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So I got an airbrush, so I can do the fades for this. Still learning a good mix for craft paint to not run.. but I think it came out pretty good. So it's about 10x12 from 3/16" maple. Cut with Olson #2/0R blades and a modified Shelia Landry Design. Her original design does not come with the paw prints.

Got this Botas pattern cut out, and decided to play with resin epoxy on it. I like the way it worked out. What's your thoughts?

Recently deceased Vicente “Chente” Fernandez. Also known as El Rey de Mariachi. Was a very famous Mexican Mariachi singer/song writer This portrait was made To Honor his life and legacy

I was commissioned to make this pair of Chinese Dragons panels. The client chose this Dragon from a group of different Dragons I provided. The patterns were found on-line and had to be only slightly modified to make it scrollable. The original had the “ribs” (for lack of a better word) bridging to the opposite side making a multitude of dropouts. The cut panels are 1/8” x 20” x 30” BB ply mounted on a painted black 1/4" x 20” x 30” BB Ply Backer. The cut panels were stack cut to make mirror images with good side up. Shelf liner was applied to both sides to minimize possible tear out. All cutting was completed with Pegas #1 spiral blades. A number of blades broke, mostly because it was difficult to thread the blade from below without kinking the blade. Keeping the panel flat while cutting was difficult, especially so after some of the larger areas were cut out. Used a lot of blue tape to hold cutouts in place to help keep the panel somewhat rigid while cutting. Yes, the little piece in the Dragon’s nose had to be glued back in after the panel was affixed to the backer. The 20” x 30” BB ply panels were special ordered from Ocooch Hardwoods. I did not find the prices to be too unreasonable for this special order. They responded to my request quickly and the order was received within just a few days. Great service. Now here is where I need some help and opinions. I need to make frames for these panels and cannot decide what width rail/stile I should use. I typically use 1 3/4" wide, but not sure if that will look the best for these panels. Often large frames are narrow (3/4”) or, like large paintings, use a much wider (2 1/2” +) that may be more appropriate. Please provide you opinion on what size I might use and tell me why. You might want to let me know what color the frame should be also. Thanks for you help. EDIT 12/22/21 I made the frames from 1"wide x 3/4" thick Poplar. I think the 1" frame width works well for these Chinese Dragon mirror image panels. I did a significant amoiunt of hand sanding to obtain a very smooth surface. I then applied two coats of a Rustolium Black Primer sanding between coats, again to a very smooth finish after which I applied multiple coats of Rustoleum Black Lacquer. Just as I was finishing the final coat, the nozzle on the spray can stuck in the open (spraying) position and made a mess, but fortunately not on the frames. After drying almost 24 hours, I found there was some areas of blush. Two light coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer did a nice job of getting a bright uniform finish. This commission project was difficult in many respects, but I feel it came out fairly well and am hoping the clients are happy. I'm not sure I would want to tackle a large panel project like this again. Thanks again to all that offered comments and advice. When appropriate and a black frame is needed, I think I will be using Black Lacquer again.

Well, I spent more time down in my "shop" playing with my scroll saw and here's what I came up with - still trying to get the hang of this "hobby"! Hats off to everyone here - I've gained a lot of respect for the time and effort you put into your work! The first image is a train puzzle made from spalted ash. The second image is a puzzle of a mother hippo and her baby (I'm sure you've all seen this one all over the internet); the third one is a "batmobile" made from spalted ash and purple heart.

Took 4 tries to get this one right so I made some nice mahogany kindling. video-1639605627.mp4

Might do a search on Asian picture frames... to get some ideas, I always struggle with the same question and usually my "cheapness" wins and I go with narrower, get more out of a piece of wood..

If I were making it I would be probably make a frame either 2" or 2 1/2" wide. I used black Minwax stain on the backer and frame.

The mat can also can be useful when routing smaller pieces.

Another Botas pattern. Give me your thoughts.

WE have this and it's great. https://www.harborfreight.com/fluorescent-magnifying-lamp-60643.html

Made from 3/16" thick Hard Maple. Measures 12x21 in total. Cut with Olson #2/0R blades. Sheila Landry Design.

You did Heldas proud with his pattern, a great job. I have often wondered about filling cut outs with coloured resin as I imagine items would look quite stunning hung in a window with the sun shining through. Love it.

I have to disagree Kevin. I lacquer my puzzles and fret work with multiple coats. I have seen so many good cuttings, and work ruined (Not looking it's best) because of the lack of finishing skills, from sanding to polishing. Personally, I would never use an oil, without a film coat over the top .

My thought exactly and already agreed to by the client. Thanks

They got it today. Her husband took it out of the box, went to a picture hanging on the wall, took the picture down, and hung it up. LOL.

It's a great method. I have used it for many years. I also have a "Yoga" mat on my bench so that I do not mark the surface of larger pieces when sanding and working on them etc.

Got to Panama City Beach Florida a week ago tomorrow, will be here until end of March. Here is my new workshop, nice to be able to saw outside, today’s temperature is 78. I always bring my scroll saw with me, not much of a beach goers. Played golf and scroll saw that is a perfect winter for me.

I have one fromm Manards it works great

Black lacquer after a 600 grit sanding and priming.

