time scroller )

I use 3/4" most of the time for desk clocks, some toys, and now a few puzzles. Makes sense to cut the profile with a straight blade and the veining with a spiral. I don't do portraits. I'll give the FD-NS #2/0 a try and see what happens. I really don't expect much though. LOL.

No they are not going to sell.