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My daughter asked me to build a changing table on 1 August after the one she bought from Amazon broke as they started to assemble it. Of course I said yes but couldn't start it until mid-August and so spent anywhere from 4 to 10 hours a day in the shop. I wasn't able to finish it before my granddaughter arrived on 1 Oct but I finally delivered it last night. There are 28 mortise and tenon joints, 4 sets of hand cut dovetails, and 6 scroll work pieces adapted from Steve Goode's patterns (daughter asked me to use fairies in the design). There's also a LED light in the back with a dimmer so they doesn't have to use the overhead light at night. Changing Table Front by Scott Baker, on Flickr Changing Table Front with rear light by Scott Baker, on Flickr

My projects from the last week.

I don't remember where I found this pattern, I used 1/4" Oak, semi gloss poly, and I had the clock from awhile back. It's 11x9x3 1/2" I had to make some saw dust putty for a few mistakes so I used it from some old oak barn wood. That was a big mistake, it ended up drying very dark, almost black and now I have to hide it somehow. I have the wood so I might do it in walnut but I have nowhere to put it either so we'll see. I'll probably give it to a lady at work to give another lady she knows. Thanks for looking.

My newest project. Got the pattern from Wooden Teddy Bear.

A while back I got into making military emblem plaques for members of my surrounding family that has served... I really enjoyed the little project and all that received them seemed to be really appreciative... I made 4 USMC ones because I wanted to ensure I had enough that I had one for myself... Well that did not work out.... next thing I knew all emblems were gone.. none for Papa.. So,, I made another just for me... Got it done today.. It will go on my wall above my computer desk... I made some enhancement for myself... I increased the size by 20%. The original ones were a little over 7" in diameter,,, mine is 10". I also I increased the size of the "Semper Fidelis" an additional 5% so I could scroll it. On the others I used decal because it was too small for me to scroll. On mine I have about 10 coats of "Gloss" finish on the center part,,, with sanding to 15K grit. between coats... I wanted it to shine. The reat is about 5 coats of simi-gloss. This is the results... First picture is comparison in size, not sure why the Navy one looks so out of round.. it is not... the second is a better picture of mine... I am thinking of making more as time allows, just to give out when the occasion calls for it.. Trust me.. they are well received... I don't think I have made much of anything that seemed to mean so much to the person receiving it....

Pattern from Wooden Teddy Bear

This is a recent Steve Good pattern that I increased in size and cut from 12” x 12” panels. Slightly modified to eliminate the hanging holes and added a forth backer layer to allow the words to be painted. The piece is three layers of 1/8” BB Ply and a 1/4” BB Ply backer for a total 5/8” thick plaque. Painting was done with a combination of Rattle can spray paints and Artist Acrylic paints. The plaque perimeter was cut after painting and the panels were assembled. The plaque was protected with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Polyurethane, as this will hang outside on my house for the month of December. I was sloppy in cleaning and sanding as some fuzzies can be seen in the photo that are not so apparent in person viewing unless you get up very close. It is hard to clean off fuzzies after the panels were painted. Yes, I tried to make the full moon look real in a stary sky. Hope you enjoy. As always comments and critiques are welcomed.

Did this one a couple days ago. Also a Wooden Teddy Bear pattern

I finally finished my other condor piece. This one shows a flying profile. It is mounted to olive wood with live edge. The olive would is shaped kind like mountains. Aspen wood inlayed into stained poplar.

I applied one coat of Tung oil and one coat of clear sealer, looks very good through the light. Pictures of before and after

A Publix girl came up to me and wanted her name made. I said are you taking me out to eat? She said yes but name first! Here's the start of her name because she was an angel to me .I was o lala land looking at her and then in the store later her friend comes up and says she's going with us!!!. It's like I'm being escorted by to beauty contest winners !!!

Since I ordered my new Hawk (BM20) September 30th I am following this topic. I am hoping to receive it in a week or two. Kevin has a endless wealth of knowledge as does everyone here. On a side note if you have not you need to take time and read his blog about how he got started. Very inspirational. My Scroll Sawing Story (kevskrafts.com)

Thanks for the post. Sometimes we forget what other countries are experiencing. It helps to understand.

I like this dragon the best. Nice bright stain. kinda new to me for segmentation. I did lightly stain some of my pieces. Maybe I can venture into more colors like you.

