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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/27/2021 in all areas
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Commission work done
namunolie and 8 others reacted to scrollerpete for a topic
9 points -
6 points
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Xmas Tree complete ?
smitty0312 and 4 others reacted to John B for a topic
G'day all, The kids stuck their "baubles" on the tree today. I cut the circles and painted them white and the kids decorated them. They used hot melt glue, so I will have to place a screw in each one to stop them falling of. Would of used super glue but I reckon we would of ended up with a few nippers stuck to tree amongst the decos The local Men's shed made 14 trees from ply and gave one to each school to decorate and paint. May add a little tinsel, we'll see what the boss thinks.5 points -
Gift shop
namunolie and 3 others reacted to Nickel Falls for a topic
4 points -
Yesterday marked a year since I joined SSV. The year went by quickly and I learned A LOT here in The Village. Many thanks to Travis for maintaining it and all of you out there for sharing your knowledge and experiences. Without a doubt, it helped flatten my learning curve and continues to do so (Inkscape, finishes, etc.) Joe in Delaware3 points
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Made from scraps lying around the shop. Designs by T & E and also primary design by Mother Nature too! Lightly torched on the leaves and then hand burned for the veining. Light coat of gesso over them to keep charring from following people around. Sized from about 4 inches for the small leaves to about 8 for the largest one. Fun to do. I did put felt feet under them so they can be used as small trivets to.3 points
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You can do this with a word processor program like MS Word, Apache Open Office, etc., or a photo editing program like Photoshop, Paint, etc. If a word processing program, you can change the Font (style of letters) and size. Then just type the words and spacings as you want. If there is a way to select paper size, you may want to set a custom size of 10" X 8 1/2" so the sign is wider than tall. For a Photo Processor, you also set the image size and font, then select the lettering tool. Then just type your message. Using a photo program you then get to position your typed line where you want by selecting the Move Tool. The letters are on a kind-of invisible layer above the background, something like clear plastic in function, so the Move Tool will let you move your typed line of letters around the background to place it wherever you want. If you add another line of text, it too will be added as an invisible layer and can be moved to position in the same way. If you need to again move the first line of text, you will need to select the first layer again (layers menu) so you can again move it. Each can be selected via the layer that it is on. When you have selected the desired layer you can edit or do anything without affecting the other layers. Each layer is saved separately when you save the file, unless you choose "Flatten Layers". When you select this, all of the created layers get combined with the first Background Layer and you can't separately edit them any more, but it does reduce the file size. Whenever I want to place many small patterns on a sheet of paper, I use this Layers Feature to copy and drag duplicates of the first image, each on a new layer, and placing as many as possible on the page. This creates a whole stack of layers with one duplicate pattern on each layer. Each can then be moved or modified by selecting the layer that the image is on that I want to modify or edit. I always save the file with all of the layers, so that I can go back and edit anything on any layer. The file will print out showing what you see, with all of the images and edits as you see them on the computer screen since the many layers themselves are invisible. Only the image on each layer will show in the printing, so the end result is one page with many images on it. This is a bit tough to comprehend for someone new to this, so picture in your mind a sheet of paper lying on your work surface. Now print or draw many duplicate images, each on a clear sheet of plastic (layer). Place one of these sheets of plastic on top of your sheet of paper and move it around to put the image where you want it on your sheet of paper. Now repeat the process using another sheet of plastic with the same image on it, placing it on top of your previous plastic and background paper. Again, move it around until it is adjacent to the image on the plastic below it. Continue adding sheets of plastic, moving the image on it adjacent to the images on the plastic sheets below. You can continue this until you have as many above the sheet of paper as you would like. Then imagine being able to glue all of these layers of plastic in these positions so you can run the whole stack through a copier. The copier won't see the plastic sheets, but will see all of the images and their positions, so the printed sheet will have all of the images laid out on it in the positions that you placed them. In the photo processing program you are doing exactly this, but the sheets of plastic are electronic and completely invisible, except for the image that you place on it. Each can be positioned or edited separately with no affect at all on the rest. When printed, they all show up on the paper as you placed them. Charley2 points
