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Just completed the star to go on top of the Xmas tree and some decos to go with it. The star is double sided. I have given the deputies and office staff a decoration. Will take a pic of the tree when completed. It is going to be used at "The lighting of the Xmas Tree"street party on the 4th. Cheers all

A few new ones I finished up and finally took some photo's of them. The Cheetah is by Russ Beard, the hawk is one by Ian Thorley, the crow is by Kenny Hopkins and the LA Kings helmet is by Jeffery Flick. Thanks to all you pattern designers for letting me have so much fun. The Cheetah, LA Kings and Crow are done in 1/8 A-4 oak plywood. The hawk is done in 1/2 inch oak strips that I glued up to make a blank for cutting. All work done with flat blades from a bunch of different manufacturers. All cut on a King Canada 20 inch saw.

After cutting out 180+ Christmas ornaments I needed a change. 3/4" Oak sure cuts differently from stack cutting BB plywood. It was a nice change of pace. A couple of Steve Good's patterns. . .

As you can see, I have caught Car Fever, I have been cutting Cars out, and in doing some research I have found several popular cars that didn't make it on any of the movies, and they have also been turned into Transformers by some loyal fans. So I have begun to make them as well. One of them has a talking dog, and the other one is orange and jumps bridges.

Hello friends, I show you my latest work. I made a modification to the original pattern and made it oval. Measures 12 "tall by 9.5" in 3/4 "pine wood Thank you very much in advance for your comments and I send you a big hug, greetings.

I was looking for a quick piece to cut for a new decoration and I found this one on Steve Good's page and liked it , so here is how it turned out. I only used BB Birch ply so it isn't anything really special but i still enjoyed cutting it and giving it to my wife. Dick heppnerguy

Hello everyone, my job is over and I'm happy with myself (a little)

