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Here's two photos of my latest cutting, '' Here Comes Santa Clause '' from a pattern by Jeff Zaffino, one with a frame I made (with wood) and the other one a digital one done up on computer with Google Sketch-up.

Geometric shapes - endless source of ornament patterns, this time for Christmas. For this project I used birch plywood 1/6 inch, finishing - glossy varnish and stain. Video of making project Christmas Ornament patterns

Saw this quote pop up in my FB feed, thought it was a solid line of reasoning. Threw together a quick pattern. 1" whiteboard, Pegas #3 MG blades. Pattern is stained Minwax "Natural Oak" and the backer is "Early American". ...don't quote me on either of those stain names. I'm still working on first cup of coffee, and its been a VERY trying, emotional couple of days for the family. No losses, but prayers/vibes/thoughts would be appreciated. Frame is built, just need some light sanding on the upper left corner to get a better fit.

Transformers Robots in disguise. Oh I remember that song, My girls used to love that toon. So while looking around I came across these familiar faces. I just had to give em a try. The Mystery Machine with on the right I like that on better. And the General Lee Transformers Flag is on his back I guess.

This is joint project with my granddaughter. I was her idea so I came up with a pattern and cut out for each of her friends. The inspiration for this was, at Halloween this year the 7 friends all dressed as a different colour M&M. Had sweatshirts with a big M and a matching Tootoo. Some had coloured streaks in their hair too. She wanted to come up with something to give each this Christmas and this is what she came up with. I cut - she painted the same as her friends costume.

Yes, Denny sells the Pegas brand blades. If you used the blade I had installed and liked it it was a Pegas Modified Geometry blade.. I think that one was a #5 but may have been a #3.. That said small samples of a lot of styles and sizes is the best method to find what you like for your style cutting and your comfort level. Here is a link to his site https://www.artcraftersonline.com/

I submitted a photo of my finished model like they requested and was really surprised after a few weeks when I received a copy of their catalogue and noticed my model on the back cover. I added a few details to the model like doors that open and a different hub center on the wheels. beaver

A pair of snowmen from Sheila Landry patterns, cut from 5/8" sassafras and finished with a couple coats of Waterlox. And a praying angel from an older issue of Scrollsaw Woodworking. Cut from 1/4" cherry and 2 coats of Waterlox. Love making Christmas ornaments!

I am looking to order blades, I think someone in the village sells them,correct?

Sounds basically like the same issue I had with the Hawk and basic idea of what they told me to do with the uprights.. Good info incase I ever buy a Hegner.. MY OCD kicks in on having the saw tuned properly.. I think most just pull it out of the box and expect it to work great.. might happen on luck but I've never bought a saw yet that was straight out the box tuned and ready to go.. Yeah they work that way but not as efficiently and or smooth.

Here is the response I received from Hegner just now. Doesn't sound too complicated. Even I should be able to do this. Hello James, Thank you for contacting us. Correcting alignment is not terribly complicated: here's the procedure. 1) Remove the saw from the stand so that you can get to the Allen-head bolts under the base which anchor the mainframe (the orange casting that hold the blue arms) at the rear of the saw. Leave a blade installed and tensioned in the saw. 2) SLIGHTLY loosen both of these bolts (#28 - see parts diagram). It will likely require serious effort to loosen these, as they are VERY firmly tightened and also secured with a split lockwasher. The necessary wrench was originally in the toolkit packed with your saw, but I believe it is a 5 or 6 mm Allen screw so any suitable wrench will do.. Note: be sure to firmly seat the head of the wrench in the screw so that it does not cantilever out and cause injury under pressure! 3) Once the bolts are loosened (do NOT remove them), the frame may immediately spring back closer to its ideal position. You can loosen the bolts as much as needed to allow this to happen. 4) If needed, you can also gently rotate the frame into position by hand. However, if you do this, you may also need to realign the motor: in addition to aligning the blade roughly to the centerline of the long blade slot from the front of the worktable, the goal is for the connector #21 to hang perfectly vertical and allow free and easy rotation of the drive mechanism. For this the motor needs to be in proper left/right position (viewed from the front of the saw) relative to the sawing frame, and also be perfectly perpendicular to the center line of the arms. If motor alignment is required, it involves loosening of the four hold-down bolts which secure it to the base. 5) Once you have aligned all the components, secure the C-Frame bolts. If you have also loosened the motor bolts, finger-tighten these and turn the saw on and off quickly two or three times: this should allow the motor to "self-align." Then tighten the motor bolts. 6) Now briefly run the saw and observe the blade from the front to ensure that it is running true, and that the blade runs clear of the table cutout. Note however that it does not need to be perfectly centered: it is far more critical that the blade run true than that it be perfectly centered. If after these steps have been taken, there is still an issue of any kind, please contact us to discuss further. We have other options but they are rarely necessary. I hope this information is clear and helpful. If you do have further questions please do not hesitate to contact us at any time. Our phone lines are open weekdays from 10-3 (Eastern), and I personally am usually available between noon and 3, at 1-800-727-6553. You can also leave a message 24/7 and we will call you back no later than the following business day. Kind Regards & Happy Holidays, Patti Martin, Customer Support & Sales Advanced Machinery Inc 2 McCullough Dr., Suite #1 , New Castle, DE 19720 800-727-6553 M-F 10am-3pm EST

