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I've always 'cut' as a hobby. Something to keep me entertained through my retirement. I've usually cut whatever took my fancy. I enjoy seeing 'something' appear out of what is essentially a plain piece of wood, it gives me lots of pleasure. However, I was asked to do this for a friends wife, but, not only that, I was told on Saturday evening that it's her birthday on Wednesday so would it be ready by then ??? I've cut a 'simpler' version of what was required. I must admit though that 'rushing' to get it cut/glued/oiled/varnished. was not enjoyable. This picture is what I've done today, and the pieces are just resting on top of one another. I now have a tremendous respect for those that do this for a living. Cutting to order and working to deadlines is not for me. I take my hat off to all those 'workers' out there. !!

Just finished another great pattern from Steve Good, Flying Eagle. 3/4" thick White Oak finished with Danish Oil.

Most of probably saw this pattern that Steve Good published this morning. My oldest granddaughter who is 3 has decided that spooky things and Halloween are the absolute best so I got to cutting after my cup of coffee. Now I need to determine how to paint this up for Shiloh so it can go on her bedroom wall. Cut on my Pegas with MGT#3 blade except for using a spiral blade for the veining. Be blessed. ADDED the painted version

The saw in the picture is my version of Jack Metcalfe's frame saw as shown on his book on Chippendale marquetry. The saw consists of two rectangular frames made out of 3/4 baltic birch plywood (using pocket holes). Between the two frames there is a set of two bog-standard drawer slides that serve as linear bearings. One of the frames is stationary and is clamped to my workbench in my basement shop via a horizontal member that is screwed to the stationary frame. The other frame holds the blade and moves up and down. Pushing on a pedal (a short length of 2x4) brings the frame down. A lath of white oak acts as a spring to bring the frame back up. Right now I have a small piece of 1/4" plywood screwed to the horizontal member serving as the saw table. I should make a better version, but I am having too much fun playing with it as is. In this version, the throat of the frames is 26". I.e., the maximum size of the piece can be no more than 13". The frames can be made larger, of course. The blade holders are from an outfit in Barcelona that I bought a few years back when I was visiting. I think I could make equivalent holders with in my shop with some work. Tension is controlled by the big wing-nut on top of the upper holder. It is designed with marquetry in mind: i.e., to cut a few layers of thin veneers using a skinny blade. It might work for 1/4" bbp using a #3 blade, but I have not tried. Features: The blade moves strictly vertically. (For some definition of "strictly") One can use a lot or as little of the blade as one wants on each stroke One can control the speed and length of each stroke independently, which is great for tight turns Sawing goes goes surprisingly fast Quiet Vibration free Very light and easy to store as it doesn't have its own stand I feel much more in control using this saw than when using my Excalibur, even at its slowest speed. I haven't yet, but I think I could use this in my kitchen or dining room and not scare the horses. xocd

It was worth the stress,,, that is a great piece.. I don't like cutting something that is requested even it there is no dead line!!

Hello friends, the next job I did not do with a band saw, since I do not have that machine. To make the figure I used 3/4-inch pine wood with my old scroll saw and blades No. 5 I really wanted to make my lamp and it was quite an experiment and surprise that it cut well with wood of that thickness. Thanks in advance for your comments and greetings to everyone!

Dragon is about 8x10 from about 3/16" thick cherry.. Cut with Olson #2/0R blades, with a ply baker. The sign is about 7x9 made from 1/4" ash with a ply backer. Cut with Olson #2/0R blades. I forgot where I got the dragon from, but the sign is from Sheila Landry Designs.

I have never had that problem, but if I did I would without hesitation send them back with a letter.

Got this pattern from library by Neptune made out of 1/4 inch BB plywood A4 in size using a #2 spiral blade 2 coats of danish oil a spray of clear lacquer and put in a shop bought frame with black mount board it’s a present for my brother in law not my cup of tea lol but he likes skeletons skulls etc so I think he will like it ,thanks for looking comments welcome

I want to thank @Jim Blume for the great pattern. I used 3M 77 spray glue to attach 1/8" BB to 1/4" BB backer. Frame made of poplar and stained Minwax black along with the backer. My first fret work project in quite a while.

Yes, but I need both hand for moving the wood, and both feet: one to treadle and the other one on the floor so I don't fall off xocd

Looks pretty darn cool. I would love to see a video myself.

