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The plans came from Scroller Unlimited. ( I hope I got their name right). I just finished a 3d picture of the Last Supper, the table and figures are cut from 1/8" birch plywood and stained with diluted craft paints. I copied the back ground from the famous painting of the Last Supper. I used Pegas 2/0 reverse tooth blades to cut it.

Here is one of my absolute favorite projects so far.

Let's start an assisted living home for scrollers. What a hoot.

I believe it was his brother, Hans that passed. I used to enjoy speaking German with him. We used to tease each other about the Hegner VS Hawk. He was a true gentleman.

The new Hawk and the Ultra seem to go up about the same amount... The old 1993 220VS goes way up.. come to think of it.. I'm not sure if it has the bolt in the back that acts as a stop.. maybe that's why it goes up so high.. It's really nice on those really large projects if you feed the blade from the bottom.. Maybe I should keep that saw, LOL..

Would we remember what we are talking about, whose machine is whose, where the blade goes....??

Hello friends, I show you this work. It's honestly not my idea, I saw it in google images. I copied it and did it. Hope you like the idea for your feline pets LOL Greetings to all and thanks in advance for your comments.

8x10 1/8" BBply #1 Spirals No finish yet.

The one and only WEN tool I have has served me very well for the past 10 years and I've never needed customer service.. so I guess I don't know how the customer service is.. It's a Belt / Disc sander.. I did however after about 5 years have the thing loose power.. I mean barely set a small block of wood on it and the belt would stop or almost stop.. I took it apart thinking the drive belt was bad.. once I got the covers off, the pulley fell off and dang near gave me one of those custom blue toenails, Never did find the set screw but put a new one on and been good since.. The sandpaper ran too close to the edge as well and sanded a tab completely off the belt guard that had the screws to hold the guard on.. so that also fell off one day possibly by user error? LOL.. The auto body shop skills came in handy with having a old Ford Taurus trunk lid laying in my scrap metal recycle bin repaired that buy me cutting a chunk of sheet metal off it and forming a new guard and using the Lincoln Mig welder to weld on some tabs that couldn't get hit by the sandpaper and grinding / sanding away the screws and tabs.. I think it just needed some American engineering to make it a great sander.. which it is now.. as I made it Ford Tough...

lol no. No modifications! I’ll live. The only saw i have that pops up violent is my ps wood. When that arm comes up look out!

I keep telling you don’t get rid of it. lol you will miss it. I just hope with those long arms on my 26 itll go up high. I like that with the blade coming forward its easier

Who cares? We'd just be having the time of our lives.

I guess I lucked out and purchased (one of their demo models) that was the perfect saw.. Makes me kind of wonder....

I didn’t buy one. There was a ton of really nice rebuilt ones but I couldn’t make up my mind what I wanted. Too many cool choices. They even hd 2 25” saws, a Hegner lathe, an Mk4, TSW230. Tons of fun stuff. There are just a few things about the Hegners that I forgot about which is why I haven’t bought any and went with the Hawk, EX and scrollmates.

You are right, Les, It is great.... I visit and communicate with three... Always a great time... but I have also run into scrollers that shy away or just aren't interested in meet and greets... Very disappointing. Especially being I live in an area where scrollers are few and far between... My closest scrolling friends are 40 miles away.... well worth the short travel to get together...

This was my weekend project. This is for a friend of mine.

Yes a lot of saws actually do not require and service.. they want you to break it then buy another one.. Some of us will take them apart and put new bearings and grease in them.. A lot of the older saws that use a brass bushing / bearing don't need lubed.. they use a special lube that is mixed in the brass when they make them that is self lubed.. so they don't require anything.. other than every so often they might need another one of those brass bushing / bearings again.. I looked up the model yesterday when I seen your question.. and I am not familiar with that saw..

Hi to All, I went down to do some scrolling and looked at the saw again. Is it possible that some saws may not require lube on the arms? I do not see any way to get access. Thanks again! dad roadie

But, like all Fords, it probably runs hot! Lol.

Hi Frank, thank you ,I do like using my spiral blades now I use them for nearly everything I do nowthank you for the tips I appreciate it I love the advice from the forums on here everyone is so helpful,every day I learn something new .As they say “every day is a school day “.once I have got some more wood I will definitely try your suggestion .

It's not the point of liking, it's the need. I now have 3 saws. A 29 year old RBI Hawk, a 9 year old Excalibur,, and a 1 month old 14" Jet. All work perfectly and I use all 3. I like a lot of things. I just don't need them. or can afford them. One final comment. I have never operated a Hegner, so I have no idea if I would like one.

Making the arm on a Hegner raise higher is an easy modification that a few of us here have done.. Yes, @Rolf, now that you mention the name... it was Hans that passed. He was a great person to talk with,,,,even in english..

Can always take the stopper bolt out and it'll go way up.. just don't hover over it and get a tooth knocked out if a blade breaks, .. Not a big fan of drilling holes in saws, especially new ones.. but you could drill the hole lower and install the stopper bolt so the arms comes up higher if needed.

Having had a RV and currently a 5th wheel TT I totally understand where you're at with this.

Its a little more loud because of the phone. It is almost as loud as an old Delta 40-601. IMG_4736.MOV

I've replaced a bellows on an old ac motor hawk. But only one so far because its good rubber. And one scrollmate because it hd been sitting for a long time. The new hawk arms dont go up as high as my ultra series?

Sort of like Rv's. The designers have obviously never RV'd. It takes a woman to design a kitchen and bathroom. The guys should design the driver's compartment and outside storage bays.

