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Saw this quote pop up in my FB feed, thought it was a solid line of reasoning. Threw together a quick pattern. 1" whiteboard, Pegas #3 MG blades. Pattern is stained Minwax "Natural Oak" and the backer is "Early American". ...don't quote me on either of those stain names. I'm still working on first cup of coffee, and its been a VERY trying, emotional couple of days for the family. No losses, but prayers/vibes/thoughts would be appreciated. Frame is built, just need some light sanding on the upper left corner to get a better fit.

Geometric shapes - endless source of ornament patterns, this time for Christmas. For this project I used birch plywood 1/6 inch, finishing - glossy varnish and stain. Video of making project Christmas Ornament patterns

Thanks Brenda for your help but Paul had what I was looking for, I just maker the pattern bigger for my needs. Marg

Thank you Paul @Fab4 that is exactly what I'm looking for. I have information over load and some times bits leak out. Marg

Maybe use a heat gun to loosen up the shelf liner glue, and oh yes, sand the BB before putting on the shelf liner. That one made a difference for me.

This is what Marg is after, if you look at my previous message, it will explain how

This is joint project with my granddaughter. I was her idea so I came up with a pattern and cut out for each of her friends. The inspiration for this was, at Halloween this year the 7 friends all dressed as a different colour M&M. Had sweatshirts with a big M and a matching Tootoo. Some had coloured streaks in their hair too. She wanted to come up with something to give each this Christmas and this is what she came up with. I cut - she painted the same as her friends costume.

My RBI are not like this, but one of them was at one time, brought it up to the fine folks at Bushton and the rear uprights are out of alignment when this happens. You loosen all the bolts that hold the uprights from underneath the stand and turn the saw on the lowest setting.. run it for a few seconds and it should alien itself. Can't help with the Hegners because I've never owned / used one.. But I can say it's not supposed to be that way ( at least on the RBI's ) It's amazing how nice and smooth a saw actually does work when one takes time to learn and tune them..

This is something that I inquired about a while back. I don't have the problem that you have as mine is fairly well centered in the table slot. I was just wondering about centering the blade in the clamps so they are planar if that is the correct word. Regular scroll saws have set screws that can be moved right or left on both clamps in order to get the blade so that it is running straight up and down, top to bottom but on the Hegners you have to rely on the clamps finding a "happy" place on both ends and hope they more or less center up. I've got the Quick clamp on both of my saws and they both seem to cut ok. Jim, is there any way to loosen your table and maybe adjust it so that the blade is centered? I've never checked mine to see if there is any "slop" in the mounting holes. That may solve your problem.

When you are using tht quick clamp the top clamp needs tog to jeld tight in the clip

I feel your pain - I own 3 Hegners , Before i put on the tension i physically move them to the aproximate center by manually moving them to center. All parallel arm saw of this type have a bit of this, even RBI. if your worried about getting this annally close get your hands on a small engineering square ( very tiny ) lay it on the table and against the blade -after a few times youll get it very close . Its also a good idea to get this square anyways -to check your blade and table squareness . P.S when ever i change a blade i put a couple of drops on oil on the upper and lower arm pivot -will extend the life of the saw . Tony Burns

Others have said it but, IMHO, it is the quality of the ply you are using, no mater how you attach your pattern or the condition of the drill bit. The finish side vaneer on good quality BB ply will not fall apart, assuming you are using the proper size sharp blade. I most often use spiral blades that produce a generaly rougher cut and still get very good small details in the BB Ply I use. Any loss of detail I may get is due to my poor cutting technique and not the wood. However, I do go one step further and purchase 5/32"x12"x19" solid core progect panels from HD. Slightly more expensive but they are intended for cricut/laser cutting and the quality of the vaneer is even better than the good quality BB ply that is available.

That's why we are here Marg - For all you leakers - Glad you got what you were looking for

From what I understand box store "Birch" isn't actually Baltic Birch. I've used box store Birch but usually I lose pieces on the bottom and not the top. I use Duck shelf liner and haven't had any problems with it pulling chips of the top. I have also used spray adhesive on the pattern and applied it directly to the wood. A little heat from a heat gun or hair dryer will loosen the adhesive and it will almost peel itself off. You may need to use a little mineral spirits to remove any residual adhesive from the project. I haven't tried but I also understand you can apply mineral spirits directly to the pattern when you're ready to remove it and it will soak through and loosen the adhesive where the pattern can easily be removed. Good luck.

My latest project - a helicopter made out of basswood. Used a mahogany stain on the propellors and Watson's Golden Oak on the body. Applied a satin gloss finish on it when done. Who knew I had all these toys justing waiting in my basement woodpile!

Back when I used to saw, I sandwiched anything delicate between 2 layers of luan. Luan is cheap insurance and it will blow your mind the tiny things you can make. When assembling "the sandwich", always have the face of the luan grain run opposite the part of your "good" piece. jerry

Could be a couple things going on.. Since you're using shelf liner most times that stuff comes off pretty good so I doubt its because that it sticking too good. I have had cases where I had a dull drill bit and I was drilling too fast for the drill bit to keep up with removing the chips.. this punctures the back side of the ornament and while it may not look punctured after drilling.. but it loosens it up in the last layer of the ply.. then when you cut it loosens and chips fall out creating somewhat what you are talking about but on the back side usually.. but can also happen on the front too if you're really pushing the drill through to hard. Also pre-sanding the blanks helps a lot.. especially if the plywood is older and has been in some higher humidity at some point.. the high humidity sort of loosens the fibers of the wood.. I find sanding first helps a lot with this..

