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Bonjour tout le monde I had an idea when I saw the bat sign on the web. What do you think? (I'm not good at painting) Eric

What a week! An amazing 2 days at Autumn Topsail with near record sales and 22 custom orders kept me busy this week. Every breed of dog you can imagine... a Basenji? Sure! A Wheaten Terrier? You bet! A Dalmation? But of course! Any breed, any size. Check out the oversized Aussie that was requested. I have so much fun making these things. This is just 1/3 of the custom orders I received and cut this week. Now I have to ship them all out.

Many thanks for the replys and help!

I got the pattern from Gayle at scroller cafe. I did the cutting, staining and applied the finish and then my wife took over. Here is the result.

Layered 1/8 inch on 1/8. Some of the pieces small to paint so better half going to try an paint next time but not layered.

Steve Goods pattern but different thickness 3/4" marine ply and 1/4" oak with shaped base in ply. Roly

Short answer......NOPE!

This one sold before I even posted it on my Facebook Page.

There is no easy way, but there are a lot of ways to get it done. First is using quality wood. Weather you are using a good plywood, soft wood or hardwood, you need to sand the blanks before you scroll. I use a random orbital sander for this. Depending on the smoothness of the wood, I’ll start with 100 grit. Then 180, then 220. This is fairly standard in wood working. After you have done your scrolling, you can touch up your cuts with 220 grit sand paper. Either with a folded piece of sand paper or sand paper attached to a sanding block. For clean cuts, you need to use a good quality blade. Most scrollers use reverse tooth blades. The bottom teeth face upwards to help clean the fuzzies. Once you find the right blades, and your cutting improves, you will need very little, if any sanding on the cuts.

Glad you got them a little early. Looking forward to your test.

The OP's question is so vague it almost does not warrent an answer. Everything others have said is all true but there are so many different sanding and finishing processes it is impossible to be sure what answer is appropriate. In this world of Scrolling there are so many different type projects from flat fretwork to sculptured projects. all requiring different sanding methods and equipment. Then there is associated wood working like making frames which also requires sanding and finishing. And , of course, the project wood being used can dictate the appropriate sanding and finishing process. Yes hand sanding is often necessary, especially for very final finishing and between applications of finishing materials slike Lacquer and Polyurethane.. However, the use of many different power sanding equipment is also useful and appropriate during the actual wood working process. Hand held random orbital sanders, belt sanders, spindel sanders, disk sanders sanding mops, rotary tool sanding drumbs and more are very common sanders used by most of us.

Here is an expansion to the short answer....

+1 on short answer.

A while back I got into making military emblem plaques for members of my surrounding family that has served... I really enjoyed the little project and all that received them seemed to be really appreciative... I made 4 USMC ones because I wanted to ensure I had enough that I had one for myself... Well that did not work out.... next thing I knew all emblems were gone.. none for Papa.. So,, I made another just for me... Got it done today.. It will go on my wall above my computer desk... I made some enhancement for myself... I increased the size by 20%. The original ones were a little over 7" in diameter,,, mine is 10". I also I increased the size of the "Semper Fidelis" an additional 5% so I could scroll it. On the others I used decal because it was too small for me to scroll. On mine I have about 10 coats of "Gloss" finish on the center part,,, with sanding to 15K grit. between coats... I wanted it to shine. The reat is about 5 coats of simi-gloss. This is the results... First picture is comparison in size, not sure why the Navy one looks so out of round.. it is not... the second is a better picture of mine... I am thinking of making more as time allows, just to give out when the occasion calls for it.. Trust me.. they are well received... I don't think I have made much of anything that seemed to mean so much to the person receiving it....

