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Nothing to brag about, but I have not posted lately. Four Miniature Birdhouse Ornaments finished. The patterns are by Diana Thompson. The birdhouses made from Ash and the little birds from Purpleheart. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #6 Skip blades and #5R MGT blades. Comments welcome.

This project has been haunting me for months. 1/2" Baltic birch ply, some Olson #2 spirals (about 14) FD new spiral #0/2 about 36), pilot holes with a #65 bit, min-wax classic gray 271 stain, DecoArt craft twinkles crystal (clear)(for the highlights),four coats Minwax clear satin finish, pattern by me (from a photo).

My version of band saw box but made with a scroll saw.

In another thread, folks were discussing the hardness of various woods. I have this chart saved to my computer and if I remember to look at it, it helps me determoine which blades to use, and also if I really want to use that wood at all. Hope this chart helps. https://woodandshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/janka-wood-hardness-wood-and-shop.pdf

This great H. Botas pattern was slightly sized to fit a 13” W x 12” H panel. The cut panel is 5/32” thk. Solid Core ply affixed to a same size 1/4” thk BB ply backer. Both panels were hand painted with Artist Acrylic paints. The cut panel was cut using Pegas #0 Spiral blades. The assembled panel was finished with multiple coats of Delf Clear Gloss Lacquer. The Frame is a simple 1 3/4”wide Poplar, stained with Minwax Early American and protected with multiple coats of Minwax Clear Gloss Wipe-on Poly. Comments and critiques are always welcome.

It’s time for me to make Christmas ornaments. Here is one. Pattern from Scroll Saw Woodworking abs Crafts magazine. Wood is 1/4” flame box elder.

I have made a lot of these puzzle stools in different variations. I mortised the legs into the top on my scroll saw. Would be happy to share the pattern along with the lettering.

I hear that sometimes, and can remember when I too was intimidated by a pattern. But then someone told me, "One hole at a time" and it changed my entire thought process. Besides that, things being fragile can pose a different set of concerns and there are a variety of techniques to help you there too. Taping waste pieces back inside fragile areas might be an option, cutting really long cuts out in sections rather than all at one time, and I'm sure others work as well. Point here is to not be intimidated or overcome. Like ole Dan George said in a movie, "Endeavor to Persevere". But if you still would like to make something less fragile, cropping a pattern might be an option for you. See what I did here, but don't tell the designer I messed with his pattern......

I made my grandson a chess board and now he wants me to make him the chess men. He wants the chess men to be made of padauk and hard maple. I made the king yesterday out of padauk and it was a bear to cut. To cut this I used the # 5 Pegas (MGT) Blades. It took me over 2 hours and about 8 blades. The king is 3 3/4" tall and 1 1/4" at the base. Here is a picture of the king I cut. I will have to do this over because there is a bad mistake on the other side.

This is my favorite band Dream Theater. Due to chemo side effects, I have no feeling in my hands and feet so this is about as fancy is I get for a while. At least I get to enjoy all the amazing art posted here. Happy scrolling all and God bless

This is one of my favorites so far. Its a great pattern.

I cut this from 1/2 thick Aspen and attached it to a 1/2 thick back board that is painted black. This is the Aspens natural color, it only has a clear protective coat on it. The entire project is about 10" high and 8" wide,

Thanks all "for not telling the designer" I messed with his pattern. As a few folks mentioned, those loooong cuts can sometimes be more of a challenge than many many small cuts. The zero insert works well too, especially with fragile cuts. Dennis Knappen likes my Elder pattern, and I have to say that it is also one of my favorites, and has been cut many times for folks here in Wisconsin's native American community. Thanks all for your comments, and especially working together to help out others who may happen upon this thread.

Big thanks to @WayneMahler for his help on this pattern. A friend's father's health is declining so they are moving his radio from his barn to his home and wanted a wall sign for his new "Shack". It's about 11" X 13" X 5/8" red oak.