Looks fabulous. Excellent work. Marg

The color really made it come to life. It looks fabulous. Well done. Marg

Since I don't know the condition of the saw etc.. or if you even like it.. but I personally think it's probably just the tension cam that has went bad.. I'd think the saw would be worth $50 for the updated tension update kit. It's quite simple to change. I don't think the stand is wide enough to mount the Pegas directly to it.. if you go that route.. just a FYI.. The Pegas has sort of a wide foot print for the mounting holes. I almost ordered a new Pegas a few days ago as woodcraft had the "old price" and I had a coupon code that would have made the total with shipping less than $900 and that's less than the new price.. as the new price is $940 + tax and shipping.. I could have got it for $880 shipped.. I pondered too long and went back 2-3 days later and they updated to the new price.. now well over $1100 shipped.. Oh well.. Their prices are flirting with with those prices of the new Hawk and Hegners.. I just don't see the longevity of these parallel link arm style saws being all that great.. I doubt you'll see many used 30 -40 year old Pegas saws still floating around the classified ads like you see Hawk and Hegners.. Not saying they are not a good saw.. as they are.. but that said.. priced close to those saws that are built and proven to last 30 - 40 years.. with only a couple hundred more you could buy a lifetime saw with little to no breakdowns.. or better yet.. buy a slightly used and save a ton of money.. a lot of Hawk and Hegners out there for half the price of the new Pegas and still out live the new Pegas.. Not sure what part of west MI you're from ( I'm also west MI ) but there is a decent newer style Hegner on Craiglist for $275.. no pictures this time he listed it but it was on a couple month back with pictures.. It's in Lansing.. might be worth looking at.. or get that nice new shiny Pegas that you want.. LOL just know there are lots of cheaper options..

Okay.. some of my most proud,, difficult, pride, and horrifying,, memories are wrapped up in this:

Kevin, Thanks again for all your help with this problem. After reading your latest response and pondering how far and how much $$ I want to spend fixing this old Hawk saw, I'm coming to the conclusion that it will be better for me to just replace the saw. I have a working DeWalt saw, so I'm not out of business entirely. I think I will probably buy a Pegas saw, since it has many features that I would like. I know they are out of stock right now but I can wait. I think the Hawk stand would make a very stable table for the Pegas saw, and I would not want to scrap it out. Thanks again for all the help. Mike

I suppose that is up to you if you wanted to do that, I inquired about doing the same thing to my 1993 220VS.. I don't remember now what the cost was but it wasn't a cheap repair.. They may not even offer the service anymore now.. I know they are doing less and less of supporting these old old saws.. I want to say it was around $300 to machine the arm and the cost of the insert and new wedge etc.. and shipping it back etc.. I decided against doing it.. My thought was to part out the saw or something once it got to that point.. that saw was used hard and not real well taken care of when I bought it..had many hours of use.. I gave $100 for it and basically rebuilt it.. That arm isn't worn out now so I doubt I'll wear it out myself since it's more of a back-up saw.. Actually have it for sale on the FB marketplace as I never use it anymore since I bought the new Hawk a couple years ago. The biggest wear part on these saws in my opinion is the cam and the little set screw, so long as you keep them oiled up as suggested in the manual

Looks very nice

Only 89 cuts but took me about 7 hours. Either I am slowing down or need to find a better designer.

Well done and well deserved. Thank you for your service and God Bless! Spirithorse (Navy Vet)

Actually I think the "super sharps " blades from P.S. Woods is made in the USA and their brand scroll saws are also USA made.. LOL I have not tried those super sharp blades yet.. Been wanting to give them a try.. I've heard they are awesome blades.. BUT.. pricey too, LOL

Beautiful piece... and I'm sure you didn't complete that in an afternoon.

Nice job, Paul. And thank you for your service!

Jim, I always thought Menards was a southern location. When I looked at the map they are located all the way to Wyoming and Kansas. I made the Garden City KS store my choice. They even have scrollsaw blades. Thank you

Well, I think you are right, Kevin... That is a lot of money for that kind of saw... but the price of all saws are going to go up in todays environment... The Hawk is the only American made that I know of,,,so eventually the saw you order will be sitting out off the coast rusting while it is waiting to get unloaded.... I guess that is way I keep looking far that one saw for sell on Craigslist,, that I just can't refuse... Having a few spares may be the only way to keep scrolling.. Coarse none of the blades are US made either,,, and you can't get spray adhesives,... and other supplies... BB, .....

I wish everyone would create an Album... I love looking through them and I get lots of ideas and inspiration when I do...

They are excellent, where did you get the pattern from, RJ

I attach directly to the wood. I put a light coat of spray glue to the wood. Let it to become tacky about (2 minutes). I use saw dusts to cover the areas that the pattern doesn't coverer to get rid of the tackiness , To remove the pattern from the wood I use a rag dampened with mineral spirits rubbed across the pattern and the pattern almost falls off. I then wipe the wood with the dampened rag to rewove any excessive glue on the board. Let the board dry and you can't tell it was ever had glue or mineral spirits on it .If I glue the pattern and place it on the board I still have to remove spirits and if I glue over the painters tape I then have to remove the tape ( time consuming) A gallon of mineral spirits will last for about 1 1/2 to 2 years. Quick easy and Cheep to use. IKE

excellent job

we all make boo's, it shows that it was made by a human, not a machine

very nice job

Great Job Paul. I made a similar one for a friend of mine and he really appreciated it.

