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At last I cut something new, worth posting the pics not the best. I used my phone in bright light It is not a brag I cut this nativity set and primed it so that the kids at St Mary's Primary School, can bring it to life with a bit of colour.

New project I just finished. Pattern available at Wooden Teddy Bear.

Sue Mey recently advertised several patterns like this one. I like it. The base, being cedar, just seems to add to it. The top part is, I think birch, I put linseed oil on front and back, but back really didn't change much in color. Used 0 size spiral! Guess I could have darken the room more to show the lights better. Oh well.

Quick cut of a cross and dove from reclaimed cherry cabinetry. #7 Olson reverse tooth. 14 inches tall. just under 3/4 inch thick.

A two sided ornament. When you paint both sides they are the same except opposite. I stack cut in 1/8 BB. My own pattern.

These sell really well pattern in the Christmas pattern I believe. Roly

Getting ready for Christmas! Cut from 1/2" sassafras, 2 coats of Waterlox, and patterns by Sheila Landry.

A friend bought one of these made out of steel for his garden and asked if I could do one out of wood for the house. Mmm, not to my taste, but he liked it. I think they plan on painting the stars Gold/Silver and put Ferrero Rocher around the base.

I was visiting with my brother today (61st birthday) and I finally got a picture of the eagle I cut for him 30 odd years ago. 1/4" plywood, oak stain, cut with my first saw; 13" craftsman knock off of a Dremel. 3" pin end blades 25 teeth per inch:

Common,,, who has a hair dryer in their shop,,and who has the bravery to use their wife's... I use my $9. Harbor Freight heat gun that I have had for years and years...

I'm not sure exactly what would be "the best" finish but, I will say I highly doubt a "top coat" finish would hold up without being damaged in some way. Top coat meaning clear sprays or clear coats.. I would think maybe the best option would be a oil type finish such as BLO or Danish oil etc.. I'm far from being any expert in finishing so maybe someone will add to what I have suggested..

Google Corner chisels and you will get a few to check out. from about twenty dollars and up to over a hundred, depending how deep your pockets are.

Actually, the question was vague because 1) I dont have the knowledge to make it more specific. I an VERY new to woodworking and don't know what else I should have added to get better 'help' and 2) Because it gives me a very wide range of answers. Lets say for example, I give every tiny bit of detail. Wood I am using, pattern, speed of saw, type of blade, current humidity, current temperature, time it takes me to cut, examples of what I did, time of day, etc, and I got a response that says "Use this method" Then if anything changed, I would need to come back and ask again, "Well I am doing the exact same thing, but I am cutting on poplar this time instead of oak.. Should I change my sanding method?" with a wide range of answers like what I am getting, I gain more knowledge. See, for example, I just learned I need help with blade selection.. I thought those fuzzies were normal..

I am working on a project and decided to mount it in a rectangle one piece frame. I set up my bit and bearing in my router for the rabbet and all went well except the corners where the bearing does not allow a 90degree cut. I used a small chisel and exacto knife but the corners are not especially good looking. Any tips or suggestions? Is there a tool for finishing the corners? Thanks in advance for any help.

When you get too much wax in the nooks and crannies use a hair dryer and melt it.. the air pressure from the hair dryer will blow the melted drips off the back side so have a paper towel down for easier cleanup.. I used to use this mix on all my clocks and ornaments.. hair dryer works well for that excess..

I made this walnut and Maple trivet about 16 years ago and it's holding up well. I just used blo/mineral spirits at 50/50.

I first dip my trivets in mineral oil. Then set on a rack to drip for a few days. Then I wipe off and then wipe with a mineral oil and beeswax mix. Wait overnight and buff. Mine has been on my table and in use for a few years. Too much beeswax in that mix and you will find yourself picking dry wax out of all the nook and crannies. I do a similar process for cutting boards. Only more mineral oil and more soaking.

There is high temp paint available, but I think it only comes in Black. I don't really think wood Trivets are intended to be used as a hot pads although they do sell bamboo trivets for that reason. As Kevin said, mayybe just a oil finish would be the best after a fairly long drying time. I know I can stand hot pans directly out of the oven on my cutting boards that are just protected by cutting board oil with out scorching. Edit: Google says oil based varnish and polyurethane is resistant to heat...but I not betting it won't scorch if the pan is toooo hot.

Or worse!

Just don't try peeing in it,

I bought my Pegas saw from Denny and now he gets most of my business for blades and other equipment, but I do have one thing I should make everyone aware of. I think he got the LED magnifier lamp he sent from the toilet seat row in the plumbing department at Home Depot. See pictures below.

