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Started my inventory for next year, pattern from Steve Good

Been working slowly but steadily on my cutting skills. My new Delta came in and it makes a world of difference in both quality of cuts and quantity when the blades are pinless. Here are a couple new projects that I have been working The first photo show some Tiny cars and small animals. The second has a couple of cars that based on the Aeroflow designs of the 30s and 40's More to come..... and thanks for letting me show off my improving talents (I hope)

Graham Greene and Kevin Costner as Kicking Bird and John Dunbar from Dances With Wolves. One of my favorite movies and one of the most beautiful scenic movies I've seen. Can't believe it's almost 32 years old. 1/2" Red Oak with a light stain, about 9" by 11" cut with FDUR#1. Not my pattern, I bought it on Etsy.

I think I am Well into using Acrylic Paints on my Projects lately. Was Only a thought to only add A Color with mostly the wood showing. Anyway here is a Couple Wishing Wells. And As Usual.... Pros and Cons Always Great to read.... Danny :+}

New segmentation project. Pattern by Worthington House

Not familiar with the settings in Inkscape, but check at the print dialog box for something like "print actual" or "fit to page". I know that causes a lot of grief on PDF printing. Could be something similar.

My first cutting of 2022 - Coral reef fish, set of 4 projects. 4 layers 1/8 inches (3+background), project size 7x7 inches Video of making project Coral reef fish patterns

Sure wouldn't bother me cutting the legs off if I wasn't happy with it. Being it is a three legged stand if one leg is a touch short it won't make any difference.

Patterns from Sheila Landry, it was nice to be able to cut sitting outside in the sun.

Have you tried finger cots, the little rubber thingees that fit on the end of your fingers? They also do a great job of holding things. Tom

Hello my name is Harry Moon, but everyone calls me Pop Moon. I used to be real active in scrolling, intarsia and Pyrography but stopped about 8 yrs ago when we moved because of no space. We have moved again and I’m wanting to get back to making saw dust once again. Have been looking for wood supplies but have had a hard time finding sources. I used to buy a lot from Sloans but I think they must have closed. So one of my first questions is where is a good source for thin lumber, intarsia wood and 2”x2” x 2’ or 3’ looking forward to meeting some new friends and sharing a little saw dust with. Pop

After roughly a year of being only to use the meme’s to respond to posts, I am finally once again able to respond via typing. Apparently, if one doesn’t do updates on his iPad, he won’t be able to interact with others. I thought for sure I would have to buy a new iPad, but I had someone do a force update and it worked! And it only cost me $40.00.

I took a short break from the normal picture type projects and completed this at the request of my niece. This is a Steve Good pattern. I was wanting cedar planks but the only thing Lowe's had at the time was pine. They were very rough cut so I sanded them to knock off the rough edges and saturated them with Thompson water seal. The letters are cut with Pegas #3 MGT from 3/4 pine ply since they were going to be painted. The bell topper is cut from 3/4 pine and painted also. I also cut the bell topper with the #3 Pegas MGT. The Valentines topper is a Steve Good pattern I modified. It is cut from 1/4 pine ply using Pegas #1 MGT. To switch out the toppers, I placed a rare earth magnet in the top of the picket and attached a 1 X 1 metal plate on the back of each topper. I also have a gnome for New Years but it is drying after gluing. I have patterns for most other American holidays that should also work as toppers. Hope you like!

Looking at their website, both scrollsaws are "Out of Stock". That has been the case every time I have looked which has been infrequently. Does anyone know if they are still making/selling them?

I created two 4" circles in Inkscape. One had a stroke width of 0.5 pts and the other 12.000 pts. After creating the circles and stroke widths I had to resize the circles to 4". Then I printed them out and both measure 4". The Z value at the bottom right of the page does the same thing as using the + and - keys. It should not affect the printed size. To verify this, I printed one page at 99% and another page at 24% and both circles measure 4".

Good topic and good discussion. Maybe this will inspire me to try my hand at Inkscape again. So far I have not designed enough patterns to really get into it. The few patterns I have designed I did in PowerPoint and they most certainly did NOT print to scale! That led to a lot of frustration and fiddling with printer controls.

Hi Ray Check this out and see if it will do anything for you hope it plays Fab4

I save mine as a PDF and print from that. Maybe this will help you ?

I don't have inkscape in front of me, but I know that when programming a cnc the measurement of a line (kerf) can be made from the inside, outside or center of the line. Try making the line of your object very thin, resize your object, and print. See if that gets you closer to the size you want. This is assuming your object is a line and not a fill.

