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A friend bought one of these made out of steel for his garden and asked if I could do one out of wood for the house. Mmm, not to my taste, but he liked it. I think they plan on painting the stars Gold/Silver and put Ferrero Rocher around the base.

Getting ready for Christmas! Cut from 1/2" sassafras, 2 coats of Waterlox, and patterns by Sheila Landry.

New project I just finished. Pattern available at Wooden Teddy Bear.

Soo, I finally open up the mailer to check out the blades this morning. They come with plastic storage tubes like many of us buy to store our blades which is nice but also if you use a ton of blades eventually you'll be overloaded with those tubes.. other thing to note was they do not come all bundled / wired together.. maybe the larger quantity ones do I don't know.. Sadly I could use a couple (3) storage tubes to put in the slots on the Excaliburs onboard blade holder holes but these tubes was to large to fit.. First run on the blades today stack cutting 4 1/8" stacks BBply of ornaments. As many of you know the glue in plywood is tough on saw blades.. I normally can cut two sets of ornaments from a Pegas #3 or #5.. but usually toward the end of the second stack the blade is getting quite dull and should be changed.. I usually just push on through but sometimes change it before the second set is complete. Anyway the #2 super sharps are definitely sharp and last longer.. I was able to cut 3 sets of ornaments and possibly could have done slightly more but it definitely was not tracking turns etc. as well nearing the end of the second stack so I really was pushing the blade beyond for the 3rd set.. Longer lasting than the Pegas but maybe only by 10-15%... Cut was nice and smooth along the sides of the cut.. bottom piece not so much.. since there is no reverse teeth there will be much needed sanding of fuzzies.. in most cases with the Pegas blades little to no sanding after the cut due to me normally pre-sanding.. Did a test cut with the #5 cutting same stacked material and not at all impressed.. The #5 seemed to cut slower than a #5 Pegas and was giving me some tare out on the bottom.. I think they would probably work well with solid lumber but just guessing on that as I haven't tried yet.. probably won't be working with any solid lumber for a while as my return customers are starting to order their large quantity ornament orders.. just got a 150 pcs order last night so.. that'll take be about 3 - 3.5 days of cutting BBply, LOL I wouldn't say they are a definite no use blade for my works but for the added price and a cleaner cut from Pegas I'll continue with Pegas...

One of the first pieces I ever done was the Lords prayer Over the years I've cut about 10 of them Shown here are 2 of them,the third is one I came across while on holiday in dingle,Ireland this summer

At last I cut something new, worth posting the pics not the best. I used my phone in bright light It is not a brag I cut this nativity set and primed it so that the kids at St Mary's Primary School, can bring it to life with a bit of colour.

Quick cut of a cross and dove from reclaimed cherry cabinetry. #7 Olson reverse tooth. 14 inches tall. just under 3/4 inch thick.

Well, not a common practice to make frames out of a solid piece of wood,, I know it is done,,, but not common... If I did,,, I could round the corners of the picture on my belt sander in less than 30 seconds.. Or cut the rabbet wide enough that the picture fits without rounding the corners.. And Frank,, you are welcome in my house anytime... but don't go taking any pictures off the wall to see how I did the rabbets...

Bought 20 of Steves Name Onament PATTERNs to CUT AND give out to family and friends. Cut twenty by stack cutting 5 at a time from scrap 5/32" solid core Maple and Birch ply. While in stack, only cut the basic pattern leaving the enclosed name area uncut. Stack cut only two of the nativity ornament. After all were cut, went back and individually added the pattern for each name. Funny thing is I did cut 20, but as you can see in the pic, there is only 19. NOW 20. Looked everywhere and can not find number 20...have no idea wher I put it FOUND HIM, MUST HAVE JUMPED INTO MY SCRAP PILE...they say "memory is the second thnig that goes when you get old" and I can't even remember what the first thing is! I guess number 20, "Gregory" won't be getting his. HE DID NOT MELT AWAY!!! Front and back painted white with rattle can spray paint. Added colors in Artist Acrylics and coated all with clear gloss Polyurethane. Not my best work and the paint work is sloppy....hopefully they will be hung deep iwithin the branches of their Christmas trees. Enjoy. You are welcome to comment but I'll be my own critic for these. EDITED TO INCLUDE GREGORY #20 And, BTW, now I have to order, cut and paint 10 more....me bad, forgot my ladies family!!

I was happy to hear that I was right. Thanks. I pretty much found the same. I was cutting a stack of 1/4" walnut & maple 4 plies thick. The Pegas #5mgt did a much better job and was more steerable.

Think that I posted pics of this before, but it fits here.

One piece frame....yikes, what a waste of a nice wide piece of wood. Yep, corner chisel would work well, but a good sharp regular chisel should have done a perfectly adequate job since the rabbet is on the back side of the frame. Beside you, who will see it? Invest in a, or build your own, precise miter sled for your table saw. That, along with a good sharp finish saw blade will give you nice accurate miters and you can make good looking frames of all types and sizes.

Hi all. We had a big software update. I've been kicking this can down the road for the last few months because it's been so crazy at work. I was about 3 software updates behind. Anyway, just like normal, let me know if you see anything strange or isn't behaving the way it should.

Aww, but you can do such pretty things with the router.

Nice job, Frank. I'm sure the family will be most appreciative. By the way, did you find a wet spot on the floor after you were finished cutting? Maybe "Gregory" melted!

Well, got some more time on the King and I must admit I'm very impressed with thus saw. As much as I hate to admit it , it's quite a step up from my P-20. I would have never believed that anything could beat the Delta but I'm finding that the King is as easy on blade changing, and with top feed setting the bottom of the blade ,for me is as easy as the Delta. I'm thinking that the King will be my main saw, go figure Chris

I typically make frames using 4 pieces that are mitered and have a rabbet cut, but sometimes use the router to cut the rabbet after the frame is glued together. I either round the panel that is going in or use chisels to make the corner square. since it is on the back, perfection isn't necessarily my goal.