@Dak0ta52 Yes, I made the patterns and the cut. Thank you so much!

great job, love the airbrushing

terrific job

awesome job

very nice job

Enjoy Florida, I dream of such things but not to often. Right now at 7:00A.M. in Nipawin , Saskatchewan Canada there is lots of snow, -20 as I wait for the sun to rise in 2 hours from now. my truck is outside, plugged in as there is no room in the heated garage. Nice thing about winter here is no grass to cut, or plants to water things that disupt a person's scroll sawing

I have used spray equipment, including an air brush, spraying lacquer. Years ago, I tried the rattle can like the one that is shown in the original post. I can get them for less than $4 but I expect that price to go up nowadays. I am spraying many, many small items and find this to be the best way for me.

I didn't lose anyone yet. My dogs are still younger. I Just saw it, and figured I know enough people hat have lost one, that someone may want one. I already have to cut 2 more of them.. I have a list of stuff to cut already to keep me busy through Feb at least is my guess.

Good for you Kev, if want to thump chests, I also have done a 5 year apprenticeship in cabinet making, which included wood finishes and upholstery etc. I have also trained apprentices etc. You are being a little ridiculous stating that all those little pieces require two coats etc. As you would then have to cut them thick enough to ensure that they will fit back after coating them. As I said I would never do an oil finish without a film coat over the top as I do not recognise a plain oil finish as hands friendly and offering enough protection. If you are happy with it, so be it. You state your opinions often enough, so that was mine.

That is so beautiful. I love the air brushed colors at the back. You did a n excellent job. Marg

Beautiful. Love the resin idea. Marg

Well done Michael. I love the hippos. Marg

Not sure if you did the pattern but both the pattern and the cutting are great.

Very nice as always, Frank. I'd have to use a pint of glue putting pieces back together if I did something like that. As far as the frame, you have already commented that you've made arrangements with the client. My opinion is that it would look good with the framing like on the wolf Dave posted. Just my opinion.

Really nice. Looks like you already have the air brush down pretty good.

I think it turned out great. I've often thought of filling cuts with epoxy but haven't tried it yet. Glad to know it will work.

Looks very nice like it.

Truly great cutting. Although I do cut lettering, it is my least favourite

Frank, How did you handle the weight of the piece when it was overhanging the table? How did you orient the piece to avoid that?

Hello every body When she saw a flower of life on my desk a friend said: I love it! can you make one for me? I thought a tree of life, a classic. I show you my latest job and wainting for your advice. It was a very good exercise for practice. It is diameter 7.08 inches

IMHO the frame should be small and simple 3/4 to 1 inch wide, black, with a sheen to match the piece framed (flat, semi-gloss, or gloss).

Put a sub floor in shop last spring, found a deal on a pellet stove,bring on the cold! North west Indiana. It keeps the neighbors from being noisy out side with their mowers. Enjoy your Florida time.

My theory on frames is that your eye should go to the portrait and not the frame. Therefore, I would use a simple frame and a narrow matt to further set the portrait off, something like Dave did there with the wolf.

I agree 100% but also this is dependent on the project at hand too.. I can't see trying to apply several coats of finish to a puzzle or Christmas ornaments that have a lot of detailed fret cutouts.. where you cannot really "sand inside the fret cutouts" to do a "proper" multi coat finishing.. This is 100% why I refuse to use topcoats on fretwork pieces.. Trying to finish puzzle pieces with a top coat is pointless and would be a royal pain to do "all" the edges of each piece.. Those projects in order to keep production flowing smoothly need that quick finish.. Now if you're talking bandsaw boxes, signs etc. where you're working with flat smooth surfaces then yes a nice lacquer finish done properly enhances the piece drastically over just a quick dip in oil and send it out.. I do the better finishing when it's practical.. That said, for me.. I mostly make and sell ornaments, puzzles and desk clocks in which is mostly fretwork. To me a top coat on anything fretwork looks terrible if it has cutouts with the different grain patterns ( ie end grain and face grain ) as end, edge grains soak up a lot of top coat.. in doing the spraying it's almost impossible to get "good " coverage on all edges without getting it all over the face surface as well.. so you get a nice looking face surface but then looking closely the cutouts are lacking good coverage. Just an example as to why I prefer Danish oils.. because they do enhance the wood grain on all surfaces.. quick and easy but still produces a nice finished product that doesn't bottleneck production. Like I said.. larger flat surfaces.. top coating would be better than just a quick dipping and sending it.

Really nice work! Thanks for sharing it!

Present for my wife, not yet completed. 12 X 12", papercut pattern cut with a scrollsaw on a 2 stack 1/8" BB. Deciding on the color for the backer and frame.

I can even do the back of my fretwork on mine. It has an old piece of a non slip pad on it.

Beautiful gift Wayne!

Since it's happening to two different blades and completely different brands I'll go out on a limb and say it's not the blade.. Saw set up might be the same etc. But is the blade tension slipping / flexing? during the stroke? Are you pushing straight into the blade or off to the side a bit? Heat kills these blades... a slight side pressure will create heat.. pushing too hard feeding the blade creates heat. I find it real easy to either push too hard or sometimes onto the side of the blade when cutting out the rounded outer profile of an ornament, patients is key when doing those long cuts. I used to have a lot of troubles with this until I found the Pegas MGT blades.. they bite right through fast enough on those longer cuts I don't tend to push like I did with other blades..

Need a little more information. Type of wood and how thick. Stacking I stack cut 2 each 1/4" hardwood using Pegas #1R MGT blades and one blade will cut intricate ornaments with no problem.