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1 point
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Bottoms up
Jronn65 reacted to heppnerguy for a topic
I cut two of these for son in laws. they both enjoy their beer and it is difficult to not see an open one in their hand at any time. Luckily they don't ever get obnoxious or irritating in any way when they are drinking but when I saw this Steve Good pattern, I just knew I had to cut one for each of them. The other one I cut with an orange background, just so they would not be exactly the same. I cut both of them from BB Ply was surprised that they did not take more time to cut as the font of the letters is fairly delicate but I was happy with the way they turned out, and I hope they like them as much as I enjoyed making them. Dick heppnerguy1 point -
I am running out of shelf space to display my scrolled portraits in the living room, so I figure the walls in the living room are my next best bet. However, I can't mar the walls in any way or I'm gonna get a whoopin. What do y'all suggest. I'm thinking a good brand of double sided tape. Some may be in lightweight frames and some may be just 1/8 or 1/4 in. BB ply with a 1/8 BB backer or poster board backer. Any suggestions? Thanx in advance....Forrest1 point
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20 mule team wagon
Norm Fengstad reacted to preprius for a topic
Hi all, Just sharing my first attempt at lettering fret work. I wanted a 20 mule team concept for my outdoor garden train. I wanted to generally keep the old wagon concept. I made a wood shell that slips over a flat car. So that made it wider than track, but still kinda resembles the old wagon. The wood is 6 inches front to back. This is a proof of concept. That is working out errors of the design and is it worth doing the 2nd one. wagon shell wood: red oak 1/4" wheels: dark walnut printed logo from borax laundry soap was used as cutting pattern. Black paper as backing for lettering. Those donkey no mule ears and legs were a bit trickey. The logo showed tails for each mule. I left those off. 2/0 spiral blade for both lettering and 20 mules with wagons. pegas #3 blade for wheels. stacked cut 1/2" walnut. Total stack is 1inch.1 point -
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No it supposed to have a nylon washer between the rear tension knob and the wedge.. Supposed to help keep the knob from turning on it's own while sawing. IF it gets oil on it then it needs cleaned or replaced as it looses it's friction properties. https://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/nylon-tension-washer/ I think it's probably a $.50 part at a hardware store but this link shows you what it is..1 point
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Gift shop
Nickel Falls reacted to Roberta Moreton for a topic
You have a lot of stuff! That looks great!1 point -
Mine Hawk does not have a washer. Is this a modification?1 point
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1 point
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Last night I upgraded ( I think ) to the Gold membership.. It was a little confusing to me as I was the bronze and it had a upgrade button for silver but the one for gold said downgrade instead of upgrade, LOL .. I clicked it anyway and it popped up and asked if I was sure I wanted to subscribe clicked yes or okay whatever it said and then it went through.. I was expecting to have to pay something right then and there because when I did so for the Silver it said you'll have to pay $10 more for the upgrade. Anyway I wanted the gold.. but it confused me by saying downgrade instead of upgrade.. that's why I went to silver to see what that one said. I went ahead and clicked the downgrade and everything seems to have went through. I'm not sure how it's going to work for billing because I never paid anything yet.. I thought maybe it had a automatic paypal payment thing on X date it just automatically takes it out.. Maybe it will? Anyway, the buttons was there for me and I was able to do what I needed.. I think LOL1 point
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I upgraded the software last week. I don't' remember it being a problem before, or at least nobody flagged it. I have a ticket open to the software developers. It's unlikely they'll get back to me before Monday at the earliest, though.1 point
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Hmmmm.....yah, I've been messing with it too. Seems like if you're a bronze member, upgrade/downgrading options aren't available. I might have to put a ticket in for the software developers on this one. I'll keep poking around to see what I can come up with.1 point
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If you go to the subscriptions page, you should be able to upgrade your membership. At the bottom of the tier, it should say something like "Upgrade" or similar. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/subscriptions/ Let me know if you still have troubles.1 point
