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This is a recent Steve Good pattern that I increased in size and cut from 12” x 12” panels. Slightly modified to eliminate the hanging holes and added a forth backer layer to allow the words to be painted. The piece is three layers of 1/8” BB Ply and a 1/4” BB Ply backer for a total 5/8” thick plaque. Painting was done with a combination of Rattle can spray paints and Artist Acrylic paints. The plaque perimeter was cut after painting and the panels were assembled. The plaque was protected with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Polyurethane, as this will hang outside on my house for the month of December. I was sloppy in cleaning and sanding as some fuzzies can be seen in the photo that are not so apparent in person viewing unless you get up very close. It is hard to clean off fuzzies after the panels were painted. Yes, I tried to make the full moon look real in a stary sky. Hope you enjoy. As always comments and critiques are welcomed.

My wife showed me a picture a couple days ago of a little pin storage box and asked if I could make one for her... So I did... Made out of oak. The lid swivels on a brass rod to open and as soon and my order comes I will put a magnet in the lid and a piece of rod in the base to hold the lid closed... If she drops a pin, she can easily remove the lid and use the magnet to pick up the pin...

Did this one a couple days ago. Also a Wooden Teddy Bear pattern

Pattern from Wooden Teddy Bear

Filigree Holiday Ornaments pattern by Keith Fenton found in SWWC current issue #85 pages 26 and 27. Stack cut 1/4" various hardwoods. These were cut at home on the EX21 using FD UR #1 blades. The finish is two coats Minwax Lacquer Clear Satin with sanding between coats.

A Publix girl came up to me and wanted her name made. I said are you taking me out to eat? She said yes but name first! Here's the start of her name because she was an angel to me .I was o lala land looking at her and then in the store later her friend comes up and says she's going with us!!!. It's like I'm being escorted by to beauty contest winners !!!

I don't remember where I found this pattern, I used 1/4" Oak, semi gloss poly, and I had the clock from awhile back. It's 11x9x3 1/2" I had to make some saw dust putty for a few mistakes so I used it from some old oak barn wood. That was a big mistake, it ended up drying very dark, almost black and now I have to hide it somehow. I have the wood so I might do it in walnut but I have nowhere to put it either so we'll see. I'll probably give it to a lady at work to give another lady she knows. Thanks for looking.

My newest project. Got the pattern from Wooden Teddy Bear.

Only 89 cuts but took me about 7 hours. Either I am slowing down or need to find a better designer.

Cut this for a friend. It ended up having to be repaired due to there being a void just below the veneer. Thankfully they wanted it painted so I was able to hide the seams. just to the left side of the body in the the middle of the upper wing. "Sanding and paint make me the scroller that I ain't"

I just finished this up today, Steve Good pattern, cut out of 1/4" bb using a Pegas #3R Reverse Skip Blade.

Got it done... I really think the assembly and finishing was more difficult than the scrolling part... Usually is for me...But it was worth the effort,,,, now I have to decide what to do with it! I lined the inside of the "box" part with some veneer that I stained a dark color. Finished with about 6 coats of Deft gloss lacquer. The wood is 1/4" Mahogany from Ocooch Hardwoods. I would like to do another one just because I really enjoyed building this one...

The only time I use painter's tape is if I am stack cutting... and even then I usually only tape around the edges to hold the stacked pieces together... I use spray adhesives like 3M 77. I spray the back of the pattern and attach it directly to the wood... To remove after cutting, I wipe Mineral spirits over the pattern and them lift the pattern off. Use some more mineral spirits to wipe off any glue residue.. I scroll Baltic Birch plywood except if I am using solid wood, not plywood.. You cannot get Baltic Birch plywood at most big box stores like Home Depot or Lowes... I get mine at the local Windsor Plywood or an unfinished furniture store amd lots of lumberyards carry it. It is getting hard to find Baltic Birch, you can order it off the interne from places like Ocooch Hardwoods, Cherokee woods and lots of places that carry scroll saw patterns, and supplies..

Two days late as her birthday was Tuesday. That's me,!!! I made it on a beautiful teak venier but failed to conciser the fragileness of it. So a little backer behind it helped after it was all done. I aim to put a smile on a girl's face just for their time. I also for got to take a finished picture of it , poor me.theres a clock init too but that's in the missing picture. Not bad for not having my office word program to work from.