these blades are awesome and very reasonably priced: https://mikesworkshop.com/

Hi Dave, yes my saw has always been like this. I bought it used back in 2017 or 2018. It hasn't bothered me other than being an eye sore. But I'm wondering with the side of the saw blade coming into contact with that piece, if that would reduce the life of the saw blade? Hi Kevin, yes I emailed Wolfgang yesterday to see what he suggests that I do. Thank you Jim

My table will not move at all. Has you saw always been like that?

Just got back from a trip to my favorite supplier. We are fortunate that they are only 109 miles away, so when we buy a big amount, it's worth 10 gals of fuel to save any shipping costs. They are awesome folks, a family owned and operated business, always eager to please, and provide excellent materials. Check them out if you haven't already. https://ocoochhardwoods.com/

Not sure what the shipping would have cost, but with my order being 10 sheets of 1/8", 2 sheets of 1/4", and 60 2' x 8" pieces of various hardwood seconds, I believe I saved a bunch. Besides that, fuel is $3.00 a gallon, it's all rural, a nice drive with little traffic, and we do enjoy a little trip now and then.

G'Day, Just finished two knife boxes - "The Angry Stockfish" and "The New Zealand Stockfish". Why Stockfish? In my country - Ukraine, dry salted fish traditionally eated with beer instead chips. This salted fish named "taranka". I didn't found the detail product in US shops, so Stockfish. Made from pine, 2 layers of black oil for wood. Walls - 10 mm, lid and bottom - 6 mm, the inner insert thickness - 4 mm. Made with hand tools only. The pattern was fretsawed with jewellery fretsaw, blades @Antilope, jewelry blades.

Hello everybody, My last job, I found this model from Steve Good and motorcycling is another of my hobbies so i tried to cut this model but i don't like plywood. Eric

Just finished this board for a very good friend as a Christmas gift. Wood used Cherry, Maple and Walnut also epoxy in the middle.

There are some days I curse Harvey Byler under my breath while I'm cutting... Those days happen to be when I have to cut Shih-Tzu's... LOL His attention to detail is amazing... and infuriating at times. I just cut this one, still need to spray coat it and add hooks. This one will absolutely test your skills.

Maybe one of the “Church Ladies” will help.

Thanks Jim. Good info. I don't have that problem on either of my saws but I am going to look at the motor alignment just to be sure they are both sitting correctly.

To order Pegas blades find the link to my website in my signature. Also when checking out enter CHRISTMAS in the coupon code box for an additional 15% discount.

Not all painters tape is blue. They make painters tape for delicate surfaces. It is typically a pinkish color.

This may make it easier for those who want to make keychains and other name plaques Turn the CAPS key off - by clicking on the keys mentioned you will get different results Hope this helps someone wanting to play with this free program Fab4

Hi Tim: If you scroll down the list on Steve's site you will download V1.0.1 It's a zip file so you will have to extract the files to use the program Fab4 https://www.stevedgood.com/setupKeychain.zip

I've added a new post for the Keychain Maker I respectfully called Marg and whoever fits the bill a "Leaker" Whether we want to accept it or not, WE ALL LEAK at one point or another other Some may even call it "Brain Fart"....it happens Fab4

Wow! That looks like some very delicate fretwork. Great job!