This is Nova, from Planet of the Apes. If you're not familiar, she was named for the chrome Nova logo like this one that she liked. In this picture she is riding horseback behind Caesar the head ape, carrying a handmade doll that ends up playing a huge part in the demise of the evil Woody Harrelson. 1/2" red oak, about 8" X 10".

I apologize for my response I made... Maybe I didn't read into it well enough. I'm glad you came back and responded so we know you're still here. We go through spells here where a newer person ask a vague question and then disappear.. Those many times can be consider spammers or fishers for info.. People take time to respond and you get no response back from them.. not even the little heart emoji things so IF a question is asked and then it seems a few days go by with no response I don't put in my answer.. because many times I'm probably responding to space. There is a emoji thing at the bottom of each post / reply it's a heart thing at the bottom.. click on it and there is a drop down menu you can choose different emoji icons, the purple one is a thank you.. using these can help people know you're still following the topic and haven't disappeared. Might help from getting smartass replies like mine.. Now for a better response.. now that I know you are looking for many various methods of sanding.. For flat work like portraits all the way down to small ornaments etc.. all being flat work.. I have a sanding matt that I use.. I buy the non-slip shelf liner stuff from the dollar stores it's in a roll and I fold it up to the size I need rather than cutting it to the size of my sanding work.. This gives it more cushion and anti slip power. Almost all my sanding is done with a 5" random orbital sander.. A variable speed one is a must so you can slow it down for delicate pieces. Honestly all my scroll work is flat work. I don't like sanding so I've not done much of the "shaping" type of scroll work. I do have a spindle sander for doing various sanding but it really don't get used hardly enough to justify the space it takes up in my shop, LOL

Calipers are one of the most useful tools in my shop. I have several different sizes and types. They are one of those tools that you don't realize how useful they are until you own one.

I got the pattern from Gayle at scroller cafe. I did the cutting, staining and applied the finish and then my wife took over. Here is the result.

Did these for my neighbors last year. This year they will get Christmas subjects. Added this one to my collection that I hang on my house this time of year.

So, I have seen several different methods of attaching your pattern to the wood. So far I am using the painters tape and glue method.. I attach painters tape to the wood, and glue the pattern using white glue to the painters tape. But I find that pulls some of the wood up, at least on the wood I am using. I really would like to learn some additional methods. Now, as far as wood. So far I an kinda in "practice mode" as I just started using this thing (first project came out really nice I think) so I have been using 1/4" thick flooring underlay (See picture) as its nice and thin (the kind of work I wanna get into) and very cheap. But can't help but think there are better options out there. But when I went to my local big box hardware store, I didn't know what to ask for, so the guy kinda looked at me like I was from mars when I tried to explain what I wanted. Is there a better "practice" wood? And what should I start to get when I want to start making some really nice stuff?

Maybe your heat gun works better than mine.. I have the cheapest one HF offered at the time.. low is hot enough to melt the wax.. but doesn't blow enough air to blow the melted wax out of the nooks and crannies. Put it on high and you can start a fire with it, LOL.. so in my case.. the hair drier work best for that job.. Just wish HF would sell hair dryers.. lots of weird looks at the bald guy in the beauty store buying a hair dryer.. SO with all the weird looks I went back to the hair spray.. That have a brand called "Big Sexy Hair".. so I bought that too.. at the register I mentioned I didn't know they had "big sexy hair in a can but I couldn't wait to try it and show the wife her new man with big sexy hair.. Everyone on the store was laughing for some reason.. and once I got home I realized that the big sexy hair was just pattern glue.. should have taken it back for faulse advertising as there was no hair in the can I got..LOL

Those are really, really nice... Darn I wish I could get the spirit.... I'm usually making the annual family ornaments by now,,,but it just has not hit me yet..

The recommendations are what somebody else thinks might work best for you and it is a starting place if you don't already know. But the bottom line is to use what works best for you. Sometimes it takes a bit of trial and error to find out what that is.

Your experience is the same for me.. I've never had good results from any of the skip tooth blades.. Someone years ago suggested I use skip tooth on a project I was working on.. back then I was normally using FD-UR.. and I found that they did cut better for me the the skip tooth.. Now days I use mostly Pegas.. and mostly the #3.. For me the kerf of a #5 is that much more material to remove for the blade and many times making the cut go slower than just going through with the #3 and taking it slow as to not bow the blade.. I agree with Dan.. on the blade selection.. everyone has to find that blade that works for them.. The way the saw is set up makes a huge difference too.. when I first started using Pegas MFG blades I couldn't use them on my DeWalt but loved them in my Hawk.. I eventually got used to using them with whatever saw but at first on the DW they was a bit aggressive.. For these reasons.. In those topics of what blades to use.. I always suggest sample packs of each style blade.. I will say what my blade of choice is.. but always suggest sample packs..