I'm a professional photographer, and now with a complete digital photo/video studio. I have been taking photos and videos for many years (since high school, and I'm 79 now). It's already been said that lighting is what's most important, and I fully agree. In fact, it's more important to have good lighting than a good camera. For scroll saw projects, you need to have soft lighting with minimum or no glare, and in most cases, minimum to no shadows. For small scroll saw sized work pieces, I use a 24" cube folding light box (shooting tent) and LED light panels lighting the top and both sides of the box. The diffusion fabric of the light box diffuses and spreads the light to eliminate shadows and glare on small projects that I place inside to photograph. The front side of this box is the access panel, and is held closed with Velcro Dots at the top corners. It has a hole in the center for the camera lens. It comes with several colors of back/floor covers, also Velcro attached so it's easy to pick a background/floor color that looks good with your project. With good lighting and one of these folding light boxes, you can set up and take scroll saw project photos almost anywhere, even on the top of your table saw or workbench. The light diffusion of this fabric reduces the need for high quality lighting so most any 3 bright light sources that you can place around and above the light box will do. The LED panels that I use work great, but the aluminum reflector with spring clamp attachment lights and 100 watt light bulbs from the big box stores will work too. Just keep them far enough away to light the full side of the box and also far enough away to keep the heat from the bulbs from damaging the light box. Move them farther away if too bright and closer if not bright enough, but be careful not to overheat the side of the light box from being too close. These light boxes have spring wire frames, so fold down to a 24" X 2" round pancake when not being used, like the kids toys, so storage is very easy. If the cost of one of these light boxes is too much, you can build a wood frame from dowels and corner blocks that you can assemble without glue and pull apart to collapse for storage (think Tinker Toy style). Low priced (New - the cheapest you can find, actually works best) white/white bed sheet material works good for light diffusion fabric, so you can cut up a sheet to make the sides, top, and bottom of the light box from it. White Velcro Dots make it easy to assemble this temporarily and disassemble it for storage too. Small pieces of colored materials can be used to cover the back and floor of this light box to act as a backdrop and floor to display the work. Velcro Dots on the back wall of the box with the mating Velcro Dots on the backdrop fabric panels will make it easy to install and remove these backdrops. I f you, or some family member can sew, have them sew this box to fit your wood frame. Leave the front side attached at the bottom and Velcro attached with Velcro Dots to the top to allow opening and closing this front side of the box. Cutting a hole in the center of the front allows for the camera lens, but I frequently shoot with the whole front of my purchased light box left open. The key is to keep it dark behind you, so only the light coming through the sides and top are lighting the inside of the box. For large items that won't fit in one of these light boxes (like furniture), you will need a suitable backdrop, and larger diffusion of the lights. Photography umbrellas and lights designed for use with them, plus light stands and something to hold the backdrop is going to be needed. New, budget priced bed sheets make acceptable backdrops and light diffusers. The same reflector/spring clamp lights can be used. Clipping a sheet of white typing paper to the top and bottom of the reflector, so the paper forms a U shape will spread the light well and keep the paper far enough away from the bulb to keep it from burning. Since you can't adjust the light brightness, moving the light closer and farther away will work well to adjust the brightness. If you can afford real photo lights, light stands, backdrops, etc. there are complete budget priced and up packages. available from Amazon. If you have little to no experience in photography, one of these with included constant lights will probably be best for you. This one is more than enough, if just getting started and on a tight budget. amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Umbrella-Continuous-LimoStudio/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=15OAK2X0721L0&keywords=portrait+lighting+kit+for+photography&qid=1637511738&qsid=142-0037546-4020453&sprefix=portrait+light%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-3&sres=B005FHZ2SI%2CB08DFMFQJ6%2CB0833X7CZJ%2CB07C27QB1G%2CB07JNDVKK8%2CB094HSCB8F%2CB08RDHC5JG%2CB085VXPW1Q%2CB089SYH1PY%2CB07G3423NQ%2CB019GTCNXC%2CB07FNMHPBJ%2CB018KE5XUO%2CB07L6B667Q%2CB08DG2DDKC%2CB07NBP6D98 You get a lot for $65, but you need space to set it up. Small scroll saw items do better in just a light box with external lights.. With constant lighting, what you see is what you should get in the photo, so you can move the lights to minimize the shadows or adjust them to your liking. Adequate LED lights are still very expensive and not for tight budgets, yet. The spiral fluorescent lights are very good and not very expensive. The white umbrellas become the diffusion material to spread the light source and make it more even with softer edge shadows. You point the top of the white umbrella at your object being photographed and the light shines through it. The black umbrellas with reflective inside require pointing the light toward the inside of the umbrella where it reflects, so the underside of the black umbrellas point to the object being photographed. I can provide more help if anyone needs it, but I think I have already provided more than most can handle for starters.. Charley

Yes it was RJ, sold about 15 puzzles in 5 hours. Jim

Greetings all. I just wanted to do a shout-out to Bushton Manufacturing. Last weekend, I answered a Craigslist ad for a Hawk G4 26" scroll saw, about 1-hour and 45-minutes away from my home. I don't think the price was great, but it wasn't bad either, about 1/3 of a new one. I offered a slightly lower number, and we met in the middle. I drove out to pick up the saw from a very friendly guy who was selling it for his friend's widow. Well, he didn't have much information, but the saw looks like it was in really great condition. He said his friend was meticulous about maintaining and cleaning his machines, so I made sure it powered on, loaded it in my truck, and drove the 1:45 home. After getting it into my shop and futzing with it for a while, I discovered that the saw was A LOT more worn out than expected. The pitman arm was worn out by the lower blade arm, and rattled terribly. The table tilt was broken and had a hard time keeping the table dead flat as there was some minor play in it, and the upper blade holder was cracked at the roll pin, and basically held on with tape. So, the saw was not very usable, and really loud. The saw was also missing the upper arm hold-down lever and blade guard. Neither of which I was going to worry too much about. Well, since I restore antique woodworking machinery, I decided I was going to fix it myself. I called Bushton Manufacturing, and spoke to the very, very nice lady on the phone and gave her a list of parts I needed to make the machine functional again. Bracing myself for a huge number, she gave me the total of something like $24. In my disbelief, I had to ask her again, and it was true. So... I ordered the missing parts, and the counter-weight, in case that was worn out too, but the total was still under $60, shipped. Anyhow, I went ahead and ordered them. She said a couple of the parts had to be manufactured, so there would be a delay in shipping those parts to me. I asked her to just ship them in one box since I wanted to rebuild the saw in one sitting, and it would save them on shipping. Well, 6-days later (today), I get all of the parts i needed and wanted. So, I went down to the shop and went to rebuilding the saw. How such a great saw can be so simple is beyond me. I had the entire saw rebuilt in under an hour. and now, the sucker works as good as new. I made a snowflake on it, and I have to say, this is the best scroll saw I have ever used, and I own quite a few (7 of them for a boy's club, and two vintage machines I restored). Anyhow, I just wanted to give a shout-out (that's what it's still called, right?) to Bushton Manufacturing for their absolute top-notch customer service and their great products. Thanks for putting up with me, Dan