I'll be one of the first ones there!

Never understood why they make those bellows out of that goofy rubber/plastic stuff.. I see most used saws needing that piece.. I see Hawk list the bellows for their saws for $10.. I've also never ever heard or seen of anyone having to replace one on a Hawk.. They are listed in the parts on their site so I'm sure people buy them.. It's just not very common like on the Hegners.. Hegners are dam good saws.. but I do feel they could improve on a lot of things.. as can Hawk.. Hawk in my mind would be quite a competitor to Hegner if they had good management for the company like Hegner does.. If I owned a Hegner I'd have to buy stocks in Magnifier light bulbs and lenses.. My older Hawk upper arm goes up higher than the other newer Hawks. I've broke two bulbs and cracked a magnifier lens from that arm when a blade broke.. Not sure why Hegner designed that front tension lever to stick up 3-4 inch above the arm, Was always kind of curious if the designers of scroll saws ever used one..

Heres saws that are demos, trade ins and repairs. Fun stuff!

A couple saws started off fast then slowed down to speed. Couldn't get them to run smooth like I remember the Hegner I used to borrow time on. And forgot about what a pain the lower blade clamps were because you have to line up the blade and pull out slightly so the screw doesn’t twist it out of position and believe me it really does. Another are the parts. The clamp system stuff just seems outdated. Yea they paved the way to revolutionize the industry but you need 3 different sized blade holders $25 a pop to hold all the blades you would use from 2 to 12. If you want a quick release for the blade its an additional $35. Bellow should you need to replace them are $45 and more plastic than rubber. There are not two risers in the back just one. I could not find a sweet apot on the saws and the tables are still tiny. Even smaller now on the 14” than the older version. The 25” and polycut 3 had bigger tables though. I may buy one just to have it around to make videos with for others to see. The polycut 3 was a disaster when it came to changing speeds lol if anyone decides to get the polycut 3 to blast out puzzles all day it will totally crush it day in day out. It is violent and i would bolt it to the floor for sure

That Buffalo is part of my themed projects. I have finally acquired a Moose pattern for #4. Awesome job cutting, it's not easy with all those direction changes. Cutting speed is the answer.

I'd sure love to attend any scroll saw get together but here in So Cal, it's just not something that anybody does. I think it's because we've become too much of a melting pot here and there's just no interest in woodworking. Not sure why.

Hawk on here had the pattern.

Here is a new in box one..https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/312045027375084/?ref=saved&referral_code=null I don't remember if this model has the lower blade holder as the quick set ll one, or the one that takes the special allen wrench thing.. The model I would look for that I know has both top and bottom blade clamps as the Quickset ll is the Delta model SS350.. Those are good saws.. had one for a couple years.. Problem with these old Deltas is that most parts are no longer available..

Needed to take a break from doing framed, flat panel portrait work and make something different. I have had this Side and End wall bird battern for a very long time and have revisited it often. It did include the base pattern, but there were no patterns/details for the top or bottom. I had to design them on the fly. The box is nom 12” wide by 8” deep and 4” high. I really did not realize how large the box was until I began to assemble it. Since the box was quite large I decided it needed a divided drop-in tray. The box outer walls, base, top and bottom is solid red oak. The red painted wall backers, inside box bottom, inside base top and the inside box tray supports were made from 1/8” BB ply (cut from my cut-off scrap pile). The tray was made from 1/4" Red Oak solid core ply and has a depth of 1 1/4 inches. Because I did not realize the size of the box, I was forced to purchase a 6 foot length of Red Oak 1” by 12” (3/4” by 11 1/2“) to make the top and bottom. Big $$$$$. The available 2 foot long boards at Lowes were not quite long enough as I need 26 inches. So I now have a nice 3’-10” length left for another future project. I planed the bottom down to 1/2”. For the top I rabbeted the bottom perimeter 1/4"deep so the top has a lid keeper that projects into the box. I sanded a small round on each corner and I used a small ogee router bit to put a decorative edge all around the top and bottom. Everything was finished with many coats of clear gloss Lacquer after which I lined the tray and the lower box with red felt. A very sticky job as I was using contact cement. I'm contemplating installing some small hinges as the top is heavy and will be cumbersome to remove and replace during use. I’m attaching a few pics as it is hard to show all the detail in one. Feel free to critique my work. . Edit 7/3/21: It was requested I post pics with the hinges installed. I was able to mortice the hinges into the box and lid to get the lid to land flat on the box. The lid does not need a hold open device because of the lids overhang.

Great cutting on that one. looks like a lot of detail.

Great job and one of my favorite patterns.

Very nice

It looks great, well done. Marg

awesome job

Those damn 2/0 spiral blades do such a good job once mastered. And I think you have done just that. Very well done. The frame does a great job making it a very well done finished piece. Just something to think about. I have gone to using predominately 1/8 or 5/32 thick ply for the cut panel which I mount onto a 1/4 thick backer. I find this to be visually more appealing as the viewer dose not see as much of the vertical cut surfaces. The 3/8 assembled panel is very stable and mounts nicely in a custom frame.

The Frame is Excellent. Your Cutting is Just Down Right Awesome!!!

Likewise. I'd love to talk shop with other scrollers. I frequently eat at a particular restaurant which has a couple of nicely scrolled items on their walls. I was introduced to the two persons that did them I tried striking up a conversation with them but they were not particularly interested in a conversation. There is a turning club in Denver but have no idea if they do other things and I no longer drive long distances or evenings. I spend more time with bikers.

Which one did you buy, LOL Just curious why you say you don't like the Hegner as much?