Bonjour tout le monde I had an idea when I saw the bat sign on the web. What do you think? (I'm not good at painting) Eric

My grandson spent a couple of weeks visiting us from Oregon. He mentioned that he was wanting somethings for his girlfriend for Christmas and she was a big unicorn person. I had him look through some of my patterns and he came up with the unicorn clock, which it a Steve Good pattern. I printed out the pattern and quickly realized that the one size clock I had in my drawer was too large for the pattern as it was printed. I enlarged it so that the clock with fit. He watched me cut and finish the clock and was able to take it home with him the following day. It is made from a piece of 3/4 inch Poplar I had in my wood supply. He wanted it finished with lemon Oil so he could take it home with him in the morning. I was not particularly excited about the simplicity of the pattern but he was one excited guy when it was finished. He even called it 'perfect'. Who am I to argue with my customers? He said he did not wish to have the base as it was just exactly what he wanted. Dick heppnerguy

drill a hole through down in the recess. tie a knot in a piece of string and run it up through. or thread it through from the top then tie the knot.tie a loop on the and after stringing through the hole for a hook. a little dab of CA glue down in the recess will wold the string in place.

terrific job

Shadow Wizard Take a look at this web site. Sheila is also in Canada and has information about different types of woods and blades among other helpful topics. I believe she still uses Olson blades. Free Pattern & Resources - Sheila Landry Designs Other blade manufacture to consider Flying Dutchman | Mike's Workshop – Mike's Workshop | Flying Dutchman Scroll Saw Blades (mikesworkshop.com) Pegas Scroll Saw (artcraftersonline.com) which is the website of a member here Denny Knappen . Hope this helps. Mark

1st paragraph. In general, yes. Your mileage may vary. 2nd paragraph. Kerf, a slit made by the cutting of a saw.

Rob, I can't see where you're from on your profile. Are you in the US? Anyway, your next purchase should be a fractional caliper (this style of caliper will allow you to accurately measure the thickness of the blade and the width of the blade) and, if you set the caliper to 1 inch, you can count the teeth per inch (TPI). My caliper allows me to measure in fractions and in thousandths of an inch. This allows me to accurately measure blades, drill bits, dowels (toothpicks are 5/64s) wood blanks, plywood, etc. The rule of thumb is, the thicker the wood the larger the blade and the tighter the turns the smaller the blade, so it's a balancing act. Additionally, it appears that your saw is a ridged arm saw with a spring tension device (as opposed to a constant tension saw). Your saws design limits somewhat what you can cut. If the kerf clogs with sawdust of if you turn too tight a radius or if the grains pulls your blade, it will have undesirable results (the blade can bind or catch and bend inside the cut). You will have to make test cuts and practice a bit with new material and or new patterns. Here is a link to the Olson chart: https://www.olsonsaw.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/2020-scroll-chart-WEB.pdf

He made me smile too. Lovely little fellow. Well done Don. Marg

Beautiful. Lovely pattern and cutting. Marg

Love him. Have you changed the pattern slightly, because I think mine looks different. Marg

Beautiful. Excellent work. I think that's one of the patterns that I got recently. Marg

Fantastic job, Ron.

Very nice!!!

Exactly!!! and why I have not put in my 2cents yet.. maybe OP will not come back to respond either.. Also correct blade selection for said project can make the difference of "needing" to sand or not.. Saw dialed in with proper blade alignment also make a world of difference.. I rarely get fuzzies on the back... even with spiral blades.. I pre-sand all my work and rarely have to sand after finishing the project..

I sand the wood before attaching the pattern and cutting. Gives me a bit of a head starrt at least. Then once cut its just a light sanding type thing before paint. My pieces are made up of really small pieces so it still sucks to sand them all but I like a smoother finish. I just do it by hand with a piece of folded sandpaper.

Will I use a Mac Mop on my lathe to sand even the most fragile of my fret cuttings....... I do not run at this speed,,, but I do use them. I have three grits... 120, 180. 240. I use the the 120 most and it produces a smooth finish equal to 220 grit.. I need to talk to these people the do not really show all the advantages... I use it to get a good smooth finish and to remove almost all the "frizzes" . Been using them for year.. they will last longer than I live..

It’s a Steve Good pattern. Go to his site and it is under Halloween patterns.

Got some birds right here lol: Thanks as always in advance for reading

I did finish it up after this photo was taken, added some black tacks around the edge of the scrolled piece to help hold it in place and to make it look less like it was just glued on. I got the tacks from Lowes, but they can be found at any hardware store. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-2-oz-5-8-in-Black-Cut-Tack/3036042