I've completed the finish on this project today. It is a Jim Blume pattern cut using Pegas 2/0 and #1 spiral blades, 1/4 maple ply stained natural with a 1/4 pine ply backer cut 2 inches larger than the front and painted black. The entire project was sprayed with 4 coats of gloss poly with a light sanding between each coat. The frame is actually framing material I had on hand which I think turned out pretty nice with this piece. Thank, Jim, for the pattern. I hope I did it justice.

I applied one coat of Tung oil and one coat of clear sealer, looks very good through the light. Pictures of before and after

AAAH, what does @heppnerguy know.... Dragons are cool... I love dragons... Great job!!

Thanks for posting this. I look forward to seeing everything you make. Always enjoyable to see Dick heppnerguy

I learned to use your method Crupeia. I get great results by letting the adhesive "cure" until it is barely tacky. I also use the peel n stick shipping labels with good success. I think the heat gun is the best method for pattern removal. I buy BB ply from Cherokee Wood Products. Great quality.

There are a number of methods to attach the patern but here is what i do and have been doing for many years, I start with spray glu3, currently I have 3m super 77 which i got at walmart. The loktite stuff works about the same. I lightly spray the back of the pattern, lightly spray being the key word. Then I wait 3-4 minutes. It will be barely tacky, then put it on the wood. If you get the barely tacky part right it will stay in place to cut and come right off when done. Too tacky and it will stick and be very hard to remove causing excessive foul language. The tackiness should be way less than that of a post it note, way less. Hard to describe but the 3-4 minute thing seems to work, just play with it. As far as wood goes baltic birch is the best, the reason is that regular plywood has filler that is basically just sawdust or the like. When you make fine cuts it will natually fall apart, chip, blow out and drive you nuts. Baltic birch doesnt have sawdust fillers but actual thin sheets glues together so natrurally it stays together when cut. This also makes it more expensive too. Big box stores dont really sell it. I get mine in 5 x 5 sheets from a local wood specialty place that caters to custom cabinet makers and yacht builders. There, its probably the cheapest stuff they have plus they have all the thicknesses. Look for something like this if you live in a bigger city. Not regular birch, it has to be baltic birch. Just look at the edge of it and you can tell if its filler or plys.

A big thank you to Kevin for his very informed and educated answer to my problem. I am looking forward to your picture of the adjustment screw. I will do some tinkering tomorrow as today is not a "workshop" day. I hope that RBI will answer my email with some input as well. I'll post my success/failure after "tinkering" Mike

Three things affect the tension and can cause the front cam lever to not hold in the tensioned position. The wedge shaped thing at the back of the saw on the upper arm.. If the edge of the wedge gets rounded over the tension usually will hold until you turn the saw on and it gets to speed sometimes it'll pop the lever at the front of the saw.. This is usually noticed before it gets to that point though as it'll usually start snapping blades as when that gets rounded over it'll make the blade tension fluctuate as the saw is running. IF the wedge isn't too worn.. you can try to sand it to a point again to get by for a while.. Just place a sandpaper maybe around 220 grit or finer on a flat surface and sand each side of the wedge to get the rounded off part of it back to a point.. It is a fine point too. almost to a sharp edge.. Another issue can be the upper arm where that wedge I previously discussed can also be worn.. depending on age of the saw.. some of them the wedge rides right onto the saws upper arm, while other saws have a round insert that is replaceable.. IF you have the older style you may need to take the arm off and send it to Bushton.. they'll drill it out IF it's not worn so bad and make it so you can put those replaceable inserts in it. NOW for the most likely problem.. There is a cam on the front of the upper arm on the tension lever and those wear out.. Really going to depend on what vintage saw you have.. as there are different styles. The newer styles will have a set screw to adjust the "locking position" on the lever for the cam. It's a very small set screw and hard to see.. but look on the bottom of the upper arm just below where the lever goes into the arm.. there will be a tiny hole there where you can adjust the locking position. This should have some tension on it and not fall freely to the top of the upper arm. Without a blade in the saw move the lever as if you was applying tension to a blade. You should get some resistance in the lever before it reaches all the way to the arm. Properly adjusted it should have some resistance about 1/8" - 1/4 before touching the upper arm. IF you have no adjustment allen screw you'll have to replace the cam assembly.. I suggest getting the upgraded one that has the set screw.. The upgraded kit comes with a whole new front assembly with new style blade clamp etc.. It cost $50 and very well worth it.. I'll see if I can post some pictures a little later today to show the locations of the set screw and the position of the tension lever when it's adjusted correctly. I do have a busy day ahead of me so we'll see if I actually get time to do this, LOL