Yep, me too. and the small lights on the sides as well. I've been tempted to slip down to H.F. buy the magnifying light and try it out, but so far the head band magnifier has been working good for me.

beautiful job on this fret project. It is outstanding Dick heppnerguy

I often cut things becasue they appeal to someone else or I would not have wanted to bother with them. then, sometimes something is a little different and catches my eye and I just have to cut it for no particular reason. Everyone has their own tastes and some like puzzles and toys. I have done both and am finding out that the toys, which I really do not like much myself, happen to turn out to be some of the items I enjoy most to make and the receivers seem to like them a lot, even if I am not too crazy about them myself. Dick heppnerguy

Oh that came out really nicely. I really like the contrast in the backer board. good workmanship all the way around Dick heppnerguy

fun gifts to make and to give. They obviously have kept you quite busy lately. Christmas is over but birthdays start rolling around quickly now. Keep up the fun projects. Dick heppnerguy

I love the stool. I didn't buy the back because I didn't like the negative comments so many people have about it. I'm about 195 and 5 ' 10" and the height works great for me on both saws.

Wow Ray looking at your picture I would have guess that you are 5 ‘ 8” and about 160 lbs, RJ

We are having a garage built and within a week of us trying to make a decision on some things the price of materials jumped 10%. Good news is our house has almost doubled in value due to the housing market.

I've never cared for the magnifiers that attach to the saw, bench, or other, but do use magnification when scrolling small things. I use a 3X or 5X magnifier that is attached to a head band, so it is in line with and moves with my eyes and head. I have several versions now. My lights are LED gooseneck and mounted on both sides of the upper arm of my DeWalt Scroll Saw. I position each high enough not to interfere with my hand movements, and slightly forward of the blade, aimed down at roughly 45 deg. so there are no significant shadows around the blade and cutting point to distract me from cutting where I want to. Blade shadows or flickering shadows from the upper blade grip getting in the way of the light can really affect how well your eyes see the cutting point. Eliminating these shadows makes for much higher cutting accuracy and less eye strain. If you cut for hours at a time, like I do, you won't be near as tired at the end of a long cutting session. Charley

Barbara, if your machine is your place of peace, then you are definitely doing it right! I feel the same way.

And a Big Thank You to All. Frank.... I just see a Project and say well I have cut a lot of Portraits and Occasional things that This would make a Good Change. Like cutting Little wooden cars/trucks etc. The Wishing Wells I have thought about donating to Some Thing. Anyway.... I Really did Enjoy cutting And Painting these crafts.......Upward and Onward.... Next Project. Danny :+}

Nice work, Barbara! As far as cutting hardwood goes, the only difference is the speed of the cut and the number of blade changes (due to dulling). I cut the pictured piece out of Jatoba wood (called Brazilian cherry in the US). It is extremely hard and dense (and isn't even remotely related to cherry). Jatoba makes hickory seem soft by comparison.

Sun ? I wish we had sun I make tons of these, they seem quite popular over here. I just do 'Names' though as we don't have 'States' !

Very nice, I love the coloured lights behind the creeper.

beautiful work

Pattern by Brenda's Wood Creations purchased through the Wooden Teddy Bear. 3/4" oak.

I noticed that the reindeer pattern on woodgear.ca does not have the dotted lines to help line up the pattern. Has anyone modified the pattern with dotted lines?

Welcome to the Village from sunny Doncaster. This is a great place to be, lots of lovely knowledgeable, friendly people... I've just seen your youtube channel video with the Giraffe. I love doing 'animals' too, here's my Gorilla.

I didn't really complete the pattern as in this case I didn't clean up the wheels / spokes and also didn't make bridges for where to stop cutting on the wheel profile and the riders head. I don't normally share my patterns because I almost never make a completed pattern. I knew what I wanted to do with it so I don't take the time to make a cleaned up completed pattern. With that said you're welcome to use it if you can.. or have someone finish cleaning it up to make it a more comprehensive pattern. I should take the time to do this on many of my patterns but I don't because I don't sell them or typically share them.

This is my second from Jim Blume's Americana series and I plan to cut at least one more. Like the first which was a wagon wheel, this is cut from 1/4 Maple ply stained natural with multi coats of spray clear gloss sanded between each coat. The back is 1/4 Pine. The frame is cut from a 1X Pine board that I actually tried out my new router for the first time. The frame is stained with and antique oak. I'm posting two pics. One of the single finished project and another with both I have cut. I feel they complement each other.

Awesome toys to be cherished. Might I suggest you write the date on the bottom of each toy for future reference.

Well, I don't, but our Postal worker does. This pattern was posted on a forum, and I had to make one for our Postal worker. The pattern is by Steve Good listed as "I Deliver". I used 1/2" Hard Maple for the upright and 3/4" Red Oak for the base. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using #1R MGT blades for the interior cuts and #3R MGT blades for the perimeter and veining. The finish is sanding sealer and two coats spray Lacquer Clear Satin with sanding between coats. Comments welcome.