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3M Command strips are good. However, I have found that when left on the wall for an extended period of time (as little as a month), the removable function seems to go away. Trying to remove the strip can actually cause extensive damage to the wall surface...this happended to me when hanging Xmas decorations for just the month of December a few years ago. For most of our Scroll Saw Portraits, even when in a frame, they are very light. I use the very small sawtooth hangers on the back of my work and use very tiny small headed brass nails to hang my work. The hole that remains when removed is very tiny, almost invisible and easily filled with the smallest dab of spackle if and when necessary. If you are displaying your work in your living room, they will probably be there a long time...not sure, IMHO, I would use any kind of adheisive hanger.1 point
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I'm going to give the 3M Command Strips a shot. Thanks for the replies. I hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving......forrest1 point
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1 point
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Thanks, Yes would like to make the sigh 8by10 inch ,with two rows, eight letters on each row. Print on paper, and cut the letters on probably birch plywood1 point
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I have had a Hegner since 2008 Run it 4-5 hours a day since then and have had zero problems with it. I found a used Hegner a 1986 model and it still runs well. I did have to replace the bellows on it though. I had a chance to buy a used hawk, about a 2010 model I think. The hawk runs smoother than my Hegners but I have had to replace a number of parts on it, Was not easy to get the parts. I find the hawk convenient to use when it is working well but adjustments are necessary, very often. I gave it away. I also have a 1988 Jet 15" scroll saw that I like.1 point
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I'm not sure I'm understanding the question, Are you trying to print just the letters so you can glue the letters to a sign?1 point
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What a fabulous tree. Everyone did a marvelous job. Marg1 point
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Here are some photos of what I've been working on this past week. First photo has two paw print ornaments for the grandson and his friend along, a Home plaque and a Jeep wall hanging for my other grandson Second photo is a whale puzzle. Third is my most ambitious so far - a Harley-type Skull with pistons for the son-in-law's workshop.1 point
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I stacked cut two of these over a year ago. Gave one to a co-worker for his son, just got around to finishing up the second one. I'm not real happy with how the easel turned out on this one. After looking at the pictures I think that I need to cut the top of the middle piece a bit shorter. I used scrap Pine for the stand and BBP for the plaque and backer. I know that Pine doesn't stain very nice so I use a pre-conditioner on the stand but it still didn't take a stain very good. Oh well, the wife is happy that I finished another project that I started last year,, well almost finished,, still needs a finish sprayed on the stand.1 point
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Woo Hoo! We got one more. So 55 patterns this year! @Travis - received @Oges - received @don in brooklin on - received @Dan- received @Jim Blume - received @RabidAlien - received @Fab4 - received @grampa - received @meflick- received @jr42- received @glucas4 - received1 point
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how to secure scrolled portraits on wall
Fab4 reacted to don in brooklin on for a topic
1 point -
one from Tombstone
Jim Blume reacted to heppnerguy for a topic
A couple of weeks ago I took one of my grandsons to Tombstone, Arizona. He was very excited about the trip and had a real love for the movie "Tombstone" and very familiar with what we were about to see. He told me on the way home that he really wanted me to make him something as a reminder of our trip there, for Christmas. This is what I came up with for him and I am pretty sure he will love it when he opens it. Dick heppnerguy1 point -
All of my pictures are done in a light box that I have set up in the loft of my shop. I originally bought a medium sized fold up deal with tripod lights.. was made of cloth material and had a spring wire frame. The kit came with several colored backdrops that Velcro in place. Was an "okay" set up.. I didn't like the cloth because it'd get wrinkles in it and make shadows etc. Fast forward a few years. I got real high end set up and would never go back to a high price purchased item again.. So what I have now is simply a cardboard box that was free at the local Michaels store. I cut out windows in the sides of the box and taped in white tissue paper ( stuff people use to cover / wrap a gift in a gift bag ).. For the backdrop I bought a poster board and taped it to the back top side of the box and let it drape down naturally. I then used the lights from the purchased kit I had.. Not all poster board is created equal but all of them will work. I found I like the little more pricey one that is made more of plastic or? because you can wipe it down if it gets a dirt smudges on it.. Any spec of dust / dirt on a white and taking high resolution photos shows up bad so being in my loft sometimes gets some dust etc. Wiping it on a white paper can smear mark it.. The cheaper poster board is harder to clean than the better one is my point.. I made this as a temporary photo box about 8 years ago.. my intention was to build a wood framed one that's larger and more durable.. But as you can see I never did that.. maybe never will because a free box is way cheaper than even scrap wood to build one, LOL.. I do want a larger one for the larger items ( signs ) that I'll be doing on my CNC.. But this smaller one works perfect for most my scrolled stuff.1 point
