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Been playing around with some random cellphone wallpapers and various cliparts of grass and bamboo, to put together my first layered pattern. Couldn't decide which samurai (layer 2) looked better, so I did both. The bamboo/tall grass (layer 3) and short grass (layer 1) were a pain to cut, and I ended up doing a lot of on-the-fly adjustments since I didn't have a drill bit small enough to get some of the pilot holes for details that would've made the grass blades make more sense. I tried to make sure that any sharp blades had a line that could be traced back into the lower regions, so there wouldn't be any grass tips poking out of another blade with no extra body to connect to the "ground". These were fun cuts, though, for a week off of work. 1/4" BB ply from Lowes, four layers. Layer 3 (bamboo) took probably a day and a half to cut on its own, cut the short grass (layer 1 in another half day, then the two samurai and the moon took about three hours total. Layer's 1 (short grass), 3 (bamboo), and 4 (moon) were stack cut. The two samurai were solo cut, but only had two interior cuts so those went really quick. Layers 1, 2, and 3 were stained Minwax Honey, frame and layer 4 are Minwax Ebony. White plastic sheeting over the moon was a protective cover for a laptop privacy filter that I saved after installing for a user. LED strips wrapped around the inside of the frame came from Amazon for about $12...the red moon is a newer strip, it is multi-colored and cycles through the color spectrum. Yellow-ish white LED's are single-color only. Used Pegas #1MG blades for this one.

I've always 'cut' as a hobby. Something to keep me entertained through my retirement. I've usually cut whatever took my fancy. I enjoy seeing 'something' appear out of what is essentially a plain piece of wood, it gives me lots of pleasure. However, I was asked to do this for a friends wife, but, not only that, I was told on Saturday evening that it's her birthday on Wednesday so would it be ready by then ??? I've cut a 'simpler' version of what was required. I must admit though that 'rushing' to get it cut/glued/oiled/varnished. was not enjoyable. This picture is what I've done today, and the pieces are just resting on top of one another. I now have a tremendous respect for those that do this for a living. Cutting to order and working to deadlines is not for me. I take my hat off to all those 'workers' out there. !!

At the Illinois State Fair there is a size limit of 12"wide by 20" high by 8" deep. Depth is relevant and can be more. I say this because last year the Fair was shuttered. I had downloaded a pattern of the Victorian sunburst Clock to enter last year in their Scroll Saw division. That didn't happen so the pattern sat in my shop. But this year the fair was open. Unfortunately this clock pattern was 15" all around leaving me two solutions. Downsize the pattern which means some of the cutouts would be so small they may not work out well. So I opted to size each side of the clock. The result was very different, but turned out somewhat satisfying. The clock was cut out in Dark Walnut with a layer of light pine behind the body facing front. The Actual Sun was cut out of a large block of Hedge Apple plained down to 3/8 width. I have some Hedge Apple Wood left, but have no desire to work with it again unless nothing else will do. It was somewhat sticky and left a yellow residue everywhere, and my shop vac bag both bottom and top had to be washed and bleached to get the stain out. Still, it came out beautiful as the sun. Two years ago they had the fair and I won first place with a Dutch Box, last year the fair was Covid Cancelled, and this year? First place again with this Sunburst Clock. This piece with all its small cut outs will indeed be a monstor dust collector so I will eather need to make a shadow box for it or a cover of some type for over it on the wall. Saws: Jet 22" for the fretwork, and a Porter Cable 18" for some sanding. Blades: various Pegas, Sharktooth 2/0 and FD Superior Puzzle [Spiral blades used for Initial circular cuts] If your going to work with Hedge Apple you will need to use a small blade, slow it down a lot, and be patient Thousands of people go through the buildings during our Fair each year, and this is an opportunity to get more folks interested in Scroll Saw work. I hope I can get the images to load

My latest work, inspired by a deepening relationship with our Savior.

A friend of mine asked me to make these for him. The barber sign was for him to give his own barber as a retirement gift.

So Sorry to here that, my youngest Daughter and Granddaughter both have it now, They will be out of Quarantine this weekend. Speedy recovery.

Praying for you both for a speedy recovery

Feel better soon, Les... and your wife also. If you do feel better, it would be a great time to spend on the saw.

Sorry to hear that Les. Prayers for you both to make a quick and full recovery with no lingering issues.

Sorry to hear about the covid, Les. You both take care and get well. And you just got your blade order. Well maybe back to scrolling in a few weeks

No, and we will not!

Wow! sorry to hear that, praying for you both for a speedy full recovery. I've read that vitamin C and D help fight it off better.. not sure if that is factual or not but makes sense to me.

That board should be considered paint grade only. Finger jointed door jambs & trim, engineered framing lumber, etc are becoming more & more common. Wood is a renewable resource, but it takes many years to grow a tree suitable for a lot of woodworking/construction applications where wide, long, straight and stable are necessary qualities for lumber, often over appearance. Bottom line is that the big box stores are not an ideal source for wood that is suitable for our hobby. It's a shame, really, but they cater to different market.

Depending on the motor, it might be possible to add an external speed control. xocd

This video shows Jack Metcalfe operating his frame scroll saw (the model for mine). It might be a bit sped-up:

Most of probably saw this pattern that Steve Good published this morning. My oldest granddaughter who is 3 has decided that spooky things and Halloween are the absolute best so I got to cutting after my cup of coffee. Now I need to determine how to paint this up for Shiloh so it can go on her bedroom wall. Cut on my Pegas with MGT#3 blade except for using a spiral blade for the veining. Be blessed. ADDED the painted version

I just made a run to Lowe's for my usual purchase of poplar boards and seeing something I've never run into before... piecing together boards to make a 12" wide??? In my short 5 years of doing this, never seen this before... anyone else run into it? 6' long board cost has gone from $33 to $45 and now doing this?