Let me first get a tripod mount for my phone. xocd

I tried to contact them on Friday to let them know how disappointed I was with their packaging. I may hear from them on Monday. I'll let you and others know what they said. You have to go to this page and use their mode of communication. They do not have a actual email address that i could find. https://cherrytreetoys.com/contact-us/

You did a great job. Your friend and his wife will be thrilled.

Very unique and very cool. Marg

Now that's different. I like it.

Nice. I have the same one. Kevin cut it out for me.

I wanted a quick project to try out my Hegner so I whipped this out. From a Steve Good pattern. I asked him to include a palm tree for me to fit our "beach" decor. Sadly, the brand of tissue that Barb uses is an oddball size box. Who knew? Puffs is about 1/8" bigger in one direction. I'm still lacking in knowledge of staining. I wanted it darker. Oh well...maybe next time it will fit and be the right color.

That looks great.. I cut it but didn't do the stand, wanted it to hang on the wall.... I cut it in black walnut... I like the oak you did better...

I had to dig an old can out of the trash and put on my reading glasses to read the small print, but on the back of the Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac spray can, under the USES section, it states; "Because Spray Shellac is 100% wax free, it can be used as a sealer under polyurethane and other finishes." As I said earlier, if you are using the liquid pre-mix, choose the Zinsser SealCoat. It is de-waxed shellac. The liquid shellac that is called Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, contains wax and should not be used as a sealer if you intend to top coat with polyurethane. To summarize; Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, in the spray can = De-waxed Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, liquid pre-mix = contains wax Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat, liquid pre-mix = De-Waxed

Very, very well Done! Every one of us needs to cut this pattern and stand it on our desk. It is a beautiful piece, patriotic to some degree and shows off our hobby/talent to the umpteenth degree. I have it on my to-do list, just keeps getting pushed back as other projects seem to jump in front of the line. I wonder how many have cut this piece? Maybe we can get a headcount as we get replys to you post.

it's beautiful, terrific job

awesome job

My latest project - horse and horseshoe, each consists of 3 layers, project size 7,5 x 8 inches Video of making project Horseshoe pattern

I did this carving from Maple last fall and used the water base poly.. about three coats.. then just spray painted the whole board.. sanded the top surface back to the wood color and top coated with a couple more coats of the poly.. Pictures kinda suck but you get the idea.. running the orbital sander on it with the holes for dust collection in the papers.. got caught on the points of some of the stars and broke them off. I might just stick to what I know with this project.. and use the water based poly but instead of spray paint I think I'll hand paint with small brush for less sanding / clean up. Because I need to get it finished up and out of here.. Just wish the water based poly made the grain stand out at you like a oil finish does.. either way I think the customer is going to love it no matter how I finish it up..

Unicorn spit that's a new one for me, I had to look it up. Still not exactly sure what it is but at least I know now I won't need to go find a unicorn and try to get it to spit in a container, . In the past projects I've done I just used spray paint and after it's all dried good I just sanded the surface and whatever is carved the paint stays.. But I have seen where some will use a artist brush and try to keep the paint from going on the main surface. I think I'm going to try painting it in with a brush like that.. might have to look into the unicorn spit a bit more.. most the sign makers on the CNC site use acrylic craft paints or some use the house paint as I mentioned above also have a few using spray paints like I have done in the past.. but boy that can be a mess if you don't get a real good covering of seal coating on it.. and never try it without a seal coat of something first.. especially on red oak... don't ask how I know that one, LOL Anyway thanks to teaching me about unicorn spit..

Kevin, when I made the ringbearer box for my son's wedding, I stamped the date into the lid and then filled the letters with black Unicorn Spit. Used a very fine brush and only had minimal clean up to do. Now, I understand stamping the letters probably broke the capillary action of the grain preventing and wicking. Picture was shot before I put the final semi gloss lacquer coats.

That is quite a collection. You have been very busy.

Some may remember a special offer ArtCrafters had back in June. During the month of June, we would donate 25% of every website Pegas order to an orphanage in Haiti. It amounted to $500 donation. We didn't want this to go to the general fund, but to a specific project. I met with an administrator and he suggested clothes for the orphans. What a great idea, so all $500 goes for clothes for the orphans. Whish we could have done more.

fantastic work

Shellac is what I would use.