I love bubinga, padauk and especially bloodwood. I have scrolled all of them. I use a FD UR #5 and due to isn’t density, I put painters tape on the back to help with the burning. You have to cut very slow and let the blade dictate the speed. If it still breaks blades, then opt up to a FD UR#7. If that still breaks blades, take a chainsaw to it and tear it up and then go online to see if you can find those pieces there. Good luck and nice board

Great job on the chess board and game piece. Padauk is a very hard wood and will always change color(darken) after time. Most of what I have cut is either 1/4 or 1/8" and it will handle smaller blades but they do wear out fast. Padauk has a sort of peppery smell when cut. It didn't take long to figure out I should be using a mask because it did affect me after a while. I actually prefer Bubinga. It is also a hard wood but retains its color and has a beautiful sheen when lacquered. (still use a mask)

I haven't completely figured it out, but I do tend to break more spiral blades on my Hegner than my other saw. Not enough that I worry about it. I also had a gross of #3/0 FD-NS blades that I fought and fought on both my saws because no matter what I did, I would get the "hockey puck" bend on one or both ends, when mounting the blades. I started straightening the ends before mounting them, but I had never had to do that before. I finally decided there was something wrong with the blades, and ordered a new bunch... I was right.. laying the new and old blades side by side, I could see a difference. The old ones had more twists in the ends than the new ones.. The new one work like they should... So the point is, some time you can get a bad batch of blades..

"Work from the center out" is my best advice when working on delicate patterns. You can't always do this, but keeping the outer areas solid until the end helps with handling and moving the piece with as little damage as possible. But always remember that once the pattern has been removed, only you will see the little errors. Everyone else looks at the whole project at once and never sees the little errors. Charley

great job

As usual, another great piece, Frank.

A wonderful project and special effort.

Thanks Jim!

Great sign. He will enjoy having this one. It is so special Dick heppnerguy

Well before we know it Halloween will be here, So I thought I would get a Little head start. I,m headin out to the Flea Markey this morn, I have a few Halloween Goodies ready. The Casket's and Scene are by Steve Goode. Ghost is mine I made from a drawing, don't know the artist, wish I did. Remember 9.11

Maybe it's time for the grandson to take up Scroll sawing and you can give advice as it goes. I have done she pieces and board a few times they are always a challenge. I often get the blank set up and cut one taking the time and energy it takes then put on a few ornaments or other small things and have time with easier cut fast as you want then cut another chess piece seems to go faster but I am sure it is slower.

It beautiful, looking for the complete set to be finished, RJ

Although it wasn't mentioned, Woodrush typically takes patterns that I design at 11 X 14" and cuts them at 8 1/2 X 11". (The dude's Insane) Not sure what size he did this one, but regardless, he did an awesome job on it, especially after being off the saw for a number of months. Blessings to you Pard.

As Frank and others have said, it is a hard wood and I would use at least a #5 skip tooth, even a #7 and do take your time and don't push the wood into the blade! Denny made the comment about the dust, it is a fine dust and one of the things I have discovered about the dust, when you finish cutting all of the pieces make sure that your saw and table are absolutely clean and do not use the blades to cut any other woods! The dust will find its way into a cut or will pick it up off of the table and will stain lighter colored wood especially maple! The chess board you have made is top notch and once you have all of the pieces cut, it will be a joy to play on! Erv

Here is a good reference you might wish to copy and refer to as time goes on. https://woodandshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/janka-wood-hardness-wood-and-shop.pdf

The last compound cut chess set I did, I used walnut and birch, both which cut nicely with great contrast. Not sure what the density of padauk is, but hard maple is a bit tough as well. I wish you the best as you continue with the project, and I am sure it will end up being an heirloom piece treasured forever.

I play Chess myself, Love the game, the board is Beautiful. The King is Fantastic, Never cut that wood, so I can't comment either way. But it sounds like you have a long and( blady) road ahead of you.

I tape the large fallouts back in place for stability. Also I keep them in place when sanding the back for fuzzies. My favorite Jim Blume pattern is "The Elder".

Uing the "laughing" like button was not meant to be down putting...I just found your story to be funny! I know nothing about Padauk, so I can't be any help there other than to say Walnut or Mahogany might be acceptable contrasting alternatives, as we all know that they cut nicely. Still chuckleing about "2 hours and 8 blades" later only to have a "bad mistale"!!!!!!!!! Sorry.

My new project - Mechanical butterfly, and two more similar projects. What do you thing aboul such style? Mechanical butterfly pattern Video of making project

Anybody who might want to send prayers, thoughts or condolences to Faye Grenz, here is her info. Faye Grenz 6263 Depew street Arvada, Co. 80003