Those who have served and received them must be very proud to display them. Your enhanced piece is absolutely great. Hoorah!

Awesome job. I could not see the BOOBOOS either.

Love it, Super Cool. Very Very Awesome!!

WOW!! The color popped right out at me!!. Down Right Awesome job!!

nicely done. I like the grey outline. The experienced and knowledgable look. Did you use different wood for nose and eyes? How thick is this piece? What technique did you use for the hair / fur?

Looks great Paul. You got the better one for yourself, as it should be. Marg

It look terrific. I love the way you did the moon, definitely more moon like. BTW so does ours. Marg

Looks very nice.

My Grandparents… may they all rest in peace.

I love it ! Great job !!!

Given the serial number you shown is a very low number and you have the one with the M.. at one time I knew what that M stood for but have forgotten now, LOL Anyway I'm guessing you have a mid - late 80's saw.. I could be wrong but it's certainly not from the late 90's. Guessing you have the round lower blade clamp / holder.. Also guessing you have the old style tension cam that doesn't have the adjustable set screw on the bottom of the lever area. The wedge at the back wouldn't have the insert ( which you already confirmed that ). I forgot I did a short video clip to help out another Hawk owner on how to adjust that set screw so here is a link to my video I put on youtube a year or so ago.. In the video notice how the lever gets resistance before it reaches the arm.. that helps "lock" the lever in place.. IF your saw was upgraded to the newer style it would have the set screw in it and just needs adjusted.. IF no set screw and your tension lever just flops freely all the way down to the arm then you need to replace the cam.. I'd recommend upgrading to the new style so you can adjust it. Anyway here is the video link. I'm going to edit this reply shortly with some pictures of the set screw and the updated kit pictures on my saw etc. This photo is of the set screw.. notice the screw is right in line of the tension lever.. this is the bottom of the upper arm.. This is a photo of the updated cam kit with the new style removable blade clamp / holder. This is installed on my 1993 220VS.. This is a photo of the lever on the 220VS with the updated kit and properly adjusted.. the lever stops right here and then you push it down to the arm to "lock" it. This is a photo of the back wedge on the 220VS.. Note the wedge rides right on the arm itself.. This is the wedge on my BM 226VS.. Note the wedge rides on the round insert that when worn can be easily replaced.. rather than having to send in the arm and have it machined. This is the 226VS Ultra front blade holder.. it is a 1998 saw and has the older style upper cam and clamp.. however they did add the replaceable cam and set screw to this but once this wears out I'll upgrade to the new one like I did on the 220VS. Just another angle of the 226VS clamp

Ha ha ha.... Paul, you can't kid me...I have been to your house several times and I have never heard you mention having dragon meat on the menu. How can you possibly know you like dragon ? Can't kid me Dick heppnerguy

What you’re using for "practice" is fine, but when you move into things to keep the Baltic birch is the gold standard to use. If you want to avoid solvents to remove glue you can cover your wood with clear shelf liner (eg Contact brand or similar) instead of painter's tape. Spray the adhesive on the pattern and fix to the wood. The contact paper comes off without leaving a residue and doesn’t lift the wood fibers. If you don’t have a local source for Baltic birch you can buy it online from a number of places (Woodcraft, Rockler, and Cherry Tree come to mind and I’m sure there are others). Although I haven’t tried it myself I’ve heard that Purebond plywood is also good for scrolling.

The only time I use painter's tape is if I am stack cutting... and even then I usually only tape around the edges to hold the stacked pieces together... I use spray adhesives like 3M 77. I spray the back of the pattern and attach it directly to the wood... To remove after cutting, I wipe Mineral spirits over the pattern and them lift the pattern off. Use some more mineral spirits to wipe off any glue residue.. I scroll Baltic Birch plywood except if I am using solid wood, not plywood.. You cannot get Baltic Birch plywood at most big box stores like Home Depot or Lowes... I get mine at the local Windsor Plywood or an unfinished furniture store amd lots of lumberyards carry it. It is getting hard to find Baltic Birch, you can order it off the interne from places like Ocooch Hardwoods, Cherokee woods and lots of places that carry scroll saw patterns, and supplies..

Checking prices and when I found this, I had to check my stock on hand. On Amazon, the prices range from 11 to 16 dollars a can. I have used 3M super 77 and Elmers as well over the years, but considering the price and effectiveness, this is best in my opinion. https://www.menards.com/main/paint/adhesives-glue-tape/adhesive/spray-adhesives/loctite-reg-general-performance-spray-adhesive-13-5-oz/1408027/p-1444432318712-c-7923.htm?tid=-5339201913862397164&ipos=2