Hi everybody, they could send them rolled up in a tube? I think that would be a lot better, Bob

Did you stain a carved out area? Just asking as the carving exposes all sorts of different grain patterns.. I think that's why the CNC guys use paint more often. With carved flat grain you get both edge grain, end grain and a flat grain surface to cover usually on each letter... we all know how stain takes differently on the ends and edges.. I'd think that would create a disaster. But again, I'm no finish expert when it comes to wood.. Not a expert in the auto painting either but I know my way around that stuff a lot more than wood.. since I did that body shop stuff for several years.

A lot of very nice products!

Krylon makes a spray "Sealer". I found it at Hobby Lobby. It is made for sealing canvases and wood that will be painted. It smells and acts like a very thin Lacquer. Dries quickly. Will not soak in too much unless the wood is real soft....Walnut should not absorb the sealer too much. After painting and then sanding, the exposed wood should be like new so I would use Deft Lacquer, after sanding to min 600 grit, to coat the entire piece. I like Lacquer and I feel it does a good job making the grain pop. It works to protect the painted areas as well.

Took a week off from work, since it was pointed out that I had to "use it or lose it" by Dec 31. No prob, more sawdust!!!! So I start in on a multi-layer project when the wife mentions that she was serious when she said she wanted me to make a large sign for the tortoise enclosure. Oh, and the daughter wanted one for her bearded dragon terrarium. Me pointing out that signs wouldnt' do much good, as neither tortoises nor beardies are noted for their reading abilities. So Sunday was spent making signs. Nugget is the Sulcata Tortoise, and Yuki (Japanese for "Luck", I'm told) is the beardie. Yuki: Nugget:

The family tree is roughly 20x12 inches. It's made from 1/4" cherry, with 5mm ply backer. It uses the same ply painted black for the strips that hold it all together. Sheila Landry design. The dragon is 9x5.5 inches, from 1/4" curly maple, with a 5mm ply backer. Both were cut with Olson #2/0R blades.

To me this is one of Steve's best pattern ever. Everyone seems to like it. I cut if out of 3/4" Red Oak.

Cut out of 3/4 Alder.

I got it done. I think my problem was I though my cutting skills were not good enough for the great pattern I got from TD. Then I got it in my thick head to go slow and follow the lines. this is what I got. Thank You TD for the great Pattern.

Hello friends, I show you this work. It's honestly not my idea, I saw it in google images. I copied it and did it. Hope you like the idea for your feline pets LOL Greetings to all and thanks in advance for your comments.

Sorry I've not been on the forum of late, but I'm afraid as with all of us life gets in the way at times, these are a couple of cuts I've managed in the last couple of months, I've tried to make them posher by putting them in box frames (shop bought sorry), the small one is for our kitchen and the larger one was for the Daughter-In-Law who has a small cupcake business that started off as a hobby, they are both cut from 10mm Maple, I brought that after advise on the forum about "white" woods for inlay, I like cutting it so much I'm using it for other things as well

I finally got my hands on some quality 1/4 inch BB and wanted to try stack cutting. This is a Steve Good pattern and was cut with #3 MGT. I finished them with natural and red pine Minwax followed by 4 coats of clear gloss with light 300 grit sanding between coats. I wanted to keep the thickness to a minimum so the backer board is actually heavy card stock that has been lightly painted (which seem to work fine). Hope you enjoy.

it is look great ~~well done

I went through a bit of a Japanese phase so did a few Mt Fuji projects. Here is a black and grey one I did on the scroll saw. Painted it with an airbrush.

Here;s a pattern of the 'Scenic View" master himself. BobRoss

We have a big boat (33ft cabin cruiser) that we have on Lake of the Woods, Ontario. Love going to the various islands to anchor overnight, always a different view. I have turned a few of these into puzzles.

I think it was 2 Summers ago I took my wife on a day trip to get out of the hot desert. This is where we went, Mount Rainier in Washington. Such a beautiful sight! I see by the date on the picture it was 3 Summers ago. Time flies!

I'll kick this one off. Most folks I talk to always gush about beach vacations, cruises, sand and palm trees, Hawaii.....they can have em. Send me to the mountains! Forests, rivers, lakes, waterfalls, the peace and quiet of a shady trail with nothing but the sound of the wind to disturb the afternoon (and the occasional curse as my clumsy ass trips over a root). My wife is of the same mind, although she enjoys the beaches more than I do. Thus a Steve Good pattern, not quite finished yet (I'm juggling three or four projects at the time), but still....is mountains. Is good.