I tried every way I could to figure out what that meant. Typo? What?

Well, I’ve known Marg for a long time, and I’m pretty sure she doesn’t leak. And she definitely isn’t a Lurker, she has near 20000 posts!

Well I had no idea it could do that! Thanks for posting this!

thoughts from the brain, leaking away from memory. Memory leaks. You know computers have memory overloads and just shut down.

Nice work! I used a digital frame to display my work at craft shows. Mostly people ignored it but sometimes it help stir up conversation.

Have you contacted Hegner about this? I think if nobody here can give you suggestions on saw alignment and fixing the problem I'd contact Hegner to see what they say..

What size drill bits do you all use. The smallest I have been able to find is 3/64". I need some smaller.

If you can live with just HS bits, I just found that OttoFrei.com has them in 10 packs for $5.50 plus tax and mailing. I'm ordering 4 packs of 56, 57, 59, 60 and it's going to run me $30. Qtena.com has cobalt for $12.95 per 10 pack.

Thank you Travis, I was able to upgrade to Silver now. Jim

Yes, it's a much better situation for you. A worthwhile trip for sure. $5/gal here and never a pleasant journey anywhere until you get out of town and that takes at least a half day. Too crowded.

My latest project - a helicopter made out of basswood. Used a mahogany stain on the propellors and Watson's Golden Oak on the body. Applied a satin gloss finish on it when done. Who knew I had all these toys justing waiting in my basement woodpile!

I converted these Spotted Leopard and Cute Kitten patterns for the scroll saw from free images found on-line. The Spotted Leopard cut panel is a 5/32x11x17 Maple solid core ply attached to a painted black 1/4 BB backer. The cut panel was Hand Painted with Artist Acrylic Paints. Cutting was completed with Pegas #2/0 and #0 spiral blades. The finished panel was protected with many coats of Deft Spray Clear Gloss Lacquer. The assembled panel is set in a custom Poplar 1 3/4” wide Frame finished with multiple coats of Minwax Pecan Poly/Stain. The Cute Kitten is 5/32x11x14 Walnut solid core ply attached to a Hand painted 1/4 BB backer. The Walnut cut panel was darkened with Minwax Dark Walnut stain. This pattern was very challenging because of the many very pointy cuts. Cutting was completed with Pegas #1 and #2/0 MGT R blades. The Backer was Hand Painted with Artist Acrylic Paints. The assembled panel is set in a custom Poplar 1 3/4” wide Frame finished with multiple coats of MInwax Dark Walnut Poly/Stain. As always, critique and comments welcome. I'll post the PDF Patterns in "New Pattern Announcements"

Back when I used to saw, I sandwiched anything delicate between 2 layers of luan. Luan is cheap insurance and it will blow your mind the tiny things you can make. When assembling "the sandwich", always have the face of the luan grain run opposite the part of your "good" piece. jerry

This is what Marg is after, if you look at my previous message, it will explain how

I built a gift shop in my yard last summer to sell my work. Thought I would take a couple minutes and show it to ya'll Lemme know what you think. (Video would not upload. My apologies)

I've completed the finish on this project today. It is a Jim Blume pattern cut using Pegas 2/0 and #1 spiral blades, 1/4 maple ply stained natural with a 1/4 pine ply backer cut 2 inches larger than the front and painted black. The entire project was sprayed with 4 coats of gloss poly with a light sanding between each coat. The frame is actually framing material I had on hand which I think turned out pretty nice with this piece. Thank, Jim, for the pattern. I hope I did it justice.

Here's two of my latest pieces. Patterns by me. Cut with Pegas 2/0 spirals.

I made this pattern and cutting from a painting by Missouri artist, Gary Lucy.

Made from scraps lying around the shop. Designs by T & E and also primary design by Mother Nature too! Lightly torched on the leaves and then hand burned for the veining. Light coat of gesso over them to keep charring from following people around. Sized from about 4 inches for the small leaves to about 8 for the largest one. Fun to do. I did put felt feet under them so they can be used as small trivets to.

10"X8" 1/8" BBPLY cut with 02 spiral

I use #56 thru #69 for many projects.