Glad you got things sorted out without having to spend money.. Is this on the little 8" Delta drill press? My bearings in mine have been noisy for a couple years.. it's probably worn enough that it may not be repairable... I've wanted to take it apart and repair / rebuild it but it lacks a few things I'd like to have on a drill press so I think I'm going to buy a new one at some point. What one I have no idea.. I've posted about them a couple times in the past and never have pulled the trigger.. Gotta say though.. I only paid $2 for this thing 13 years ago at a tractor swap meet, so I think I probably drilled enough holes to get my moneys worth from it.. I assume I could sell it as it is still working decent.. just a bit noisy bearing.. Might even be able to get my $2 back out of it if I list it on FB Marketplace, LOL Anyway, I'm glad you posted this as I learned a few things from this topic.. Oh, was also going to say.. This is weird but.. I have one of those little chuck inserts for the smaller bits.. and it also wobbles quite a lot, but I learned something about it maybe 10 years ago.. Why this happens I have no idea.. but it could be worth trying on your drill press.. Anyway, I learned that if I mount the small adapter in a certain way it smooths out the wobble big time.. so when I figured this out I took a marker and marked a line on the drill chuck and on the adapter.. If I line those to lines up I get hardly any wobble.. When I first discovered this I had it running very smooth and then went to drill a clock hole and then reinserted the adapter with the small drill still in it and it wobbled crazy.. Nothing changed in that 2 minutes other than the position that it was mounted in... so I took the adapter out turned it ( my adapter has a hex shank and probably where the issue lies ) so it clamped onto another portion of the shank.. still wobbled so did it once again and it worked great.. so that is when I made those marks.. now I look for the marks to line it up.. never had much trouble from it since then.. You might try this..

Do you mean just a pattern or is it a keychain you're trying to make ?

Hi Marge: I copied part of @don in brooklin onpost, April 29, 2019 from Steve Good's blog With Steve Good's Keychain Maker you can do it Thanks Don for the post back then and for all future ones You have the Heart, Star and Bone Hope this help you Fab4 The special characters are - ;-semi colon- heart ,-comma-colon - star -[-sq parenthesis dog bone start -]-sq parenthesis dog bone close

Transformers Robots in disguise. Oh I remember that song, My girls used to love that toon. So while looking around I came across these familiar faces. I just had to give em a try. The Mystery Machine with on the right I like that on better. And the General Lee Transformers Flag is on his back I guess.

Hello everyone, on my Hegner Scroll Saw is there a way to adjust the upper and lower blade clamp? On the upper blade clamp the blade it all the way to the left of the clamp and on the lower blade clamp the blade is riding up against the table insert on the right side. So I'm thinking (hoping) there is a way that I can adjust those two arms so the blade is in the middle of the blade clamps. Here is a picture and hopefully that shows what I'm talking about. Thanks Jim

Have you contacted Hegner about this? I think if nobody here can give you suggestions on saw alignment and fixing the problem I'd contact Hegner to see what they say..

If you can live with just HS bits, I just found that OttoFrei.com has them in 10 packs for $5.50 plus tax and mailing. I'm ordering 4 packs of 56, 57, 59, 60 and it's going to run me $30. Qtena.com has cobalt for $12.95 per 10 pack.

I'll bet your table is just a tad off center. Either by the wrong mounting or a factory defect. Either way, it should be somewhat adjustable.

Hmm, I've never looked at the Ray. When I get home I'll see if I can move the table to the right just a smidge and see what I find out. I was thinking it could be something with the upper and lower arms. Thanks Jim

Just got back from a trip to my favorite supplier. We are fortunate that they are only 109 miles away, so when we buy a big amount, it's worth 10 gals of fuel to save any shipping costs. They are awesome folks, a family owned and operated business, always eager to please, and provide excellent materials. Check them out if you haven't already. https://ocoochhardwoods.com/

Looks like we got your account squared away. I guess there was some conflicting invoices that was messing up the logic. At any rate, you should be set. I'm still getting help from tech support. I did notice a couple of times where those buttons arent' showing up when they should be. So for other accounts, I'm trying to find out what the deal is. That is a strange quirk. I think it's basically because it's looking at what you spent. So it knows you have a a $10 package and sees the gold as a $5 package. The difference being the Bronze and Silver packages are yearly packages, and the Gold package is monthly. So it calls it a downgrade becaise $5<$10.

Thank you Tony, yes I have a small engineering square that I use. I am normally putting drops of oil on the upper and lower arm pivot about once a week. I only scroll for a couple of hours a night after work during the week. I'll see if I can push those clamps around a little to see if I can get that blade a little farther away from that side piece it has been chewing through. I also wonder if I can adjust the set screw on the lower blade clamp that would take the blade away from the side piece a little bit. I haven't looked that close to the blade clamp to see if that is possible. Thanks Jim

great job

Great saying, beautiful work. Sending you my very best wishes for better days ahead.