I just use poster board as a back ground and take the pics with a dslr in auto mode. Then I adjust the lighting afterwards. I use paint.net for that. I dont like getting the shine from the piece like with direct lighting or flash, drives me nuts. Might try the cardboard light box idea Kmm has as they are pro's at it.

Thanks very much for the replies, lots of good info. I'm still trying to decide. BTW, I do have a DSLR, but still use my phone at times to get things done quickly.

Jim yours was the only woodworking booth. Liked your setup nice and organized. My wife really liked your puzzles.

Very nice saw. I was looking at saving up for one of those, but as of last week, I am the owner of a "new to me" G4, and after rebuilding it (PO used it heavily), I am very happy with it, so I'm sure you will be as well. Amazing saw. Dan

Not bad Dan, I sold about 15 puzzles. But the show only lasted 5 hours. So like I said it was a small one but I enjoy going to it. Will be doing it again next year. Jim

Was the show a success, RJ

So, how did you do Jim?

Thank you everybody, it was a nice little show (only 20 vendors). No other woodworking that I saw, a lot of jewelry and food items it seemed. Nice meeting you Mark, had a great time talking to you. Thanks again everyone. Jim

I have been busy cutting and painting, I cut a good few days of painting out. Then I spend a few days of painting. If that makes since, I have a few more trucks to cut and paint then I want to start on the Cars from the CARS movie. I believe it was Scrappile who wanted to see a 66 Ford. I hope I did it justice.

Hi Travis As soon as you figure it out Fab4

Thank you Mark, hope to see you again soon. Maybe get together to see how that Hawk of your's is running. Jim

I take all of mine with a cell phone. I recently got the Samsung S21 Ultra and the camera takes amazing pictures. However, the lighting and background are very important as pointed out by several others. I use a royal blue cloth like a bed sheet and have mounted adjustable cheap lights on the ceiling of my shop. I sometimes change between day light and soft white light led bulbs.

very nice work

awesome work

They are Beautiful!!

Clean and crisp. Great work. Marg

As Danny said, very clean cuts. Great job!

Awesome painting skills!

Here it is - another puzzle from Steve Good's patterns. A few minor mishaps but overall I think it looks pretty good for my second attempt at scrolling. Painted this one rather than staining it. FIXED!!

Fun, useful project. I don't know if this is practiced world wide but here in Alabama it's common at a gathering to put your name on a plastic cup with a Sharpie so you can keep up with which cup is yours. Toby Keith has a song about it, "Red Solo Cup." My family usually makes up names. We're headed on a family vacation next week and my wife requested I make one of these. I added the text which is a line from the song. We don't usually have anything stronger than Dr. Pepper in ours.

@Travis We got to 10! Woo Hoo! More is just icing on the cake. Can anybody else help out? Hi Travis, I've contributed in the past, but am in and out of hospital at the minute and that leaves me minimum time and energy to myself. I will however contribute by buying them when they're done. Well Done to all the pattern makers, you do a fabulous job !!!

I will be thinking of you. Too far to drive.