Hello Everyone, As you know I am a beginner but I am showing my latest work so that you can give me your advice to improve myself. The bells are for (maybe) the Christmas tree. it's plywood. The three circles are just an exercise. I used apple wood for this. Thank you soo much. Eric

My daughter asked me to build a changing table on 1 August after the one she bought from Amazon broke as they started to assemble it. Of course I said yes but couldn't start it until mid-August and so spent anywhere from 4 to 10 hours a day in the shop. I wasn't able to finish it before my granddaughter arrived on 1 Oct but I finally delivered it last night. There are 28 mortise and tenon joints, 4 sets of hand cut dovetails, and 6 scroll work pieces adapted from Steve Goode's patterns (daughter asked me to use fairies in the design). There's also a LED light in the back with a dimmer so they doesn't have to use the overhead light at night. Changing Table Front by Scott Baker, on Flickr Changing Table Front with rear light by Scott Baker, on Flickr

Finally had a chance to work on the King. I tried turning the motor like suggested, a bit of trial and error but I managed to eliminate about 60%of the vibration. As I learn more about the saw I might do better down the line. There does seem to be a sweet spot at about 70% speed. I know it'll take time to dial it in, but I gotta say I'm quite impressed so far. I do gotta say it's much easier to square the table with the blade than my P-20. A huge thanks to everyone who responded to this thread, the information helped a ton. Chris

I know it is expensive, but I use a Sand Flee on almost every project. And like Scrappile, I also use a Mac Mop.

I sand the wood before attaching the pattern and cutting. Gives me a bit of a head starrt at least. Then once cut its just a light sanding type thing before paint. My pieces are made up of really small pieces so it still sucks to sand them all but I like a smoother finish. I just do it by hand with a piece of folded sandpaper.

Since started scrollsawing last december, i bought a small band disk sander , a belt / spindle sander and over $200 of sandpaper to fit new machines. A mop sander. Accessories for drill /rotary tools for sanding. I already had palm vibrating sander. If you walk through wood specialty stores , rockler or woodcrafter , they have a good portion of the store for sanding. Another big portion is finishing stains and protection. So yes this concept of getting away from hand sanding is always a big topic in industry. When I use the big belt sander or the small band sander I always accidently touch areas of the piece that already sanded. So I have to redo that area, it becomes a cycle. So i end up hand sanding those areas. But those machine can save alot of time. Mark

The bird is a great accent

Thank you very much for your appreciationsand for your few words in French

Merci !

I have several belt sanders in assorted sizes disk sanders - rarely used drum sanders spindle sanders sanding mops rotary tools with a large assortment of attachments With all of this, I still need to do some hand sanding.

Not necessasarily.Not necessarily. When making small items, it is easier and faster to sand after the piece is cut. Less area to sand, and I have to sand the fuzzies off anyway.

Yup, I have them on my DeWALT. And of course, they are on my Pegas Saw. I love them!

Will I use a Mac Mop on my lathe to sand even the most fragile of my fret cuttings....... I do not run at this speed,,, but I do use them. I have three grits... 120, 180. 240. I use the the 120 most and it produces a smooth finish equal to 220 grit.. I need to talk to these people the do not really show all the advantages... I use it to get a good smooth finish and to remove almost all the "frizzes" . Been using them for year.. they will last longer than I live..

I've been really looking into those. I read the Steve Good review. I was really on the fence, but I think I will pull the trigger on them and get them ordered next week.

Very well done for the squids and jarheads… this is coming from a zoomie

Thanks all for the suggestions. I'm hoping to get a chance this weekend to do some more work with the King. Who knows, this may even replace my Delta as my primary saw. Chris

Blades showed up today, mail was quick as they were saying Saturday by the tracking number.. Nothing to do with PS Wood since they got them mailed out next day.. Not sure if I'll get a chance to try them until next week or not..

Fun cut. Bought a file on Etsy for making shirts, decals, etc. and was able to make it scrollable. Love this character. Didn't end well for him in the movie though.

I don't remember where I found this pattern, I used 1/4" Oak, semi gloss poly, and I had the clock from awhile back. It's 11x9x3 1/2" I had to make some saw dust putty for a few mistakes so I used it from some old oak barn wood. That was a big mistake, it ended up drying very dark, almost black and now I have to hide it somehow. I have the wood so I might do it in walnut but I have nowhere to put it either so we'll see. I'll probably give it to a lady at work to give another lady she knows. Thanks for looking.