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There has been a lot of confusion around the very popular Excalibur scroll saw. They disappeared for awhile without any word. Then several saws started showing up that looked like the Excalibur, but all under different names. It turns out there was a bunch of movement between brand rights, design rights, and distribution rights that gets a little sticky. Peter Kennedy from King Canada helped shed a little light on how all of this shakes out. Hopefully you'll find it interesting and understand this confusing topic a little bit better. - - - - - - - - - - Hi Travis, thanks for getting back to me. I will try to make this as simple and painless as possible. It is very convoluted so I think point form time lines will tell the story best. My biggest concern is scroll saw enthusiasts, knowing the reputation of the original Excalibur scroll saw, will be unaware it is still available as well as parts and help if required. Please note, my dates may be off by a bit but you will get the idea as to how things have evolved. FYI, King Canada is the largest supplier of wood and metal working machinery in Canada. We are almost 40 years old and are just now entering the US market. 1982 - Somerville Design introduces the Excalibur scroll saws manufactured in Toronto Ontario 2003 – General International acquires the assets of Summerville Design including the Excalibur brand. G.I. sends the 21” scroll saw to Taiwan to be manufactured and adds the 30” version. 2008 + or – G.I. adds the 16” version. 2010 – EX-21 awarded “Editor’s Choice” by Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts magazine. 2012 - the EX-21AE 30th anniversary edition is introduced. 1000 units available. Color changed from green to black and dust collection added to the table, stand and foot switch are included. 2012-13 – G.I. goes back to the models EX-16, EX-21 and Ex-30 retaining the black color and other Anniversary options on all saws. No more General green.. 2014 + or – G.I. is sold to DMT holdings of Seattle WA. Including the Excalibur brand but not the manufacturing rights for the scroll saw. They are held by the manufacturer in Taiwan. 2015-16 - JPW (Jet)designs their 22” saw and has it manufactured by the same Taiwan maker as the original Excalibur saws. 2016 + or – The original Taiwanese manufacturer seeks new North American distribution for the original design scroll saws. 2016 – King Canada is granted distribution rights to the original 16”, 21” and 30” saws for the Canadian market. They are branded Excelsior in Canada and King Industrial in the U.S. 2016 - Due to design similarities of the Jet 22”, the manufacturer restricts King’s U.S. distribution to the 16” and the 30” versions. 2016 – Woodcraft commits to national U.S. distribution of the King Industrial 16” and 30” scroll saws. 2017 – Seyco introduces their version of the saw manufactured by the same maker as the Excalibur, Excelsior, King Industrial and the JPW saws. 2017 - The European saws Azxminster, Pegas Etc., are all made by the same Taiwanese maker. These saws were previously supplied to them by G.I. 2018 + or - General International (DMT Holdings) begins to market a Chinese made version of the 21” saw under the Excalibur name and model number. Summary, The only original Excalibur saws are now branded either King Industrial (U.S.) or Excelsior (Canada). At this time, there is no original design 21” available in the U.S. The Seyco and the JPW (Jet)saws are designed after the Excalibur saws with proprietary differences. So, the King Industrial/Excelsior saws are the original design with a different name and the saw branded Excalibur is a different saw with the original name. The many manufacturing nuances and extreme tolerances make these saws virtually impossible to copy and have them function as they were originally designed. Note, when I use the term “original”, I refer to original manufacturer, original design, original components, parts, motors, and specifications. North American Model #’s Original EX-16 is now Excelsior XL-16 in Canada Original EX-16 is now King Industrial KXL-16 in the U.S. Original EX-21 is now Excelsior XL-21 in Canada (not available in the U.S.) Original EX-30 is now Excelsior XL-30 in Canada Original EX-30 is now King Industrial KXL-30 in the U.S. General still uses model #EX-21, “made in China” on the box and 16” or 30’ no longer available. Seyco Model ST-21, 21” no other sizes available to my knowledge Jet Model #727299K, 22” no other sizes available to my knowledge I hope this gives some clarity to the situation.1 point