My wife and I are going to stop by the fair today. Good luck today Jim

good luck at the fair

I'd buy your Duramax.

@Rolf Glad for your response .. Always look forward to your in put on Hawk saws..getting pretty old but maybe someday I will get to own one.

Top notch work there. Love the colours.

I've been picking away at it. Things are mostly there. The new area has a gallery, but I did something to the gallery button a few years ago, and I can't remember what I done to undo it....LOL. So I'm trying to figure that out.

Most of Steve Goods patterns are quite simple to cut and often appear to be a complex fret piece but most are not very challenging and often give the end appearance of maybe being most complex then they really are. Dick heppnerguy

Love them all

I have both a lightbox and a backdrop. What you need depends on what you are photographing. My lightbox is barely large enough to shoot a 12-inch item, and sometimes 12 inches will not fit so it is really 8-10 inches. Buy the big lightbox. You will not regret it, but if you buy the little one, you will regret it when something will not fit the first time. Neewer 36x36 inch/90x90 cm Photo Studio Shooting Tent will work for small things. You can cobble something together that will work from poster board and boxes, but what will you do with it after you are done shooting. The lightbox will collapse into a small package the is easy to store. Lighting is the name of the game in photography. If you haven't got the lights right, you are not going to get good results. Please don't waste your money on the little tabletop lights they sell on Amazon. I used LED Floodlights in clamp-on lamps for a while. It worked, but they were a pain to set up and adjust. I still use the floodlight bulbs, but now I use light stands and white umbrellas to diffuse the light. They are easy to adjust, and I can use them anywhere. Light stands are cheap. The LED flood light cost more than the stands. More light is better. Natural light can work, but you can't control it. I'm going to ne using this today: Aluminum LightPhotography Tripod Stand with Case - Pack of 2 Emart Light Bulb Stand, E26 / E27 AC Socket Lamp Holder with Umbrella Holder Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting GE Lighting LED Bright Stik Light Bulb, 15-Watt They don't sell the flood lights I have anymore but these will probably work fine and if they don't you can use them in your shop or home. Just make sure you get daylight LEDs 5000K-6500K and as many lumens as you can. If I were to do it today, I would skip the tent and go with a white fabric backdrop, light stands, and white umbrellas. One tough thing for me to learn was that white backgrounds are not white. They are pale gray. Paper is the same, but it gets graded according yo how white the paper is. The whiter the paper the more it costs.

Wow! Nice! I'm glad you were looking for something easy. Lord knows what you would have picked if it had been something difficult. Apparently I'm cutting way to slow because that would have taken me a couple days working nonstop.

All of my pictures are done in a light box that I have set up in the loft of my shop. I originally bought a medium sized fold up deal with tripod lights.. was made of cloth material and had a spring wire frame. The kit came with several colored backdrops that Velcro in place. Was an "okay" set up.. I didn't like the cloth because it'd get wrinkles in it and make shadows etc. Fast forward a few years. I got real high end set up and would never go back to a high price purchased item again.. So what I have now is simply a cardboard box that was free at the local Michaels store. I cut out windows in the sides of the box and taped in white tissue paper ( stuff people use to cover / wrap a gift in a gift bag ).. For the backdrop I bought a poster board and taped it to the back top side of the box and let it drape down naturally. I then used the lights from the purchased kit I had.. Not all poster board is created equal but all of them will work. I found I like the little more pricey one that is made more of plastic or? because you can wipe it down if it gets a dirt smudges on it.. Any spec of dust / dirt on a white and taking high resolution photos shows up bad so being in my loft sometimes gets some dust etc. Wiping it on a white paper can smear mark it.. The cheaper poster board is harder to clean than the better one is my point.. I made this as a temporary photo box about 8 years ago.. my intention was to build a wood framed one that's larger and more durable.. But as you can see I never did that.. maybe never will because a free box is way cheaper than even scrap wood to build one, LOL.. I do want a larger one for the larger items ( signs ) that I'll be doing on my CNC.. But this smaller one works perfect for most my scrolled stuff.