It's 50% BLO ( Boiled Linseed Oil ) and 50% Mineral Spirits which is almost the same thing as Watco Danish Oil.. Danish oil does have a bit of polyurethane and some dryers added to it for a bit ( supposedly ) more protection against the elements.. Both probably excellent for the intended purpose of the trivet.. If you have either already on hand.. Good luck with it, Maybe some pictures of the finished piece?

Only here on the Village that someone starts a thread about finishing a craft and we end talking about hair and beards. Gotta love this group. Good advice on what finish to use BTW. Fab4

Goodwill has used hairdryers cheap.

I Did see a product from a place called Yandles but from the UK.

I have had my HF heat gun from way back when my son and I were into RC airplanes... I built them he flew them.... He was round 12 at the time we got in to it.. I used it to heat shrink the mylar covering for the planes. He is now retired Navy after 22 years and flying for FedEx for the past 5 or so years.,, so mine is old... Doesn't get a lot of use anymore But I still drag it out on occasion. And he just this year got back into RC planes... A whole lot has changed since we first started... The radio and controls are now so sophisticated compared to the old days..

Common,,, who has a hair dryer in their shop,,and who has the bravery to use their wife's... I use my $9. Harbor Freight heat gun that I have had for years and years...

Must admit to having my frames in 4 pieces, router my rabbet and then put the mitred ends together. Perhaps cutting to within an inch or two from the corner and then finishing with a sharp chisel would work.

A two sided ornament. When you paint both sides they are the same except opposite. I stack cut in 1/8 BB. My own pattern.

The cuttings look super John, the kids will love them and have a good time coloring them. Post pictures after the coloring. What type of wood did you use?

These sell really well pattern in the Christmas pattern I believe. Roly

I would use my scrollsaw for that. Much less mess & noise. But you did a fantastic job on that.

fantastic job

Looks good Brenda and I like the chocolates idea. Well done.

That's the smallest and most pieces on any project. You did a fantastic job.

Great project. Looks super.

What a great idea. Nice cutting and a great project for the kids.

Never liked shaving with an electric razor... but I only shave a couple times a week.. on my neck and around my beard... A blade lasts me for months... I have only had a beard since 1966.... some day I may shave it.. but I am afraid my wife and nobody else in the family would know me...

Very nice work and awesome thing to do. "Good on ya, Mate!"

Nicely done!

Wow! That's cool looking! Nice job.

Very nice,,, and very different...

The recommendations are what somebody else thinks might work best for you and it is a starting place if you don't already know. But the bottom line is to use what works best for you. Sometimes it takes a bit of trial and error to find out what that is.

Your experience is the same for me.. I've never had good results from any of the skip tooth blades.. Someone years ago suggested I use skip tooth on a project I was working on.. back then I was normally using FD-UR.. and I found that they did cut better for me the the skip tooth.. Now days I use mostly Pegas.. and mostly the #3.. For me the kerf of a #5 is that much more material to remove for the blade and many times making the cut go slower than just going through with the #3 and taking it slow as to not bow the blade.. I agree with Dan.. on the blade selection.. everyone has to find that blade that works for them.. The way the saw is set up makes a huge difference too.. when I first started using Pegas MFG blades I couldn't use them on my DeWalt but loved them in my Hawk.. I eventually got used to using them with whatever saw but at first on the DW they was a bit aggressive.. For these reasons.. In those topics of what blades to use.. I always suggest sample packs of each style blade.. I will say what my blade of choice is.. but always suggest sample packs..

That’s the problem with recommending blade types and sizes. What works for me, might not work for you. I cut the miniature birdhouses out of many types of wood. I have used Mahogany, Cherry, Alder, Maple, walnut and even pine and cedar. . They all take a different blade size. For me, I prefer Flying Dutchman Polar blades in sizes 3, 5 and 7. For the hardest woods, I might even use. #9. But that might not work for everyone. You have found a blade that works for you, but for me, it doesn’t work. That’s why it’s up to you to figure what works for you! I have made hundreds of the miniature birdhouses for craft shows. I don’t list them on my Etsy store because each one is different. I can’t imagine posting thirty or fourty different bird houses. The same thing with ornaments.

Like BadBob said, Oak breaks easily. And 1/4" wood is nice for scrolling, but more prone to breaking. If you are still practicing and learning the hobby, I suspect you will be happier with Poplar than with Oak. But Oak does look nice and might be the right wood for a specific project.

Can't really argue with that logic. Just seems to be less adhesive/clean up when I use the shelf liner.

Fuzzies are normal. You can reduce them a lot by your blade choice and some techniques. You can't eliminate them 100% of the time.

I find them good for thick wood like compound cuts.

When I bought my first used Ex21 I got a ton of blades with it. A good amount of them were the PS blades in all sizes. I had heard that they were supposed to be the "cat's rearend" so I looked forward to trying them. I had been using Pegas #5mgt on 1 1/2" mahogany compound cuts. I was disappointed in how they worked so I went back to my Pegas blades. I was not impressed.

Olsen make the precision ground blades in their PGT series blades.. they are awesome blades but have a draw back for me.. one being the smallest size is a #5 and second is the blade ends are larger than the rest of the blade so you have to have a pretty good size hole to drill which is fine on some projects but useless if doing veining type stuff.. I'm curious what I will get with these super sharps..

I see a limited size selection... From the smallest #2 they jump to a #5,, I rarely use anything larger than a #3 and often smaller than a #2. I did not see spirals listed... maybe I missed them..

I've never heard of that brand of blades.