I needed some quick and simple ornaments for an outdoor tree. Something that I didn't have much time invested in if/when they get destroyed by being outside. We finally got our outdoor fireplace finished on our back porch and the wife put a tree next to it. So that's where the ornaments come into play. The Santa's I've seen here on this site a couple of times and thought that I would also make us a set for the outdoor tree. My wife did the painting. Only one of them have the white balls on the hat's in the picture,,, the cats got to the rest of them! LOL The Merry Christmas pieces hanging on the fireplace were cut from a piece of branch from my Sycamore tree, my wife did the lettering on her Cricut.

This one was very challenging as the cuts were so close to each other. I use additional copies of the printed pattern to make rough painting stencils, but it is still not easy getting the colors in the correct locations. I also play with shading of the larger areas to get different colors in different areas without worring where the exact cut lines are. Thanks for the kind words.

Very nice work, I'm sure she will love it. I'm usualy not critical of your work as it is always well done. In this case It is not a critisim of your work but of your choice of using all Script Capitals for the name. It is just my opinion but it does not read well. I think it would have been much better as a Script word "Lisa".

Magnifique travail ! Happy new year to you

Thanks for the many helpful ideas. I have now switched to the new saw (see buying a new saw thread) so we shall see how it goes from here. I have a variety of Olson blades along with FD assortment. However, I am by no means an expert and am still in the experimental stages. PS Wood blades are also on the way. Cut something out on the new saw last weekend with no jumps. This weekend's project is a toy car. We'll see how I do on that. No football, below zero temps, Friday off, new saw, fresh enthusiasm thanks to y'all.... Should be fun! I'm thinking that a notebook to record project, wood type, thickness, blade choice, speed, and results might be a good idea for my feeble mind....

Howdy Mr. Scott, and might I first welcome you to the forum, Sir. In this situation, there are many variables involved. You have been given more than plenty of dandy suggestions to begin with. Might I ask, what breed of saw are you usin', Sir? As mentioned, is there a possible aggression adjustment? If not, and you're not usin' an overly aggressive blade, try backin' off on your feed rate just a little. Maybe. Another suggestion may be to try a couple different types of blades that may suit your style of cuttin', Sir. Might I suggest the Polar blade. The polar blade is a blade made with teeth similar to a skip tooth blade, except the teeth are closer together the full length of the blade. And, depending on the thickness of the material your're attemptin' to cut, the polar blade is an exceptional blade for fine line cutting, fret work, as well as other types of cutting, too. Blade speed has a lot to do with wood jump. In some instances, blade speed is running so fast that it cannot do it's job, and grabs a catch in the kerf, and you have a jump, and sometimes a broken blade. Maybe adjust your blade speed accordingly? I have a number of years at the saw myself, as well as a number of other members here. I learn something from every single project I produce, large or small. I have learned over the years what thickness' work best for me, what blades work best for me, and I keep all those blades on inventory. Imo, it is might near an impossibility to steer folks towards a given type of blade. It is simply a matter of personal choice. There is another strong possibility that may be at question yet, too. You may be"pushing" the material into the blade instead of just allowin' the blade to do the work for you. That is an issue that can be checked when you're cuttin' by simply backin' off pressure on your material against the blade. If the blade straightens up or pushes back towards ya a little, that's tellin' ya you are pushin' instead of lettin' the blade do the work. Be worth a try. Also, make sure your blade tension is set proper, Sir. Sawdust703(brad)

Bill has given you most of the reasons for your issue, except one. I have found that to slow a blade speed will cause your problem. Try speeding up the blade speed. I teach my students to start with a medium speed, then adjust from there.

The wood is probably jumping because the blade is grabbing the wood, instead of cutting it. This happens for a couple reasons. The simplest is a dull blade or blade installed upside down. Barring that, the most common cause is trying to make tight turns too fast. Pushing the wood into the blade, while turning quickly and tightly doesn't allow the blade to cut fast enough and the blade will bind in the wood and the teeth will grab on the upstroke, instead of cut. This can also happen when trying to use too large of a blade. What size & type of blade are you using? What kind of wood are you cutting and how thick is it? Does the lifting happen just in cutting curves or all the time? Many scroll saw blades have reverse teeth in them. This is intended to reduce the tear out on the bottom of the wood. Most reverse tooth blades just have a few teeth pointing up at the bottom. Some have reverse teeth placed through the entire length of the blade. These sometimes cause more trouble with lifting the wood, because there are more reverse teeth engaged at any given time. If the problem persists, you could try a skip tooth blade, which only has teeth that point down. You may sacrifice the slightly cleaner cut that a reverse tooth blade offers, but it should help minimize the lifting. Also, most scrollers remove the hold down bracket on their saw, but if your saw is still equipped with one, make sure it's lowered far enough to help hold the wood down, without being too tight and causing friction between the wood and the table. Good luck. Hope this helps.