I was mistaken about the bottom knob being motor control. It is the knob to tilt the table. yes the hole i was thinking had something missing was where the tube comes out the top. .. Some scroll saw people dont use a blower, they use a vacuum. The blower should blow dust away from you. Having dusty shirts and pants is kinda a nuisance. So some owners have the vacuum so it reduces the whole dust issue. Yes the scrollsaw can be a addictive tool. Patience and becoming one with the wood is having fun. Yes this village has a lot of knowledge. Just ask questions and share pics.

Get yourself a $10 aquarium pump and it will do a better job than the original.

So, I have seen several different methods of attaching your pattern to the wood. So far I am using the painters tape and glue method.. I attach painters tape to the wood, and glue the pattern using white glue to the painters tape. But I find that pulls some of the wood up, at least on the wood I am using. I really would like to learn some additional methods. Now, as far as wood. So far I an kinda in "practice mode" as I just started using this thing (first project came out really nice I think) so I have been using 1/4" thick flooring underlay (See picture) as its nice and thin (the kind of work I wanna get into) and very cheap. But can't help but think there are better options out there. But when I went to my local big box hardware store, I didn't know what to ask for, so the guy kinda looked at me like I was from mars when I tried to explain what I wanted. Is there a better "practice" wood? And what should I start to get when I want to start making some really nice stuff?

Given the serial number you shown is a very low number and you have the one with the M.. at one time I knew what that M stood for but have forgotten now, LOL Anyway I'm guessing you have a mid - late 80's saw.. I could be wrong but it's certainly not from the late 90's. Guessing you have the round lower blade clamp / holder.. Also guessing you have the old style tension cam that doesn't have the adjustable set screw on the bottom of the lever area. The wedge at the back wouldn't have the insert ( which you already confirmed that ). I forgot I did a short video clip to help out another Hawk owner on how to adjust that set screw so here is a link to my video I put on youtube a year or so ago.. In the video notice how the lever gets resistance before it reaches the arm.. that helps "lock" the lever in place.. IF your saw was upgraded to the newer style it would have the set screw in it and just needs adjusted.. IF no set screw and your tension lever just flops freely all the way down to the arm then you need to replace the cam.. I'd recommend upgrading to the new style so you can adjust it. Anyway here is the video link. I'm going to edit this reply shortly with some pictures of the set screw and the updated kit pictures on my saw etc. This photo is of the set screw.. notice the screw is right in line of the tension lever.. this is the bottom of the upper arm.. This is a photo of the updated cam kit with the new style removable blade clamp / holder. This is installed on my 1993 220VS.. This is a photo of the lever on the 220VS with the updated kit and properly adjusted.. the lever stops right here and then you push it down to the arm to "lock" it. This is a photo of the back wedge on the 220VS.. Note the wedge rides right on the arm itself.. This is the wedge on my BM 226VS.. Note the wedge rides on the round insert that when worn can be easily replaced.. rather than having to send in the arm and have it machined. This is the 226VS Ultra front blade holder.. it is a 1998 saw and has the older style upper cam and clamp.. however they did add the replaceable cam and set screw to this but once this wears out I'll upgrade to the new one like I did on the 220VS. Just another angle of the 226VS clamp

Kevin, I took a quick look at my saw and it doesn't have the adjustment hole (screw) under the tension lever. Also, it doesn't have the round insert in the arm where the wedge fits. So, maybe I should consider sending RBI the arm to have them insert the round part and update the front tension cam, etc. What do you think? Mike

Here is a direct link to the User Gallery. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/gallery/category/1-user-gallery/ Users can create their own Album or gallery. When they do, and post new photos to their album, they will only show up there and where you saw them as new editions. They do not automatically get posted anywhere else unless the user creates and shares a Separate post in one of the sub forums. For example, I will usually post in my album but also create a thread in either the Bragging forum, or Intarsia forum (depending on the type of project) where I share information on the project and the photos. I do this for a couple reasons. I use the “Album” as a way to keep track in one place pictures of at least most of my scroll projects all together. However, I also share in a forum, because I rrealize if I don’t, many people don’t ever see the works in our personal albums. It. Is allows med too provide details on the project like where the pattern came from, etc Perhaps, like you, others have never realized they are there. I have also seen where many put items in their album, but never post to share in the actual forum(s). I is unfortunate because a lot of great work is never seen by many here because of that.