Thanks everyone for the ideas. Will see what happens with the next ones I cut.

I don't normally have problems with the top veneer layer. I use blue painters tape . You can also apply the pattern directly to the wood. When your done cutting just wipe it down with mineral spirits and the pattern will lift off cleanly. You do have to make sure you clean the surface good doing it this way but honestly it is that much work to do.

Beautiful work Frank especially the leopard Marg

In case you haven't figured out why Linda looks so perfect, she's a mannequin. I posted the photo of her to see if anyone realized what she was. Barbie? Well, sort of. Ken? Not likely. I only need one human figure to adjust my lights and camera settings. I could have bought either, but like the look of a female better, even if she's plastic. I bought Linda from Amazon after I had talked my wife into posing for me while I adjusted the lights and that led to failure. It lasted about 10 minutes and she asked how long it would take? I said, "about an hour", and she got up an left and wouldn't come back. Most other portrait photographers have a mannequin head, or whole body to practice and adjust their lights with, so when my wife wouldn't come back to help, I bought the cheapest full body mannequin that Amazon offered. Her clothes came from the local thrift stores and her hair from the Halloween Section of Walmart. All for less than $100. At first my wife wasn't happy with me buying Linda, but that changed quickly when she realized that I didn't need and wouldn't be asking her to pose for me any more because Linda, the mannequin, would do it for me. My wife seems to have fully accepted Linda now, because every once in a while, she comes home with another article of clothing "for Linda". She even had one of our neighbors helping her find things for "Linda". But this has caused problems, because Linda's wardrobe is beginning to fill my photo equipment storage closet. I only needed one outfit so she would look decent, but Linda is building a wardrobe of clothing and accessories without even going shopping. Do all women do this? So Linda has become a piece of my photography hardware, just like my lights and cameras, and you wanted to see my studio and equipment, so I started by posting Linda for you all to see. I mostly wanted to see how many of you thought she was real. Now, come on guys. Do you really think a woman this young and pretty is going to want anything to do with this 79 year old relic? Charley

Thanks Kevin. That's great advice and I will try it tomorrow. The little 8" press went a while back. I bought a 10" one for $125 with a stand. Then I put my little 8" one on C/L for $125 and sold it right away. I only had $45 in the 8" one. So, once again, I'm ahead. This d/p is in very good shape and I'm happy with it now that I know everything is good on it.

This is one of those little tidbits of information you just can't find anywhere else. Thanks for sharing!

UPDATE!! I decided to call the Little Machine Shop and did get some info. But before pulling the trigger on a new chuck, I wanted to make sure that my problem was actually the chuck. Anyway, long story short, I took the chuck off the d/p and cleaned it up and oiled it so that it operated like it should. Then I mounted a dial indicator to the d/p table and did a runout check on the quill. About .003-.005. Not bad. So, I cleaned up the quill and the inside of the chuck and re-mounted it. I did another check and it is still in about that same range. The quill bearings are a little noisy. Or maybe it's the belt/pulleys that are making a bit of noise. I found that my factory chuck will tighten down on a number 58 bit and that seems to be what I use the most. So that problem is solved. Then I decided to take a good look at the keyless adapter that mounts in the chuck to accept all the number bits down to an 80. That's where my problem is. It has a lot of runout. I took it all apart and cleaned it and removed a few burrs that were on the inside of it where the 3 jaws slide. It's better but by no means close enough that I will use it for any fine work. I guess you get what you pay for in that category. If I recall it was under $10. I think my problem is solved. I will stick with what I have and see how it goes. I'm not sure I could make it better enough to warrant the $40 plus dollars it was going to cost for a new keyless chuck. Thanks to everybody once again for beint the fount of information that you all are. My family!

Looks very nice.

Excellent work, Kirk. Thoughts and prayers for you. Hope tomorrow brings a better day.

My tree was designed by Sue Mey this year. The blue ornament is from our first Christmas together. 49 years ago.

Nice lettering! Sending good vibes your way to help with whatever is troubling you.

very nice job

I made the very same one a few years ago for a set wooden toys for my grandson. Very nice

I have made a few of these. Never thought to dual stain them. It looks Fantastic.

There are some days I curse Harvey Byler under my breath while I'm cutting... Those days happen to be when I have to cut Shih-Tzu's... LOL His attention to detail is amazing... and infuriating at times. I just cut this one, still need to spray coat it and add hooks. This one will absolutely test your skills.

Just finished this and I am thankful for the love of a lab. I am blessed to have a sweetheart. Have had a couple in the past and their love is unconditional.

Looks great! You could make an outlined backer because it will be hanging! I think the name means "Mop without a handle"!

Joe, it's been 7 years for me. Not a day goes by that I'm not thankful I found scrolling and Scrollsaw Village. All of the great folks here are like family for me.

Mikes Workshop - Flying Dutchman drill bits Free Shipping https://mikesworkshop.com/collections/accessories/products/1-16 I use the largest bit that will work.