The saw in the picture is my version of Jack Metcalfe's frame saw as shown on his book on Chippendale marquetry. The saw consists of two rectangular frames made out of 3/4 baltic birch plywood (using pocket holes). Between the two frames there is a set of two bog-standard drawer slides that serve as linear bearings. One of the frames is stationary and is clamped to my workbench in my basement shop via a horizontal member that is screwed to the stationary frame. The other frame holds the blade and moves up and down. Pushing on a pedal (a short length of 2x4) brings the frame down. A lath of white oak acts as a spring to bring the frame back up. Right now I have a small piece of 1/4" plywood screwed to the horizontal member serving as the saw table. I should make a better version, but I am having too much fun playing with it as is. In this version, the throat of the frames is 26". I.e., the maximum size of the piece can be no more than 13". The frames can be made larger, of course. The blade holders are from an outfit in Barcelona that I bought a few years back when I was visiting. I think I could make equivalent holders with in my shop with some work. Tension is controlled by the big wing-nut on top of the upper holder. It is designed with marquetry in mind: i.e., to cut a few layers of thin veneers using a skinny blade. It might work for 1/4" bbp using a #3 blade, but I have not tried. Features: The blade moves strictly vertically. (For some definition of "strictly") One can use a lot or as little of the blade as one wants on each stroke One can control the speed and length of each stroke independently, which is great for tight turns Sawing goes goes surprisingly fast Quiet Vibration free Very light and easy to store as it doesn't have its own stand I feel much more in control using this saw than when using my Excalibur, even at its slowest speed. I haven't yet, but I think I could use this in my kitchen or dining room and not scare the horses. xocd

Thanky to all for the kind words, as far as counting interior cuts? I don't have the nerve. After it I just want to walk away. Just a little nerve wracking.

looks very nice, good luck at the fair

On an iPhone you press on the video and hold. It will offer you a menu on which you can pick "copy url". I do not know about Android, but imagine something similar. xocd

Who have you been cuddling with? Stay safe.

Sorry to hear your down. Wishing the two of you and fast and complete recovery.

very nice work, I really like the first one, RJ

sorry to hear that, take care of yourselves, RJ

I like those,,, very nice!

Duels have been fought on this question. I have used a chevalet and I much prefer the horizontal frame saw. It is as accurate as I need, much simpler to make, and easier to use. But I am a tyro. There are important professionals, who have much more experience than I have, that swear by the chevalet: e.g., Patrick Edwards of the San Diego School of French Marquetry. It seems that they trace their lineage to the École Boulle in Paris. (Though Boulle himself did not use a chevalet, as the chevalet is a 19th century invention.) Jack Metcalfe, expert on Chippendale marquetry, swears by the horizontal frame saw. In the video below you can see Patrick Edwards gleefully using a frame saw, though he is a chevalet evangelizer:

Did you get the Vaccine shot?

We do the C and D.

awesome job

that's beautiful, fantastic job

very nice the lights look great

That's not a glued up panel, this is the effects of global warming making the trees grow. inside out. I mentioned years ago to Scott about buying lumber from a actual lumber yard or mill, he likes his specific 12" x 6 ft. boards. I pay $12.60+tax for the same board at my local lumber supplier.. and that isn't direct mill price this is planned to the same size as what the box stores get. Actually I pay less than that.. as they have a rewards points thing and the more you spend the larger discount % off.. at the local mill buying green rough cut is probably about $6-8 for the same size board maybe less, I get mine free from them because I get the scrap pieces ( whatever doesn't meet the 30" minimum for them goes into scrap bin to be ground into wood chips. ) Problem is it's green and rough cut.. gotta wait a year plus to dry out good and then run through the planner..

Yow lots of work but worthy it. Love them all. Barbara

They are great, I especially like the first one. Marg

Even though you felt pushed, you did a great job. I do take commissions but I tell the client that the project will be done in my own time. I only get to saw on the weekends and that's after I've mowed the grass (6 acres), taken care of animals and what ever honey-dos are on the list.

These turned out great. The added touch with the LEDs really sets them off. Excellent job.

I'd like to watch these on the big screen. Can you post a link to them?

These really cool. LEDs add multi color without the paint. The 2 bottom pics can indicate sunrise and moonrise after dark. Or the bottom left can indicate a smokey sky from California fires. anyway the layered scenes look excellent. good job.

Very nicely cut!

Some of the earlier ones were single speed... @Jim Finn has one that is single speed, I think.

I want to thank @Jim Blume for the great pattern. I used 3M 77 spray glue to attach 1/8" BB to 1/4" BB backer. Frame made of poplar and stained Minwax black along with the backer. My first fret work project in quite a while.

A different frame saw:

I always just lean mine against whatever happens to be at hand. lol.

Let me first get a tripod mount for my phone. xocd

Just finished another great pattern from Steve Good, Flying Eagle. 3/4" thick White Oak finished with Danish Oil.

Excellent work.

Deer is 3/8" thick and rougly 8x10 inches, and made from QS Red Oak with a ply backer. Cut with Olson #2/0R blades. The humming bird is from 3/8" curly maple and about 5x7 inches, with a ply backer. Cut with Olson #2/0R blades. The Rather be fishing is about 3/8" thick hard maple with a ply backer. It measures about 11x9 inches and was cut with Olson #2/0R blades. All 3 are Sheila Landry Designs.

My Lowes also has glued up 12" wide Poplar boards. I cut up Poplar boards into 1 3/4" wide sticks that I make my frames from. Although expensive, 12" wide boards make the frames rather economical. But cant use the glued up boards as the uneven grain doe not work well for stained frames. I've settled on cutting up 8" wide 6' long boards into 4 sticks with little waste.

I am impressed! Excellent job.