Very nice,,,, in fact, very very nice...

With the beautiful work you do, Your house should look like a museum inside with all your work hanging everywhere Dick

Ha ha ha.... Paul, you can't kid me...I have been to your house several times and I have never heard you mention having dragon meat on the menu. How can you possibly know you like dragon ? Can't kid me Dick heppnerguy

I think Yours is Much Better looking than mine. But Your are the Painter Pro. :+}

great job. this is a real keeper. I am not much into dragons but I sure enjoy how well you executed this project. Very well done Dick heppnerguy

Always interesting and amazing to see your work as both a designer and a scroller. Thanks for sharing. I sure love this one also. Dick heppnerguy

What you’re using for "practice" is fine, but when you move into things to keep the Baltic birch is the gold standard to use. If you want to avoid solvents to remove glue you can cover your wood with clear shelf liner (eg Contact brand or similar) instead of painter's tape. Spray the adhesive on the pattern and fix to the wood. The contact paper comes off without leaving a residue and doesn’t lift the wood fibers. If you don’t have a local source for Baltic birch you can buy it online from a number of places (Woodcraft, Rockler, and Cherry Tree come to mind and I’m sure there are others). Although I haven’t tried it myself I’ve heard that Purebond plywood is also good for scrolling.

Don't have a Hawk but will follow for possible future use.

Outstanding piece of art Paul. Will be cherished for years (if not decades) to come. Jeff

Whatever is wrong, I would think it is under warranty. I'm anxious to see what response you get..

Nice work, both on the cutting and on the repair. I know, I know, it was the wood's fault, but we also know some of us like to fess-up when we make a Boo Boo, but if you never tell anyone, nobody ever knows. It is also what makes these peices "one-of-a-kind".

I never used a fence but have used spirals but I find straight blades do a better job for me. Seems to me bottom side tear out is a bigger problem with spirals.

The problem as I see it is how to control the deviation of the blade? It will always want to wander.

I just finished this Mike Williams pattern. I like to cut portraits pretty small and I cut this one 9x6 inches. It made for some pretty intense scrolling, all done with Pegas 2/0 spiral blades on my Pegas saw. I hope you enjoy it. I haven’t posted on here in a while, though I scroll almost everyday. I was deeply saddened to see the news about the passing of Les. This community lost a very encouraging contributor.

Booo!!

Just wonderful...absolutely beautifu!! You have definately done JIm's pattern justice. The Maple ply is beautiful and the grain works very well. Your use of spirals is well done. I use oversized backers often and they add a lot to the presentation as it does in this work. Nicely done. Your Frame is well done. I only have one minor comment just for your consideration. Be careful of your frame proportions. Wide frame rails can overpower the actual art panel. Looking at most over the counter standard style commertial "picture" frames, the rails are ususaly around 1 3/4" wide. And, JFYI, If you need to purchase wood to make frames, you can rip nominal 1x8 boards into four 1 3/4" pieces with just a sliver of waste. A 6' long board will make four 11x14 frames.

This is another done from the old barn oak a family friend gave me. The center cross is one I cut from another piece. It needed to stand out more. The lower back side I had to use a wire brush to loosen the older rotted wood. I got down to good wood. It’s about an inch thick twenty two wide and thirty inches or so long. It has two coats of semi gloss poly and I’ll probably give it one more. Thanks for looking.

Just a few months ago I purchased a DeWalt 734 on sale.... I love. I think @OCtoolguy is thinking of the DeWalt 735, a little more expensive and a step up from the 734. I would have bought it if it had been on sale.... But, I know this 734 will serve me well. It is replacing a Delta that I have had for years and worked it hard. So I think the Delta is a great one also.